Opinions on 2 types of slimline mounts

[VOLBEAT]

This may seem a little ridiculous to ask, but I'm going to get my slimline off my roof permanently, because I'm going to be putting a new roof on, and don't want to mount it on a brand new roof, and will use either this one
http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display8.asp?PROD=DTVUEM&xzoom=Large#xview
or this one
http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=KAUEM1

Anyone know any reason why one is better than the other? I like the idea of the second one because it is just less pole to stabilize, but maybe someone knows something I don't. Thanks in advance for any opinions or advice, or even a better idea!

[armophob]

The first one is basically what I made from 2 standard poles. But the stability will need some work on either model. once adjusted you may want to find some heavier material to brace it from left-right sway.

[RobertE]

For the second one, you'll obviously need exposed rafter tails.

If you have a good line of sight from ground level, I'd just go with a standard pole mount and have it off the house totally.

[kevinm34232]

I've used something similar to the first one on houses with tile roofs and block walls. It requires drilling a lot of 1/2" holes in the side of the house though, and using lead sleeves for the lag bolts. But it is pretty solid when done.

[VOLBEAT]

The first one is basically what I made from 2 standard poles. But the stability will need some work on either model. once adjusted you may want to find some heavier material to brace it from left-right sway.
If I go with the second one, I plan on using monopoles to the fascia to stabilize it.

[VOLBEAT]

For the second one, you'll obviously need exposed rafter tails.

If you have a good line of sight from ground level, I'd just go with a standard pole mount and have it off the house totally.

Yes, I have exposed rafter tails, and a perfect location with good line of sight. I could never make it work from ground level though.

[VOLBEAT]

I've used something similar to the first one on houses with tile roofs and block walls. It requires drilling a lot of 1/2" holes in the side of the house though, and using lead sleeves for the lag bolts. But it is pretty solid when done.

What bugs me about that one is the asthetics, and it seems like it would take more to stabilize it.

[armophob]

I had a nice installer leave me a second pole to make mine after he did a shaky install on the fascia. I agreed to not call in a second call for alignment that would hurt his profits. Here (http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=82853) is what I did in the second post.

[VOLBEAT]

I had a nice installer leave me a second pole to make mine after he did a shaky install on the fascia. I agreed to not call in a second call for alignment that would hurt his profits. Here (http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?t=82853) is what I did in the second post.

That's a pretty good idea......you just made an extension of the original mount. I'll probably end up going with the second one in my original post.........it's so simple, yet effective. I just have to make sure a right angle drill will fit down in my gutter, so I can drill holes through the back of it for the monpole mounts, otherwise I'll use the first one

[ironwood]

Buy a long-long pole attach one end to the ground and another end to the rafter or facia. Done.

[raoul5788]

The second one scares me. Most people would attach it to the lookouts, which aren't very strong. You can get at most two lag screws into the rafter tails. That's no where near stable enough. I don't like it. Putting the pole in the ground and attaching it to the rafter tails, or the fascia if necessary is a much better idea.

[wmj5]

I don't know what anybody would want a dish on top of the house if you have a clear shot at the satellite, it don't make any sence, dig a hole and drill two or more holes in the end that goes in the ground, put a bolt in each hole stecking out on both sides so it can't move from left to right after you put the cement in it, and if anything goes wrong you don't have to climb on top of the house.

[Tiger62]

I don't know what anybody would want a dish on top of the house if you have a clear shot at the satellite, it don't make any sence, dig a hole and drill two or more holes in the end that goes in the ground, put a bolt in each hole stecking out on both sides so it can't move from left to right after you put the cement in it, and if anything goes wrong you don't have to climb on top of the house.

If your only choice for a pole-mount is in a front or side yard, I'd definitely vote for a roof/eave install on the back of the house. But that's just me.

[MikeekiM]

Either of these scare me a bit... Mine is mounted right on the roof and has two stabilizing poles/arms that creates a solid tri-pod mount... The thing won't move and is extremely solid... I am not worked about any sort of aim drift at all... And I don't worry about strong winds... I wonder how strong those rafter tails are...

I like wmj5's comment, and never considered that I could mount the dish on the ground... It's really obvious that I could have done so...but for some reason, I never even questioned whether it should be on the roof or not...

[VOLBEAT]

If your only choice for a pole-mount is in a front or side yard, I'd definitely vote for a roof/eave install on the back of the house. But that's just me.

Yes, me too. A pole going up past my roofline would be ugly as hell in my back yard. There is just no ideal place to do this at my house. I'm NOT doing it my front yard, that's for sure. Also, going on the roof isn't going to happen, it has to come off the roof so I can put a new roof on, and it's not going back up there.

[VOLBEAT]

Either of these scare me a bit... Mine is mounted right on the roof and has two stabilizing poles/arms that creates a solid tri-pod mount... The thing won't move and is extremely solid... I am not worked about any sort of aim drift at all... And I don't worry about strong winds... I wonder how strong those rafter tails are...

I like wmj5's comment, and never considered that I could mount the dish on the ground... It's really obvious that I could have done so...but for some reason, I never even questioned whether it should be on the roof or not...

Mine has been absolutely fine on the roof, and for a long time. I just need to move it to do a roof. I don't like his comment because going on the roof is no big deal, unless a person makes a big deal of it. Sticking a big pole next to my house long enough to get good LOS isn't an option, and isn't going to happen. The rafter tails are part of the truss. I asked opinions on the 2 mounts I posted links to in my original post

[BattleZone]

We've installed hundreds of under-eave mounts with no problem, but the key is that you MUST be able to use monopoles to secure the mount on each side. You also need to pre-drill the holes with a 3/16" bit to prevent the rafter tails from splitting, and use 5/16" lag bolts (1/2" head). Ideally, we like to be able to screw the support poles into the ends of the rafter tails (usually from/through the INSIDE of the gutter) or to the fascia board (on or as close to the rafter tails as possible). And the monopoles need to attach to the undereave mount as high as possible. Some separation between the two rings is also good.

