View Full Version : HDMI signal continues to drop on Bravia TV
gopherhockey
01-31-09, 02:07 PM
I am having a problem keeping an HDMI signal with a Bravia TV (Z-Series KDL-46Z4100) and HDMI switching receiver (STRDG920) I recently purchased.
It seems to be the cable. I have to run 20' or better to get from the receiver to the TV. I have tried 2 different 1.3 spec cables from monoprice. It doesn't seem to be the length but the connectors... the cables are fairly heavy and don't seem to seat well so half the time I end up having to wiggle them until I get a signal, then eventually the signal drops again. (oddly enough sound continues to work)
One of the cables I use has this spec: HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors)
I've tried port saver but that doesn't seem to help much. I have the same receiver in my theater running to a Sony projector and that one hasn't had the same issues (and the run is 35 feet)
I know the prevailing opinion is that any HDMI cable will do as long as you get a signal there... but having to constantly mess with the cable to keep a signal is defeating the purpose. Has anyone had this problem and/or have suggestions on a good longer-length cable that will not require me to constantly fiddle with the connections?
I've seen locking cables, but not sure if thats even compatible with my equipment.
is the connection loose on all of the hdmi inputs on your tv?
gopherhockey
01-31-09, 02:25 PM
is the connection loose on all of the hdmi inputs on your tv?
Yup, it doesn't seem to matter much. I had better luck at first using the HDMI input on the side of the TV which is what led me to believe it was the connections vs. the length. (i.e. the cable had more space to arc from the side of the TV, and the HDMI port is not horizontal) Since then it hasn't been much better (and the cable looks horrible sticking out the side of the TV)
It could be the receiver end, but typically twisting (gently) on the connection to the TV is what gets the signal back in place.
What is really frustrating is when I get a signal only for it to drop again by the time I reach to sofa. :(
Just as a reference, in the future you might try not using as heavy of a gauge for that distance. The 24AWG cable is still huge, but a bit smaller than the 22AWG and should be fine for that distance. I use a 24AWG Monoprice HDMI-DVI for a 35ft run to my projector and have not had any issues.
You might even have better luck with the 26AWG, again it should be plenty for a 25ft run:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024006&p_id=2841&seq=1&format=1#largeimage
Another option would be a extender to take the stress off the port, like this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024010&p_id=2891&seq=1&format=2
Honestly, HDMI is a crappy connector in my book compared to some of the more robust connectors out there. I so wish they could have just added audio to DVI somehow as it is a lot more secure in my experience. Also the board connectors are a lot more sturdy with DVI connectors most of the time since it is a bit bigger with more spread out pins.
gopherhockey
01-31-09, 02:57 PM
Just as a reference, in the future you might try not using as heavy of a gauge for that distance.
Yea, it was originally purchased for use in the wall of my theater but wasn't long enough. I actually have a 35' cable thats less thick that I'm using with a little better luck, but still not great, and 10' too long so there is a lot of excess coiled up which probably doesn't help matters.
I was thinking maybe one of the flat style cables or something with a locking end on it like I see is coming out...
Did you see the edit to my post as well, you might look at that extender/port saver as it is lighter weight and lower gauge. Plus pretty cheap as well ;)
kruegsj
02-05-09, 03:36 PM
You might want to check out the new Locking HDMI Cable that is now available from PPC. The Category 2 cable delivers the highest quality HDTV available, HDMI 1.3 at up to 1440p and it is backward compatible with all HDMI-spec ports on the market. The PPC Locking HDMI Cable can be ordered online at Connect2ppc.com.
$49 for a 3' hdmi cable(ouch)
$49 for a 3' hdmi cable(ouch)
Sounds like they are taking a page from Monster's book! :eek2::p
I am having a problem keeping an HDMI signal with a Bravia TV (Z-Series KDL-46Z4100) and HDMI switching receiver (STRDG920) I recently purchased.
