Cooling off the 622

[calgary2800]

Does anyone else cool the 622 the way I do? I just pulled the Entire ac plug off the wall surge protector and all. The 622 never really cools off even if you turn it off. I am doing this at night. I should be just fine right?

I've been doing this because I've had quite a few picture freezes and no signal last few days. My connections are fine.

[Steve H]

Unless you 622 is defective or you have it in a place where there is no air circulation your problems are probally caused by something else besides heat.

[Bill R]

DON'T unplug your 622 at night. It gets its guide information and performs other functions overnight. As far as the heat, yes, the 622 does get fairly warm. As long as you don't block its airflow or put it in a closed in equipment cabinet it should be fine. As Steve said, you could have some other problem. If it continues it have problems call tech support.

[calgary2800]

MY 622 has lost power twice this morning. Dish is going to send me another one.

I've had hd service less than 2 months and have had to replace both my 211 and 622 and replaced the lnbf or whatever you call it.

[lakebum431]

Hmm, sounds like you may have other issues. Something doesn't sound right here.

[Rovingbar]

Hmm, sounds like you may have other issues. Something doesn't sound right here.

That's for sure. If you've had problems with two receivers and the dish hardware... I think you had a bad installation. Maybe you have a grounding problem, or power surges.

Good luck sorting it out!

[Gramps]

I plugged a small watt meter into the wall outlet then plugged the 622 into the meter. It draws about 50w whether it's on or "off". Warm air always flowing out the left side is normal. The unit needs a few inches of space around it and the warm air needs an escape route. Be sure it's not too confined in your shelf or cabinet. I also raised mine off the shelf about 3/4 inch to improve circulation below it. Walmart or any hardware store sells (usually in a 2-pack) round rubber door stops. These are the kind that stick to the wall where the doorknob would strike. They are about 2" in diameter and have a rubber cup like affair that is about 1/2 " deep. In this application they don't need to be "stuck" to anything. Get 4, pull the line cord to let the disk stop spinning, then lift the receiver and slide them under it and you will notice that the existing feet on the receiver mate perfectly with the cup shaped opening. I watched the temp guages in the menu and after several days noted a decline in the average temperature of the receiver.

[Presence]

Put one of these underneath your 622. I have with both of mine, and it cools fantastic. It simply plugs into the USB jack in the back of the 622. They are on sale this week at Office Max for $19.

http://www.targus.com/us/product_images/PA248U_accessories_b.jpg

[calgary2800]

Thanks for the advice I am trying that right now. The 622 gets as hot as my plasma and we all know plasmas gets super hot at times.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a330/calgary2800/HPIM1035.jpg

[apco25]

Put one of these underneath your 622. I have with both of mine, and it cools fantastic. It simply plugs into the USB jack in the back of the 622. They are on sale this week at Office Max for $19.

http://www.targus.com/us/product_images/PA248U_accessories_b.jpg

Do you know what it's called, or a link to more info?

Also, how loud is it?

Thanks,
apco25

[Jim5506]

This is what I use. Standing vertically on the left side of the 622 to pull air out. It is designed to run 24/7 and with a 1 year warranty against workmanship defects. <29dB.

http://www.hometheatercooling.com/

[Presence]

Do you know what it's called, or a link to more info?

Also, how loud is it?

Thanks,
apco25

It is a Targus Notebook Chill Mat. They are not very loud at all. Plus I think they are more aesthetically pleasing than having a case fan mounted on the side. ;) I do have mine tucked more underneath than calgary2800 does, though.

[calgary2800]

The chill mat is working so far. Its been 12 plus hours and no freezes or outages. Prior to that I think I have 8 to 10 failures of the 622 in a 2 day period. Its makes a big difference just on feel alone at the bottom, the 622 now is much cooler.

[jeffnebraska]

The Chill Mat is an interesting option. Is it audible from ten feet away?

My 622 and my other gear are in an enclosed TV stand, but I have three fans like Jim's running inside. The only issue is, the fans are triggered by heat from my 7-channel amplifier, which means they only turn on when I watch TV or listen to music for a while.

If the 622 gets hot even when it's off, it's going to be hot quite a bit when the fans are not running. I could put the thermometer on the 622, but then it would run almost all the time and may not run when my amp needs it most.

[calgary2800]

I've had no issues with noise with the chill mat.

[Steve H]

I may be wrong on this but I think if you need to cool down the 622 either something is wrong with it or it is in a too confined place.

