digicom compression fittings in extreme cold

[David MacLeod]

anyone had experience with digicom fittings in extreme cold?
need to put a 3 foot jumper on my ota for the rotator, I have the following piece http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=DGCBL003
and am wondering how these do in up to -40 weather.
not going to be much movement, just slight angle changes as the ota is turned.
I've never dealt with any of these, they look ok but was wondering.

[BattleZone]

They are used by Comcast here, but I personally don't like them. The nylon compression piece will break easily if the metal band at the end slips off, which it does far too often. The nylon part also comes unlocked too easily. While they tend to have a "premium" reputation because of their high price, in my experience they are just above "junk."

I've used every kind of fitting out there, and IMO, nothing beats the PPC EX6-XL. I have never had one fail on me, and almost never see failures in the field (I've seen a few that were obviously compressed without being fully seated in the tool, so the compression ring was at an angle and didn't fully lock.) The thick brass lock ring on the back locks solidly and compresses the nylon gasket to form a perfect twin 360 seal ring. I don't use anything else anymore if I can help it.

[David MacLeod]

I was looking at some ppc brand on ebay, they were a lot cheaper than the digicoms and I wondered about them. I'll look closer at them, thanks.

[David MacLeod]

are the PPC EX6 (not EX 6L ) an ok fitting? I just bought a 100 for $20 including shipping vs $20 for 50 of the ex 6l ones.
thanks.

[AntAltMike]

Most compression tools are not of the right length for the PPC EX6. With most tools, you'll have to put a couple of the tiny nuts that come with most F-81 barrel splices on the compression tool's anvil/post.

I sometimes use the PPC EX6 when I have to stuff the connections in a single gang electrical box.

If David MacLeod isn't in the installation business, then he will likely never use 50 of those connectors in his lifetime, so the extra fifty PPC-EX6s he cah get for the same price may not be of much use to him.

[easy_e65]

thanks guys. I needed to get a kit, and this thread reminded me of such. Got the crimper, stripper and termination ends ppc ex6.

[David MacLeod]

I figure I'll break 10-15 of them seeing as I've never used them before.
I've got 200 feet of good rg6 that has some broken ends or an insulation tear in the middle, I'm going to make a bunch of 10 foot jumpers so the first 50 will be used pretty quick.

is the L just a designation for length?

[BattleZone]

Here's the story:

The first compression F connectors were made by Thomas & Betts, and sold under the "Snap N Seal" name. These quickly became "the" standard in the cable industry, as they were much better than anything that came before.

PPC invented their own compression connector, the EX6, but their connector was shorter than the SNS connectors. PPC made their own compression tool that worked fine for their EX6, but was too short for other brands, which had started popping up. Most other brands adopted the length of the SNS as the "standard" compression connector length.

Cable companies really liked the PPC EX6 connectors, but refused to pay for their now "proprietary" tool, so they bought other brands instead. PPC reacted by releasing the "EX6-XL" version of their connector, which is the "standard" length and works with nearly all compression tools.

IMO, unless you know exactly what you are buying, you should NOT buy the plain EX6, as they will be difficult to get compressed properly unless you own a tool capable of doing so. Stick with the EX6-XL instead.

[David MacLeod]

ok, maybe I'll end up reselling them on ebay :)

[joe diamond]

About the cold part.

That is what exhaust pipes are for........or make them up in a warm spot. I also have a "cable heater" that I got at a 7-11. When you hit the flame it says "GITT"ER DONE!" just like the Cable Guy with the trouser cleavage.

Joe

[David MacLeod]

lol, I was actually meaning how they stand up to the weather. this piece is in the wind and cold (it is booted and taped) during movements.
I made it so there is enough slack to prevent much movement.
GIT ER DONE !!

[BattleZone]

I also have a "cable heater" that I got at a 7-11.

Joe

Wow... I also got myself a "cable heater" from 7-11. Who knew you could get a Big Gulp and a satellite tool in the same convenient place! :lol:

[houskamp]

I need the "me heater" :lol:

[David MacLeod]

<snicker> trust me, spend 20 minutes out in a -55 wind chill and a hanging tarp feels warm after that :)

[BattleZone]

55 F is plenty cold enough for me. We get snow where I live... about once every 10-15 years, and it usually lasts an hour or two.

