Lightning/Surge Protection: What do you use?

[ibglowin]

Well we had our first Summer storm of the season roll through yesterday. I live in the mountains of Northern New Mexico. We are second only to Florida in total lightning strikes each year. We bought all our HDTV equipment late last Summer and now I am panicky about protecting all our stuff from lightning strikes. I have our HDTV antenna mounted on a 40ft mast which goes into the ground. I have (2) coax leads coming off it going to each of the HDTV's in the house. We also have the Dish500 antenna running 4 Dish receivers (2- 6000's, 2-508PVR's). We are talking around $10K wrapped up in TV's and receivers here folks.

How do you protect this stuff from a lightning hit? I am looking at surge protectors that also have coax inputs but even they say they will not protect against "certain lightning surges". I looked at some HAM equipment sites that were selling actual lightning surge protectors. These look like an inline filter that will pop if lightning hits the line. Looks like they go for around $30 each.

Question is what actually works for lightning surges? What is a waste of money? Any help here is much appreciated. :shrug:

[ClearCom]

I use Panamax exclusively. They have units ranging from $35 to $175 depending on what you need to protect.
The one we sell the most of is the DBS+8 Surge. It allows for 2 coax feeds (for dual tuner units) had 8 outlets, 4 switched and 4 unswitched, plus it also has a phone jack (the most vulnerable spot to get a surge).
Every customer that decides on a PVR/DVR is highly advised to purchase one.
The surge also comes with a lifetime warranty and it also has a $100,00 warranty should the surge go through and wipe out the TV, Sat, VCR, DVD, etc.
I only had one person make a claim, and Panamax paid in 48 hours to replace a 50" Sony projection and the satellite receiver that both popped!

[beegfoot]

I have one customer living on a hill that takes many lighting strikes. Before he became a Dish customer with me, he lost 3 primestar systems to lightning.

We installed the Panamax 8, DBS+3. Since that day, roughly 3 years ago, he's lost 4 of the Panamax units, but never lost any receivers, HD TV, or surround sound system. Plus the $100,000. policy with Panamax replaced the blown surge protectors.

However, no surge protector will cover a direct strike.

I see most receivers blown by a surge in the electrical circuit and through the telephone line. Make sure your surge protector will give you protection for satellite coax, telephone and electrical surges.

Your local satellite TV dealer can fill you in for more info.

[ibglowin]

Excellent. So what Panamax model would be best suited for inline RG6 coax. Are these best installed inside or outside the house. Where can they be purchased?

Thanks!

[Frapp]

Originally posted by beegfoot
<snip>However, no surge protector will cover a direct strike<snip>
Actually, most Panamax protectors and some other high quality brands will protect against a direct lightning strike. The surge protector and related equipment must be "properly" connected using the "single common ground theory". ie, all equipment must be plugged into the same common ground :)

Also, it is correct that all Cable/DBS, AC and Telephone lines must pass through the protector.

You can go to www.panamax.com for more product info.

[gcutler]

Originally posted by Frapp
Also, it is correct that all Cable/DBS, AC and Telephone lines must pass through the protector.

My brother learned the hard way about Telephone line being a back door to ligthning strikes.

[John Corn]

I just took a lightning strike last week as well.....I learned the hardway, it was a direct hit. :(

Intresting thread, im intrested in everyones replys. I need to get something soon, I now have a new 57" RPTV, a new 721, and new surround/dvd player.

[Bob Haller]

UPS,. has lots of advantages. Put your dish/es down low. Mine are on my deck just a few feet off the ground.

[ClearCom]

Panamax makes various models. The one we use the most is the DBS+8.
Panamax makes $300 units that will also buffer the voltage and will reset after a strike.
They are very good with making good on the warranty too!

[John Walsh]

I live in Florida and about six weeks ago we had a really bad electrical storm and it took out my Toshiba 57h81 widescreen TV. Cost me about $600 to fix. I did have surge protection but not on the cable coming in from my satellite. I had to learn the hard way.

[Frapp]

When I specialized in surge protection a few years ago, it was always amazing at how many people simply wanted to plug the AC of their equipment into the protector. Most people had no clue or would not believe me when I suggested they needed to protect all incoming lines. I even lost some sales because customers would check with another dealer/source and they would give them the bogus theory that I was just trying to sell them a more expensive protector to make more money :confused:

Most of my competitors were so illiterate anyway, they probably knew little difference about the protectors :rolleyes:

The funniest thing I will always remember in relation to this subject is a while back in the local Best Buy store, a couple had just purchased a complete computer system, computer, monitor, printer, the works. They were about to check out and were looking at surge protectors as I was next to them looking at UPS,s.