[Guitar1969]

The chill mat is working so far. Its been 12 plus hours and no freezes or outages. Prior to that I think I have 8 to 10 failures of the 622 in a 2 day period. Its makes a big difference just on feel alone at the bottom, the 622 now is much cooler.

If this unit plugs into the USB port, does it run when the 622 is turned off(Does power still go through the usb port). I am having a big problem with heat and need to consider this solution.

thanks,
mh

[Presence]

The 622's USB port is on full-time, so the cooling mat runs full-time.

[plainsman]

the chill mat is a great idea - I've been using a muffin fan just as described here and raised my 622 up 3/4" w/ a couple of strips of 1x2 ... lots of air pushed into the left side and underneath.

my first impression of the 622 is that it's undercooled. in a perfect world dish would overbuild the cooling but not this time.

[Guitar1969]

the chill mat is a great idea - I've been using a muffin fan just as described here and raised my 622 up 3/4" w/ a couple of strips of 1x2 ... lots of air pushed into the left side and underneath.

my first impression of the 622 is that it's undercooled. in a perfect world dish would overbuild the cooling but not this time.

I've only had the 622 for a week, but I am very disappointed in the amount of studdering/fragmenting of images thus far(Way more frequently than my DirecTv system(noyt HD) - I do have the 622 in a cabinet without good airflow and its hot, so I am hoping a cooling fan will help with my issues(As others have reported) - otherwise I will be calling Dish

[ChuckA]

otherwise I will be calling Dish

If you feel unhappy with the service, go ahead and call them now. I don't think heat is causing your problem. Call and let them know you expect more out of their service.

[PhantomOG]

looks like I'll need to buy a chill mat.

Last night watching TV while Heroes was being recorded, audio dropped out on all SD channels. Even SD recordings had no audio. All HD channels/recordings were fine. Really odd. I noticed the back left corner of the 622 was hot. Rebooted and everything was fine.

I'm just assuming it was a heat issue. My TV stand has glass doors in the front however the back is completely open. It seems sad to me that I need to go and purchase hardware to adequately cool a Dish receiver.

Cheapest I could find was Walmart.com for $16.

[62Lincoln]

I'm looking to use a chill mat, too. One question: what is the direction of the airflow through the 622? Is the air taken in from the bottom and expelled out the side vents? And, if necessary, can the chill mat's direction of airflow be changed to coincide with the natural direction of air flow of the 622?

[jsk]

I'm surprised that Dish doesn't have a "Chill Mat Activation Fee" if you plug it into the USB port. :D

[Presence]

I'm looking to use a chill mat, too. One question: what is the direction of the airflow through the 622? Is the air taken in from the bottom and expelled out the side vents? And, if necessary, can the chill mat's direction of airflow be changed to coincide with the natural direction of air flow of the 622?
By default there is no airflow through the 622, and that is the problem. Not only that, there are no vents on the top, either, and which way does warm air flow?

The cooling mat pulls air from the bottom and blows it out the front/back (depending on which way you face it).

[tnsprin]

By default there is no airflow through the 622, and that is the problem. Not only that, there are no vents on the top, either, and which way does warm air flow?

The cooling mat pulls air from the bottom and blows it out the front/back (depending on which way you face it).

Not true that there is no airflow. A built-in fan runs, usually on low.

And unless you enclose your vip622 in a cabinet with poor ventilation, it is not likely to overheat. Because of slight changes in design, they tend to run cooler in the later (letter) models. It has been said (anyone actually verify) that they are also switching to a Hard Drive that tends to run cooler.

[dave1234]

I'm surprised that Dish doesn't have a "Chill Mat Activation Fee" if you plug it into the USB port. :D

Since they read this forum there will be one shortly. :hurah:


FWIW if I remember correctly the general rule of thumb for reliability in electronics results in a doubling of MTBF for every 10 degree reduction in temperature. In my opinion adding cooling to the 622 is a good idea as it runs very warm. Sure it's not outside the spec's of any parts, but I think Dish tried to minimize the noise by letting it run hot. It's especially beneficial to the hard disk drive to add cooling.

[Kent Taylor]

Not true that there is no airflow. A built-in fan runs, usually on low.

And unless you enclose your vip622 in a cabinet with poor ventilation, it is not likely to overheat. Because of slight changes in design, they tend to run cooler in the later (letter) models. It has been said (anyone actually verify) that they are also switching to a Hard Drive that tends to run cooler.

