Tricks/Tools for compression fittings

[CJTE]

So, I've done about 20 compression fittings over the last 2 days (probably 15 one day and 5 another).

My fingers have been rubbed raw. Specifically my thumb and index from pushing and twisting on the connector.

I shave about 1/4" off the di-electric and another 1/4" off the sleeve and then the other 1/2" is sleeved. By the time I get 1/6th of the way down the sleeve it becomes very hard to slide the fitting on.

I couldn't imagine doing this everyday without either building calluses on my fingertips and/or finding a better way.
One thing I considered was heat but I cant get the right amount of control from my lighter to make that effective. (Most of the trials resulted in the cable getting too hot and bunching up, thereby making it near impossible to get the fitting on).

[davring]

I had the same problem until I realized I was using the wrong terminal. Easy mistake to make.

[woodybeetle]

If your term shave means to apply a knife or razor blade to the cable in hopes of creating a suitable mating surface for a compression fitting, that may be your problem. Home depot or lowes both sell a rg6 stripper designed to do the job correctly for about 10 bucks. In no way should 15 fittings make your hands sore. We regularly install 400 to 500 a day per man and have no problems, the right tools make the job easy

[TBlazer07]

I had the same problem until I realized I was using the wrong CABLE. Easy mistake to make. :)

[BattleZone]

Here's a good instruction page, though there are a few things that are outdated.

http://www.hometech.com/learn/coaxterm.html

The most important thing is that you have prepared your cable as such:

http://www.hometech.com/learn/cx3.jpg

1/4" of the center conductor is bare, and then 1/4" of the outer jacket is removed (as mentioned earlier, you want a proper stripper tool to do this). The shield braid is then pulled back against the jacket, while the foil is left in place. The shield braid is NOT cut off and not left forward, because there is a metal tube inside the connector that has to slip down between the shield braid and the foil jacket. If the jacket isn't pulled back, the braid will bind up and the connector just won't fit.

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PPC-EX1.jpg

Also, it is very important that you use an RG6-sized connector on RG6, and an RG59-sized connector on RG59, which are two common sizes of TV coax cable. RG59 is thinner, and was commonly used to wire up homes for "cable" from the 70's up until about 1990 in most places. Since then, RG6 has more or less been the standard, though I still run into the occasional house where a contractor inexplicably used RG59.

There is also a difference in sub-types of RG6. The most common RG6, and what DirecTV uses, is called Dual Shield, meaning it has one layer of foil shield and one layer of shield braid. There is also Tri-Shield and Quad-Shield (QS), which add a second layer of shield braid and foil respectively. QS is noticably thicker and stiffer, and with most brands/models of connectors requires a specific QS connector in order to have enough room for the cable to fit into the connector. The connectors used by DirecTV, the PPC brand "EX6-XL" model, are designed to be "universal", meaning they'll work on any RG6. When stripping QS, you need to cut off the outer two layers of shield, leaving one layer of shield braid and the inner foil, then pull back the shield braid as normal. QS is definitely more difficult to install connectors on.

[barryb]

One of these strippers are indispensable. You can find a similar item at Home Depot:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Install/HY-332-Cable-Stripper.htm

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Install/HY-332%20(1).jpg

[barryb]

For compression tools:

This will work:
http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/JVI/10-CCT21.htm

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/JVI-10-CCT21-21mm-UNIVERSAL-COMPRESSION-TOOL.jpg

Those who do this for a living are more likely to choose something like this (as it's more comfortable on your hand):

http://www.kleinconnection.com/KleinConnection/images/vdv212-009_icon.jpg

[ffemtreed]

I don't do connectors very often but I had a lot of trouble with fingers cramping and such. I got a flaring tool and it helped a LOT to get those connectors on. The pro's that do these connectors day in and day out can get away without having to flare, but for the people who only do a couple a year or month......

[rudeney]

I have an Ideal compression tool (see below) and the stripper that Barry posted aboot. I strip the coax, place the fitting in the tool, insert the coax and push until it stops, then compress it. Easy!

http://ideal.datacomtools.com/images/ideal/crimptools/coax/larger/30-633.jpg

[carl6]

Use one of the strippers people have shown above, and make sure you have the correct fittings for the coax you are using. Quad shield is larger than regular RG6, and if you are trying to put regular connectors on quad shield, you will have lots of trouble.

[joe diamond]

For working in the cold....assemble the dish & as many fittings as possible in a heated area. The cable ends for the dish can be stuffed up the exhaust pipe of a running truck to soften them (a little).

And I have a lighter that say "gitt'r done!" for that added professional touch.

Don't forget the cable grease (dielectric lube) and boots!

