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Step-by-Step Router/Bridge/HR2x Network Configuration Doc

Discussion in 'DIRECTV Tips and Resources' started by Spanky_Partain, Sep 17, 2007.

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  1. Oct 25, 2007 #61 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    The Linksys AP is doing just exactly what it is suppose to do. If it does not have a setting on there to change it from an access point to a bridge type device, it wiill not work. I do know the dd-wrt.com has firmware for the AP that will give you the option to use it as a bridge, but I have never tried it.

    The requirements for wireless connections are a bridge type device ONLY!

    An access point takes a wireless signal like from your laptop and then routes it out the RJ45 jack and the other end of the connection from that plugs into the router. That is not what you are trying to do. What you are trying to do is just the oposite. You want the RJ45 jack to be the incoming signal from the HR20 and wireless TX/RX to the wireless router.
     
  2. Oct 25, 2007 #62 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    The game adapter should come with a setup disk that should change the IP of the computer you are using to be able to set the game adapter up. Not sure if it comes with default IP settings that you can just hit with a browser since it is not a common item like a router is.
     
  3. Oct 25, 2007 #63 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    I can promise you that this document is correct as far as the hardware and how it works on the HR20-xxx and HR21-700(just added, thanks). If you saw something different, then please let me know exactly where it is so it can be corrected. This is a forum, it has humans putting this information in, you know what that means. I have made a few mistakes myself and thank you for your question, but this time post #1 in this thread is correct on how the network chipsets function.

    Here was my post in the HR21-700 First Look thread about the network and how it works. http://www.dbstalk.com/showpost.php?p=1219070&postcount=32
     
  4. Oct 25, 2007 #64 of 456
    vandergraff

    vandergraff Legend

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    Thanks again for your work in putting this thread together. I was only asking because I saw the 'HR21 First Look' at http://hr20.dbstalk.com/docs/hr21_firstlook.pdf

    This is where I saw the quote ''Ethernet Ports: 2 - same as HR20-100, not same as HR20-700; bottom port is "pass-through" so a 2nd networked device can be connected here.'

    Anyway I'll try it and see.
     
  5. Oct 25, 2007 #65 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    Thanks, I don't think it is very clear. When they say Ethernet Ports: 2 - same as HR20-100; it is meant that the HR20-100 has two RJ45 ethernet ports, but the First Look HR20-100 says that only port one is enabled and we know that has not changed as of yet on the HR20-100.
     
  6. Oct 27, 2007 #66 of 456
    jmhga44

    jmhga44 Mentor

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    Whoever put this information together deserves a lot of kudos! I've played with network stuff a little but wasn't real sure of how I could network my HR20-700 with my PC until I started rooting around in this thread. I've got a few questions based on what I've read -

    1). Presently I have a wired network with a Linksys BEFSR41 router with 2 PC's in a office and my HR20-700 is in the next room (living room). I admit to being a little hesitant of running a wire from my office to the living room so I was thinking of replacing the router with a wireless one. Your writeup had recommended a Linksys WRT54GS wireless router and I was thinking of pairing it with the Buffalo Tech WLI-TX4-G54HP wireless Ethernet Converter (it was also mentioned in your article) which would be hooked up to my HR20-700. If I get those devices and hook everything up according to your PDF doc on Routers/Bridges is that all I would need?

    2). I also see a mention of a Buffalo Technology Wireless WHR-G125 in your article with one of them configured as a Router and the other configured as a Bridge. Could that combination work as well as what I mentioned in #1 above?

    3). Assuming I get everything hooked up and talking via the network would it then be possible to record content from the HR20-700 hard drive to the DVD recorder on your PC?

    Your insight on the above would be greatly appreciated.
     
  7. Oct 27, 2007 #67 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    Hello fellow Texan...

    Yes, the will be all you need as far as hardware. That should work. I do reccommend that you ALWAYS check the OEM and make sure you have the latest firmware for the equipment. I had to update mine to get the UPnP portion to work correctly.

    Yes, there was a user on the forum who reported using that exact setup, one as a router and one as a bridge.

    That would be an excptional dream to come true. I am afraid not. The network is used for sharing pictures/music from the PC and using it to download movies/shows from Directv using the VOD/DOD service.

