View Full Version : Grounding question
tkrandall
07-07-07, 03:35 PM
Typically, instructions say to use a grounding block near point of entry. I do not have one installed (professionals did not install one), however, I have a multi satellite dish (phase III now, soon to be a slimline) feeding a nearby eave-mounted multiswitch (up to 8 outputs) before the lines go there own separate ways into the house.
The dish ground wire connects to the mulitswitch's ground post before the ground wire goes to the house ground post.
My question is does the multiswitch ground serve the purpose of a grounding block? Or do I need a grounding block between the dish and the multiswitch?
veryoldschool
07-07-07, 03:57 PM
Typically, instructions say to use a grounding block near point of entry. I do not have one installed (professionals did not install one), however, I have a multi satellite dish (phase III now, soon to be a slimline) feeding a nearby eave-mounted multi-switch (up to 8 outputs) before the lines go there own separate ways into the house.
The dish ground wire connects to the mulitswitch's ground post before the ground wire goes to the house ground post.
My question is does the multi-switch ground serve the purpose of a grounding block? Or do I need a grounding block between the dish and the multi-switch?
So just to make sure I understand: your dish is grounded. Your multi-switch is grounded. Both of these are connected to the house ground.
If this is true, then you're as grounded as you can be.
Milominderbinder2
07-07-07, 06:34 PM
Here are detailed grounding instructions with diagrams:
→ HR20 Satellite Dish Antenna Grounding Requirements (http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?p=941620#post941620)
This and lot more are in the HR20 FAQ link below.
- Craig
Mertzen
07-07-07, 06:37 PM
So just to make sure I understand: your dish is grounded. Your multi-switch is grounded. Both of these are connected to the house ground.
If this is true, then you're as grounded as you can be.
Might be grounded but not according to NEC spec. There has to be a ground block.
TigersFanJJ
07-07-07, 07:30 PM
Yes, that is an approved way to ground your system.
tkrandall
07-07-07, 09:28 PM
I've been checking out other Dish and DirecTV installations in my neighborhood - amazing most of them have no grounding block and/or dish ground wire installed.
HDTVsportsfan
07-07-07, 09:36 PM
Unfortunetly it's not all that surprising. Grounding for some reason usually doesn't happen.
davring
07-07-07, 09:38 PM
D* would not connect a ground as my grounding point was too far away. I didn't argue, grounded it myself.
veryoldschool
07-07-07, 11:10 PM
Might be grounded but not according to NEC spec. There has to be a ground block.
The multi-switch is outside of the house, so I believe it would comply as a ground block would.
tkrandall
07-08-07, 06:32 AM
I also have an OTA antenna on the roof. My OTA antenna line goes into the house on the roof only about 4 feet away from the antenna by skirting underneath the flashing for my furnace exhaust vent. Right now there is a grounding block in the attic, but the ground wire is hooked to the house electical ground at that point via an electrical outlet. I am not all that comfortable with that set up.
My question is, should I install the grounding block on the roof right next to the flashing, or should I do it just inside the attic? If inside, I would still run the grounding wire outside down the roof to the house's ground post, unless routing part of it inside the attic and then through the eave would be acceptable.
Also, I am not clear if it is OK to run a common ground wire for the antenna and grounding block (as directv shows as option 2), or if separate lines are better.
aim2pls
07-08-07, 08:53 AM
I don't believe that the grounding issue will ever be resolved.
One thing that is definate .... if you take a direct hit ... you dish is "GONE"
another thing that is definate .. there is a higher probablity that any lightning surges will come in thru the power lines (higher exposure)
MOV (common type aka power strips) surge protectors offer no protection against lightning .. they are just too slow and have a limited (1 yr) shelf life .. but should prevent a fire
veryoldschool
07-08-07, 09:36 AM
I also have an OTA antenna on the roof. My OTA antenna line goes into the house on the roof only about 4 feet away from the antenna by skirting underneath the flashing for my furnace exhaust vent. Right now there is a grounding block in the attic, but the ground wire is hooked to the house electical ground at that point via an electrical outlet. I am not all that comfortable with that set up.