It seems to be the cable. I have to run 20' or better to get from the receiver to the TV. I have tried 2 different 1.3 spec cables from monoprice. It doesn't seem to be the length but the connectors... the cables are fairly heavy and don't seem to seat well so half the time I end up having to wiggle them until I get a signal, then eventually the signal drops again. (oddly enough sound continues to work)
One of the cables I use has this spec: HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors)
I've tried port saver but that doesn't seem to help much. I have the same receiver in my theater running to a Sony projector and that one hasn't had the same issues (and the run is 35 feet)
I know the prevailing opinion is that any HDMI cable will do as long as you get a signal there... but having to constantly mess with the cable to keep a signal is defeating the purpose. Has anyone had this problem and/or have suggestions on a good longer-length cable that will not require me to constantly fiddle with the connections?
I've seen locking cables, but not sure if thats even compatible with my equipment.
Do you understand what AWG is and how it works? For those that don't, the lower the number, the bigger the wire. In your house, if you have 20 amp circuits you use #12AWG wire. If you have 15 amp circuits you use #14AWG wire. I think you have the largest (in diameter) HDMI cable. You should be good with that. I have a 25 foot run of the same size HDMI cable and have no problems.
You can find 90 degree HDMI inserts that fit into the HDMI ports on your TV and the HDMI cable plugs into them. They are made especially for problems such as yours, I believe. I buy all my wires at Amazon and have had no problems at all with them. And all six of my plasmas, all Panasonics, have nice tight ports. Never had a connector fall out or had to ''wiggle" one.
I did have an awful lot of problems that were directly related to the HDMI connections on two Sony Hi Def CRT sets. Had nothing to do with the cables, the problem was compatibility. A soon as I switched to component the problems disappeared. And so did the terribly heavy Sony CRTs.
Rich
Just as a reference, in the future you might try not using as heavy of a gauge for that distance. The 24AWG cable is still huge, but a bit smaller than the 22AWG and should be fine for that distance. I use a 24AWG Monoprice HDMI-DVI for a 35ft run to my projector and have not had any issues.
That's wrong. The lower the number the greater the diameter of the cable or wire. The greater the diameter the less resistance (or impedance). What you're suggesting is the same as putting 16AWG wire on a 20 amp circuit. In that case, the 16AWG would quickly fail. In the model you propose, you will increase the resistance (or impedance) by using smaller cables. In other words, you will get better PQ with a larger wire. The longer the run, the bigger wire should be used.
Honestly, HDMI is a crappy connector in my book compared to some of the more robust connectors out there. I so wish they could have just added audio to DVI somehow as it is a lot more secure in my experience. Also the board connectors are a lot more sturdy with DVI connectors most of the time since it is a bit bigger with more spread out pins.
I've never had a problem physically with HDMI connectors on my TVs, DVRs or upscaling DVD players.
Rich
Honestly, HDMI is a crappy connector in my book compared to some of the more robust connectors out there.I would rank eSATA connectors right up there with HDMI on the fecal scale.
I would rank eSATA connectors right up there with HDMI on the fecal scale.
Haven't had any problems with them either.
Rich
davring
02-23-09, 01:13 PM
I havn't had any problems either, but they still are pretty flimsy in design.
ccr1958
02-23-09, 01:22 PM
I havn't had any problems either, but they still are pretty flimsy in design.
i agree...spend lots of dough for A/V equipment
& then a rinky dink connection....IMO HDMI should
screw on like a PC monitor connection
That's wrong. The lower the number the greater the diameter of the cable or wire. The greater the diameter the less resistance (or impedance). What you're suggesting is the same as putting 16AWG wire on a 20 amp circuit. In that case, the 16AWG would quickly fail. In the model you propose, you will increase the resistance (or impedance) by using smaller cables. In other words, you will get better PQ with a larger wire. The longer the run, the bigger wire should be used.
Umm, what? No its not wrong. 24AWG is smaller than 22AWG and 28AWG is even smaller.
Yes, the thicker cable carries the current with less loss (resistance), but for the runs he is talking about, I suggested that he used 24AWG which will work fine with the same PQ, and it does. HDMI is a digital interface and it either gets there or it doesnt. I know that the 24AWG will work for the distance that he listed.
HDMI cable sizes are all about loss (resistance), circuit cable sizes are all about handling the different amounts of current going through them safely. It is a similar topic, but not exactly the same.
I've never had a problem physically with HDMI connectors on my TVs, DVRs or upscaling DVD players.
Rich
Have not had problems on most of mine either, but it is a flimsy connector on the boards and problems have been arising much more with the HDMI connectors than the more robust connectors like RCA/Component, DVI, and Coax in the past. Those used to almost never fail.