They grabbed one for about $25.00 and then saw one for $14.95. They remarked: Let`s get the cheap one, it will do fine :lol:

[ibglowin]

The monsoon season has arrived over a month early! We had another major thunderstorm yesterday afternoon. Lightning strikes directly overhead. We lost power for 30min as well. I went around uplugging everything as fast as I could as well as the coax lines going into the recievers from the HD (lightning rod) antenna. I ordered (2) of these online yesterday. They should be here by the end of the week if I am lucky. They look like they will do the job. 8 outlets and 4 coax lines for each. This is still a bit scary.

Would your homeowners policy pay for a lightning induced loss like this?

[Geronimo]

Several years ago an oak tree that was in my back yard (note the past tense) was hit by lightning. Several surge suppressors dies in what followed. One even had a charred plug. But the only appliance I lost was a coffeemaker (the timer no longer worked).


At that time I invested in hugheer quality suppressors and even had an in line suppressor put in. About two years later lightning hit the same tree. I did not lose any appliances or electronics. I did however lose the oak tree.

Not sure I could have done much about that.

[bearklaw]

I'll add my vote for Panamax. A few months ago we had a major wind storm, and one of our neighbors Cyprus trees dropped a 30 foot branch onto the power lines that feed our house. Instead of ripping them down, it shorted two of them out, so instead of having two 120v segments in the house, we had a 0v and a 240v segment. (And a huge shower of sparks in the alley way where the power lines are.)

It blew out all three Panamax protectors I had. Both DBS units did their job perfectly and though the protectors died, no equipment was damaged. An ancient (10+ year old) unit died, and the computer that was plugged into it had its power supply fail. Panamax replaced all three protectors (got a much better replacement for the ancient one) AND paid for the power supply replacement. All I had to do was pay a $10 processing fee and postage to send them the dead ones.

-BearKlaw

[Martyva]

Here's a Panamax story. Several years ago at the CES in Mexico City a station switch occured and all the power went to the building displaying 5 mill in electronics. 4.5 mill in equipment was destroyed a half mill was hooked up to Panamax. That made a lot of believers in the industry.

[Mike8675309]

I would highly recommend a good UPS for protection from brown out situations.

Here are some links I've saved regarding grounding:


Direct Strike Lightning Protection (http://www.harvardrepeater.org/news/lightning.html)

Ground Loop Discussion (http://www.siber-sonic.com/broadcast/GLoopwhatis.html)

UFER Ground Systems (http://scott-inc.com/html/ufer.htm)

PolyPhaser technical documents (http://www.polyphaser.com/ppc_technical.asp)

Grounding PDF (http://www.leminstruments.com/pdf/LEGP.pdf)

ZeroSurge Technical and Educational Info (http://www.zerosurge.com/HTML/works.html)

[mancow]

I have a story much like that of bearklaw. 3 yrs ago a truck hit a pole about 300yds from my house, phases slapped together and a surge occurred. I had c/band sat at the time, it was on, tv was on and a computer was on. Two panamax surge protectors where fried but no equipment was damaged. Panamax replaced both surge protectors with better and newer models than I had. Go Panamax You made a believer out of me.

[John Corn]

Looks like you can buy Panamax off ebay as well.

This looks like a reasonably priced one that would work well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3027204277&category=32830

[davidmg1]

The one on ebay looks like a great deal....

If the strip is covered by their 100,000 dollar warranty, does it matter if you get one with less features and less costly as long as all the connections go through it?

[pinkertonfloyd]

Best thing you can do is ground everything(Cold Water Pipe or a true grounding rod) with a large gauge wire. The best protection is to drain as much as you can to ground, and then the panamax or simular protectors to do the rest. There's only so much they can drain, so the more you can send to true earth ground, the better off you are. Sadly I rarely see people ground masts/dishes correctly, including the "pros".

