Remote Controlled Lights

[Shappyss]

Has anyone had any experience with "X10" home automation. I was thinking of getting it to control the lights around the house.

Thinking of 15 wall switches
2 lamps
Computer Interface
Remote

i am a little confused on how the system knows what each light is. ..

if anyone knows anything about this... please let me know

[Sandman]

Each device has a house code and a device code, when you set the system up you identify them by their codes, location, device controlled, when you program via the computer interface you tell each specific device when to turn on, when to turn off, everyday, randomly, etc.

Bob

[HappyGoLucky]

Each device has a house code and a device code, when you set the system up you identify them by their codes, location, device controlled, when you program via the computer interface you tell each specific device when to turn on, when to turn off, everyday, randomly, etc.

Bob
Exactly. I've been using X10 for about 20 years now. I currently have about 10 light switches and about 5 light modules and a few appliance modules. I also have a couple of wireless remotes and a motion sensor to turn on the porch light. I'm still using one of the old computer interfaces (CP290) but it does what I want so I've not bothered to upgrade to the newer more advanced models. I've been using x10 so long I can't imagine living without it now.

[Bill R]

I also have been using X-10 for about 20 years. Except for the occasional glitch after a power outage I have found it to be very reliable. The only thing to be careful of is to use a house code that none of your neighbors (connected to the same power transformer) are using if they have X-10 devices.

[AllieVi]

Like "Happy," I've been using X-10 since the early 1980's and the benefits are great. The more you use them the more you'll want. My house looks lived-in even if no one is home because lights automatically come on and go off and I don't have to do anything. I can still use the lights/appliances manually without interrupting the automation.

There can be conflicts if your neighbors also use the system, but you simply have to agree to use different "house codes." When you do what's necessary to send an "on" signal to a light (for example), a digital signal is sent into your house AC wiring. It finds its way to all your wired areas and activates the switch you wanted to control. That switch sits there constantly monitoring the line waiting for its unique signal and then responds.

The signal also travels out through your electrical service panel to the transformer serving your house and a few of your neighbors. It then also goes to all those neighbors' houses. If they're also using X-10, you may be controlling each others' devices. Coordination of house codes solves the conflict.

One of the neatest things about X-10 is its "all lights on" feature. Say you're in bed in the middle of the night and hear a noise. You push a button on a controller and every X-10 light comes on (tends to scare off bad guys). You can also have them flash on and off to attract attention.

[Shappyss]

what the chances that I will need noise filters or signal amps?

the switches and stuff are not too expensive but when you have to add the extras to get it to work it starts to add up

[Bill R]

what the chances that I will need noise filters or signal amps?


You will have to put your X-10 devices in and give them a try. For most homes you will not need filters but I found that if you are using the RF control remotes (such as the HR-12A) you may need a RF signal repeater. It really depends on the layout (and construction) of your home and you will just have to try the system and see if you have any problems controling one or more devices.

[AllieVi]

what the chances that I will need noise filters or signal amps?
The ideal situation is to have the signal senders as electrically "close" to the devices you want to control as possible. If they're on the same branch circuit (i.e., the same breaker), you'll usually have no problem. The ideal is seldom reality, though.

The signal from the sender will probably have to travel back to the main electrical panel before it can get to another branch circuit that contains the device you want to control. Ideally, once again, the device will be on the same 110-volt "leg" of the 220 line coming to your house. If that's the case, the signal finds a relatively easy path.

If the device is on the other leg, the signal gets there by going the whole way to the transformaer in your neighborhood and then back to your house (and others' houses as I mentioned in another post). By the time it's gone all those places, its level is reduced a good bit, maybe too much to activate the device. You can install a simple inexpensive bridging capacitor (I forget the particular value) across the 220-volt lines in your electrical panel to give the signal an easier path, a stronger signal in your house and less interaction with your neighbors' systems. I'd consider an amplifier only after going the bridge route.

If the device you want to control is (electrically) nearest the breaker on its circuit, the signal wil be relatively strong. If the device is at the end of the circuit and other electrical items are "on", the signal will be diminished since some of it will pass through those things and less will be available at the end of the line.

I'd recommend that you occassionally snug (i.e., tighten a bit) the screw on your breakers to make sure the electrical connection is good, since slight amounts of resistance anywhere in the circuit easily diminish the signal strength.

Having said (fingered, actually) all these things, I've had little problem with my X-10 system.

