Long wire run and switches

[Jacob S]

There is a wire run of about 300 ft. maybe somewhat less with a twin lnbf and it works for a while without a problem then only the odd transponders come in on both 110 and 119 and I swap out the lnbf with a dishpro one and do a check switch and the same result happens. I put on an lnbf for just the 119 slot and connect it up to it and nothing comes in after a check switch test. I swap the receiver with another 301 and the same result on it after the check switch test.

Is it a possibility that because of the long wire run it is burning the wire out causing it to not work whether it is a dish 500 system or not? I had this happen before the dish 500 was put in and had to replace the wire because it went out like that. I seen no breaks in the line. Or could it just be the wire getting stretched or something somewhere?

What is the farthest one can run the line until you cannot get a signal or have some kind of problem? The guy is treed out. I use Dish Network wire, so it is a very good grade of wire. 2200 MHZ. If it works good for a while then should it work good for now on or is it known to go out later on because the wire run is so long? There is no inline amps either. Signal comes in very strong in the 110's.

[xcableguy]

Why not simply add an inline amplifier. I have had no problems with Legacy LNB's up to 200 feet after that an amp is a necessity

[Jacob S]

I do not know if this will solve the problem because it worked fine before without an inline amplifier with a high signal strength, then it goes out? I do not know if this has something to do with the long wire run or not. I know that some of my customers that had used RG-59 and a switch that it would burn the line out to where it would not work anymore. I am wondering if the same thing is happening with a long wire run with or without switches if it is having the same effect.

How far is it technically possible to get a satellite signal to?

[scooper]

A. - using RG59 will not "burn out" the coax. What it DOES do is have more voltage drop off and more drop off of satellite frequency signal compared to RG6. THIS is why RG6 is recommended.

B. Your problems with the long run seem like there might be a weather issue and connectors getting water in them than anything else. I also wouldn't bury the cable without putting it in something like a PVC pipe for the whole distance. If your 300 foot cable is not designed for direct burial, and you have buried it, that could also be causing your problem.

C. You may wish to consider going to RG11 cable - it's even thicker than RG6. If you're using DishPro, make sure the coax is rated to 2200 MHz. Due to the stiffness of the RG11, you may decide to use it only on the long run out to the dish.

Max distance -depends on the quality of the installation. I've read reports from some of the pro installers of easily going 300' with good RG6, so that shouldn't be an issue.

[Mike500]

It appears to be a switching problem. You might want to use a solid copper cable with solid copper braid. The problem appears not to be the signal, but a voltage drop from the long cable run. I know that Monster Cable makes this. Also, are your connectors and grounding blocks rated for 2200 Mhz and above?

[Mike500]

Other options might be to use a higher quality 90% coax like Times Fiber "lifetime." Although it does not have a solid copper center, it has a 90% shield, which conducts electricity a lot better than than the usual 60%. This cable has a floodant that protects itself from corrosion in the shield and around the center conductor. I do not recommend burying the cable in a closed conduit. If there is any physical slope in the cable run, the conduit will fill up with water, not particularly from entry, but from thermal sweating. I have had this happen from more than one installation that has been, what i believed, was completely sealed. If the conduit is sloped, I'd put a drainage screen at the lowest physical point. Unless there is a long run, needing future replacement, I prefer direct burial cable. In your case, Jacob S, I'd go with conduit, but open on the lower end for water buildup to pass.

You should be using DishPro approved connectors like Snap-N-Seal ones, shown here;

http://members.aol.com/mhz500/snskit.jpg

Also, use a much higher quality grounding block designed for 2200 Mhz or better. They are identified by the blue center of the socket for the center conductor. They look like this;

http://members.aol.com/mhz500/hfgb1.jpg


Email me, if you have trouble getting items like these.

[Mike500]

Originally posted by Jacob S

Is it a possibility that because of the long wire run it is burning the wire out causing it to not work whether it is a dish 500 system or not? I had this happen before the dish 500 was put in and had to replace the wire because it went out like that. I seen no breaks in the line. Or could it just be the wire getting stretched or something somewhere?


It is more likely that the connectors are corroded. Stretching would be more of a problem, if the coax has a solid copper center conductor.

[Jacob S]

I do not bury long cable runs because of there being more of a liklihood of a problem. It is either ran in the air or on the ground out of the way of things. I use 2200 MHZ Dish Network wire. I have no problem with the signal for a while then I lose it or a problem happens. If I get a good signal in the first place then there should be no reason for the wire to fail later on is there if there has been no stretching of the wire or no corrosion in the wire ends? I would not have to use the 2200 MHZ ground block would I if I use a legacy twin LNBF?

[apc1]

I agree, you have a voltage drop. Your RG-6 can't handle the 18 volts for that long of a run. Hence the problem where you only receive the odds. Get yourself some RG11 flooded cable with some good outdoor connectors. RG11 will handle the voltage better and should better accomodate the length. Also, if your cable is laying above ground, bury it. I can't imagine this being a proper install if it's run across the ground. If you want to test to make sure before you go further, take a voltmeter and test your voltage at the dish to see if your dropping out. Then make your determination from there.

[Mike500]

Likewise,

I do not believe in leaving the cable laying on top of the ground. Even three inches deep in pvc conduit is better that that. On top of the ground causes damage, including change in impedance and degradation of the shield wires. I'd use the pvc only for mechanical protection, not for weather proofing. And, yes, there is resistance in a standard grounding block. The 3 Ghz block is less likely to cause a voltage drop. RG6 would work, but only with careful selection, preparation and maintenance. I'd also fill the connections with 100% pure non hardening silicone to prevent corrosion at the connectors. In a long run situation, you must use the best cable, the best connectors, the best preparation and the best maintenance. To do otherwise will men temporary and marginal performance and reliability.

As a high end professional installer, I get almost no service call backs on my workmanship, choice of materials and implementation.