[Guest]

Tripplite is the only company that I know of that does not exclude lighting or acts of god in their warranty / insurance. I prefer this brand over Panamax for this reason.
http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=109

[msanto]

BTW, if you buy online, not this exclusion:

Panamax Connected Equipment Protection Policy and Expanded Satellite Receiver Warranty are only valid for products purchased from Authorized Panamax Internet Dealers

Eh? I buy from an authorized dealer online, I plug it into the wall, plug in my equipment ... ????

I buy from an unauthorized dealer (same item), plug it into the wall, plug in my equipment ... ????

There's a difference (aside from a much higher price at the authorized dealer, usually)?

[John Corn]

These companies make surge protection, surely they cover lightning strikes? :confused:

Here's one from Monster, seems nice but abit pricey.
http://www.monstercables.com/power/productPagePower.asp?pin=1219

[tm22721]

If you want industrial surge protection (ala NASA space shuttle launch complex in FLA) buy Polyphaser.

Had this equiopment on all of my C band and Ku band dishes for 16 years now, no losses so far.

Before Polyphaser I was replacing LNBs and polarotors every two weeks in the summer.

[Joe Bernardi]

I have whole house surge protectors installed at my circuit panel.
I also use APC Surge Arrest Professional models on my home theater and computer equipment as extra protection.

[Rick_EE]

Originally posted by John Corn
These companies make surge protection, surely they cover lightning strikes? :confused:

[/url]

There is nothing in this world that can protect you from direct a hit, that is what a lot don't cover.

Since it is the voltage built up is enough to cross free air, it could possibly follow the outside of your cable.

Lightning rods are pointy not to attract a hit, but to prevent them. The points make it easier for charge to bleed into the air, thus reducing the built up electrical field. Then the lightning hits somewhere else where the charge is bigger.

A whole house surge protector is good, but don't forget your coax and phone.

[Mike8675309]

Direct lightning strike events are rare enough that the warranty that surge suppression companies expouse are a viable way for them to sell their units at higher prices and recover any costs they need to outlay.

And yes, your electronic components can be protected from a direct lighting strike, assuming a direct lightning strike doesn't physically strike the electronic component. But a simple surge suppressor will not do it.

Look at some of the links posted above. Radio and Television transmission towers manage to stay on the air, weathering direct lightning strikes without electronic damage. It's all about earth ground.

[Cholly]

I know this is an old thread -- but I thought it was worth reopening. I've been looking for protection for my home theater system for some time, not being satisfied with my present surge protector, since it doesn't offer dbs protection (and I'm paranoid about protecting my equipment: next step is to get UPS as well). I searched the web and came up with Panamax as the most logical solution for protecting my 811 and 721 (3 satellite lines). I chose the PM8DBS-EX and the Max SSP Allpath to do the job, and ordered them from powersystemsdirect.com -- total price, $99.98. I'd done a search on the Panamax web site for local dealers and found none, then used their list of authorized internet retailers, settling on this one because their product listing was most complete and pricing was best.
Yesterday, I talked to my local retailer and found that he is an authorized Panamax dealer. In the past, he had always been advising his customers to include Panamax surge supressors with their installation, but encountered resistance from people who thought he was just trying to pad their bill. Had I known he sold them, I'd probably have bought from him even if the price were higher, just to support him.

[Jason Nipp]

Cholly...I use Panamax and I think you made a good choice. I have seen fried Panamax units that did what they were supposed to...save the rest of your equipment...I know if you take a hit Panamax will even replace your unit...and will also cut you a check for any damaged gear if it fails to stop the hit. I have the 5100 which has built in isolation and suppression....It's rack mountable...if you buy the mounting flanges...I believe I paid just under $300 for my unit...BTW did you see Panamax's link for unauthorized internet dealers...

[khearrean]

Well, just to put my 2 cents worth in here, I haven't heard anyone suggest here to use Monster equip. For what it's worth, I use a Monster Line conditioner/surge protector. Providing everything is routed thru that unit, they claim all equip. is fully protected and even offer a $ guarantee against any such loss. Now when it comes to collecting on that guarantee if needed, I can't tell you what hoops you might have to jump through.

Ken

[SimpleSimon]

Well, if history is any indication, the Monster unit costs 2-4 times as much as any other and is rated the same or even less than competitive units.

[larrystotler]

Best thing you can do is ground everything(Cold Water Pipe or a true grounding rod) with a large gauge wire. The best protection is to drain as much as you can to ground, and then the panamax or simular protectors to do the rest. There's only so much they can drain, so the more you can send to true earth ground, the better off you are. Sadly I rarely see people ground masts/dishes correctly, including the "pros".