Joe

[CJTE]

The most important thing is that you have prepared your cable as such:
http://www.hometech.com/learn/cx3.jpg

1/4" of the center conductor is bare, and then 1/4" of the outer jacket is removed (as mentioned earlier, you want a proper stripper tool to do this). The shield braid is then pulled back against the jacket, while the foil is left in place. The shield braid is NOT cut off and not left forward, because there is a metal tube inside the connector that has to slip down between the shield braid and the foil jacket. If the jacket isn't pulled back, the braid will bind up and the connector just won't fit.

That's basically what I'm doing. I bare a bit more than the standard 1/4" and I'm using a propper stripper (I'll link to it at the end for reference). I completely understand pulling the braid back, which I have done, and I leave the foil in place.


Also, it is very important that you use an RG6-sized connector on RG6, and an RG59-sized connector on RG59, which are two common sizes of TV coax cable. RG59 is thinner, and was commonly used to wire up homes for "cable" from the 70's up until about 1990 in most places. Since then, RG6 has more or less been the standard, though I still run into the occasional house where a contractor inexplicably used RG59.

I'm definitely using RG6, I'm almost positive it is NOT quad but I'll double check in a few minutes. And the compression fittings I am using are the same fittings the techs in my area use on the perfect vision cables.


There is also a difference in sub-types of RG6. The most common RG6, and what DirecTV uses, is called Dual Shield, meaning it has one layer of foil shield and one layer of shield braid. There is also Tri-Shield and Quad-Shield (QS), which add a second layer of shield braid and foil respectively. QS is noticably thicker and stiffer, and with most brands/models of connectors requires a specific QS connector in order to have enough room for the cable to fit into the connector. The connectors used by DirecTV, the PPC brand "EX6-XL" model, are designed to be "universal", meaning they'll work on any RG6. When stripping QS, you need to cut off the outer two layers of shield, leaving one layer of shield braid and the inner foil, then pull back the shield braid as normal. QS is definitely more difficult to install connectors on.
I'm almost positive I'm using Dual Shield. 1 layer of braid and 1 layer of foil.

I have an Ideal compression tool (see below) and the stripper that Barry posted aboot. I strip the coax, place the fitting in the tool, insert the coax and push until it stops, then compress it. Easy!

http://ideal.datacomtools.com/images/ideal/crimptools/coax/larger/30-633.jpg
That's essentially the compression tool I have.

The cable I'm using is labeled RG6/U 18AWG 3.0 GHZ BC TYPE CMR
From DeepSurplus (http://www.deepsurplus.com/Network-Structured-Wiring/Bulk-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-CATV-Solid-Copper/1000ft-RG6U-60-Shielded-Solid-Copper-Coax-Cable-WT)

The tools I'm using came in a kit by DataShark (Paladin Tools) (http://datasharktools.com/view_tool.php?id=558), except for the compression fittings, after I used the 10 in the kit I broke out the standard DirecTV fittings.

[CJTE]

I have an Ideal compression tool (see below) and the stripper that Barry posted aboot. I strip the coax, place the fitting in the tool, insert the coax and push until it stops, then compress it. Easy!


Just tried that method with sad results. I had to force the the cable into the fitting and even then it didnt go all the way in. Just for the sake of it I tried compressing it even though the plastic sleeve around the dilectric wasn't all the way to the top of the fitting.
It compressed but didnt stay on the cable (I twisted it right off) and then found out it also ripped the foil.

The fittings I'm using are labeled PPC CMP6.

[TBlazer07]

The fittings I'm using are labeled PPC CMP6.

What kind of CABLE are you using? Something is not right, it's either the wrong cable for the connector or the wrong connector for the cable. With the right tools, cable and connectors "it's so easy even a caveman can do it." (Sorry Geico). I use the Snap-N-Seal IT1000 (got it for $35 used off eBay with about 500 connectors). It automatically strips to spec as well. http://technicalconnectionsinc.stores.yahoo.net/thbeitsnnses.html .

[BattleZone]

Another thing to check is that the foil and white dielectric foam are round and not distorted. Twisting or rolling the foil between your fingers should round it out if it isn't. It needs to fit smoothly into the tube of the connector.

And definitely put the connector on the cable by hand. It is very important that the dielectric foam is flush with the bottom of the threaded connector cup (see earlier pics).

If you're having problems, it may just be the cable itself. As any installer will tell you, some brands of cable are significantly more difficult to work with than others, and even a "good brand" will occasionally have a batch that's more difficult. Finally, the cable is much easier to work with if it's warm than if it's cold, because the jacket and the shield braid have to stretch to accept the fitting.

