Future-proofing wiring as much as possible

[genemc]

We will be building a new house during the next year and will have a dedicated home theater with an adjacent equipment room. My initial thoughts are at least 6 runs of RG6 (don't have SWM but do have OTA antenna) plus phone/DSL coming in from outside to the equipment rack and 2 runs of Cat6 (HDMI over Cat6), 2 runs of Cat5e (phone and networking), 2 runs of RG6 from the rack to each room. I currently have 4 HDDVRs (HR21-100 with AM21, HR20-100, HR20-700, and HR 10-250..which will eventually be phased out) and will probably add a 4x4 matrix HDMI switcher. Is there anything else that might be needed for possible future implementation of multi-room viewing or anything else expected from DirecTV in the relatively near future?
Genemc

[carl6]

If you are going non-SWM, then I would have 3 runs of RG6 to each room (two for DVR tuners, one for OTA). An extra line of Cat5e wouldn't hurt either. That should be adequate for any DirecTV requirements. Any of the possible MRV implementations I've heard rumors of would either use regular ethernet networking, or possibly could be done over coax although no official announcements have been made as to what infrastructure might be needed if/when it happens.

[JB292]

It appears you have it covered. One idea would be to run conduit from the attic and or crawl space to the drops to facilitate new unknown cables?

[shovelhd]

Why are you using baluns for HDMI? How long are the runs?

[PokerJoker]

Look closely at the shape of each room vis a vis the usage and furniture layout planned for each one. You might well want to have more than one drop location in some rooms. For example, I sure wish that some of my rooms had wiring at each end.:mad:

Sounds like you're on the right track. I would probably try to use a different colored jacket for each UTP cable and different colored coax runs too, if possible, although I know some folks don't cotton to that practice.

Keith

[sonofcool]

In 2007 I built a home and found the the type of cable I ran added little to the cost. Most of the cost was in laying the cable (and terminating). I chose a cable that had 2 fiber, 2 CAT-5 and 2 RG-6. I ran it to multiple locations in every room. The versatility really helps because room usage changes from what I originally planned.
Also, be sure to use a patch-panel large enough to terminate all of it.

I agree with the other poster regarding conduits from attic to crawl/space (with access in points in the media room behind the TV and any cabinets. This helped with wiring for the home-theater quite a bit. I use this conduit for other non-planned usage as well.

[genemc]

If you are going non-SWM, then I would have 3 runs of RG6 to each room (two for DVR tuners, one for OTA). An extra line of Cat5e wouldn't hurt either. That should be adequate for any DirecTV requirements. Any of the possible MRV implementations I've heard rumors of would either use regular ethernet networking, or possibly could be done over coax although no official announcements have been made as to what infrastructure might be needed if/when it happens.
Thanks for the idea, I have changed my notes to include 3 RG6 and 3 Cat6 or 5e for each faceplate and with a patch panel the UTP can be phone, network, IR, or whatever else might be needed. Genemc

[genemc]

Why are you using baluns for HDMI? How long are the runs?
I am not sure yet that I will be using baluns until the plans are complete and I know the length of the runs but I am just hedging my bets. Genemc

[harsh]

I chose a cable that had 2 fiber, 2 CAT-5 and 2 RG-6.Did you end up using the fiber at all?

[genemc]

In 2007 I built a home and found the the type of cable I ran added little to the cost. Most of the cost was in laying the cable (and terminating). I chose a cable that had 2 fiber, 2 CAT-5 and 2 RG-6. I ran it to multiple locations in every room. The versatility really helps because room usage changes from what I originally planned.
Also, be sure to use a patch-panel large enough to terminate all of it.

I agree with the other poster regarding conduits from attic to crawl/space (with access in points in the media room behind the TV and any cabinets. This helped with wiring for the home-theater quite a bit. I use this conduit for other non-planned usage as well.
I fully agree with having multiple drops in the room and although I din't mention is, my plan is to have unterminated runs behind blank wallplates on major walls to allow for moving furniture around. The post about the conduit is dead on also and I found a company that makes plastic channel that is shaped like a 2x4 that goes between two studs and gives more space that round conduit but there is a chance this house will be off-grade and have a crawl space that will make cable running simpler. I would rather fight with spiders and snakes than blown insulation. I live in Florida so a basement is not a viable option (we call them indoor swimming pools due to the high water table). Genemc

[genemc]

Did you end up using the fiber at all?
I was debating about fiber but with the HR21 PRO being the only thing I ever saw using fiber and the fact that I have never terminated fiber and have no equipment for terminating it I will chance having to run it later in conduit or up from crawl space. Genemc

[joe diamond]

It appears you have it covered. One idea would be to run conduit from the attic and or crawl space to the drops to facilitate new unknown cables?

+1

Joe

[BattleZone]

Given the relatively small cost difference, I recommend running CAT6 for all twisted pair wiring. No reason to use CAT5e anymore. As someone else mentioned, the cost isn't the cable, it's the installation and termination. You can run CAT6 and use CAT5e jacks for non-critical runs.

[TheRatPatrol]

I'd go 4 and 4, 4 coax and 4 CAT6, you just never know whats going to happen in the future. Or run conduit for future runs.

BTW, whats the big difference between CAT5e and CAT6?

[harsh]

CAT6 has a special "longitudinal spacer" (a cross-shaped filament) in it to maintain the consistent distancing between pairs. It is larger and not just a little more expensive. Also, fitting CAT6 cable into CAT5 connectors can be a bit of a battle.

[carl6]

CAT6 has a special "longitudinal spacer" (a cross-shaped filament) in it to maintain the consistent distancing between pairs. It is larger and not just a little more expensive. Also, fitting CAT6 cable into CAT5 connectors can be a bit of a battle.

There are other differences also, including tighter twist.

But all that boils down to the ability of Cat6 to carry higher speed/wider bandwidth signals than Cat5e. In todays world, with available home/consumer technology, Cat5e will handle as fast a network as you can probably set up. In tomorrow's world. eventually you will want the higher capability. That might be years (as opposed to months) in the future.

Having said that, I recently ran new cat5e throughout my house. Decided Cat6 wasn't worth the effort or cost, relative to my requirements.

[hdtvfan0001]

One other option to consider.

If there is a room where you may think you'll add new/additional runs of wiring/cabling in the future...you might want to have the current planned runs inside of PVC in the wall, along with a pull line, so that adding another wire/cable is simple and painless.

I did that in 2 places when finishing our lower level, and it eliminated tearing up drywall later on...

[boxster99t]

To me, chasing how many runs of cable you want per room is a losing battle. 20 years ago, who knew one good run of cable to each outside wall where you might want a TV would not be enough?

I would look into a Home Run set up--centrally locate all receivers, AV equipment, routers, ect...and distribute by CAT6 throughout the house; and put in conduit with pull wires for any wall that cannot be fished post construction, in case you guess wrong. I'd want two runs of Cat5/6 to every room in the house, and more for rooms that will be entertainment/internet/network centers.

My personal retirement home building plans include HDMI over Cat5/6, in-wall speakers, so that all you ever see in a room are furniture, speakers and a display. The equipment is hidden behind either a fake wall or a central room. And whole home surge protection is a must.

The trouble is finding someone who really knows what they're doing vs. those who say they do, as you have all probably read the horror stories where the wiring person ran miles of cat 5/6 and then did stupid things like bundle it all together with zip ties, had too many runs with tight corners, ect...