NEC Code states that to use a water pipe, it MUST be the pipe from the ground, it MUST be a copper pipe, it MUST go a minimum of 20 feet into the gorund, and you MUST attach the ground wire as close to the entry point of the pipe as possible. It will also probably fry your well pump, if you have one, as well as your hot water heater if you have a strike, due to the bleed down the pipe. I posted this not too long ago:

Ok, for grounding:

1. NEC code states that ALL outside wiring MUST be grounded within 2 feet of the entry point of the
structure, preferably on the OUTSIDE. This includes telephone, cable, low voltage wiring, etc.
2. Prefered ground is to attach to the main house ground and enter at that point.
3. Cold water Pipe CAN be used IF it is the one from the outside and goes at least 20 feet into the ground. Any other water pipe ground is NOT to code. And it must be attached as close to the outside wall as possible.
4. A licensed electrician is required in most states to install a ground rod, UNLESS the owner does it.
5. IF a ground rod is driven, it is supposed to be connected to the main house ground and a rod must be driven every 20 feet to the main ground, and all rods must be connected with #6 bare copper wire or better.
6. If an outside ground is NOT available, a 2500+ joule grounded surge with pass thrus can be used. However, IF any of the wires are unplugged, it is no longer to code, and the receiver must be plugged into the surge as well. This mainly applies to apartments, or structure with old style grounding. Also, the structure MUST have a proper 3 prong grounded outlet.
7. The SBCA says that the dish is supposed to be grounded as well, since, like Simon pointed out, it is not directly connected to the coax. But it is MORE important than the coax be grounded, because even if the dish is grounded, the surge can run down the coax line and blow out the equipment.
8. A grounded surge is recommended, since a grounded system can still feed a 100+ volt surge down the line. The higher the joule rating the better.
9. I do not recommend using the switch as a main ground, but it can be used as a secondary ground as long as the coax is grounded between the dish and the switch. Dish has waffled back and forth on this issue. But if the coax is ground before the switch, the switch MAY survive. Using the switch as the main ground will probably fry it.
Trust me, I have grounded DP34s MANY times, and have had no probs. Now, if a D* system isn't grounded a static charge can built up and screw up the LNB until the receivers are unplugged. I haven't seen this as much with E* tho.

JUST GROUND IT!!!!!

Simon likened it to overkill, but like I say, the day I quit being paranioid is the day they are gonna git me!

[SimpleSimon]

... Simon likened it to overkill, but like I say, the day I quit being paranioid is the day they are gonna git me!:)
The only real "overkill" issues I have is the multiple ground rod and bonding disagreement, and that the switch is not a suitable primary ground attachment for the coax.

Any direct or near hit by lightning is probably going to fry most or all of the gear, so we'll leave that part out of it. The ground path in this case is to help protect the house itself by (hopefully) encouraging the lightning to follow that path instead of coming inside and finding the building electrical ground. In fact, a case could be made to ensure that the dish and coax grounds are NOT part of the building ground for just that reason. Personally, I don't think that part matters one way or the other. I've seen the strike follow the outside ground path, and I've seen it come inside. We're just trying to move the odds into our favor.

As for the static issue, having a direct path to ground PREVENTS static buildup, so there's no discharge to worry about - so a switch being "downstream" of a grounding block makes no difference.

[Marcus S]

Tripp Lite ISOBAR states lightning protection on their product, the preferred protection choice among professional HT installers, and rated #1.

The only reason you hear more about Panamax, is that it is available at your local retailer. Tripp Lite is only available on-line or from commercial electric suppliers.

[Jason Nipp]

Tripp Lite ISOBAR states lightning protection on their product, the preferred protection choice among professional HT installers, and rated #1.

The only reason you hear more about Panamax, is that it is available at your local retailer. Tripp Lite is only available on-line or from commercial electric suppliers.
Actually it's usually the other way around...The reason tripplite is hard to find is most AV guys don't look into the computer isles when shopping. Tripplite (Isobar and Super 7) are in just about every computer store, Best Buy, Circuit City I have been in...Panamax has a local dealership network and usually only the higher line retailer/dealers carry these products...In fact most carry the Monster lines in lieu of Panamax...I'm sure this is because Monster does most of its business/reputation in the form of marketing hype.