    I am glad the post helped you and it makes me happy when I have helped someone and they appreciate it. I am always updating the post, so check back if you have other questions, the answer may show up in this post.

    Have fun, if I can help again, please ask!
     
  8. Oct 27, 2007 #68 of 456
    BillyBob_jcv

    BillyBob_jcv Legend

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  9. Oct 28, 2007 #69 of 456
    jmhga44

    jmhga44 Mentor

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    I appreciate the info on my questions and found from one of your answers that one idea I had got shot down (being able to record to DVD from HR20-700 on PC over the network). Oh well..it's worth a shot.

    :confused: :confused: :confused: I'm asking for some help after a few hours of frustration on trying to get the WLITX4G54HP to work with the WRT54GS router. I've upgraded the firmware on both the router and the Buffalo WLITX4G54HP and the network cannot see the HR20-700 nor can the router see the WLITX4G54HP as another device. I went back to the default settings on the HR20-700 and noticed when I tried to connect that the settings were as follows -

    IP Address - 169.254.12.17
    Subnet Mask - 255.255.0.0
    Default Gateway - blank
    DNS - blank
    Network - Connected
    Internet - Not Connected

    I went through the doc attached to your post and as far as I know I didn't miss anything on the WRT54GS setup. I also hooked up the WLITX4G54HP directly to my PC and went through the setup for it also and made sure that I added the settings that the router setup recommended. I also found a couple of things to try from the Buffalo site (setting the MAC address to the first connected wired device, setting frame bursting to "Disable") and that didn't help either. What am I missing? :confused: :confused: :confused:

    BTW..the Austin/San Antonio area has always been one of my favorite parts of Texas. I've still got friends in San Antonio and try to get down there when I can. I'm about an hour north of Dallas myself.
     
  10. Oct 28, 2007 #70 of 456
    generalpatton78

    generalpatton78 Godfather

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    Default Gateway - blank
    DNS - blank

    You need to assign these if they don't get updated automatically. My router is 192.168.1.1. Find out what your is and enter that number in Default Gateway and DNS.
     
  11. Oct 28, 2007 #71 of 456
    wmccain

    wmccain Legend

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    I have a couple of HR20-700 units successfully connected to the network. My home network is fairly straightforward — all hard-wired 100baseT. My external DSL connects to a (very common) Netopia router, which in turn connects to a rack-mounted TRENDnet 16-port switch. Runs from the TRENDnet go throughout the house.

    The problem is that the run to the home theater is further split by a D-Link model DSS-5+ 5-port switch, and the HR20 in the home theater does not like it. If I bypass the D-Link 5-port switch (disconnecting the run from the TRENDnet switch and using a coupler to connect that run directly to the run to the HR20), it all works just fine. (My router doles out a DHCP address, all tests are successful, etc.).

    BUT, if I connect the HR20 to my network through the D-Link switch, the HR20 re-assigns its port with some oddball internal network address, changes the subnet mask, and clears the gateway (router) address. The connectivity test to my network still "succeeds", but the HR20 "fails" to connect to the Internet!

    The D-Link switch services other devices in my home theater successfully (an old TiVo Series2 and a Sony SXRD front projector). The TiVo has no problem accessing the Internet to download guide info (and firmware updates). But I've tried all kinds of HR20 reboots (with and without the network connected at reboot time) and nothing helps — the HR20 always goes bonkers when the D-Link switch is in the chain.

    I expect I can eliminate the problem by replacing the D-Link switch with a simple Ethernet hub (if I can find it in my attic). After all, a hub is just a simple "electrical splitter" that swaps the send and receive lines between its "uplink port" and its other inputs (and provides proper signal amplification and isolation). Unlike a switch, a hub does not fiddle with the data packets in any way ...

    William C. McCain
    Palo Alto, California
     
  12. Oct 28, 2007 #72 of 456
    wmccain

    wmccain Legend

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    Forgot to mention: The problem with the cascaded D-Link 5-port switch occurred initially when the HR20-700 in my home theater had the 0x18A firmware. So I upgraded to the latest 0x1B9 "cutting edge" firmware and that did not fix the problem. Still happens, just like before.

