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HR24-500 issues, replaced with a -100 and a -200

Discussion in 'DIRECTV HD DVR/Receiver Discussion' started by mikelbeck, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. Nov 4, 2010 #81 of 121
    dsw2112

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    :scratchin

    Something isn't right here... Without a ground wire attached to your coax ground block, and with one multimeter lead attached to the ground block and the other on a household ground, you read 12 volts?
     
  2. Nov 4, 2010 #82 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    Yes.
     
  3. Nov 4, 2010 #83 of 121
    dsw2112

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    Then there's likely voltage on a coax shield that shouldn't be there (there's a few other possibilities, but I'd start there.) I'd remove a coax line one at a time from the block and see if the problem disappears for starters. Check for a center conducter shorted to shielding, corrosion, etc...
     
  4. Nov 4, 2010 #84 of 121
    mikelbeck

    mikelbeck AllStar

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    There should be some voltage at the block from the power injector connected to the switch, no? What should it be?
     
  5. Nov 4, 2010 #85 of 121
    dsw2112

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    Remember this is the ground side of things -- stray voltage can be ok; 12 volts not ok. The PI places voltage on the center conducter, not on the coax shielding (which is the same point electrically as the ground point of a ground block.) This would be a good point to ask where exactly are you placing the multimeter probe on the ground block?
     
  6. Nov 4, 2010 #86 of 121
    mikelbeck

    mikelbeck AllStar

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    Ah, ok. After work tomorrow I'll start disconnecting stuff and see when/if the voltage goes away.
     
  7. Nov 4, 2010 #87 of 121
    dsw2112

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    It's likely to be the coax that goes into the home, but try both (unplug the PI power cord BEFORE disconnecting a coax on the ground block, then plug PI back in to take your measurement; unplug PI again before re-connecting coax.) You're likely to cause an arc between the center conducter and ground if you leave the PI plugged in during the process (that would be bad...)

    Where is your PI in the scheme of things? It sounds like it was re-located to the basement, is it between the splitter and ground block or before the splitter? I'd look to the PI first; try unplugging and see if the voltage dissapates.

    The problem could be introduced from many directions, so you might need to unplug a coax one at a time from your SWM splitter. Once you start to eliminate things you'll get a better idea of what's happening...
     
  8. Nov 5, 2010 #88 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    It's plugged directly into the splitter now.
     
  9. Nov 5, 2010 #89 of 121
    Richierich

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    Well, my Audio Switching Problem was not fixed by the NR so I played around with it and finally switched out my Coaxial Digital Audio Cable for a Toslink Cable and now it is working Perfectly for 24 hours.

    I will continue to Monitor it to see if it indeed Reverts back to Switching from Digital to Analog and then back to Digital and then back to Analog but if it doesn't my Conclusion is that all this time it was caused by a Bad Coaxial Digital Audio Cable!!! :hurah:
     
  10. Nov 5, 2010 #90 of 121
    dsw2112

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    On the power passing port right? Anything "upstream" of the PI (Receiver, DECA, etc?)
     
  11. Nov 5, 2010 #91 of 121
    hdtvfan0001

    hdtvfan0001 Well-Known Member

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    Good to know and good to hear.
     
  12. Nov 5, 2010 #92 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    I don't know, I didn't look at the splitter after the tech moved the PI down to the basement. I'll check it out tonight.

    I *THINK* I have this switch (but am not positive):

    [​IMG]

    I assume the line from the dish would go to the "IN" port. Where should the PI be connected? The red "OUT" port?

    There is nothing upstream from the PI, only 1 port is connected and that's to the cable that goes to the splitter.
     
  13. Nov 5, 2010 #93 of 121
    dsw2112

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    That's correct
     
  14. Nov 5, 2010 #94 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    Ok, the splitter I have is the "SPLIT8MRV":

    [​IMG]

    It looks like it has 3 "power pass" ports - the "in" and two of the "out" ports. The main line from the dish was plugged into "in", the line from the PI was plugged into one of the "out" ports that's marked power pass, and the line from the master bedroom was plugged into the other power pass port.