My letter model is 'L'. I can't feel any airflow whatsoever in normal operation. On a reset, I can feel air exiting the left side. I don't think I have a problem with overheating; it's not in an enclosed cabinet.

[wje]

My 622 used to run hot; I had average disk temps near 130. I rearranged my equipment cabinet and gave the 622 about 4 inches of overhead clearance. Side clearance remained at 2 inches each side. My average disk temp is now 107.

So, vertical clearance seems to be important. I gather from this that the 622 really can cool itself properly, if it's given a chance.

[Presence]

Not true that there is no airflow. A built-in fan runs, usually on low.

Yes, it is true. Unless Dish has made upgrades since the 622's introduction, the built-in fan does not run on "low" -- it has two modes: off or full. I checked this myself.

[tnsprin]

Yes, it is true. Unless Dish has made upgrades since the 622's introduction, the built-in fan does not run on "low" -- it has two modes: off or full. I checked this myself.

It is definely a multiple speed fan. It may go off as well, but I can confirm seeing mine run on low. This is on my "c" model.

[P Smith]

It is definely a multiple speed fan. It may go off as well, but I can confirm seeing mine run on low. This is on my "c" model.

I would like to hear technical details of your confirmation.
From my side I can tell you by _measuring_ voltage and close visual inspection the fan never rotating exclude reboot time.

[tnsprin]

I would like to hear technical details of your confirmation.
From my side I can tell you by _measuring_ voltage and close visual inspection the fan never rotating exclude reboot time.

Put your hand near the vent's on the right side. You will feel a slight chilling effect from the fan.

[P Smith]

Well, use bright flashlight and look by yourself thru a grid on right side of the 622 if your fan _really_ rotating.
Your method cannot stand against _measures_; plus all the boxes have _same_ software and cannot have different behavior.
The observation does not proof anything, sorry. Its in contrary with your previous words "I can confirm seeing mine run on low".

[PhantomOG]

My 622's fans blow like a tornado during a reboot. All other times I can hear the fans at a much softer volume (presumably slower) even when off/standby.

[ChuckA]

But, is it the fan or the HDD you are hearing?

[PhantomOG]

Well, I'm assuming its the fan since I've never heard a HDD get anywhere near that loud.

Maybe they've got some super special extremely loud HDD in there.... either way its pretty loud (evidenced by the other thread of people being woken up by it!)

[P Smith]

Take a time to look into - the noise come from _constantly_ rotating disk, not from a fan !
Hearsay - I can't believe - we're discussing _physical_ device, not rumors. :(

[ChuckA]

Well, I'm assuming its the fan since I've never heard a HDD get anywhere near that loud.

Maybe they've got some super special extremely loud HDD in there.... either way its pretty loud (evidenced by the other thread of people being woken up by it!)

I do believe it is the fan that wakes people up but that's only when there is a boot. The fan kicks into high during boot. But at other times my 622 just has a soft hum that could well be the HDD and not the fan. I don't know if the fan runs on a low speed or not since I have never looked but the sound I hear from my 622 could be the HDD rather than what you assume is the fan.

[ChuckA]

Okay, you made me do it. I went and looked. But, with a flashlight looking into the right side vent I could not see anything moving. I did a front panel boot so the fan would kick in and I could still not see anything moving by looking into the vent. Maybe just me or the light or the position but that test failed to convince me either way. After a good up close listen in a quite room, I think P Smith could be right. It sounds like only a hard disk spinning in there to me. If the fan is moving it is making no noise and not moving any air that I could feel.

[P Smith]

That's physical fact :p and I'll bet for the 622 itself !

[dave1234]

Okay, you made me do it. I went and looked. But, with a flashlight looking into the right side vent I could not see anything moving. I did a front panel boot so the fan would kick in and I could still not see anything moving by looking into the vent. Maybe just me or the light or the position but that test failed to convince me either way. After a good up close listen in a quite room, I think P Smith could be right. It sounds like only a hard disk spinning in there to me. If the fan is moving it is making no noise and not moving any air that I could feel.

Just to clarify, A) you could see the fan blades.? B) You could see the fan blades were not moving?

If I remember correctly the fan is located inside the center of the unit and may not be visible from the outside.

[ChuckA]

I could NOT see the fan whether it was moving or not moving. P Smith said it could be seen on the right side, but I could not see it with a flashlight directed into the right side vent.