Otherwise, practice, practice, practice. When I train a new tech, I take some scrap cable and cut about 10 foot-long lengths and have him strip and put fittings on both ends (I don't have them compress the fittings; no need to waste them). After doing 20 or so, you start to get a technique for doing them.

[ffemtreed]

another thing you want to make sure of is when you cut the cable make sure your cutters aren't squishing the end of the cable. I had that problem at first before I broke down and bought a good set of pliers to cleanly cut the coax.

[CJTE]

What kind of CABLE are you using? Something is not right, it's either the wrong cable for the connector or the wrong connector for the cable. With the right tools, cable and connectors "it's so easy even a caveman can do it." (Sorry Geico). I use the Snap-N-Seal IT1000 (got it for $35 used off eBay with about 500 connectors). It automatically strips to spec as well. http://technicalconnectionsinc.stores.yahoo.net/thbeitsnnses.html .

As posted:

The cable I'm using is labeled RG6/U 18AWG 3.0 GHZ BC TYPE CMR
From DeepSurplus (http://www.deepsurplus.com/Network-Structured-Wiring/Bulk-RG6-Coaxial-Cable-CATV-Solid-Copper/1000ft-RG6U-60-Shielded-Solid-Copper-Coax-Cable-WT)

[doctor j]

CJTE:
I feel your pain.
I've tried multiple strippers/compression fittings/compression tools/cable types and found great variability.

I have also used :
Flaring tools :http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4910-SealTite-Compression-Flaring/dp/B0009G6RXY

and a Tee female F connector to get a better grip:
https://www.theelectricaltoolstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=183

Bottom line is that some cable/connector combinations are just tight!
I use a lot of Belden cable esp 1694. It's great cable but the compression fitting just take a lot of force.

I've used some generic cable from Loews or Home Depot and the fitting slide on like butter. I've even pushed the dielectric out the end of the fitting!
If you are just looking for the easiest to put on try some other cable, Loews or Home Depot usually have some that glide on. I,for one, want the "best" spec'ed cable and put up with the calloused and blistered fingers after a 12 to 20 wire project!:):):)

doctor j

[AntAltMike]

Another thing to check is that the foil and white dielectric foam are round and not distorted. Twisting or rolling the foil between your fingers should round it out if it isn't. It needs to fit smoothly into the tube of the connector...

That's very important advice.

You might also try pinching the side of the jacket to stretch it slightly to give your connector's inner sleeve some more room.

And when you have to muscle one on, it is best to put the connector in a 7/16" nut driver.

[davejacobson]

just get a good coax stripper like has been mentioned and it should do the trick.I use one like that sandoun and never have much of a problem. Yesterday in was -10F did aprox 12 connections outside with no troubles.I only have trouble when I try to use just a knife

[ndole]

Practice Practice Practice..
I've got calluses on top of calluses. In the winter time, wearing jersey gloves eases the strain on your fingers. Otherwise, if I've got a tough cable, I'll usually press the nut-end against a piece of fabric like my shirt. That gives you more leverage on the cable, and gives the conductor somewhere to go besides through your finger.

[CJTE]

just get a good coax stripper like has been mentioned and it should do the trick.I use one like that sandoun and never have much of a problem. Yesterday in was -10F did aprox 12 connections outside with no troubles.I only have trouble when I try to use just a knife

I have decent tools... Its a matter of the fittings not fitting on the cable... Almost wonder if I should get quad fittings or if they would be too big and just slide off...

[RobertE]

This may sound tedious, but can you post pics of each step as you prep the cable up to the point when you are ready to compress the fitting? Maybe we can see something subtle that you are missing.

[CJTE]

This may sound tedious, but can you post pics of each step as you prep the cable up to the point when you are ready to compress the fitting? Maybe we can see something subtle that you are missing.

I will absolutely do that. I actually starting taking pictures of the coax post-stripped yesterday but 1) I broke my cameras viewfinder yesterday morning and 2) I was drunk and tired so I went to bed instead.

Expect pictures later today.

[RobertE]

I will absolutely do that. I actually starting taking pictures of the coax post-stripped yesterday but 1) I broke my cameras viewfinder yesterday morning and 2) I was drunk and tired so I went to bed instead.

Expect pictures later today.

:lol::lol::lol:

Maybe try a few connectors before the beers?

:goodjob:

[DF Wavelength]

If you're using quad shielded cable, its worth buying the quad fittings.

Some of the photos that were posted in this thread showed how the braid needs to be peeled back around the jacket. Its important that the inner ring of the fitting slides in between the braid & the foil around the dielectric. If the foil or the braid gets caught, they will just bunch up keep the fitting from sliding on.

On Plenum-rated/Teflon cable, sometimes it helps to warm it up a little with a cigarette lighter. Just do it for a few seconds, and keep the flame moving so it doesn't sit in one spot. You don't want to burn or melt anything, but the fittings usually slip right on.

