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View Full Version : Can multiswitch go outdoors?


Chardo
05-08-02, 01:14 PM
Can a regular multiswitch be placed outdoors underneath a soffit (where it's mostly protected from rain and sun)? Obviously, there are humidity and temperature swings, but those also exist in an attic.

I know there are weatherproof multiswitches, but the package I ordered comes with a standard one. It would make my total wiring job easier if I could locate the multiswitch outside.

Any experience?

nate_wendt
05-08-02, 01:25 PM
Yes, standard multi-switches will hold up in outdoor conitions, provided certain provisions are taken. generally i would advise that you place the switch indoors, and take a ' safe no matter what' stand, but if it is important to keep the wiring simple, then you can install the multi-switch outdoors. If it is indeed under and eve and out of the direct path of the weather, this will help. I would uses some sealer on each of the rg6 ends where they connect to the switch, after tightening the ends just past finger-tight with a wrench. Make sure the switch is solid, and it wouldn't hurt to add a few drip/ lighning loops, just in case. In any case, i wish you luck with your installation.

Neil Derryberry
05-08-02, 01:41 PM
Ground it properly, seal the connectors, install it where direct sunlight won't hit it... all good guidelines. You might even consider installing it on the back of your dish somehow to save on cabling.

Karl Foster
05-08-02, 01:53 PM
You can buy a waterproof multi-switch from www.minidishes.tv It is a 3X4 and costs $49.50. They are an EBay retailer, so here is the direct link to the item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=1350384129

Chardo
05-08-02, 02:12 PM
Thanks, Karl, but I will be using a 3x8 switch, so that waterproof one is no good.

My intended location is very well shielded from the weather. It will be about as dry as any outdoor location could be. The way my rooflines and soffits/eaves are positioned, it's almost impossible to get any rain or snow in this spot. I guess I'll go for it.

Steve Mehs
05-08-02, 03:01 PM
Ground it properly
uhhh...
seal the connectors
well...
install it where direct sunlight won't hit it
*cough* *cough*

Well Im 0 for 3

I have 2 SW21s that have been out there for years, never any problems. Great tips Neil, too bad Im a little late on doing them :(

nate_wendt
05-08-02, 05:47 PM
I have seen switches of every shape and size that have been outdoors for years without problems. Most will be able to handle the weather properly for who knows how long. The rest is just procautions, to make sure the switches stay happy for a long time

Mike500
05-10-02, 09:52 PM
Originally posted by Chardo
Thanks, Karl, but I will be using a 3x8 switch, so that waterproof one is no good.

My intended location is very well shielded from the weather. It will be about as dry as any outdoor location could be. The way my rooflines and soffits/eaves are positioned, it's almost impossible to get any rain or snow in this spot. I guess I'll go for it.

Multiswitches always are labeled, when looking at the label, with the input ports up and the outputs pointing down. This makes the usual first time or inexperienced installer think that that is the correct mounting position. Wrong!!!!!:( :mad: :mad:

The switches should be mounted with the connections horizontal or with the label sideways. The coax should have drip loops slanting slightly down and away from the switch. This way, water or condensation does not trickle into the connectors and invade the internal working of the switch.

I do a lot of service calls on switches and connectors. Almost always, the grounding block or the switch is mounted incorrectly. I've found SW21 have been problematic in this manner. I prefer weatherproof boxes or mounting switches inside.

Extra insurance can be had by using a good environmentally connector like Snap-N-Seal, PPC or Gilbert. You can also fill the connectors with 100% non-hardening silicone grease. It is sold as "tune-up grease" at auto parts stores for about $3 a tube. I been using these techniques since the days of c-band for 20 years and 6 years on dbs systems. I do not get calls on bad connections on my installs, just those made by others. I got tired of service calls on pullouts for hex crimp connectors. That's why, I use only those I noted above or Digicon or FCON radial tapered connectors. You'd more likely break the cable before pulling them off.