[David MacLeod]

lol, know its OT but... spent some time in AL. in december, 1 inch of snow shut the place down. I could not understand that...

[rudeney]

An inch? Wow, you must have been here for the blizzard…:)

[joe diamond]

Ok, Ok!
Serious now.

The only damage I know of regarding cold and fittings is water that gets in and freezes and then thaws. As the cycle repeats itself it pushed the cable electrode a little further apart. Eventually you get an arc that burns the center wire until an open circuit occurs. It looks ok from the outside but there is no wire.

Protect from water with cable grease or an enclosure.

Joe

[BkwSoft]

lol, know its OT but... spent some time in AL. in december, 1 inch of snow shut the place down. I could not understand that...

I know what you mean. I use to laugh when my sister going to school out in CA would talk about the pileups on the freeways because the roads were wet with rain. :nono2: Then back here at home you would have to get at least a couple of inches of snow before they would even roll the plow trucks.

An inch of snow, maybe they would salt and sand major highways just to keep it from packing down into ice, but forget anything else.

Personally I don't mind the snow. It fills in the potholes and makes for a smother ride. :p

[David MacLeod]

man, my road is so much smoother in winter I can drive it at 70 instead of 30... :)

[David MacLeod]

Ok, Ok!
Serious now.

The only damage I know of regarding cold and fittings is water that gets in and freezes and then thaws. As the cycle repeats itself it pushed the cable electrode a little further apart. Eventually you get an arc that burns the center wire until an open circuit occurs. It looks ok from the outside but there is no wire.

Protect from water with cable grease or an enclosure.

Joe

I did use grease and placed boots over the connection and then taped it well, I was worried about moisture too. I can't really enclose it since its the jumper to allow rotation. I positioned both ends so that the ant and pole themselves help a bit, but choices were limited there.
I think I've protected it as well as possible.

[joe diamond]

I did use grease and placed boots over the connection and then taped it well, I was worried about moisture too. I can't really enclose it since its the jumper to allow rotation. I positioned both ends so that the ant and pole themselves help a bit, but choices were limited there.
I think I've protected it as well as possible.

You are probably ok. If it fails I would suspect the boots and or tape held moisture in. You can't be sure. I woundn't mess with them.

I was once paid to remove boots from each CATV installation I did on one system. Then, the next system around the beltway was paying to add boots to all new installations. And I have visited DTV installs I did six years ago with the F connectors that have an O ring & silicon inside; no defects noted. I greased them again. Connections that have been painted seem to be good also.

Go figure

Joe

[David MacLeod]

I have some paint somewhere for electrical connection sealing, might look through the mess to find it.
it should be ok though as is, I'll just keep an eye on it and make sure no ice buildup happens and I should be ok.

[harsh]

The best method is to use no jumper at all. I use a standoff above and below the rotator to take the stress off the balun and make sure the cable doesn't chafe elsewhere.

[David MacLeod]

I tried that but was about 18 inches short on the main cable. I could not come up with the slack anywhere without putting a lot of strain on it.
I set it so the cable does not drag/rub anywhere in the full rotation, its only movement now is in a small 10 inch area.
do you have any pictures of that setup?

[Christopher Gould]

Here's the story:

The first compression F connectors were made by Thomas & Betts, and sold under the "Snap N Seal" name. These quickly became "the" standard in the cable industry, as they were much better than anything that came before.

PPC invented their own compression connector, the EX6, but their connector was shorter than the SNS connectors. PPC made their own compression tool that worked fine for their EX6, but was too short for other brands, which had started popping up. Most other brands adopted the length of the SNS as the "standard" compression connector length.

Cable companies really liked the PPC EX6 connectors, but refused to pay for their now "proprietary" tool, so they bought other brands instead. PPC reacted by releasing the "EX6-XL" version of their connector, which is the "standard" length and works with nearly all compression tools.