Done right, it is very secure, but it isn't easy work if the overhang is large, because you have to lean back quite far on your ladder. Be careful!

[VOLBEAT]

We've installed hundreds of under-eave mounts with no problem, but the key is that you MUST be able to use monopoles to secure the mount on each side. You also need to pre-drill the holes with a 3/16" bit to prevent the rafter tails from splitting, and use 5/16" lag bolts (1/2" head). Ideally, we like to be able to screw the support poles into the ends of the rafter tails (usually from/through the INSIDE of the gutter) or to the fascia board (on or as close to the rafter tails as possible). And the monopoles need to attach to the undereave mount as high as possible. Some separation between the two rings is also good.

Done right, it is very secure, but it isn't easy work if the overhang is large, because you have to lean back quite far on your ladder. Be careful!

Thanks! If I use the second choice( the U shaped one), I planned on predrilling the holes because the rafter tail is only a 2x4..........now that I think of it, I hope it will work o.k. on a 2x4, but anyway, I would predrill the holes, and I plan to use monopoles to the fascia. The only problem with that is drilling the holes for the bolts through the backside of the gutter. Doesn't look like even a right angle drill will get in there, so that would be interesting. How do you do that when you come across that? Oh yeah, I only have 2 foot eaves and it's about 9 feet off the ground, so I can do it from a stepladder, and I'm a painting contractor, so very used to ladders, but thanks for the warning. :)

I want to put it here
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1476.jpg

and plan on mounting it with monopoles like this
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/51e3_3.jpg

[VOLBEAT]

The second one scares me. Most people would attach it to the lookouts, which aren't very strong. You can get at most two lag screws into the rafter tails.

No offense, but your post is a little confusing.........the second one wouldn't mount on a lookout.......it's impossible, and you can put 4 lag screws in that mounting plate.......through each of the 4 holes. Just wondering where you got 2 at most from. Maybe you confused it with the first one.

[avmaster]

The second one scares me. Most people would attach it to the lookouts, which aren't very strong. You can get at most two lag screws into the rafter tails. That's no where near stable enough. I don't like it. Putting the pole in the ground and attaching it to the rafter tails, or the fascia if necessary is a much better idea.


Actually they use 6 lags, they are VERY strong. There is room for all 6 with room to spare, figure a rafter tail is going to be a the least a 2 x 4, that plate is only about 2.5" x 6. they almost don't need monopoles, but I always use them, its the same diameter pipe as the standard Ka/Ku mast so the same monopoles work, so basically its a very sturdy mount with 3 points of contact.

I don't like that first one at all though, that would NOT pass around here at least. They dont allow us to mount masts to any external wall like a stucco wall, even if its lagged into a stud on the corner.

[VOLBEAT]

Actually they use 6 lags, they are VERY strong. There is room for all 6 with room to spare, figure a rafter tail is going to be a the least a 2 x 4, that plate is only about 2.5" x 6. they almost don't need monopoles, but I always use them, its the same diameter pipe as the standard Ka/Ku mast so the same monopoles work, so basically its a very sturdy mount with 3 points of contact.

I don't like that first one at all though, that would NOT pass around here at least. They dont allow us to mount masts to any external wall like a stucco wall, even if its lagged into a stud on the corner.

That was my concern........whether or not that plate would work on a 2x4........so thanks! The one thing I was wondering is if the side of the rafter tail a person chooses to mount this thing on isn't plumb(which is almost guaranteed), what tricks do you have for making it plumb? I was thinking of somehow shimming the plate with something......maybe fender washers under the plate or???

[avmaster]

That was my concern........whether or not that plate would work on a 2x4........so thanks! The one thing I was wondering is if the side of the rafter tail a person chooses to mount this thing on isn't plumb(which is almost guaranteed), what tricks do you have for making it plumb? I was thinking of somehow shimming the plate with something......maybe fender washers under the plate or???

side to side they are usually a little bit off, but I just compensate by adjusting the skew or elevation a little bit, of course I have a bird dog so that makes it really easy, I could mount a slimline on a 45 degree pole and have it tuned in withing 2 min. I suppose you could use some washers if you wanted to.

[VOLBEAT]

side to side they are usually a little bit off, but I just compensate by adjusting the skew or elevation a little bit, of course I have a bird dog so that makes it really easy, I could mount a slimline on a 45 degree pole and have it tuned in withing 2 min. I suppose you could use some washers if you wanted to.

Yeah, I just figured it's best to have it perfectly plumb both directions, but I see what your saying. I'll probably have *D* come out and aim it after I move it, as I don't have a meter. Not sure if trying aim a slimline is worth it the old fashioned "primitive" way(yelling at your wife inside the house from outside:D ). At least now you can use a cell phone lol.

[avmaster]

Yeah, I just figured it's best to have it perfectly plumb both directions, but I see what your saying. I'll probably have *D* come out and aim it after I move it, as I don't have a meter. Not sure if trying aim a slimline is worth it the old fashioned "primitive" way(yelling at your wife inside the house from outside:D ). At least now you can use a cell phone lol.

Well, if you do tune it yourself, here is a hint. PEAK the 101, get it to the highest possible percentage, hopefully 95 or so. Lock it down, and then adjust the skew(side to side angle) of the dish to peak the 110 and 119. If you have the 101 dialed in good, 9 times out of 10 the 103 is nearly at 100% the 103 is what most of the new HD channels are coming off of these days, the 119 and 110 are not used much. Once you have the 101 its pretty easy.