I wish HDMI followed through with the DVI type connector, it is much stronger overall.
Have not tried this with HDMI cables but have had luck with some other types. Put a few drops of solder on top of the outside of the connector then file them flat do it just enough to snug it up dont make it to tight so you can unplug the cable if you need to, use a low wattage soldering iron. Or tie a wire tie tight around the cable right in back of the connector you can buy the little plastic blocks the wire ties anchor with stick one to the back of your set and fix it so it wont move.
Umm, what? No its not wrong. 24AWG is smaller than 22AWG and 28AWG is even smaller.
That's confusing. 22AWG has the largest cross-sectional measurement (or diameter), 24AWG is a little narrower or thinner. And 28AWG is really thin. Unless, and I can't help but doubt myself, as usual, HDMI cables are measured differently than all the other American Wire Gauge (or Guide, seen both names used over the years) measurements that I have worked with. You will agree that #16AWG is thinner than #14AWG, right?
Rich
i agree...spend lots of dough for A/V equipment
& then a rinky dink connection....IMO HDMI should
screw on like a PC monitor connection
I agree and disagree. I agree that a ''PC" connection with screws would certainly give a more secure connection, but I can't imagine going behind my various setups and screwing a connection in. The way I do it now is usually by using my fingers and hoping to hit the right port. Would be complicated to have to screw the connectors in.
But, I bet a lot of people who have problems with their HDMI connectors falling out would love to see the "screw on" model of connector.
Rich
Umm, what? No its not wrong. 24AWG is smaller than 22AWG and 28AWG is even smaller.
Yes, the thicker cable carries the current with less loss (resistance), but for the runs he is talking about, I suggested that he used 24AWG which will work fine with the same PQ, and it does. HDMI is a digital interface and it either gets there or it doesnt. I know that the 24AWG will work for the distance that he listed.
HDMI cable sizes are all about loss (resistance), circuit cable sizes are all about handling the different amounts of current going through them safely. It is a similar topic, but not exactly the same.
Have not had problems on most of mine either, but it is a flimsy connector on the boards and problems have been arising much more with the HDMI connectors than the more robust connectors like RCA/Component, DVI, and Coax in the past. Those used to almost never fail.
I wish HDMI followed through with the DVI type connector, it is much stronger overall.
Just reread your original post and I think when I said you were wrong I was referring to the resistance/impedance issue. Didn't see anything wrong with your post regarding the sizes except the resistance issue. Sorry for the confusion. I'd still go with the largest wire.
Rich
Just reread your original post and I think when I said you were wrong I was referring to the resistance/impedance issue. Didn't see anything wrong with your post regarding the sizes except the resistance issue. Sorry for the confusion. I'd still go with the largest wire.
Rich
Ok that makes sense, I was not really upset, we were just both saying the same thing :p
Ok that makes sense, I was not really upset, we were just both saying the same thing :p
Yeah, when I went back and reread our posts that was the conclusion that I came to. Better to argue and clarify something we both understand than to confuse others. :lol:
Rich
hoangdieutrinh
03-17-09, 08:10 AM
Solution for HDMI signal drop
Configuration: TV Sony KDL-46W3000
Amplifier: STR-DA5300ES
DVR: Explorer 8300HD DVR
I had often HDI signal drop problem, that was caused by both machines: STR-DA5300ES and Explorer 8300HD DVR.
To fix that problem, i did:
1) Reboot Explorer 8300HD DVR (power bar off and on)
2) Reseting STR-DA5300ES to factory default (look for "resetting" in your manual page 36)
3) This step is the crutial one: set A/V Sync (Suncrhronizes audio and video output) to 100 ms.
This parameter will force the the amplifier to keep certain amount of sound signals in memory and
when there's a drop in HDMI signal input, you won't see that on your TV. So far, that works fine for me.
Just reread your original post and I think when I said you were wrong I was referring to the resistance/impedance issue. Didn't see anything wrong with your post regarding the sizes except the resistance issue. Sorry for the confusion. I'd still go with the largest wire.