[Herdfan]

So, I've done about 20 compression fittings over the last 2 days (probably 15 one day and 5 another).

My fingers have been rubbed raw. Specifically my thumb and index from pushing and twisting on the connector.

I couldn't imagine doing this everyday without either building calluses on my fingertips and/or finding a better way.

Get better cable. I could do SnS fittings on Belden cable all day long. A couple on cheap cable and I'm done.

[CJTE]

Get better cable. I could do SnS fittings on Belden cable all day long. A couple on cheap cable and I'm done.

Well, I've still got 500ft of cable left (in the box). Ive got 8 more fittings to do (damn drywallers pierced one of my cables), then I'm done.

Seeing as that I've already paid for what Ive got I'm going to use it til I run out but I suppose from now on I'll be buying perfectvision. I just got laid off so now I *really* can't afford quality cable haha.

[rudeney]

Like I said, I'm using the Ideal compression tool I bought at Home Depot, and a jar of Ideal fittings I bought there, too. I usually buy my stuff online or from a local pro shop, but the day I needed this, it was just faster to go to Home Depot. I have no clue where I got the cable, probably my local pro shop. It is very easy to push the cable into the connector and it stops at just the right spot. That's the way it should be. If not, then it's likely a mismatch between the cable and the fitting.

The only problems I've had is when the stripper doesn't work right and either mashes the insulator or leaves some shielding. This is usually due to a piece of shielding getting caught in the blades. Oh, and after about 100 fittings, the compression tool broke (one of the studs that the return spring is slipped to). I fixed it with a bolt.

[CJTE]

Found what I was looking for...

Started looking around at the mm socket set in the garage. Didnt have one small enough to put into F connector (I imagine that's what the flaring tool is for?), so instead I grabbed an 11mm, stuck it on an extension, and pushed the connector on. Worked well, until it hit the dielectric. So I went back to the garage and grabbed an 11mm deep dish. This also worked well... Up until the fitting when 3/4 of the way into the deep dish and I was unable to remove the socket from the fitting. Whoops.

So, I crudely jammed a screwdriver against the inside of the fitting while I pulled the 11mm deep dish out. I did multiple stabs to try and do as much damage to the dielectric as possible but unfortunately I was unsuccessful.

Ive got braid sticking out below the compressed plastic of the fittings. Any reason I cant cut the *EXCESS* braiding off?

[CJTE]

I will absolutely do that. I actually starting taking pictures of the coax post-stripped yesterday but 1) I broke my cameras viewfinder yesterday morning and 2) I was drunk and tired so I went to bed instead.

Expect pictures later today.
:lol::lol::lol:

Maybe try a few connectors before the beers?

:goodjob:

I generally do my connectors and terminations sober. It helps make sure I do them correctly and I don't have to waste time coming back. I don't mind having a few doing RJ45 because I've literally done them in my sleep so... NBD!

I finally found my "new" camera. If I'dve known I would be keeping it and not be reimbursed for it I think I wouldve gone with a bit better model, BUT, none-the-less... I'm now obsessed on figuring out how to disable the date/time stamp so I refuse to take any pictures with it.

[CJTE]

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6587/rg6termination1.th.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination1.jpg/)
In red is the cable I tried just shoving a connector on and compressing... No real thought process involved, it'd be cool if it worked though. Instead I wasted a connector and peeled some of the foil. So, here we are on a second try with a fresh cut!
In blue is the excess braid I was referring to earlier.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/909/rg6termination2.th.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination2.jpg/)
Stripping the outer jacket.

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1135/rg6termination3.th.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination3.jpg/)
Post-strip.

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4764/rg6termination4.th.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination4.jpg/)
Pull the braid back around the outer jacket, leaving the foil, and the inner plastic jacket around the dielectric, as well as the dielectric itself.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/2339/rg6termination6.th.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination6.jpg/)
Stripping to the dielectric

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/9683/rg6termination7.th.jpg (http://img51.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination7.jpg/)http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/8986/rg6termination11q.th.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/rg6termination11q.jpg/)
Photos don't do it any justice, but unlike every other fitting I've done so far, I didn't strive to make sure the plastic tubing around the dielectric was flush with the hole on the fitting. Its probably recessed 2-3mm. The fitting is snug though which is my biggest concern.


EDITS:
Word correction, link replacement from incorrect pictures.

[ffemtreed]

strip right at the end of the cable. Not back a like you are doing.

[RobertE]

Your pictures speak volumes. Your doing all wrong.

With the way you are doing it, you are stripping off far too much of the jacket. The connector then has nothing to grip onto when you compress it, so it pulls right off.