[Shappyss]

thanks for your help. I will probably be ording the system soon. Any suggestions on where to buy it. So far ive only seen it at x10.com & smarthome.com

[AllieVi]

I haven't bought anything lately, but smarthome.com always seemed more pricey than x-10.com.

You'll also find X-10 stuff on many local retailers' shelves. They may be sold under other names, but you'll see them at Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, Sears and lots of other places. They all seem to work together just fine.

By the way, the computer interface item is really nice. It's what automates everything and the capabilities seem unlimited. It is programmed from your computer, but then works independently (i.e., not even connected to it).

One feature I really like is MACRO, making it possible to program a sequence of events. As a simple example, in my house the main bath is far from the water heater, so there's a pump that can circulate hot water. Letting the pump run continuously really adds to the water heating bill, so I use an X-10 appliance module to turn the pump on/off.

A macro I've programmed responds to pressing button #1. It turns on the module immediately and then turns it off 4 minutes later (that's how long it has to run so that I have hot water for the bath). Without the macro, I found that I'd forget to turn the pump off, but now I don't have to think about it.

[HappyGoLucky]

thanks for your help. I will probably be ording the system soon. Any suggestions on where to buy it. So far ive only seen it at x10.com & smarthome.com
The prices at x10.com seem to be the best I've found. Sometimes you can find some items on sale at places like Radio Shack or Lowe's (they go by different names, but you can usually see "x10" somewhere on the item and know it is compatible). X10.com also has some sales that can be really good.

I've only had a couple of problems with x10 devices. One problem was in an old house I lived in, the electrical system was ancient and there were lights and outlets that could only be controlled if the controller was plugged into certain other outlets, but then other devices wouldn't work. It was due to how the electric service was distributed in the breaker box. I had an electrician come rewire the breaker box and bring it up to code and that fixed that problem.

The second "problem" was when I tried to use one of those phone jack extensions that plugs into an electrical outlet. I discovered that the x10 controller signal on the electrical lines created a "hum" on the phone that is plugged into that extension. If I unplugged my wireless x10 receiver from the outlet, the "hum" on the phone was gone. I would rather have the x10 remotes, so I stopped using the "wireless" phone jack and just ran a new wired phone outlet.

[Nick]

Order directly from x10. They have bonuses, discounts and combo "deals" and such not avail. elsewhere. Also, sign up for email specials (buy 1 widget, get 10 free!)

Also, check out x10's "User" forum where you will find lots of clever and novel ideas for using various x10 products.

[SimpleSimon]

I also have had X-10 gear for many years. Motion detectors light my way around the house. Handheld remote for lighting controls - great for high-intensity halogens - built-in dimmers are great. Love being able to kill the forgotten lights after I'm in bed.

ALWAYS wait for the x10.com "deals". NEVER buy any of their stuff at anything approaching their "regular" price. Patience is a virtue. ;)

I've got piles of their stuff. Note that the security systems are not completely compatible with the regular switching stuff. It won't bother you at first, but you may find that there's some things you "should" be able to do, but can't.

This also applies to a few things like outdoor motion control floodlights. I wanted the motion detector to trigger a chime 24-hours a day, but only have the light come on after dusk. The basic unit won't do it (at least not the model I have), but a little creative wiring, unit number selection and an extra lamp unit did the trick. :)

[HappyGoLucky]

This also applies to a few things like outdoor motion control floodlights. I wanted the motion detector to trigger a chime 24-hours a day, but only have the light come on after dusk. The basic unit won't do it (at least not the model I have), but a little creative wiring, unit number selection and an extra lamp unit did the trick. :)
You could have used two motion detectors, leave one at the default 24hour mode and the other for dark-only. I just wish the detectors were easier to configure... those itty-bitty buttons and having to squint to see the little LED flashes... it always takes me several tries to get mine reconfigured when I change the battery.

[SimpleSimon]

HGL: Yes, I could've used a separate motion detector, but the little ones don't have the range of the ones on the floodlight unit.

Problem is, if you set "night plus motion" it affects all 4, and you can't do the split I wanted. I might have that backward, but the point is, the function I wanted isn't there.

Anyway, I disconnected the floodlight switched feed from the bulbs and put a module (I think I used a 2-prong appliance model) chassis inline (cascaded so to speak). The floodlight feed is now set to "night" and the module triggers on "motion". SO, the module chassis is offline during the day, but online at night and can then "see" motion commands. This lets me configure it so that "motion" is 24 hour (for the chime) without turning on the floodlights during the day. :)

And you're right - the little ones are a PITA to configure.