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CJTE
06-07-08, 03:07 PM
So... I called Ironwood yesterday because i'm still seeing pixelization on the 119.

The tech came out today, replaced my 2 WB68's (including power passing splitters), and is now replacing my LNB assembly. He noted that it was a CalAmp, but didnt say what he was putting up.

Too bad im broke, or I'd tip him!

CJTE
06-07-08, 03:32 PM
We discovered the problem!
As I signed the techs paperwork, he asked me if I wanted a couple extra power passing splitters, and I said sure.

Well, turns out he only had 3, so, we went to pull one off my old switch setup, and upon doing that we found that one of the splitters had expanded where the OUT ports were, and it was bent out. A good pull on each connecter busted them right out and the inside of the splitter was charred. Which explained the WB68's being hot to the touch (a short).

So, 2 new WB68's, 4 new splitters, and a new LNB assembly.
If I get pixellization on my locals im going to shoot something.

Unfortunately He adjusted my dish and dropped my 101 down to the 70's. (I think the switches need time to warm up, I checked it again and it was in the mid 90's. then it dropped back to the mid 80's...).
We'll see.

jal
06-07-08, 03:37 PM
They really should have replaced that mess with one wb616.

RobertE
06-07-08, 03:53 PM
They really should have reeplaced that mess with one wb616.

Agreed. To bad it takes nearly an act of <deity of your choice here> to get one out of the HSP system.

It makes for a much, much cleaner installation and removes a whole lot of potential points of failure.

Just another example of the penny pinching of the HSPs actually costing money. Idiots.

CJTE
06-07-08, 04:07 PM
haha, you know what sucks?

Ive got 3 SAM-4803's, a WB68, and a WB616 sitting behind me. 2 of the SAM-4803s, the WB68, and the WB616 haven't been used (aside of testing).


However, there currently isn't any good way of getting power up there for a powered switch.
And, since I'll probably have cable by the end of the month... I'm not gonna push it too much.

ironwood
06-07-08, 05:44 PM
We discovered the problem!
As I signed the techs paperwork, he asked me if I wanted a couple extra power passing splitters, and I said sure.

Well, turns out he only had 3, so, we went to pull one off my old switch setup, and upon doing that we found that one of the splitters had expanded where the OUT ports were, and it was bent out. A good pull on each connecter busted them right out and the inside of the splitter was charred. Which explained the WB68's being hot to the touch (a short).

So, 2 new WB68's, 4 new splitters, and a new LNB assembly.
If I get pixellization on my locals im going to shoot something.

Unfortunately He adjusted my dish and dropped my 101 down to the 70's. (I think the switches need time to warm up, I checked it again and it was in the mid 90's. then it dropped back to the mid 80's...).
We'll see.


How do you drop 101 from 90 to 70? You must have zero on 103. It seems like your dish moves with the wind. And moves bad.

CJTE
06-07-08, 06:10 PM
... Well if the tech goes out and adjusts the dish when he installs the new LNB assembly... Hey, that might do it!

My HR20 currently reports on the 101 in the low 90's with a few spikes, and the numbers change by a few degrees.
It reports mid 70's to low 80's on 103(C), and 119 is mid 80's, and I like it there.

I checked my R15 as the guy was climbing down from the ladder, which is when I get the low 70's on the 101. Now that some power has gotten through the switches and they've "warmed up", I think things are fine.

FWIW, Out here we get our (2) HD Locals from the 99(S)
97 0 97 0 95 45 N/A N/A

K4SMX
06-07-08, 10:33 PM
haha, you know what sucks?

Ive got 3 SAM-4803's, a WB68, and a WB616 sitting behind me. 2 of the SAM-4803s, the WB68, and the WB616 haven't been used (aside of testing).


However, there currently isn't any good way of getting power up there for a powered switch.
And, since I'll probably have cable by the end of the month... I'm not gonna push it too much.
You're not one of those guys with your coax running into the attic instead of down to an exterior grounding block are you? :rolleyes:

CJTE
06-07-08, 10:42 PM
You're not one of those guys with your coax running into the attic instead of down to an exterior grounding block are you? :rolleyes:

Uhhhhm... YUP :D

My coax goes from the dish, 8ft to the left, where it pushes into my crawlspace. From there it goes to my 4 splitters, then 2 WB68's. Then out to my Receivers.


And once again, at this point, I'll have cable at the end of the month so... I mean, I know we have some neat thunderstorms, I'll let it roll.

And even so if I DID have it running to a grounding block, then it would go back into the attic. Not interested in the switches sitting on the side of my house.

K4SMX
06-08-08, 12:00 AM
.....And even so if I DID have it running to a grounding block, then it would go back into the attic. Not interested in the switches sitting on the side of my house.
That's where the WB616 goes after you decide that cable was a bad idea.....:)

CJTE
06-08-08, 07:06 AM
That's where the WB616 goes after you decide that cable was a bad idea.....:)

Haha. Yea, you prolly wont see a bitch and rant thread from me. DirecTV has simply outgrown my paycheck, and for what I watch, its not worth it. Cox Cable gives me USA, TNT, Comedy Central, my locals (including the county channels that DirecTV cant carry), and bad ass internet to boot.

I like DirecTV alot, I know it pretty well. But I just cant afford it right now when I could drop my $45 DSL bill, and pay $20 less to my TV provider for TV/Internet.
:eek2:

K4SMX
06-08-08, 08:00 AM
NASA speak: "Roger that!"