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View Full Version : what does it mean to PEAK?


xcuter
05-12-10, 11:13 AM
also what is a plumb mast? i know these are probably silly questions.

sungam
05-12-10, 11:21 AM
Plumb = perfectly vertical

Peak = align for maximum (peak) signal strength

veryoldschool
05-12-10, 11:47 AM
Might as well add "dither" to this list.

xcuter
05-12-10, 05:49 PM
Might as well add "dither" to this list.
sure please explain!! thanks

veryoldschool
05-12-10, 06:08 PM
sure please explain!! thanks
"Dithering" is the method used to find the center of the beam.
While looking at the signal level you use the fine tuning adjustment so the level drops to "a value" and then turn it the other way, until it drops to this same "A value" and count the number of turns it took. Next you turn the adjuster halfway back [number of turns divided by 2].
This was you've found the center of the beam, since it's a bit "flat" and makes it hard to "peak" on the center.
If one simply adjusted for the max level, you don't know where "on the flat part" you really are, so you could be near the edge of it.
By moving it and finding the sides of the beam, you know where both edges are and splitting this distance will get you to the middle.

tkrandall
05-12-10, 07:35 PM
"Dithering" is the method used to find the center of the beam.
While looking at the signal level you use the fine tuning adjustment so the level drops to "a value" and then turn it the other way, until it drops to this same "A value" and count the number of turns it took. Next you turn the adjuster halfway back [number of turns divided by 2].
This was you've found the center of the beam, since it's a bit "flat" and makes it hard to "peak" on the center.
If one simply adjusted for the max level, you don't know where "on the flat part" you really are, so you could be near the edge of it.
By moving it and finding the sides of the beam, you know where both edges are and splitting this distance will get you to the middle.

Nicely done!

joe diamond
05-14-10, 02:28 PM
"Dithering" is the method used to find the center of the beam.
While looking at the signal level you use the fine tuning adjustment so the level drops to "a value" and then turn it the other way, until it drops to this same "A value" and count the number of turns it took. Next you turn the adjuster halfway back [number of turns divided by 2].
This was you've found the center of the beam, since it's a bit "flat" and makes it hard to "peak" on the center.
If one simply adjusted for the max level, you don't know where "on the flat part" you really are, so you could be near the edge of it.
By moving it and finding the sides of the beam, you know where both edges are and splitting this distance will get you to the middle.

Most succinct explanation I've seen!

Then there is... make sure the mast is "plumb." Set the tilt as exactly as you can. Set the elevation as exactly as you can. Peak the 101 and give a little (2 degrees) poosh west and you probably got'er.

Correctly tightening the bolts is important. Don't break 'em.

You can peak the az & el if you really want but 90s are good enough..... improving 92 to a 94 with an expensive but unfunded meter is not cheap.

Joe