Wiring a new house...need help

[seanrmc]

I'm purchasing a new house and need some help figuring out the wiring for it.

I plan on having a directivo and another standard receiver in the family room and then upgrading to the HD Directivo when it comes out. If I run dual cables to the room, I know it will work for the directivo, but can I simply use a multiswitch inside the house to accomodate both boxes? How would this work when the HD Directivo arrives (how do I incorporate the OTA signal input)?

Any input will be much appreciated. Thank you.

[retiredTech]

lots of different possibilities, switches, diplexers, ect

personally I would run a seperate OTA cable (for OTA antenna) besides your 2 DTV cables to each room,
(3 cables to each room location from a location "hub" (where you locate your switches,couplers,ect) then out to DTV dish and OTA antenna

[Jim Parker]

I would install 3/4" PVC conduit from a hub area to each location. This would allow you to make changes in the future. There's no telling what will be the standard communications cable in the next ten years. It could be optical fiber, cat 6, coax or wireless. Yeah I know "wireless" cable? :)

The cost of 100' or so of PVC is insignificant in the cost of a new house.

PS I'm an electrical engineer, and design buildings for a living. I'm doing this in some 6 plexes that I'm designing now.

[Tomsoundman]

Agree with Jim. If you run cable that may be obsolete, make provision for whatever the future holds with empty conduit. If it is all wireless, you can use the conduit for _______. (Insert joke here).

[dishrich]

If you can't go the conduit route, then at a minimum, I'd run at LEAST 5 coax runs to your family room. (preferably 6) If you figure, you'll end up using 4 right now for the dish signal to your 2 receivers, (2 dish signals f/the D-Tivo & 1 for the HD box, 1 for your off-air) You can use the 5th one to send signals BACK from your family room receivers to the rest of the house at your "network interface". (the main wiring point where all your coax runs will terminate) A 6th would be needed if you change out that standard HD receiver to an HD-Tivo later on, or one could come in handy, if maybe you wanted cable TV as well, or something else requiring coax. (at this rate for your purposes, you might want to even consider a 7th!)

Some people will argue that you can use diplexors for your off-air, but in the end, it is MUCH easier, cleaner & simpler to just use a totally separate coax run for your off-air signals & be done with it - the costs of good diplexors will be offset by the cost of an additional coax run.

DON'T forgot at least one & maybe 2 phone wire runs as well. (at least cat 3 & preferably cat 5)

Don't forget, it takes about the same amount of labor to pull 6 runs as it does 2, so THIS is the time to do it NOW, & actual cost of the additional coax is minimal - but DO make sure you use a quality coax & NOT the cheap stuff from the local hardware store or RatShack.

[Foxbat]

SmartHome sells flexible interduct in 1" and 2" diameters that would be easier to run than PVC pipe, plus has the cable pull already run inside. There may be cheaper places.

This way, if you need to run an extra RG6 or replace your CAT5 with CAT6/7/???, pull the old stuff out, pulling the new stuff behind.

[seanrmc]

Thanks for all the input...it's all very useful.

My problem at this point seems to be an inflexible builder...it's a 3 story, 4 bedroom townhouse I'm buying and they won't allow subcontracting. They say that because

They want $125 per run of wire!!! If this was per outlet, I'd be ok with it, but per wire, it adds up quickly.

I'm going to check on conduit or pvc, but I guarantee they won't like that much.

Thanks again.

[Paulcl]

seanrmc said: "...they won't allow subcontracting. They say that because They want $125 per run of wire!!!"

If it explicitely states such in your building contract then I would talk to your lawyer. If it doesn't they havn't a leg to stand on. You can withhold a payment, hehe. That'll change their mind pretty fast. You may even be able to take it a step further and simply kick them off the job and have another General Contractor pick it up. It all depends on the contract.

If your stuck between a rock and... you can always try talking to the owner of the company and try to show them that you can't afford their rates and find their tactics unreputable and will make that known to every single person you encounter considering building with them and have the time to write letters to.

It is always a good plan to have it written into the contract before the hole is dug.

[Tomsoundman]

Or you can go in the evenings and do it yourself after work.

[seanrmc]

I'm still in the argument phase with them and have yet to sign a contract.

I did ask if it could be explicitly "written out" of the contract because their main argument was that if I or a sub-contractor ran the wire, they would be held liable for it.

I will ask for a copy of the contract and check it out though... :nono2:

Yes...I just may have to make a "Midnight Run" and do it myself...hopefully they won't notice.

[Paulcl]

I'm still in the argument phase with them and have yet to sign a contract.

Excellent! What you need to do is bring a lawyer into this to reveiw and rewrite the contract with you and to give you advice. Be sure you are allowed to inspect the work in progress on a weekly basis.

I went through the building process early last year and it was a constant headache. With out a lawyer's advice and contract input I would have been screwed.

Remember, they are trying to sell you a product with a large profit for them. I am almost certain they will negotiate the contract.

Also, watch out for sub-division restrictions such as satellite dish size and number, fencing restrictions, etc. EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE so let your lawyer tell you what it all means and let the lawyer know what you want to be able to do during as well as after the construction.

Good Luck!!!