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Discussion in 'DIRECTV HD DVR/Receiver Discussion' started by mitchflorida, Aug 16, 2010.
How do you like it? I've had no issues with mine.
No problems. It's only switching two components. It works fine.
$12 will solve your problem.
It is $15 including shipping. If I want an RF remote control like the HR-24 has, that is another $25, and if I want to upgrade my HR-24 to 1 TB capacitty, that is another $70 . . a total of $110.
But for only $100 , I could have ordered a second HR-24 instead of an H-24 and have the same 1TB storage, optical output, and RF remote. I am only a customer for 3 weeks, would they take back my H-24 , give me an HR-24 instead, and bill me $100 for the difference?
It can't hurt to call and ask.
cough cough ebay cough cough
$10 to your door if you don't care about the (completely worthless IMHO!) 2 way "X" model and just get an RC64R.
It can't hurt. If it were me I'd call. All they can do is say no.
Tell them you need the other output and offer to pay the difference. You may very well not get an HR24 though, they won't promise you that. But whichever DVR you get it will have the output that you want.
Thank you for the tips. I think DTV was very fair about it. They couldn't change out my H-24 for an HR24 for $99, but they did agree to reimburse me $15 for the optical converter I had to buy. I have to give DTV high marks for that, but I was really surprised they didn't put it on the H24 but did put it on the HR24.
I really do need an RF remote for my H24 receiver. What is the difference between buying a RC65RX and a RC64R, in terms of function and cost?
(I just checked on ebay, and the RC64R costs $10 and the RC65RX costs $13, delivered.)
The RC65RX is a bi-directional remote. It will communicate with the Hx24 to setup for you TV. You pick out our TV off the list from the Info & Test menu and then it send that info to your remote.
This does not work with the Hx20-23; only the 24 series receivers.
The RC65RX is a bi-directional remote. It will "most of the time" communicate with the Hx24 to not setup for you TV. You pick out our TV off the list from the Info & Test menu and then it tries to send that info to your remote. You sit there and try all the codes as it fumbles to program the remote for you without success as you wade through all the codes, then finally near the end of 10 or 15 codes, you find one that works and you're all set.
Unless you are lucky enough to have your model listed in the remote menu and it can program without trying a dozen codes, it is much faster to just hit mute+select, 9911, chan+ until the tv shuts off, then select, then mute+selet, then 960.
Other than that, the RC64 and RC64X are the same thing
Yeah, that's a fair, realistic view of how the RC64X works.
$99. To hit that price point, they had to leave it off. Since there are geeks like me that prefer coax to optical, it made sense to leave the "better" connector on the unit, especially when there is a low cost aftermarket solution to the problem.
I'm almost surprised by the credit. You'd think it would cost them less to buy a thousand of the converters and send you one no charge when this issue comes up.
There is absolutely no difference in the digital sound quality of a coaxial digital output vs. an optical digital output. It would make sense to use the more popular output, and I am almost certain that is the optical output. Samsung uses that exclusively, and they are a major player in the field. DTV probably saved $3 by not including it, and another $5 by not including an RF remote, which I order seperately for $13 from ebay. They figure most people won't notice or care.
That's true, but if I didn't get a couple of toslink cables from a buddy I would have gone with coax, only because they’re cheaper than the optical cables...about a quarter to a third the price.
I think it's all academic anyway. Neither Coax or Toslink will support Dolby Digital Plus, TrueHD, or DTS HD audio. You need HDMI for these. IMHO, that’s where we’ll be in a few years and these low bandwidth SP/DIF audio connections will go away.
Many in the audiophile community would disagree with you.
It's academic, anyway. As Mike points out, the digital output on this piece is a legacy one.
Audiophiles used to take that position but not so much these days. The jutter from timing issues is only via PCM. DD is self timing and the current the optical interfaces are designed to eliminate jutter.
The only real advantage of digital coax SP/DIF has is cost. Otherwise, as it is these days, I have to agree that for all intents and purposes they are identical.
Someone should start a thread on the ridiculous pricing of HDMI and Toslink cables. At the various discount stores like Best Buy and CompUSA, HDMI cables range in price from $20 to $60 for a six-foot cable. Toslink cables go for $20-$30.
I ordered through Amazon.com and got a very good HDMI cable for $2.39 and brand new Toslink cable for $2.47.
Best Buy actually makes more money on the cables that they sell than on some of the TVs that they practically give away on sale.
The retail cable rip off has been a much discussed topic, most here use monoprice or bluejeans but I recently bought some from Amazon that were at a good price. You're right about optical being more popular. I prefer coax because when I step on it it doesn't break.
I wish there were some kind of standard. I just tried to hook up my PC to the Stereo System in my office. Sure enough, the computer sound card output is coaxial and the JVC Stereo System input is optical.