My question is, should I install the grounding block on the roof right next to the flashing, or should I do it just inside the attic? If inside, I would still run the grounding wire outside down the roof to the house's ground post, unless routing part of it inside the attic and then through the eave would be acceptable.
Also, I am not clear if it is OK to run a common ground wire for the antenna and grounding block (as directv shows as option 2), or if separate lines are better.
Sometimes it helps to take a step back and look at it.
One of the "ideas" of grounding is to have a ground point before it enters your house.
Most [all] of the grounding diagrams show this.
Moving it into the attic would not meet this requirement.
As with the posting above, there was a multi-switch grounded outside the house which would comply.
There is "code" and then the intent of the code.
My house has lighting rods which connect to a braided aluminum (?) cable which connects to a ground rod next to my dish. The installer ran the ground cable from the dish to the braided lightning rod cable not the actual ground rod in the earth. After reading this thread, I am uncomfortable that the installer grounded the dish correctly.
Any opinions ?
Thanks
Don
aim2pls
07-08-07, 06:16 PM
dbsson .. its an electricial ground .. its fine ... a direct hit will kill your system either way
joe diamond
07-08-07, 11:38 PM
As I Install...customers ask how this thin wire will prevent damage from lightning.
I always say it won't. Grounding is to protect against injury from other damage but there are no promises.
If you get arcing when you connect the ground wire there is already a serious problem.
Joe
Unfortunetly it's not all that surprising. Grounding for some reason usually doesn't happen.
Good thing that all my stuff is leased now :lol:
I do not have a ground despite having D* install a 18", a 18x24 and then a AT9. Now that I added the OTA, I plan to create a ground. It's just going to be a pain since the entire house is sorrounded by concrete.
CobraGuy
07-09-07, 08:07 AM
dbsson .. its an electricial ground .. its fine ... a direct hit will kill your system either way
You are correct...nothing saves a direct hit. But what a proper ground does do is remove static electricity that can cause audio/video pops.
aim2pls
07-09-07, 01:20 PM
You are correct...nothing saves a direct hit. But what a proper ground does do is remove static electricity that can cause audio/video pops.
so true
unfortunately a good ground can also cause hum bars ... difference on ground potential between the ground rod and the building electrical ground ...
tkrandall
07-09-07, 01:29 PM
so true
unfortunately a good ground can also cause hum bars ... difference on ground potential between the ground rod and the building electrical ground ...
I thought if you used a seperate ground rod for the antenna/dish, you were supposed to connect the two rods with a #6 copper wire to remove any difference in potential.
aim2pls
07-09-07, 03:59 PM
thatworks IF you have a ground rod for the building .... in a lot of areas .. the incoming water pipe (jumping over the meter) is used as the ground
CobraGuy
07-10-07, 06:49 AM
so true
unfortunately a good ground can also cause hum bars ... difference on ground potential between the ground rod and the building electrical ground ...
As tkrandall said...that is not a proper ground. You should never get interference from a proper ground. 99.9% of all ground issues are caused by incorrect connections, bad connections, or an improper ground system. I have seen some VERY strange issues from bad grounds. Once corrected, they disappear. And just because you ground your dish/cables to the house properly doesn't mean the ground is correct. You could have an issue with the way the house was grounded. (not done correctly) This would be rare. But I've seen owners and workers leave things disconnected or hooked back improperly.
I had a problem with my alarm system. It would intermittently go off because it thought someone was tampering with the system. Drove us nuts. I finally traced it to a ground connection outside the house that the phone company had hooked up wrong. Once corrected, no more problem.
tkrandall
07-10-07, 08:09 AM
This reminds me, when I attached my alarm system back around 1990, the installation manual cleary said to not ground the alarm system to the house ground, but to use a seperate ground rod, which I did. Not sure why that was recommended.
This reminds me, when I attached my alarm system back around 1990, the installation manual cleary said to not ground the alarm system to the house ground, but to use a seperate ground rod, which I did. Not sure why that was recommended.
Not sure on the home front. But back in the mid 90's people were using tazers on antennas to fry out car alarms..
unfortunately a good ground can also cause hum bars ... difference on ground potential between the ground rod and the building electrical ground ...All ground rods are to be connected to the building electrical ground, so there is no potential for potential.
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