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Discussion in 'DIRECTV General Discussion' started by Stuart Sweet, Aug 6, 2007.
If you're using a home theatre UPS, what brand do you have? Are you happy? If not, why not?
I'm usng an APC 1500, Although I don't have my 50" plasma on the battery backup side. The UPs caused a lound hum to come from the Plasma. Everything else is on it no problem.
I am using an APC ES series 650A, model number BE650R. I have a HR10-250, a HR20-700, and a 50" LCD rear projection connected to it with no issues. Picked it up at Best Buy about 9 months ago.
I only have the TV hooked up to handle the power hiccups. If the power were to go out, I would turn the TV off to allow the DVRs to keep chugging.
I'm also using a 1500 APC UPS. It works well keeping everything running until I properly shut stuff down.
Theoretically you are supposed to use an UPS with a true sinewave output but I've been using computer UPS's for years on my home theater stuff without issue.
I've got a couple APC Smart UPS 1500's running some stuff and a couple BestBuy 1500's running the others. Sure is nice with the lights dim or you get a quick hit thay everything keeps right on ticking.
One nice thing about the BestBuy units is there's a LCD panel right on the front that you can get the load info, runtime etc vs. having to connect a PC to the APC"s to get the same info.
Have APC Backup-UPS ES' all over the house. PC's and DVR's. BE650R & BE500R's mostly.
Anybody ever try to run a receiver\amp on a 1500APC, or other branded 1500watt UPS ? Did it work ok ? I have all but my amp\receiver hooked to a 1500watt UPS, but without power to the amp, you can't see or hear anything.
I'm running a Onkyo TR901, Samsung LN-S4696D HDTV, D* HR20 and PS3 all off a APC 1500 UPS, no problems.
I have the following connected to my SmartUPS 1500:
57" Sony CRT HDTV
5.1 speakers and sub
Home Theatre PC
Cisco 8 port switch
ChannelPlus 5515 Channel Modulator
Fluorecent Task Light
2 4 Battery Chargers
Except for the PS2, PC and Task Light, all of those items are running 24/7.
Even with the PS2 and PC running, I have never come close to overloading the unit. I can have everything except for the PS2, PC and Task Light running on battery for over an hour without running down.
I now have a UPS in every room, connected to every entertainment center. They are invaluable for those brownout and oopsie moments that power has.
Wow, I did not realize a power amp\receiver unit would be that gentle on an UPS (of course, I assume you are not pounding the latest THX movie at 75% volume with those figures....). That's terrific, I think I will toss my old worn out UPS and get a new 1500 watter, and go. Thanks for the input guys.
I'm using an APC 1500 (Earl suggested it a few months back when it went on sale at one of the office supply stores) but just for my HR20 to insure recordings don't get interupted during short power outages. I tried plugging my Panny Plasma into it and it drew so much power I think the estimate for the battery time was only about 10 minutes. So everything else is plugged into a Monster surge protector.
Yeah, there's the other side of things - even if you don't overload, you're still drawing more power. I'm about to go to the local store and see how big a UPS my wallet can stand.
I just installed a Belkin PureAV AVU1500 UPS this weekend. List price is $1499, but I got it for $685 from Provantage.
Has 12 outlets on the back (on 3 separate circuits), along with 1 in the front behind a hidden panel. Also has a HUGE LCD screen that shows a bunch of info, including input voltage, amps used, etc.
Load shows just over 5 amps when powering my D* HD and SD DirecTivos, HTPC, Sony GWIV LCD, Onkyo 805 Receiver, plus some misc. stuff (powered coax splitter, network switch, etc.) I'm pretty happy with it so far.
Sounds like a lot of APC lovers out there. I user their UPS's in my network rack, I trust them.
I like APC mostly because replacement batteries are easy to obtain, recycle, and replace. I've had very mixed luck with other brands.
I'm using a Belkin 1500VA UPS. I have 2 HR20s, panasonic 50" plasma, HDMI switch, ethernet switch and Denon receiver tied to it. I don't care so much for the the extended run time, but more for the line regualtion and filtering. Total draw is typically around 2.5 amps an dintermittently spikes to 4.5 amps wiht a white screen.
I have the same model on my PC and it draws the same or more current. Happy with bothof them.
Same with me. Anything other than APC has been crap in my experience. The SmartUps 1250 in my master bedroom is almost 15 years old and has only had to have a battery replaced about 3 years ago.
Trust APC. They are the masters in this game.
I have 4 APC SU2200XL-NETs and UXPB48s external battery cases in the Garage with dedicated circuits to the electronic devices throughout the house.
I then put that through an old audiophile Tice Power/Titan unit to the key video/audio circuits as I have not found anything that does a better job on the AC conditioning and making will insert power when required - even though I have everything on dedicated 20 Amp circuits.
My future plans include a Xantrex SW Plus 5500 inverter. The package includes automatic transfer switch, you supply the lead-acid batteries and wiring. Its designed to be hooked up full-time near your breaker box. At my place the Xantrex will handle most of my 120V loads and the batteries will recharge when the power returns. For long-term outages my 12kW generator will recharge the batteries while also handling 120 and 240V loads (like my well pump - gotta get a shower every day!).
APC1500 here too.. holds the whole rack for 30 minutes.. much longer if shut off.
Just a reminder don't forget to hook any powered switches/ant amps to it to..