You want to strip just the very end of the cable. A properly prepped cable should only have 1/4 inch of conductor exposed, then another 1/4 inch of dielectric exposed. No more, no less. Your cable when properly prepped needs to look like the first pic in post #5.

[CJTE]

So i'm stripping too much. Thats fine. My compression fittings are definetly gripping the outer jacket though. Them f'ers won't budge (once I spend 10 minutes pushing them down hahaha).

I'm getting plagued with SFSS on tuner 2 throughout the DVRs in my house. I swap cabled and still Tuner 2. Ughh.

[ffemtreed]

So i'm stripping too much. Thats fine. My compression fittings are definetly gripping the outer jacket though. Them f'ers won't budge (once I spend 10 minutes pushing them down hahaha).

I'm getting plagued with SFSS on tuner 2 throughout the DVRs in my house. I swap cabled and still Tuner 2. Ughh.

The reason you are having so much trouble pushing connectors on is because of all that extra braid material. It is getting bunched up and caught in the connector.

[Beerstalker]

Part of your problem is that stripper tool. I had that same one and it sucked (I was using Perfect Vision RG6Quad and Perfect Vision Quad connectors and was having trouble getting the connectors on). I went out and bought a stripper tool like in post #6 and it works 1000x better, now it's easy as can be to put the connectors on. The hardest part is peeling back the 2 sets of braid on the quad shield (I always manage to stick the braid under my fingernails and it stings pretty good).

[CJTE]

Part of your problem is that stripper tool. I had that same one and it sucked (I was using Perfect Vision RG6Quad and Perfect Vision Quad connectors and was having trouble getting the connectors on). I went out and bought a stripper tool like in post #6 and it works 1000x better, now it's easy as can be to put the connectors on. The hardest part is peeling back the 2 sets of braid on the quad shield (I always manage to stick the braid under my fingernails and it stings pretty good).

Ive got a straightened paperclip on my key ring...
That shtuff hurts mayann.

[CJTE]

The reason you are having so much trouble pushing connectors on is because of all that extra braid material. It is getting bunched up and caught in the connector.

So is it worth running around and cutting off all the fittings I have? I have very little slack in the lines (expected to mount the gangboxes a bit higher off the ground) so I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.

[Johnnie5000]

I don't know why no one else has mentioned this handy dandy tool yet.http://sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/1927_Flaring_Tool_small.jpgIt's the absolutely most used tool in my pouch and unlike other cats on here, I do this for a living.
If the connectors aren't going on smoothly, they're getting hung on the pvc jacket, as the inner metal tube (the one that goes between the braid/foil and pvc) on the connector is not going inside the pvc. Use the flaring tool to flare out the pvc so the connector goes on quick and easy.
They're $9 at Sadoun (http://sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Paladin/1927-Paladin-RG6-CATV-Flaring-Insertion-Tool.htm) and $12 at Tech Tool Supply (http://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SKY25225).

I've never had a connector not go on because of too much braid... ever. Twist it back over the outside of the cable (away from the cut end) and it will not cause an issue.

[ffemtreed]

So is it worth running around and cutting off all the fittings I have? I have very little slack in the lines (expected to mount the gangboxes a bit higher off the ground) so I'd like to avoid that if at all possible.

if the ends are already one its not worth redoing them.

[ffemtreed]

I don't know why no one else has mentioned this handy dandy tool yet.http://sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/1927_Flaring_Tool_small.jpgIt's the absolutely most used tool in my pouch and unlike other cats on here, I do this for a living.
If the connectors aren't going on smoothly, they're getting hung on the pvc jacket, as the inner metal tube (the one that goes between the braid/foil and pvc) on the connector is not going inside the pvc. Use the flaring tool to flare out the pvc so the connector goes on quick and easy.
They're $9 at Sadoun (http://sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Paladin/1927-Paladin-RG6-CATV-Flaring-Insertion-Tool.htm) and $12 at Tech Tool Supply (http://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SKY25225).

I've never had a connector not go on because of too much braid... ever. Twist it back over the outside of the cable (away from the cut end) and it will not cause an issue.


See Post #8 in this thread.

[kucharsk]

I don't know why no one else has mentioned this handy dandy tool yet.http://sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/1927_Flaring_Tool_small.jpgIt's the absolutely most used tool in my pouch and unlike other cats on here, I do this for a living.


I tried a flaring tool with Belden 7916A RG6 QS and it would always make the connector impossible to put on, where it went on smooth as butter if I folded the braid over by hand.