Jason

[Cholly]

Tripp Lite ISOBAR states lightning protection on their product, the preferred protection choice among professional HT installers, and rated #1.

The only reason you hear more about Panamax, is that it is available at your local retailer. Tripp Lite is only available on-line or from commercial electric suppliers.
Now, I haven't checked with all of the professional HT installers in my area to see what they use (but a few, plus Circuit City only feature Monster cable products (ugh!))
I agree with Jason -- I can go to a local computer supply store and buy Tripp-Lite products, but there were NO local listings for Panamax (of course, I discovered after the fact that my local Dish retailer is a Panamax dealer). Panamax appears to be more selective than either Tripp-Lite or Monster.
In looking at Tripp-Lite's web site, I se NO products that give protection on multiple satellite inputs. Also, the specifications for their Home Theater line make no mention of bandpass of their protected coax lines. Very important information. OTOH, Panamax clearly states a bandpass of 950-2250 MHz with no more than 1 db insertion loss. Just what is needed for dbs receivers. Furthermore, the Panamax supressor I ordered will accomodate 2 satellite inputs plus 2 cable/antenna inputs, and with the expansion unit I ordered, accomodates an additional satellite input. No other manufacturer that I'm aware of has this capability.

[Marcus S]

Tripp-Lite will send you the DBS specifications if you email their technical support and I agree that it should be stated on their web site. While I agree the Panamax 2 OTA & 2 DBS inputs are nice, the Panamax is rated at a Single Pulse Energy Dissipation of 1875 Joules while Tripplite's DBS power strip is rated at 3570 Joules.

Both products are good and state lightning protection, which is very important, but if the higher rating makes the difference between fried and non fried, that is even more important than than the number of convenience inputs. Tripp Lite also carries allot of certifications, Panamax only carries one, and most such as the Monster Power HTS 2000 MKII carry none.

Panamax M8HC-PRO (http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=2&sec=detail&id=236&ly=v)
Tripplite HT10DBS (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2813)
Tripplite ISOBAR6DBS (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=109)

[SimpleSimon]

I think I mentioned (maybe in another thread) that my nice cheap Cyberpower surge suppressor has 2 coax protectors that seem to work just fine - at least for Legacy LNBs.

[Marcus S]

While the Cyberpower 895 advertises 3600 Joules surge protection it also does not advertise DBS RF frequency range and is in plastic box, nor does it claim any certifications. When I emailed their tech support, I received a quick response that the 895 is rated for C-Band, is not yet certified for DBS, but would probably work just fine.

[Cholly]

Tripp-Lite will send you the DBS specifications if you email their technical support and I agree that it should be stated on their web site. While I agree the Panamax 2 OTA & 2 DBS inputs are nice, the Panamax is rated at a Single Pulse Energy Dissipation of 1875 Joules while Tripplite's DBS power strip is rated at 3570 Joules.

Both products are good and state lightning protection, which is very important, but if the higher rating makes the difference between fried and non fried, that is even more important than than the number of convenience inputs. Tripp Lite also carries allot of certifications, Panamax only carries one, and most such as the Monster Power HTS 2000 MKII carry none.

Panamax M8HC-PRO (http://www.panamax.com/products.cfm?group=2&sec=detail&id=236&ly=v)
Tripplite HT10DBS (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2813)
Tripplite ISOBAR6DBS (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=109)
In rereading the specs for the PM8DBS-EX, I see that the energy dissipation rating is a good deal less than the M8HC-PRO. Oh, well... maybe I can take comfort in knowing that my area is not particularly high in lightning strikes, and power surges haven't really been a big issue. :sure:
Time will tell (I hope not!)

[SimpleSimon]

My Cyberpower 890 is rated at 2800 joules, and the box says "Digital Satellite Systems" for the coax ports.

[Marcus S]

DBS is not stated on Cyberpower's web site nor does the 890 or 895 specification claim that these models are capable of up to 2250 MHz DBS. Digital Satellite is a generic term. If the product does not state DBS in it's description, keep looking. Bargain pricing is usually the first clue.

Of course any surge protection is better than no protection, but DB loss past 2100 MHZ is important as well.