    Bill
     
  13. Oct 28, 2007 #73 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    Thanks, I added this into the known working hardware list!

    So now the big question, are the on the same subnet?

    That means make sure the the first three set of numbers match and if they don't then you need to change the subnet mask. Check out this part of post number one titled "Network IP Addresses and Subnet Mask Usage".
     
  14. Oct 28, 2007 #74 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

    Spanky_Partain Active Member

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    You are correct on what the hub and switch are doing, but the swtich does provide the proper uplink information instead of broadcasting to everyone each time a packet is sent. I recommend using the switch and suggest changing the IP scheme of the HR20 to static and assign an address to thr HR20 that is not in your DHCP range. I have seen this in other setups that the DHCP just does not seem to work well in some environments on the HR20. It could be a bug on the HR20 and I also recommend writing an issue in the issue thread if assigning the static IP address works. Be sure and include the layout of the network, the setup, the type of equipment + model number, and the issue.

    Good luck, let me know if this gets resolved or if you need more assistance.
     
  15. Oct 28, 2007 #75 of 456
    jmhga44

    jmhga44 Mentor

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    I went in the HR20-700 and changed the subnet to be the same as the local network (255.255.255.0) and also plugged in the Default Gateway and DNS from my router information and tried to connect again. It flags the IP address (regardless of what value is there) and the Default Gateway values with a yellow triangle with an "!" in it and doesn't go any further. I also just realized that I haven't gotten the latest software upgrade on the HR20-700 yet (it's presently at 0x18a) and wonder if that's making any difference.
     
  16. Oct 28, 2007 #76 of 456
    jmhga44

    jmhga44 Mentor

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    I think I just figured it out! I went back into the router setup and added the MAC address of the HR20-700 and tried to connect again.. Believe it or not I got a successful connection! :D I guess the next question is what can I do since I've got a connection now?

    Thanks again for your help!
     
  17. Oct 28, 2007 #77 of 456
    wmccain

    wmccain Legend

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    Actually, assigning a static IP address (in the "Advanced Setup" menu) was the very first thing that I tried, when this did not work. Back before I discovered that it does work if I bypass the D-Link 5-port switch. Using a static IP address (and manually entering subnet, gateway, etc.) made no difference. It still failed with the second-level switch installed.

    Bill
     
  18. Oct 28, 2007 #78 of 456
    Spanky_Partain

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    Bill, I am not sure what is going on here. It does not make sense that the switch would do this by design and definition. Is this switch managable? Does it have a serial port on it so you can log into the switch?
     
  19. Oct 28, 2007 #79 of 456
    wmccain

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    I decided not to try one of my old hubs (from my attic full of "retired junk"). My old hubs are only rated at 10 Mbps, and (unlike switches), hubs cannot negotiate the speed. On my current 100 Mbps network, such a hub would likely be used beyond its rated bandwidth ... which might or might not work, but even if it did work who knows how much "retry action" would be going on?

    The original D-Link (model DSS-5+) is an "el cheapo" (under $20), no serial port or other diagnostic capability.

    So I went to Fry's and brought back all four inexpensive 5-port switches they had: Linkys, Netgear, AirLink, and a (newer model) D-Link (model DES-1105). Tried the new D-Link first, since it was cheapest ($15.00) and it worked perfectly. Swapped back in the older-model D-Link, and it failed again, exactly like before ... back to the new one, no problemo.

    So ... the older-model D-Link must have a subtle defect, it must be slightly "out of spec" in the way it massages the packet headers. Not enough "out of spec" to bother the Sony projector or the TiVo Series2, but enough to bother the HR20-700.

    The newer D-Link is about the same size as the old one, and at first I thought it would even fit the same mounting screws that I had on an inside vertical wall of my cabinets ... but no such luck, I had to relocate one of the screws :mad:

    Now to take the other three unopened switches back to Fry's ...

    Bill
     
  20. Oct 28, 2007 #80 of 456
    jtn

    jtn Banned User

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    Thank you for the test, I will buy that model to setup my network with my HR20's, I haven't connected them yet, waiting to see what others have tried.
     
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