I also think it depends on the connector you're using; I've found the approved PPC EX6XL connectors go on much easier than the Snap-N-Seal RG-6-QS, which I always had to fight with…

[CJTE]

http://www.hometech.com/learn/cx3.jpg


Tried duplicating that tonight (Cut the sleeve 1/2", then folded the braid back and cut the foil 1/4"). Results were disasterous. Made 3 attempts. The outer sleeve started to bunch up around the bottom of the fitting making it impossible to slide down and also caused the cable to bend in my hand. During one attempt a fitting actually broke (the compression plastic departed from the metal housing). It was a mess. On that same attempt after pulling the fitting off I found that it had begun to strip the outer jacket (where it was being bunched up). The dielectric being so short never had a chance of making it through the fitting, had to cut it off and start over again. At the end of the day, I went back to my method. It may not be entirely correct, but atleast I get moderately decent results. I beleive that the prolem has to do with the plastic beneath the foil being a bit larger diameter than the hole it's being pushed into. Then it hits the braid and im trying to shove the inner ring between the braid and the foil under the outer jacket. I may pickup a small pack of quad shield fittings just to see. I thing the diameter of those fittings is going to be a bit too large and not be able to fit between the braid and the foil under the jacket.

[rudeney]

Why is the braid pulled back like that? When I strip coax (I use the gray tool that Barry posted a picture of), I have no braid visible at all. The inner wall of the fitting goes between the center insulator and the braid and foil to make the ground connection. I would think all that braid would make it very hard to get the fitting over the cable.

[BattleZone]

Why is the braid pulled back like that? When I strip coax (I use the gray tool that Barry posted a picture of), I have no braid visible at all. The inner wall of the fitting goes between the center insulator and the braid and foil to make the ground connection. I would think all that braid would make it very hard to get the fitting over the cable.

Your tool is adjusted incorrectly and is cutting off the shield braid. You should adjust the blade depth until it cuts through the PVC jacket but not into the shield braid.

The picture shows the correct way to prep the cable. This can be easily verified with any connector manufacturer. If you look at the PPC EX6 cutaway pic I posted, you can see the shield braid has been pulled back over the jacket.

[JimInNJ]

Tried duplicating that tonight (Cut the sleeve 1/2", then folded the braid back and cut the foil 1/4"). Results were disasterous. Made 3 attempts. The outer sleeve started to bunch up around the bottom of the fitting making it impossible to slide down and also caused the cable to bend in my hand. During one attempt a fitting actually broke (the compression plastic departed from the metal housing). It was a mess. On that same attempt after pulling the fitting off I found that it had begun to strip the outer jacket (where it was being bunched up). The dielectric being so short never had a chance of making it through the fitting, had to cut it off and start over again. At the end of the day, I went back to my method. It may not be entirely correct, but atleast I get moderately decent results. I beleive that the prolem has to do with the plastic beneath the foil being a bit larger diameter than the hole it's being pushed into. Then it hits the braid and im trying to shove the inner ring between the braid and the foil under the outer jacket. I may pickup a small pack of quad shield fittings just to see. I thing the diameter of those fittings is going to be a bit too large and not be able to fit between the braid and the foil under the jacket.

You do realise that the foil should go INSIDE the center tube of the connector, and the braid goes on the OUTSIDE of the center tube, right? It looks like you're pushing the foil down into the jacket, instead of letting it slide up inside. You need to make sure that the foil is laying flat against the dielectric before you try to push the connector on. If the foil won't fit inside, you probably don't have the right connector.

Good luck!

[rudeney]

Your tool is adjusted incorrectly and is cutting off the shield braid. You should adjust the blade depth until it cuts through the PVC jacket but not into the shield braid.

The picture shows the correct way to prep the cable. This can be easily verified with any connector manufacturer. If you look at the PPC EX6 cutaway pic I posted, you can see the shield braid has been pulled back over the jacket.

I guess my cutter could be incorrectly adjusted, but I've made literally hundreds of connections this way. Looking at how the connector slips into the cable with it's center coaxial tube going in between the shield and jacket, I don't see that it makes much of a difference. I mean, if I were launching a manned rocket into space, yeah, I might worry about it, but it's just TV.

[CJTE]

You do realise that the foil should go INSIDE the center tube of the connector, and the braid goes on the OUTSIDE of the center tube, right? It looks like you're pushing the foil down into the jacket, instead of letting it slide up inside. You need to make sure that the foil is laying flat against the dielectric before you try to push the connector on. If the foil won't fit inside, you probably don't have the right connector.

Good luck!

Yes.

There is the dielectric, then a plastic tube, then the foil, then the braid, then the outer jacket.