Rich
Using larger wire combats voltage drop caused by the resistance of longer cable runs. It's not an electrical current issue. The value of the current is a constant. When you increase resistance, the voltage drops. Sometimes to levels that make the signal unreadable. By using larger wire, you decrease the resistance of the wire, which in turn causes less drop in voltage.
spartanstew
03-30-09, 09:40 PM
I have a 35' HDMI run from my A/V receiver to my projector. Connected to my projector via HDMI are a blu ray player, SD DVD players and an HR20-700. For years everything has worked fine. About 3 weeks ago I started having problems, but only when using the HR20-700. The picture would be very pixelated or sometimes no picture at all (especially when switching from a SD channel to a HD channel) and sometimes the picture would be full of "sparkles". This only happened with the HR20-700. The blu ray and DVD players still worked great.
I had my HR20-700 set to Native - ON. When I changed it to Native - OFF all the problems went away.
Using larger wire combats voltage drop caused by the resistance of longer cable runs. It's not an electrical current issue. The value of the current is a constant. When you increase resistance, the voltage drops. Sometimes to levels that make the signal unreadable. By using larger wire, you decrease the resistance of the wire, which in turn causes less drop in voltage.
The current is never a constant. As the voltage and resistance varies, so does the current. For instance, on a motor the rotor will always attempt to run at it's rated speed, and if the voltage drops the motor will pull more current, always trying to run at it's rated speed. If the resistance increases the motor will still try to run at it's rated speed and will pull more current. At locked rotor, a three phase motor will pull about ten times it's rated current (trying to reach it's rated speed) and will blow fuses/circuit breakers. I realize this example is an "inductive" load, not a "resistive" load.
In either an inductive load or a resistive load, the resistance of the device doing the "work" determines the amperage pull.
Rich
The current is never a constant. As the voltage and resistance varies, so does the current. For instance, on a motor the rotor will always attempt to run at it's rated speed, and if the voltage drops the motor will pull more current, always trying to run at it's rated speed. If the resistance increases the motor will still try to run at it's rated speed and will pull more current. At locked rotor, a three phase motor will pull about ten times it's rated current (trying to reach it's rated speed) and will blow fuses/circuit breakers. I realize this example is an "inductive" load, not a "resistive" load.
In either an inductive load or a resistive load, the resistance of the device doing the "work" determines the amperage pull.
Rich
For the purpose of calculating voltage drop, the current is a constant. It is used to calculate the drop in the conductor, usually for long runs. Your scenario has to do with the actual load.
For the purpose of calculating voltage drop, the current is a constant. It is used to calculate the drop in the conductor, usually for long runs. Your scenario has to do with the actual load.
You cannot have amperage without a load. I think we are talking about two different things. If you look at the nameplate on a "load" you can calculate the resistance of the load. In an ideal situation, without the voltage varying, the current can be considered constant, but once the circuit is complete and the load causes the current to flow, variations in the current can and do take place. Especially if the load is a drill and you plug it into a two hundred foot extension cord that is not large enough. That's when you see the voltage drop. The actual voltage drop, not the calculated voltage drop. In this situation, a good electrician will say, "Oops, not enough juice".
Aside from that, I do agree that when calculating voltage drop, the current is considered a constant in the equation.
Rich
You cannot have amperage without a load. I think we are talking about two different things. If you look at the nameplate on a "load" you can calculate the resistance of the load. In an ideal situation, without the voltage varying, the current can be considered constant, but once the circuit is complete and the load causes the current to flow, variations in the current can and do take place. Especially if the load is a drill and you plug it into a two hundred foot extension cord that is not large enough. That's when you see the voltage drop. The actual voltage drop, not the calculated voltage drop. In this situation, a good electrician will say, "Oops, not enough juice".
Aside from that, I do agree that when calculating voltage drop, the current is considered a constant in the equation.
Rich
A good electrician wouldn't use 200' of extension cord. It's a good way to fry a perfectly good drill.:grin:
A good electrician wouldn't use 200' of extension cord. It's a good way to fry a perfectly good drill.:grin:
Know many "good'' electricians? I know one that I trust and he would use a really large super service cord for a 200' run. And the drill would work perfectly. But I've seen electricians use whatever they can string together for extension cords and that's what I was referring to. Thin wire and long distances are not acceptable, but that doesn't stop some of them from trying it. The length of the run should be the determining factor in deciding what size extension cord to use. I always make my own extension cords for long runs and always use a really large SS cord for the first 80' feet. After that, a normal SS cord hooked up to the large one will work well. (Within "normal" limits, I've never made a 500' to 1000' extension cord, that's what portable generators are for.)