[Mark Lamutt]

So, which surge protectors are capable of 2250 MHz for the coax connections? I assume the Panamax ones are, as they are the popular ones with DBS retailers. What about the other ones? I know that the Monster power one that I picked up about 5 years ago isn't.

[Marcus S]

Mark, I am only aware that Panamax and Tripplite acknowledge 2250 Mhz in their professional consumer surge protection products and have acceptable Single Pulse Energy Dissipation ratings.

[SimpleSimon]

Considering the signal is only passing through the box for about one inch, I REALLY do NOT think there's much loss involved. If there's an active semiconductor in the middle, then it might be an issue.

I'd be happy to test it if someone wants to loan me a DishPro LNBF. :)

[Marcus S]

Consider that when the first 72+ channel VHF and digital cable systems rolled out, consumers discovered that they could not effectively split a signal past 72 channels using a standard UHF/VHF splitter from Radio Shack. Legacy RF splitters where originally designed for up to 69 VHF channels 500Mhz, 493Mhz nominal and up to 83 UHF channels from 471Mhz to 900Mhz, 885Mhz nominal.

Band pass can hurt you in less than 1". Band pass cut off between 2100 and 2250 Mhz may incur up to 12 db insertion signal loss if the product is not rated for DBS. -12db translates to at least -10% DBS signal strength.

[Jason Nipp]

Considering the signal is only passing through the box for about one inch, I REALLY do NOT think there's much loss involved. If there's an active semiconductor in the middle, then it might be an issue.

I'd be happy to test it if someone wants to loan me a DishPro LNBF. :)

Actually if you supply the suppressor, I'll test and invite any of you to participate under NDA of course. My company has all the equipment to do line cross, ESD, and surge testing...Up to 20kV if I am not mistaken...I can check this....If we were really interested in doing this I can even put in under thermal imaging to watch heat rise conditions etc...We have all kinds of goodies.

Jason

[SimpleSimon]

Marcus: Yes, you're right that it can hurt - but only if there's something active in the way - and that's what we don't yet know.

Ah! Wait a minute - I could try routing some WiFi (2.4GHz) through it, and use Netstumbler to see what (if any) difference there is. Yeah, Netstumbler isn't a spectrum analyzer, but with my WiFi gear, we'll at least know if anything significant is going on. :D

It'll take me a while to dig up what I need and hack a couple of cables together, so don't expect any quick answers.

[Marcus S]

Are you saying that -db signal reduction, which compounds rain and snow fade, is speculation and does not make a difference in watching a program versus not watching a program? :grin:

[SimpleSimon]

Huh? Of course, loss of signal strength is not good. The discussion here is whether a surge suppressor (at least mine) actually contributes to the loss (and if so by how much).

I may not have stated as such, but my Cybepower is at worst a near-zero loss up to 1500MHz - because I checked my strengths before and after.

Now, the question is whether it'll work OK with a DishPro (2200MHz) setup. My hypothesis is that if there's little/no loss with WiFi (2400MHz), then there's not going to be any problem with DishPro.

[Cholly]

Mark, I am only aware that Panamax and Tripplite acknowledge 2250 Mhz in their professional consumer surge protection products and have acceptable Single Pulse Energy Dissipation ratings.
Marcus -- could you expand on this? What would be an acceptable Single Pulse Energy Dissipation level?
Also, I need to correct my previous posts. In reviewing my order, I purchased the Panamax Max8DBS+5, not the PM8DBS-EX :) -- a big difference.
It's quite similar to the MH8C-Pro in many ways -- it has a slightly lower Single Pulse level (1650 vs 1875 Joules) and no Ethernet protection, but adds protection for a second Antenna/cable coax line

[Marcus S]

Typically surge protection manuf's can label their product as lightning protected from 1875+ Joules. But we are also talking about the level of protection from a nearby strike such as a power transformer down the street, a strike next door, or on your property. The closer the strike the longer the energy pulse. A higher Joule rating states that the surge protector can absorb a longer energy pulse.

Only commercial protection products offer transformer based isolation in addition to surge protection and claim levels of protection short of a direct lightning strike. So to answer your question, the starting point of lightning protection begins at 1875 Joules.

"Surge energy levels are best measured in Joules. This is a measure of power over a specific period of time. In general, J = VAS, or Joules = volts * amps * seconds. This means that the longer a pulse lasts with the same voltage and current level, the greater the Joules of energy. One BTU equals 1,055 Joules."