The dielectric, plastic tube, and foil, go inside the the tube in the fitting. The tube is then slid down between the foil, and the braid/outer jacket.
I understand how the system is supposed to work. It seems as though the diameter of the tube within the fitting is just a few nanometers smaller than the plastic tube and foil.
About half the fittings I have done have slid on like butter, until they hit the bottom of the foil, where it meets the foil and outer jacket. From there, It's usually a lot of twist and push to get the fitting over the rest of the cable.

When I tried to keep the dielectric and the exposed foil short (1/4" each), the fitting refused to slide down the cable, in such a manor that the cable actually bent and eventually bunched up around the bottom of the fitting in one case.

[2dogz]

About half the fittings I have done have slid on like butter, until they hit the bottom of the foil, where it meets the foil and outer jacket. From there, It's usually a lot of twist and push to get the fitting over the rest of the cable.

Dude, what people are trying to tell you is that you need a flaring tool. Some brands of cable have very tight outside casing, others don't. Some are easy but others you need the tool to stretch the casing to install the connector.

Get the tool (pictures and links provided above) or change your brand of cable.

[CJTE]

Dude, what people are trying to tell you is that you need a flaring tool. Some brands of cable have very tight outside casing, others don't. Some are easy but others you need the tool to stretch the casing to install the connector.

Get the tool (pictures and links provided above) or change your brand of cable.

I was trying to find out what the flaring tool did exactly.

Right now I have less than 0 income but when I obtain an income I will be sure to purchase one.

THX.

[joe diamond]

Practice Practice Practice..+
...... That gives you more leverage on the cable, and gives the conductor somewhere to go besides through your finger.

That is why they call it a "stinger".

Joe

[eandras]

I was trying to find out what the flaring tool did exactly.

Right now I have less than 0 income but when I obtain an income I will be sure to purchase one.

THX.

Sorry about hearing the loss of your income (job). I had that problem in June and found a job and started working on 10/1.

Keep your chin up and just keep networking with people. Hopefully you will find something soon.

[samrs]

That cheap white cable is tough to work with, the electricians around here buy it to wire upscale new homes. They never put on connectors.
To make a flaring tool you can break one of your connectors apart. I use two pairs of pliers. You want the nut with the inner metall tube still attached and undamaged. Screw it on a spliter, diplexer or I use my pocket toner. Flare away.

[CJTE]

That cheap white cable is tough to work with, the electricians around here buy it to wire upscale new homes. They never put on connectors.
To make a flaring tool you can break one of your connectors apart. I use two pairs of pliers. You want the nut with the inner metall tube still attached and undamaged. Screw it on a spliter, diplexer or I use my pocket toner. Flare away.

I have quickly come to learn that the inner metal tube likes to scrape away at the foil instead of slide over it (and under the braid).
Thanks for the headsup on the DIY though.

And to the person prior, thankyou as well.

[kucharsk]

Dude, what people are trying to tell you is that you need a flaring tool. Some brands of cable have very tight outside casing, others don't. Some are easy but others you need the tool to stretch the casing to install the connector.

As I mentioned this depends on the cable and connector.

I tried using a flaring tool on 7916A and it made it impossible to get PPC EX6XLWS connectors onto the cable; the same connectors slid on like butter when the braid was folded back by hand.

[RunnerFL]

I'm not trying to thread-jack but I just have a quick question on the compression fittings themselves and since there are several pros in here I thought this would be a great place to ask. I hope you don't mind CJTE.

What is the difference between this connector:

http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?mc=09&p=CMP6&d=PPC-CMP6-RG6-Compression-Connector-%28Bag-of-50%29&c=F-Connectors&sku=

And this connector:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100605441/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The reason I ask is because all of my previous connections were done with the first connector, with the blue, which I bought at Home Depot and now all they carry is the second type, with the black. Can I use the same compression tool on the black ones as I did the blue ones? I'd hate to have to buy a new tool just because I can't wait for them to come from solidsignal.

[BattleZone]

Yes, you can use the same tool on both. They are just different brands/models of compression connectors.

IMO, the best connectors on the market (and I've used over 15 types) is the PPC EX6-XL.

[RunnerFL]

Yes, you can use the same tool on both. They are just different brands/models of compression connectors.

IMO, the best connectors on the market (and I've used over 15 types) is the PPC EX6-XL.

Thanks for the info!

[kucharsk]

A second recommendation for the PPC EX6-XL.

I've also been happy with the Snap-N-Seal SNS6 and SNS6QS, but the nice thing about the EX6-XL is it can be used for both regular and quad-shield RG-6 so you don't need to have two different connectors on hand. Other people also figured that one out, as T&B recently introduced their own connector for both regular and QS, the SNS1P6U. Time-Warner cable uses Snap-N-Seals for everything, while the only DirecTV-approved connector is the PPC EX6-XL.

