Bruister new QC guidelines

[Teronzhul]

Bruister techs and contractors have been sent a 12 page pdf entailing all of their newest/current QC guidelines. Much of it is the same as the old, but some is mind boggling. Here is the first section from the first page.

QC fails if any of the following criteria are not met
Wall Mounting - Wood
· Attachment of the base of the mount using six lag screws
o No Eave Mounts
· Two center holes fastened directly into a stud
o No Bird Boxes



So we can't do Eave mounts any more. Only roof mounts (through shingles) and wall mounts are allowed.

Another fav

· A minimum of 150lbs. of concrete must be used on every pole mount for KAKU and
International ODU
· A minimum of 80lbs. of concrete must be used on every pole mount for 18” & Triple sat ODU.
· The ground pole must extend at least 30” into the concrete pier.


Yeah, a standard 1 5/8" fence post is 66" long, and they want it 30" down in the ground. Thats reasonable...:nono2: The concrete requirements are also... excessive, but they've been that way for a while.

[Incompetent]

LOL are they going to dig it up and weigh the concrete on the QC?

[toober]

We were told that any pole mount that was suspect would be dug up and weighed. Plus, it would be the tech's responsibility to come back and put the pole back.

[TigersFanJJ]

So we can't do Eave mounts any more. Only roof mounts (through shingles) and wall mounts are allowed.

90% of the customers I come across don't want it roof or wall mounted so I've decided I'm going to start pole mounting every job that I can.


Yeah, a standard 1 5/8" fence post is 66" long, and they want it 30" down in the ground. Thats reasonable...:nono2: The concrete requirements are also... excessive, but they've been that way for a while.

The poles that they supply for the slimline are even shorter than that. Service calls are going to be a nightmare with people accidentally bump the low mounted dish while trying to mow their lawn. :nono2:

[toober]

90% of the customers I come across don't want it roof or wall mounted so I've decided I'm going to start pole mounting every job that I can.




The poles that they supply for the slimline are even shorter than that. Service calls are going to be a nightmare with people accidentally bump the low mounted dish while trying to mow their lawn. :nono2:

We were also sent a memo not long ago that pole mounts are a last resort. Any install that a pole is used on, if there is LOS from the roof or wall, will fail a QC.

[TigersFanJJ]

We were also sent a memo not long ago that pole mounts are a last resort. Any install that a pole is used on, if there is LOS from the roof or wall, will fail a QC.

Did they give a reason behind that?

Our area has always been a "roof mount as a last resort" area. They even went as far as printing up roof mount waivers that the customer has to sign releasing us from any liability before we can mount it there.

[toober]

We were told it was due to the cost of poles and concrete. We mount to a wall first, then roof, then pole as a last resort. Doesn't matter to me, they sign my check, I do it their way.

[TigersFanJJ]

We were told it was due to the cost of poles and concrete. We mount to a wall first, then roof, then pole as a last resort. Doesn't matter to me, they sign my check, I do it their way.

Oh, I see now. We have to pay for our own poles and concrete (subs), except for the slimline poles.

It's still BS to fail a QC for that reason, though.

[toober]

This is also the same company that gave us all new compression tools, cable prep tools, weather boots, and new connectors to fight the problem of moisture. Then, after spending countless thousands of dollars on the change, says (and this is an exact quote) "You didn't know we work in the rain?"

[RobertE]

And this is a perfect example of the HSP fire drill that is going on.

Our preferences are Roof 1st, wall 2nd, pole 3rd. Actually, wall & pole are really tied for 2nd. Why? People are raising hell about the 10 lag bolt holes in their siding.

I've seen some pics of sides of houses where it looks like it was shot with 00 buckshot. Especially after the dish has to get moved because they couldn't find a stud.

Someone somewhere needs to step up to the plate and lay down some practical & reasonable guidelines as what can be installed where. This person(s) should be some suit & tie in an office somewhere either.

[RobertE]

This is also the same company that gave us all new compression tools, cable prep tools, weather boots, and new connectors to fight the problem of moisture. Then, after spending countless thousands of dollars on the change, says (and this is an exact quote) "You didn't know we work in the rain?"

We're going through the same thing. Who would have ever suspected that when its pouring down rain, you'll get water in the fittings? :confused: :nono2:

Still don't know why we don't use the dielectric grease in the fitting to keep out the water. I take that back, I do know. A tube of it costs more than a bag of those rubber weather seals that will fall apart in two years. :rolleyes:

[joe diamond]

IF you are an employee you do what you are told or quit. Negotiate more money if you can.

IF you are a contractor YOU are responsible for results, are paid in a piece work manner for completions only and are responsible for the technique used.

The cost of following specifications is subject to competitive bidding.

What are "QC Guidelines?" What if you decide, for example, that mounting a dish on a wall will cause damage to the structure? Are you free to mount on a tress end? When the dish pulls out of the sheathing and the customer sees six holes in his crushed siding and you followed the guidelines....who fixes it?

Joe