Rich
A good electrician wouldn't use 200' of extension cord. It's a good way to fry a perfectly good drill.:grin:
Enough electrical arguments, the OP has a problem and we are not adding anything.
Rich
I am having a problem keeping an HDMI signal with a Bravia TV (Z-Series KDL-46Z4100) and HDMI switching receiver (STRDG920) I recently purchased.
It seems to be the cable. I have to run 20' or better to get from the receiver to the TV. I have tried 2 different 1.3 spec cables from monoprice. It doesn't seem to be the length but the connectors... the cables are fairly heavy and don't seem to seat well so half the time I end up having to wiggle them until I get a signal, then eventually the signal drops again. (oddly enough sound continues to work)
One of the cables I use has this spec: HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated Connectors)
I've tried port saver but that doesn't seem to help much. I have the same receiver in my theater running to a Sony projector and that one hasn't had the same issues (and the run is 35 feet)
I know the prevailing opinion is that any HDMI cable will do as long as you get a signal there... but having to constantly mess with the cable to keep a signal is defeating the purpose. Has anyone had this problem and/or have suggestions on a good longer-length cable that will not require me to constantly fiddle with the connections?
I've seen locking cables, but not sure if thats even compatible with my equipment.
You do realize that Sony TVs and HRs have always had "some" incompatibility problems with HDMI wiring. And isn't your receiver a Sony, too? I had two Sony TVs that would work with anything but an HR using HDMI. For the HRs, I had to use component wires.
Rich
Know many "good'' electricians? I know one that I trust and he would use a really large super service cord for a 200' run. And the drill would work perfectly. But I've seen electricians use whatever they can string together for extension cords and that's what I was referring to. Thin wire and long distances are not acceptable, but that doesn't stop some of them from trying it. The length of the run should be the determining factor in deciding what size extension cord to use. I always make my own extension cords for long runs and always use a really large SS cord for the first 80' feet. After that, a normal SS cord hooked up to the large one will work well. (Within "normal" limits, I've never made a 500' to 1000' extension cord, that's what portable generators are for.)
Rich
Most of the people I know are good electricians since I am one also. A good elctrician would make sure that if there wasn't power to an area that needed it he would run temporary power to within 50' of any work area. Extension cords can be strung from those temporary GFCI locations. Just because what you are doing works, doesn't make it the safe, correct way of doing it.
(Within "normal" limits, I've never made a 500' to 1000' extension cord, that's what portable generators are for.)That's what cordless drills are made for.
That's what cordless drills are made for.
Yeah, I know. I used to buy Makita cordless drills for our mechanics. And every time I did, within a week or two, the Makita would be "gone". Must have bought 20 of the damn things and every one of them disappeared. Went back to extension cords and portable generators. Biggest portable generators I could find and some of them went missing. Can't win.
Rich
Most of the people I know are good electricians since I am one also. A good elctrician would make sure that if there wasn't power to an area that needed it he would run temporary power to within 50' of any work area. Extension cords can be strung from those temporary GFCI locations. Just because what you are doing works, doesn't make it the safe, correct way of doing it.
Let me say this again. "Enough electrical arguments, the OP has a problem and we are not adding anything."
Rich
hummer1823
04-06-09, 03:11 PM
Not sure if this will help, I quickly read the OP. Does he have an issue with video or audio.
For all you KDLZ people remember to update the firmware of your TV.
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=KDL46Z4100
Not sure if this will help, I quickly read the OP. Does he have an issue with video or audio.
For all you KDLZ people remember to update the firmware of your TV.
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=KDL46Z4100
I used to have Sonys all over my house, TVs, VCRs, DVD players, etc. When they work correctly they are great, but I've had an inordinate amount of problems with the mechanical aspects of them over the years.
The VCRs had, easily, the best picture of all the VCRs, but keeping them running was rough. And I had twelve of them going before I found DVRs.
My Sony TVs wouldn't work with an HDMI connection, worked fine on component. Now one of my Sony DVD upscalers won't go in reverse (suppose it was a car :lol:). I've pretty much given up on anything Sony makes. But when they work, they are the best. A conundrum, to say the least.