[wje]

Take a time to look into - the noise come from _constantly_ rotating disk, not from a fan !
Hearsay - I can't believe - we're discussing _physical_ device, not rumors. :(
Wrong. It is a multispeed fan, as I have physically confirmed by examining it in operation. The low speed is very quiet, and cannot be detected from it sound over the HDD noise. You can either look at the fan or measure the airflow, which I did.

[P Smith]

a) did you measure voltage on the fan ?
b) low speed doing nothing to cool the 'heater' (chips and disk ) - read my posts at satellite guys.us what voltage and air flow has been tested.

And again for you and others - I'm bet for the 622 itself you'll never provide evidence of quiet cooling in ViP622 !

[wje]

And again for you and others - I'm bet for the 622 itself you'll never provide evidence of quiet cooling in ViP622 !
I suppose that depends upon one's definition of quiet cooling. My fan is running at low speed, and my disk temp is 107 (reported by 622). I would say that is both quiet and cool. The only time I notice full-speed fan operation is on a reboot, but, of course, it might well run at higher speeds and I just don't hear it over the TV audio.

I'm not using any other external cooler. As I said in a previous post, my disk temp used to be pretty high. All I did to improve things significantly is increase the ventilation clearance above my 622, from 1" to 4".

[jas88]

When I look on my HDD temps, it gives a high temp, a low temp, and an average. I don't get a "current" temp. Are those figures for the past 24 hours? Or the life of the unit? Or what?

[harsh]

By default there is no airflow through the 622, and that is the problem. Not only that, there are no vents on the top, either, and which way does warm air flow?The air flow is from side to side.

Slamming DVRs into any kind of enclosure is asking for trouble. They will live a lot longer if they aren't buried in a rack or other other relatively enclosed area.

[P Smith]

I suppose that depends upon one's definition of quiet cooling. My fan is running at low speed, and my disk temp is 107 (reported by 622). I would say that is both quiet and cool. The only time I notice full-speed fan operation is on a reboot, but, of course, it might well run at higher speeds and I just don't hear it over the TV audio.

I'm not using any other external cooler. As I said in a previous post, my disk temp used to be pretty high. All I did to improve things significantly is increase the ventilation clearance above my 622, from 1" to 4".
Sorry, without _measuring_ voltage your posts doesn't proof anything.
Read the thread (http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=68690) for some facts about 622's fan.

[wje]

Sorry, without _measuring_ voltage your posts doesn't proof anything.
Read the thread (http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=68690) for some facts about 622's fan.

I don't quite understand your statement. Measuring the fan voltage gives no more information, and knowing the fan voltage in no way changes the fact that my drive temp is 107. The fan speed is related to the voltage, the airflow is related to the fan speed. This is simple physics. Just what additional info do you expect the voltage to give you?

Clearly, since the cooling is provided by airflow, measuring the airflow is a much better indication of cooling.

Also, when you measured the fan voltage yourself (which I think you said), how did you do it? A voltmeter most likely isn't sufficient. Most fan speed control is done not by varying the voltage, but by pulse-width modulating it. Put a scope on the fan and measure the duty cycle.

[P Smith]

Sure, in our dream you'll see PWM here. Don't worry about equipment, I have more then you can imagine :).
Please don't bring more variables to the equation - voltage measurement will be enough.
But I don't see you inclination to check it and accept your mistake. ;)

Actually, the discussion remind me a tale about three blind mans and an elephant :D.

Please, open a cover and _do_ some measures - an oscillogram of the duty cycle will helpful too.
I did that and I know for sure - the fan DO NOT ROTATING at all.

[Presence]

Exactly. It seems we have some experts here based on what they "felt" or "heard" or "well my temp is..." Take the cover off and look for yourself. The fan does not move except during reboot and overheat, and in both cases you will hear the full-on fan.

[wje]

Exactly. It seems we have some experts here based on what they "felt" or "heard" or "well my temp is..." Take the cover off and look for yourself. The fan does not move except during reboot and overheat, and in both cases you will hear the full-on fan.

Then something very strange is going on, because my fan is definitely running at slow speed. There is noticible air flow in the right side, enough to both feel and to hold a small piece of paper against ithe side. This is NOT the 747 takeoff speed on a reboot.

Note, though, that taking the cover off may well guarantee that the fan doesn't run. Remember, if the fan is variable speed, then it's temperature controlled. An open case means low temp, which means no running fan.

Could there be different revs of the box that changed the fan control? If so, that could explain why some people have worse temp problems than others.

So, I'll open it up this weekend, trace the fan circuits, and let you know what I find.

[wje]

Ok, I couldn't wait. By direct observation, I have checked the fan. It is running at low speed. If I block the left-side vents and wait a bit, it speeds up. I'd say that's pretty conclusive proof it's a variable speed van, or, at least, that it's not on-off.

Of course, measuring the airflow was also pretty conclusive, but this should satisfy the visual confirmation request. You want me to get the RPM meter out, too?

So, either some people complaining about not making direct observations aren't doing it themselves, or didn't take the temperature sensing part of variable speed control into account, or (probably the most likely) there has been a design change somewhere along the line. (See, I'm being nice :) )

[P Smith]

Thanks for being like that :).

That's become interesting ... I would try to measure voltage at least ( RMS meter will be good enough, but O-scope is better ;) ).

[jsk]

Looks like there is a deal to get the Antec Notebook Cooler for $9.99 (after rebate) or free after rebate if you are a first time Google Checkout user.

For more information from SlickDeals.Net, click here (http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?p=5849538&posted=1#post5849538). You can also see my plug for DBSTalk on there as well :)

[avp]

A few basic things about cooling:
1. The 622 takes cool air in on the right side.
2. It exhausts warm air with fan out left side. Fan runs at low speed most of the time. Put your hand by the left side to feel it. The right side always feels cooler.
3. It has bottom vents to take in cool air. Remember heat rises!
4. If you use a Laptop cooling unit make sure to use one that blows cool air up toward the vents. If you use most laptop coolers that claim to take hot air away from the unit you are defeating the systems built in cooling process. Remember heat rises. (most laptops take cool air in through the bottom openings and exhaust out the back) if you use a cooler that takes air away from bottom then the internal fans can't get enough air to cool processor. To test this put you hand by the back of unit exhaust port and lift up your laptop and you will
find more hot air being exhausted.
This is basic cooling. The same applies to the 622. Don't fight the cooling help it.
By the way Vantec makes Laptop coolers that move air in the correct direction up at the vents.

[P Smith]

2. The effect have a name - a convection; you've been mistaken. Any real proof is welcome, but before that read a discussion in last pages here.
3. Those holes is doing nothing to help air flow for original design.

[tnsprin]

Exactly. It seems we have some experts here based on what they "felt" or "heard" or "well my temp is..." Take the cover off and look for yourself. The fan does not move except during reboot and overheat, and in both cases you will hear the full-on fan.

I just confirmed the other day that the fan does move at least at two speed's. Although it appears to be off most of the time (assuming you don't overheat by enclosing it). Noticed a slightly louder noise (NOT THE FULL ON FAN SOUND) I used a small light looking though the right hand grill confirmed that it was moving. Previously I was surprised to find it was not moving but apparently convection that made that side seem cooler.

[P Smith]

I did attempt to run it all the time at low voltage while practically no sound emitting - found it USELESS ! Read my posts at SatelliteGuys.US

[whatchel1]

It's been 2 months since I started monitoring the temps of my unit. At that time my temps were:
H 140
L 105
AV 123
Since then I have added the Targus laptop cooler. They are now:
H 138
L 111
AV 123
Boy, I'm sure glad I spent that $ 17. Sure made a lot of difference not. Really beginning to think that the unit is designed to carry an AV of around 107 - 113 just about no matter what is done. Of course if one goes to the extremes of either putting it in a closed area with no ventilation or taking the cover off (voiding warranty) and putting some sort of "wind tunnel" effect to it it will change. Not sure reducing the temps by a couple of degrees is going to make a lot of difference.

[Jim5506]

I invested in one of these about a year ago.

http://www.hometheatercooling.com/?gclid=CKTxvfvEnYwCFQfxgAodBk601A

My temps have been High - 120, Low - 96, Ave - 107 rock steady ever since (slight ups and downs with the ambient room temp).

I just set it about an inch from the left side to pull air out of the unit. Even during heavy recording/playback sessions I can put my hand on top of the 622 and the case barely feels warm at all.

I consider it $50 well spent

[leo11374]

I have had two 622 receivers since Febrary. The first one went bad in about a week, the second about a month and half. I am getting the third one shipped to me now. While this is going on, techinicians had replaced my dish, reinstalled and positioned the dishes (two), replaced the cable etc just to roll out other possibilities. Five technicians so far have come to my home for this and nobody knows what's wrong. But the only thing on the screen is either a switch error or searching for satellite signal. All of these started since I purchased the 622. I wanted to cancel this service, but I was told by dish network that I had to pay for the penalty after all the troubles and pains it had caused me and days off work. It's absolutely outragous! I am just stuck with this.

[leo11374]

I am now trying to buy "Targus Notebook Chill Mat" to see whether it's due to heat problem.

[pkeenan]

Ladies and Germs,

Here are a couple of web sites that cater to the heat issue.
http://www.activethermal.com/
http://www.middleatlantic.com/

I've got the price sheet for the Active Thermal products. You can reach me by private message and I'll forward it to you. Middle Atlantic explains the process pretty well but Active Thermal has better pricing. I'm still in the process of evaluating both products.
Good luck, Peter

[JM Anthony]

I've got my 622 on the lowest shelf of my AV enclosure. When it was built, I had them route an 1"+ wide slot in the base above the kick plate. Cool air gets drawn in and helps keep temps in a tolerable range.

John

[paulcdavis]

It's been 2 months since I started monitoring the temps of my unit. At that time my temps were:
H 140
L 105
AV 123
Since then I have added the Targus laptop cooler. They are now:
H 138
L 111
AV 123
Boy, I'm sure glad I spent that $ 17. Sure made a lot of difference not. Really beginning to think that the unit is designed to carry an AV of around 107 - 113 just about no matter what is done. Of course if one goes to the extremes of either putting it in a closed area with no ventilation or taking the cover off (voiding warranty) and putting some sort of "wind tunnel" effect to it it will change. Not sure reducing the temps by a couple of degrees is going to make a lot of difference.


My temps:

H 125
L 69
AV 111

I increased the vertical clearance and side clearance and will try the targus cool mat to see if it makes any difference.

The 622 is in a glass door case with an open back and holes I drilled in the bottom, and on a lower shelf below the main heat source (Jvc 7 channel Dolby EX and DTS receiver)

The top of the unit feels warm to the touch. In general with electronic equipment, cooler is better.

[Kman68]

My 722 was running very hot:

High 140
Avg 128
Low 80

In South Florida 80 degrees is not high for a Low Temperature. What got on my nerves was the fan noise. It sounds like a helicopter. The unit is located in an AV stand without doors. Did some research on Home Theater Cooling and found this fan:

(the site will not allow posting of links) buyextras dot com/bxtulqu4x4x0.html

Noise control was the only thing I was really concerned about. With screws, fan grill and shipping the total was $30. Arrived 3 days latter.

Cut a hole in the back of the AV stand. Mounted the fan. Used an extension cord to connect to the Switched AC input on the receiver so that the fan only runs when TV/722 is on. Adjusted the fan speed control to the lowest setting that still turns the fan. Had to check for air movement by hand because the fan is silent. After only one night of use the Average Temp is down 5 degrees. The 722 fans have not turned on and the unit is cool to the touch.

Success.

[KalebD]

I went to my local Fry's yesterday and bought the following:

http://image.ak.outpost.com/art/product/box_shots/5442979.box.GIF (http://shop1.outpost.com/product/5442979?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)

It is a small, compact fan that you can adjust the fan speed on. I set it on the left side of my 622 and plugged it into the USB port I have for the receiver. It is designed to pull the hot air out. Within 30 minutes, a unit that was hot to the touch was only a little warm. I am pleased. :icon_hroc

[beetle02]

I put a chill mat under my 722 five days ago. I checked the temps before I installed it, low 96, high 120 and the average 109. It rebooted a couple of times right after I put the chill mat underneath but it has gone for three days without a reboot. The temps now read high 120, low 98 and the average 96. The average does not make sense, how could it be lower than the low temp?

Update: It rebooted once today but the mat seems to help, it has not rebooted as much since I put it in.

[rstark18]

I tried a chill mat under mine and it did reduce the temps some. One thing that I noticed when I was doing some tests was that I got the same temps whether the chill mat was on or off. What I think is happening is the fact that the cooler raises the VIP help with the cooling and the fans don't do any additional cooling. I know have the cooler turned off but still underneath it. I would be curious to know if other had the same results when they turned theirs off.

[P Smith]

Ok, I couldn't wait. By direct observation, I have checked the fan. It is running at low speed. If I block the left-side vents and wait a bit, it speeds up. I'd say that's pretty conclusive proof it's a variable speed van, or, at least, that it's not on-off.

Of course, measuring the airflow was also pretty conclusive, but this should satisfy the visual confirmation request. You want me to get the RPM meter out, too?

So, either some people complaining about not making direct observations aren't doing it themselves, or didn't take the temperature sensing part of variable speed control into account, or (probably the most likely) there has been a design change somewhere along the line. (See, I'm being nice :) )
Hey, long time not talk about the 622's fan :).

OK, finally I got into it and what I found:

Well, I decide to put final nail in that dispute - got scope, heat gun and canned air.
For refresh basic facts: temperature sensor located on PCB between HDD power socket and sat tuners - U16 (LM75);
when temperature at normal level fan's black and red wires measured +10 VDC;
when the chip has been heated ( I didn't measure the threshold ), voltage on black wire changed to sq wave - you can see below: 50% duty cycle
( pretty dirty I would say, with positive overshoot and negative overshoot, some noise, etc );
this picture did not change up to a few minutes after cool down the chip.
So, practically we see fixed control of the fan - OFF most of all time and 1/2 power when temp is raise above certain level.

I can't post pictures here anymore - the site have very strict life time limit for each member - only 5 MB allowed and you can't delete old pictures.
Check scope picture at SatGuys site.

[wje]

Interesting. Since the LM75 only provides an overtemp output, not a modulated output, I assume the processor is reading the actual temp via the LM75's I2C interface, which gives temp resolution down to 0.5 degrees. You'd think that if they were going to all the trouble to read the temp, they would have added the few lines of code to give more range to the fan speed.

[P Smith]

Do you want to check I2C data from LM75 ? :D

[RLMesq]

Wow, thread necromancy! I noticed that Jim posted twice about this thing:

I invested in one of these about a year ago.

http://www.hometheatercooling.com/?gclid=CKTxvfvEnYwCFQfxgAodBk601A

My temps have been High - 120, Low - 96, Ave - 107 rock steady ever since (slight ups and downs with the ambient room temp).

I just set it about an inch from the left side to pull air out of the unit. Even during heavy recording/playback sessions I can put my hand on top of the 622 and the case barely feels warm at all.

I consider it $50 well spent

Looks to me like an $8 computer case fan with a power supply. Isn't that pretty expensive for twenty bucks' worth of parts and ten minutes of labor?

[Jim5506]

No, its a 110v low noise case fan, designed for 24/7 365 use.

Try that with a $30 laptop cooler and you'll be buying 3 or 4 of them in two years.

I have a computer case fan pulling air out of my Panasonic Showstopper in the bedroom. That fan is extremely noisy compaired to the Home Theater fan.

I did extensive Googling before spending the $50 on that fan, but I still consider it a wise investment.

Ambient air temp - 78 degrees F.
HDD High Temp - 120 degrees F.
HDD Low Temp - 102 degrees F.
HDD Average Temp - 111 degrees F.

[barryaz1]

[/QUOTE]Ambient air temp - 78 degrees F.
HDD High Temp - 120 degrees F.
HDD Low Temp - 102 degrees F.
HDD Average Temp - 111 degrees F.[/QUOTE]

Silly question - is there a place in the menu to read temps or are you opening the case? Thanks.

Barry Singer
Scottsdale, AZ

(Eqpt cabinet (closed) recesses into the garage, that can hit 130-140 degrees in the summer. Have been in this house like this since 9/05 and no heat-related problems, but the LCD display on my Anthem AVM-20 does get kind of garbled when it's real hot.

[ChuckA]

Menu 6-3, counters, page down 5 or 6 times until you see the HDD temps.

[skippytym99]

My 622 used to run hot; I had average disk temps near 130. I rearranged my equipment cabinet and gave the 622 about 4 inches of overhead clearance. Side clearance remained at 2 inches each side. My average disk temp is now 107.

So, vertical clearance seems to be important. I gather from this that the 622 really can cool itself properly, if it's given a chance.

Of course there needs to be clearance if the clearance is inadequate the device will obviously run rather hot.

[wje]

Of course there needs to be clearance if the clearance is inadequate the device will obviously run rather hot.

Was there a point to this post? Have you actually looked at a 622? It's not at all obvious that any vertical clearance is needed, since there are no cooling slots on the top of the unit. The cooling is primarily from forced airflow from the right side of the box, exiting out the left.

In fact, it works quite well with zero vertical clearance, or > 4" vertical clearance, just not a few inches. Why? Because a very nice circulation pattern develops above the box where the exhaust hot air gets sucked right back in on the other side.

[P Smith]

You know, wje, there was read cmds each 5 sec. So temp sensor is polling.

[wje]

Cool. (so to speak)

[skippytym99]

Was there a point to this post? Have you actually looked at a 622? It's not at all obvious that any vertical clearance is needed, since there are no cooling slots on the top of the unit. The cooling is primarily from forced airflow from the right side of the box, exiting out the left.

In fact, it works quite well with zero vertical clearance, or > 4" vertical clearance, just not a few inches. Why? Because a very nice circulation pattern develops above the box where the exhaust hot air gets sucked right back in on the other side.

the fact that it sucks in hot air is what i meant. without clearance it is forced to suck the hot air in with a total of 4" is needed to get proper circulation for cooling.

[P Smith]

Cool. (so to speak)
But device doesn't look, hmm, feel cool - somebody forgot to write fan control driver and used O.S. for just make 50% duty cycle.

[P Smith]

Wje, here is the algo:

set:
Tos = 55°C
Thyst = 27°C
Interrupt Mode

start:
- check temp each 5 sec
- if it > 55°C turn on a fan, else goto start:
- wait 5 min
- turn off a fan
- wait 5 min // there is a bug, instead of just waiting another 5 min, they should read from IC to reset O.S. and then probe for curr temp when it reach Thyst
goto start:

Duh.

[harsh]

Typically a fan must remain running so that there is a minimum of circulation. If it doesn't, components not near the sensor can fry and it would never be the wiser.

[P Smith]

That's how L4.49 build. All questions to Dish, please.

[P Smith]

Typically a fan must remain running so that there is a minimum of circulation. If it doesn't, components not near the sensor can fry and it would never be the wiser.
So far from analysis above, the fan/LM75/code working in thermostat mode.

[scoobyxj]

I guess YMMV on the heat related issue. My VIP722 sits on top of my Onkyo HT-R420 receiver, and I've never had any problems out of it. My hi is 138, Low is 82, and AVG is 120. FWIW though I've been planning on swapping the two around to let the 722 to run cooler. I have had them overheat on me before I can even get out the door on installs where I had to set the receiver on the floor though.

[harsh]

I guess YMMV on the heat related issue. My VIP722 sits on top of my Onkyo HT-R420 receiver, and I've never had any problems out of it. My hi is 138, Low is 82, and AVG is 120. FWIW though I've been planning on swapping the two around to let the 722 to run cooler.Before you settle on the relative positioning, carefully read your Onkyo manual regarding its placement relative to other equipment. Some receivers emit an enormous electrical field and the manuals caution against placing certain devices near these regions.

[Tulsa1]

I would not recommend placing the DVR immediately below or above an amplifier/receiver.:nono2:

[scoobyxj]

I know this is old, but thought I would share a bit. I have moved my 722 to the bottom shelf of my open equipment rack with only the DVD player under it, and at least six inches to the next shelf above. It has probably been there for at least six months. My temps are High 138, low 82, and avg is 125. Odd that the Avg temps went up by 5* after moving it off the Onkyo which threw off a lot of heat.

[P Smith]

Just remember, operational temperature of most HDD is up to 55 C or 131 F. Don't allow come too close to it, or the disk will die soon.

[harsh]

Odd that the Avg temps went up by 5* after moving it off the Onkyo which threw off a lot of heat.Has the ambient temperature in the room been constant compared to what it was six months ago? My ambient has been up aroun 8-10 degrees this summer.

[rstark18]

As for me I have my 722 in a fully enclosed cabinet with a Denon AVR788 receiver. In the upper back of the cabinet I installed a 2in computer fan (powered by the rear USB port) that sucks air out. My temps are 132H 107L 118A. The DVR is warm but not hot to the touch. It's been running this way for about a year and everything is running great.

[scoobyxj]

Has the ambient temperature in the room been constant compared to what it was six months ago? My ambient has been up aroun 8-10 degrees this summer.
Well is is summer, but up intill the last few weeks we have been running the AC, and usually keep it about 68* in here. On the other hand it was July of 08 when I posed my last AVG temp so the ambient temb should have been the same.

[TheFoxMan]

I'm looking to use a chill mat, too. One question: what is the direction of the airflow through the 622? Is the air taken in from the bottom and expelled out the side vents? And, if necessary, can the chill mat's direction of airflow be changed to coincide with the natural direction of air flow of the 622?

I use a Targus Laptop Chill Mat (PA248U1), which is reported to be much better than the PA248U. Air flows upward, which is best for this application, and it is whisper quiet. Since my 622 is in a cabinet, I also have a Thermaltake USB Mobile Fan II pulling air from the left side. To run both fans, I plug them into a powered USB hub connected to the 622.