    I checked the voltage at one of the ground terminals on the ground block, either the one from the dish or the one that would go to the ground rod and there was no difference in voltages.

    The voltage at the ground block before doing anything was 14.6V. This was with the green ground line disconnected.

    I disconnected the power from the PI and it was 13.1V at the ground block.
    I disconnected the master bedroom line and it dropped to 0.11V.
    I reconnected the master bedroom line and it went back to 13.2V.
    I moved the master bedroom line to one of the unused ports (had a terminator on it), and the voltage dropped back to 0.11V.
    I plugged the PI back in and it went back up to 14.8V.
    I re-connected the green ground line to the ground block and the voltage dropped a little to 14.4V.

    Then my helper had to leave so I can't do any more tonight. Tomorrow I'm going to disconnect everything from the splitter and then add them back one at a time and check the voltage to see if I can narrow down where it's coming from.
     
  15. Nov 5, 2010 #95 of 121
    dsw2112

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    That splitter has one power pass port (the top left "red" one); that port will feed DC to the "IN" port. Did you see corrosion on any cables, or shielding touching a center conducter?

    Based on your info I'd take a close look at the master bedroom cable (staples through the cable, connector "issues", etc) but you're on the right tracking by disconnecting everything and adding them back one at a time. You might also try connecting the master bed coax feed to the sat feed directly (bypassing both the PI and splitter) to see if you can eliminate all else. You may even find that the master bed receiver is the problem. Too many variables right now, but you're getting closer.
     
  16. Nov 5, 2010 #96 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    Oh, ok. I read the labeling wrong. However now I've got the PI connected to the 2nd port, not the power pass port. Guess I'll go fix that.

    None whatsoever. Most of the cables have relatively new connectors on them and they're all in good shape.

    Of course that's the only one that goes through the middle of the house, up to the attic and down through the wall. All of the others are either on the 1st floor or run along the outside of the house...
     
  17. Nov 5, 2010 #97 of 121
    dsw2112

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    I did some editing while you posted, you might try this as well:

    You can also insert and remove the PI in the above configuration to further isolate... If it looks to be an issue with the master bed coax; unplug coax on both ends and check the resistance between the shielding and center conducter; you should read infinity.
     
  18. Nov 5, 2010 #98 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    Ok, didn't see that update until just now.

    However, I was downstairs disconnecting everything and checking voltages at the switch. They were all over the place, with cables connected and disconnected. Then I re-connected everything, put it back in the ceiling and checked it once more and found that it was about 0.1V. I realized the corner of the switch - where the green ground screw is - was laying on the metal rails for the drop ceiling.... grounding itself, I guess.

    Does the switch need to be grounded? Because it's not... just pushed up on top of one of the ceiling tiles.
     
  19. Nov 5, 2010 #99 of 121
    dsw2112

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    .1V is good :) Is that with the ground wire disconnected from the block?

    The switch (really a splitter) doesn't need to be grounded, because the ground block is. As a result of the ground block, anything connected to the coax will be electrically grounded (not a safety ground though.) It may have been a connection issue and re-seating everything fixed it -- hopefully! It may also mean that you moved a defective cable in a way to temporarily mitigate the problem; in this case you'll likely see it again... Also, if the ground block is connected to ground you might just be "shunting" the voltage to ground. I'd double check this (with the ground cable disconnected) if you haven't already. Did you happen to check the resistance values on any cables?

    In any case you've discovered why grounding is a good thing; it sends voltage (that inadvertently ended up in the wrong place) to ground where it can't harm your equipment or people ;)
     
  20. Nov 5, 2010 #100 of 121
    mikelbeck

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    Yes, the ground wire was disconnected.

    But it's only showing 0.1V when the switch/splitter is laying on the metal rail for the drop ceiling. Once I move it then it goes back to showing ~14V.

    Let me go back and re-connect the ground wire to the block and see if there's any difference.

    And no, I didn't check the resistance on any of the cables yet.

    UPDATE: I re-connected the ground wire to the ground block and it's still showing ~14V at the block.
     

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