Meanwhile, my local cable company seems to prefer Digicon DS6s, and the local DISH Network guys tend to use whichever of the three they have on the truck. :D

You can get any of these pretty inexpensively on FleaBay if you don't mind the shipping times.

[joe diamond]

A second recommendation for the PPC EX6-XL.

I've also been happy with the Snap-N-Seal SNS6 and SNS6QS, but the nice thing about the EX6-XL is it can be used for both regular and quad-shield RG-6 so you don't need to have two different connectors on hand

. . . .while the only DirecTV-approved connector is the PPC EX6-XL.

. . ..

I always wondered the source for "Directv approved". Who said it and when?

No fitting will work if not compressed correctly & I notice that while fixing HSP jobs the correct "approved" fitting was installed but not compressed.

Go figure,

Joe

[BattleZone]

I always wondered the source for "Directv approved". Who said it and when?

About 2 years ago, DirecTV sent out a Blast Facts to all HSPs that the PPC EX6-XL was being standardized as the only approved connector for DirecTV systems. Since then, this has been enforced by the QC process.

[joe diamond]

About 2 years ago, DirecTV sent out a Blast Facts to all HSPs that the PPC EX6-XL was being standardized as the only approved connector for DirecTV systems. Since then, this has been enforced by the QC process.

Thanks,
I thought it might be something like that. My most recent encounter with an HSP subcontractor had nothing about that in his contract. After I started working there was a memo on the office wall...about connecting phones. Then there was an "oh, by the way,,,you cant use those O ring & gel F fittings". There were others.

I wonder if the HSP dudes that check the jobs also compress the fittings for the recent hires? I have seen some evidence they are removing "F" fittings out there in "the Directv system"...much of which was the former CATV system.

Thanks,

Joe

[Floyd]

Tried duplicating that tonight (Cut the sleeve 1/2", then folded the braid back and cut the foil 1/4"). Results were disasterous. Made 3 attempts. The outer sleeve started to bunch up around the bottom of the fitting making it impossible to slide down and also caused the cable to bend in my hand.
This whole thread has been like someone has been sent to exasperate us.

You need to get a proper stripping tool....one that makes two cuts at the same time. The cut depth is adjustable on the standard tools, so you can make adjustments for slight variations in cable brands.
If I read the above procedure correctly, you are making the cuts with a single-blade cutter, and are doing it in reverse of what I would think would work. You would need to make the first cut 1/4" from the end of the cable...down to the center conductor(which you are calling the dielectric). The second cut would be at the 1/2" point, and would only cut through the outer pvc cover of the cable, which is then removed. You then fold back the shield and slide the fitting on. You can screw the fitting onto a splitter to give you a better grip on it.

[CJTE]

This whole thread has been like someone has been sent to exasperate us.

You need to get a proper stripping tool....

You're a bit late to the party. My problem is already solved. Ive got 2 plates that need to be screwed back into their respective gangbox's I've just been messing with other things. My WB616 is in place and everything is set.

All I have left is punching down the Cat6.

Pictures when it's done.

[wildbill129]

A second recommendation for the PPC EX6-XL.

Ditto....when I started reading this thread, I couldn't help but wonder what the issue was. I have put on hundreds of these connectors (purchased off of ebay and solid signal) without any issues. No sweat, no tore up fingers, easy as pie....

To the OP, I realize you are done with your project...but when money allows, buy the PPC EX6-XL...life will be so much easier......

[sadoun]

DataShark makes a good starter kit for the DIY installer:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/70018.gif (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Paladin/70018-DataShark-Compression-Crimp-Bundle.htm)

Their compression connectors are expensive. I like the PPC Ex6XL. Works all the time.

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PPC-EX6XL.jpg (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PPC-EX.htm)

The Perfect Vision PV6PV connector is another good one:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/PV6-PV.jpg (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PV6-PV-Compression-Connectors-RG6.htm)

[CJTE]

DataShark makes a good starter kit for the DIY installer:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/70018.gif (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Paladin/70018-DataShark-Compression-Crimp-Bundle.htm)

Thats the kit I have except that one is a little cheper because it doesn't come with the plastic carrying case.


Their compression connectors are expensive. I like the PPC Ex6XL. Works all the time.

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PPC-EX6XL.jpg (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PPC-EX.htm)

The Perfect Vision PV6PV connector is another good one:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Order/Install/PV6-PV.jpg (http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Perfect/PV6-PV-Compression-Connectors-RG6.htm)

Ive got a 50-pack of EX6XL's, and had a 50-pack of CMP6 (Now I've only got about 10 left of the latter becaused I used them for almost the entire install).

Please read what others have said before reviving an old thread. You haven't listed any new information that wasn't already covered.