Rich
hummer1823
04-07-09, 12:14 PM
And I had twelve of them going before I found DVRs.
:eek2::lol:
But when they work, they are the best. A conundrum, to say the least.
Yes i would agree, but i guess that's true about any electronic device you always take a gamble when you buy it. :rolleyes:
:eek2::lol:
Yes i would agree, but i guess that's true about any electronic device you always take a gamble when you buy it. :rolleyes:
Yeah, but I don't have the mechanical problems with any other brands that I've had with Sony. Even some one of a kind products such as Toslinc switchers and stuff like that seem to be relatively trouble free. All my Panasonic stuff works without problems.
And Sony's tech support isn't too hot either. I had a 40" CRT Hi Def TV that just went dead. Thought the power cord was bad, but the more I thought about what had happened, it sounded like a bad circuit breaker or fuse. Called Sony, was told by two techs that the TV had neither a circuit breaker or an internal fuse. Took off the case to check the juice coming in and saw a small fuse. Blown. Got a new fuse and the TV was fine. How could they not know the TV was fused?
Rich
hummer1823
04-07-09, 02:05 PM
Yeah, but I don't have the mechanical problems with any other brands that I've had with Sony. Even some one of a kind products such as Toslinc switchers and stuff like that seem to be relatively trouble free. All my Panasonic stuff works without problems.
And Sony's tech support isn't too hot either. I had a 40" CRT Hi Def TV that just went dead. Thought the power cord was bad, but the more I thought about what had happened, it sounded like a bad circuit breaker or fuse. Called Sony, was told by two techs that the TV had neither a circuit breaker or an internal fuse. Took off the case to check the juice coming in and saw a small fuse. Blown. Got a new fuse and the TV was fine. How could they not know the TV was fused?
Rich
Most costumer support places read from a book, if it doesn't follow there book and you ask questions like this, they are told not to answer...the fuse might not be a consumer serviceable item so it might be that they know; its just "you" are not supposed to know... see what i am saying?
I called Sony tech support once also, ended up fixing the problem on my own... thanks to forums like these. :D
Most costumer support places read from a book, if it doesn't follow there book and you ask questions like this, they are told not to answer...the fuse might not be a consumer serviceable item so it might be that they know; its just "you" are not supposed to know... see what i am saying?
Yeah, I know what the SOP is with most tech support, but Sony did have pretty good tech support at one time. And they were perfectly willing to send out a repairman to fix my TV, for about $250, as I recall. This for a set I was trying to get rid of because of it's size and weight (500lbs) and replace it with a plasma. After I replaced the fuse, a contractor did a lot of work in one of my family rooms and took the 40" Sony in payment. (List price for TV and stand was $4000. I paid $1700 for both.) I think the fuse I replaced cost about a quarter.
On this note, if you have a Sony CRT TV and it goes dead for no reason you can think of, pull the case off and in the area that the power cord enters the TV, there is a small, time delay fuse. Looks at first glance like a resistor, but you can see glass if you look closely and it is clipped into the board.
Rich
hummer1823
04-08-09, 10:13 AM
Yeah, I know what the SOP is with most tech support, but Sony did have pretty good tech support at one time. And they were perfectly willing to send out a repairman to fix my TV, for about $250, as I recall. This for a set I was trying to get rid of because of it's size and weight (500lbs) and replace it with a plasma. After I replaced the fuse, a contractor did a lot of work in one of my family rooms and took the 40" Sony in payment. (List price for TV and stand was $4000. I paid $1700 for both.) I think the fuse I replaced cost about a quarter.
On this note, if you have a Sony CRT TV and it goes dead for no reason you can think of, pull the case off and in the area that the power cord enters the TV, there is a small, time delay fuse. Looks at first glance like a resistor, but you can see glass if you look closely and it is clipped into the board.
Rich
Was it an old Wega? I had a 36" that thing was a beast! :lol:
Was it an old Wega? I had a 36" that thing was a beast! :lol:
Yeah, just gave my son's girlfriend's mother a 36" that "only'' weighed 250lbs. The 40" was a Wega too. I had a Mitsubishi 40" that didn't weigh nearly as much as the Sony 40", but then it didn't have the PQ that the Sony did. Over the last two years, I've given or bartered away seven CRT TVs.
Rich
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