IMO, unless you know exactly what you are buying, you should NOT buy the plain EX6, as they will be difficult to get compressed properly unless you own a tool capable of doing so. Stick with the EX6-XL instead.

so is there anything wrong with using the snap-n-seal connectors. i have always used them and liked them.

[RobertE]

Just be carefull, I hear some of the cheaper knockoffs will cause a tear in the space-time continum when the temp stays at exactly 22.2F for 33.3 minutes.

[Mike Bertelson]

<snicker> trust me, spend 20 minutes out in a -55 wind chill and a hanging tarp feels warm after that :)
I use them outside but then if it hits 10° it's rare.

Does digicom have environmental specs on that?

Mike

[houskamp]

by the way, windchill only affects things that generate heat

[David MacLeod]

I am well versed in wind chill, believe you me :)

[David MacLeod]

Just be carefull, I hear some of the cheaper knockoffs will cause a tear in the space-time continum when the temp stays at exactly 22.2F for 33.3 minutes.

whew, I was close then last march, but it was only 33.2 minutes. things were floating around, tv picture started sliding... or maybe it was my medication....

[David MacLeod]

I use them outside but then if it hits 10° it's rare.

Does digicom have environmental specs on that?

Mike
I searched but did not see any.

[Mike Bertelson]

A little googling and I found out that Digicon are supposed to comply with GR-1503 4.1 Temperature Cycling with Humidity +70° F to +140° F to –40°F.

Seeing as how the connectors are not effected by windchill you should be ok.

Mike

[David MacLeod]

ok, I was looking at vendors descriptions.
I have 10 deg safety zone then, that is good.
I'll hit -28 to -30 often but -40 is seldom.

[RobertE]

In all seriousness here, I'd be more concerned about the PVC jacket on the coax getting brittle and cracking/breaking before the fitting.

[Grentz]

In all seriousness here, I'd be more concerned about the PVC jacket on the coax getting brittle and cracking/breaking before the fitting.

Agreed. The connector is just metal and/or sometimes a bit of plastic that should be able to hold up in pretty extreme temps. The coax jacket on the other hand could easily become brittle and with any movement crack and such overtime.

[David MacLeod]

I used dow corning dc4 grease on it, it should cover to -45 if I remember right. its held on semi-exposed aircraft fittings so it should be ok. I've got it stabilized enough, hopefully, that there should be almost no movement in that area. I'll know more that once some ice builds up and I can see how its being stressed. I fastened it so if there is any stress from buildup it will pull on a relief loop.

[harsh]

I set it so the cable does not drag/rub anywhere in the full rotation, its only movement now is in a small 10 inch area.
do you have any pictures of that setup?I don't have any, but I can probably get one this weekend (the sun isn't up when I'm home on weekdays anymore).

[David MacLeod]

I don't have any, but I can probably get one this weekend (the sun isn't up when I'm home on weekdays anymore).
I'd appreciate that, then if I do have a problem I can try something else.

[Mike Bertelson]

According the the MilSpec for cable (Mil-DTL-17H) the PVC jacket is supposed to be meet -40°C to +85°C.

That's plenty cold. :eek:

Mike

[David MacLeod]

C and F meet at approx -40, I do hit this sometimes. most mornings I get up to see -25-30 or so.

[Mike Bertelson]

C and F meet at approx -40, I do hit this sometimes. most mornings I get up to see -25-30 or so.
Keep in mind that's from a Mil Spec.

From what I can tell there isn't a civilian spec for the jacket. Maybe a little more searching....

Still -40° is freakin' cold.

Mike

[David MacLeod]

yeah it is, its a shock stepping out of house into it. luckily that temp isn't too often, but really after -30 I don't really feel the difference.

[Mike Bertelson]

yeah it is, its a shock stepping out of house into it. luckily that temp isn't too often, but really after -30 I don't really feel the difference.
220, 221, What ever it takes. :lol:

[rudeney]

220, 221, What ever it takes. :lol:

You’ve got to stop it with these Mr. Mom references! :lol: