Upconversion Advice

[ChrisMinCT]

Looking for some advice on upconverting, Component vs. HDMI.

With the recent failure of HDMI and Component on one of my HR20s and the impending arrival of the new one, I'm rethinking my connections here.

In addition to the HR20 I also have a Samsung upconvert DVD player. Originally, it was hooked up via HDMI-DVI until the HR20 arrived. Then I switched it to Component to give the HR20 the HDMI-DVI connection. I then learned that the DVD player only upconverts via HDMI, and not Component. I've just now learned that most upconvert DVD players only upconvert through HDMI. If not all, but I'm sure there are exceptions to this as with everything.

But the HR20 can upconvert via Component. But as I experiment with this on both my RPTV and my LCD TV, it looks to me that upconverting is noticeably better on HDMI than on Component.

At the sametime, however, Component HD channels look better to me than HDMI HD channels, on the RPTV, and the reverse on the LCD. And this makes no sense to me at all. Logic says that if a 1080i output looks better it shouldn't matter whether it was native 1080i or upconverted 1080i. Should it?

Is there a reason for this, or should I be seeing an optomistrist?

My conclusion from what I'm seeing is that I should hook up the new HR20 via Component and let it run in Native so that I'm not upconverting 480i signals. This will give me the best HD performance. And it will allow me to hook the DVD player back up via HDMI to get back to upconverting.

[lwilli201]

The debate as to which is better, Component or HDMI, will rage on forever. You can bet that you will not get a definitive answer to your question. It all depends on what looks good to you. Since you only have one DVI input, sounds like you have a sound plan.

[cygnusloop]

At the sametime, however, Component HD channels look better to me than HDMI HD channels, on the RPTV, and the reverse on the LCD. And this makes no sense to me at all. Logic says that if a 1080i output looks better it shouldn't matter whether it was native 1080i or upconverted 1080i. Should it?


My conclusion from what I'm seeing is that I should hook up the new HR20 via Component and let it run in Native so that I'm not upconverting 480i signals. This will give me the best HD performance. And it will allow me to hook the DVD player back up via HDMI to get back to upconverting.

There are many, many opinions out there on this one.
I think some of the effects that you are seeing are the calibration differences between the different inputs, and of course the difference between your TV's. Also there is the native resolution of the TV's to factor in as well.

What are the native resolutions of your displays? (This is not the same question as "What input resolutions does your TV support?")

All that said, you seem to be working out a plan that will work for YOU. Most important thing, no matter what "advice" anyone cares to give, is to do what works best, and looks best, to YOU.

So, here is some advice. ;)
Connect the HR20 via component. Connect your DVD via HDMI/DVI.

If your TV's inputs behave basically the same as mine, then here is how I would setup the HR20. [The important issue is if the TV "remembers" its format setting(4:3 vs. 16:9 or whatever the TV calls it, full, normal, etc...) per input line resolution]. Sounds complicated, but it really isn't, and I think most TV's behave this way.

So, my suggested settings for the HR20.
Native=on
Select only 480p and 1080i (or 720p, if your TV is a native 720 or 768 display.)
Format=stretch

Here's how it will work.
If the progam is a standard 480i SD program, the HR20 will deinterlace it to 480p, and send it to the TV. (There are advantages to allowing the HR20 to do the deinterlace.) The TV will then scale the image to its native display resolution. Have the TV set to it's 4:3 display mode and let it generate the pillar bars. See the following post for a rant on why I prefer my TV's pillars.

http://www.dbstalk.com/showpost.php?p=885648&postcount=64

If the program is HD (16:9/720p or 1080i) then it will display as it should as well (once you have set the TV to 16:9, or full or whatever your TV calls it for that resolution). If your TV remembers its format setting per resolution, as outlined above, then as you switch between SD and HD with the HR20, your TV's pillars should go off and on as needed.

Hope this makes sense. Good luck.

[ChrisMinCT]

So, here is some advice. ;)
Connect the HR20 via component. Connect your DVD via HDMI/DVI.

If your TV's inputs behave basically the same as mine, then here is how I would setup the HR20. [The important issue is if the TV "remembers" its format setting(4:3 vs. 16:9 or whatever the TV calls it, full, normal, etc...) per input line resolution]. Sounds complicated, but it really isn't, and I think most TV's behave this way.

So, my suggested settings for the HR20.
Native=on
Select only 480p and 1080i (or 720p, if your TV is a native 720 or 768 display.)
Format=stretch

If the program is HD (16:9/720p or 1080i) then it will display as it should as well (once you have set the TV to 16:9, or full or whatever your TV calls it for that resolution). If your TV remembers its format setting per resolution, as outlined above, then as you switch between SD and HD with the HR20, your TV's pillars should go off and on as needed.

Hope this makes sense. Good luck.

:bowdown:

Thanks, this seems like really great advice.

Now I await the arrival of the stork with my new HR20. I really hope they send me a 100. I think it would be cool to have a 700 and a 100 hooked up to the same dish for ongoing CE testing.

[Milominderbinder2]

The people who calibrate TV's for a living will tell you that it has more to do with how good the calibration is on an input than on the input type.

We do know of horror stories with HDMI and the HR20. Many reported switching to Component fixed their problems. Even Earl had that experience with another receiver.

So why take the chance?

- Craig

[cygnusloop]

The people who calibrate TV's for a living will tell you that it has more to do with how good the calibration is on an input than on the input type.


Absolutely true, and a reason why comparing HDMI to component, even on the same display, is still not apples - apples.