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The official "ask veryoldschool" thread

Discussion in 'DIRECTV Connected Home' started by Stuart Sweet, Jan 8, 2012.

  1. Jan 23, 2012 #81 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    So it sounds like you have terminations on the splitter where cables aren't connected.
    In the picture the single connector at the top is the input, which connects to the SWiM.
    If you have a "standard install", you most likely have two 8-ways, which would look like the splitter in the lower right.
    Looking at the 4-way in the upper right, you can see the one open port on the left, with three terminations on the ports to the right [the four on the bottom], so you'll need a 7/16 wrench to loosen and remove these where you have to connect a cable.
     
  2. Jan 23, 2012 #82 of 824
    HDJulie

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    Ok, thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know :). Now I'm just waiting for the HR34 to get the new guide before getting one.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2012 #83 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    The other thing in the picture are the black rubber weather boots that cover the threads.
     
  4. Jan 23, 2012 #84 of 824
    scubasteve

    scubasteve Cool Member

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    Thanks VOS - I will make sure the epvc is 6 inches or so shy of the eave to leave room to install the terminal block with ground. Nice to know I can save a little money and have one less point of potential failure in the home.

    Cheers

    Steve
     
  5. Jan 23, 2012 #85 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    Not sure where your ground point is, but I'd want mine to be closer to the "dirt". Maybe a breakout box before it runs up the wall.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2012 #86 of 824
    scubasteve

    scubasteve Cool Member

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    That would be easy enough to add. Not sure whether code requires it right at the entry point or not (its about 14' up) But it won't hurt to have the box there and then let the installer do whats necessary for code etc:)

    The nice thing about the steel house - the whole thing is a ground. The rebar in the slab extends out and has been grounded, and the structure attached to ground as well. Since I live in the lightning capital of the world good ground is a necessity

    -s
     
  7. Jan 30, 2012 #87 of 824
    satelliteguy5556

    satelliteguy5556 New Member

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    Hey VOS, first of all you seem to really be on top of the game. I work for Directv, and volunteered to do a presentation on the built in self test. I've experimented with it the last few weeks, but the research I've attempted online doesn't seem to get me very far.

    I just want to be a little more in-depth with my explanations. I have researched the different types of memory being tested, but have no idea what those memories affect (EEPROM, SDRAM and I'm also showing how to clear NVRAM to speed up nonresponsive DVRs). Maybe a cross reference for symptoms/problems with the different memories would help. I also know it tests the HDMI connection, but is it just testing the driver? If there is no signal to the TV could you still test it through component for example as long as HDMI is still connected?

    Sorry so long, I just want to be able to answer the tough questions that I'm sure will follow. Any help or direction to a solid source would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
     
  8. Jan 30, 2012 #88 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    EEPROM is Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory, which is where the firmware is stored.
    SDRAM is like a PC's memory, and used for the processes.
    NVRAM, is "non-volatile memory", which keeps its data when the power cord is removed. Things like your zipcode for active channels are stored here.
    As for the rest of the test results, I'd need to do what you've been doing to see what the results are.
    These are basically a pass or call for a replacement, since there isn't anything to fix in the field.
     
  9. Jan 30, 2012 #89 of 824
    satelliteguy5556

    satelliteguy5556 New Member

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    Thank you so much for the quick reply. This is very helpful (as I knew it would be). I'd researched what the different types of memory were, but couldn't find anything specific that they were for. I figured the firmware had to be eprom, but I'm still curious why clearing the nv speeds up slow dvrs. Thanks again for the help. Another tech actually directed me to you.
     
  10. Jan 30, 2012 #90 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    I think we all are. :lol:
    It seems some of the things like scoreguide are loading and not clearing themselves out of memory, when they should. This is just a guess on my part.
     
  11. Jan 30, 2012 #91 of 824
    satelliteguy5556

    satelliteguy5556 New Member

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    Good theory. I will go with that lol. Better than my 'magic' theory. Thanks again VOS.
     
  12. Feb 2, 2012 #92 of 824
    wallfishman

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    veryoldschool you have a router in one room hooked up to a broadband deca. in another room its a hard to get to spot for wiring there is only the sattelitte line going to a receiver deca then to an HR23 HDDVR. my question is in that room say I want to put a switch to do an XBOX, A dvd player, an internet TV etc. Can I put a 2 way splitter, one side to a receiver deca to a switch and one side to a receiver deca to the HR23. would that work oh wise one?
     
  13. Feb 2, 2012 #93 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    It would work, and of course not be a supported method, but you're also adding the splitter loss in, so the SAT/SWiM signal will be lower.
    Another way [again unsupported] would be to do this:
    [​IMG]

    The SAT levels stay the same, the increased traffic would be the same as using two DECAs, so it might be a better [and cheaper] option.
     
  14. Feb 3, 2012 #94 of 824
    wallfishman

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    now say the same receiver in the picture is a HR24.. u could still use the receiver deca to send internet to the switch but just wouldnt need the line going from the switch to the ethernet port of the 24 right ?
     
  15. Feb 3, 2012 #95 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    The 24s disable their internal DECA when the ethernet port is connected, and they can't power a white DECA, so the wireless CCK would be a better option. Don't activate the wireless function and use its ethernet port like this:
    [​IMG]

    This also keeps the SAT/SWiM levels the same and lets you add an ethernet port.
     
  16. Feb 3, 2012 #96 of 824
    DaBearsfan

    DaBearsfan New Member

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    Hi VOS,

    I am upgrading my system to a SWM16. Currently have 2 HR20-700's and an HR21-200 and a H23-600. These are all ran off of a WB68. I have OTA diplexed to the 700's. I am also running MRV through my home Ethernet. I plan to add an HR34 in the near future so I need the additional tuners. I also am planning that after the SWM is in place to move the MRV to DECA to get it off my network. I understand that when I do that I can no longer diplex the OTA signals via the SWM

    This weekend is step one beginning with upgrading to the SWM. I think I have the steps down.

    • Power down the receivers
    • Disconnect the Sat and receiver connections from the WB68
    • Remove the BBC's from the receivers
    • Install SWM16 and reconnect the Sat connections to the SWM
    • Add a 4 port splitter off of SWM1 and use a single coax line to each receivers
    • Run a coax from the PI-29 (red port) to the DC/PWR port of the SWM16
    • Power up the SWM
    • Power up the receivers
    Seems pretty simple. But having your knowledgeable eyes take a look and comment would give me great comfort!

    One question I had is there any restriction on the length of the coax between the PI29 and the SWM16 DC/PWR port? I have seen discussion of their being a minimum of 15' required at one point.

    Another question I had was when I do move the MRV to DECA cloud does the BB DECA connection to the internet count as a tuner when I add it to the splitter off of one of the SWM ports?
     
  17. Feb 3, 2012 #97 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    When you use the DC/PWR port there isn't a minimum distance, and the max should be fairly long [maybe over 100'], as I've used close to 100' for a SWiMLNB.

    I don't know why the question of a DECA counting as a tuner keeps coming up, as DECA and SWiM have no interaction, but no they don't count as a tuner.

    "Seems like" you're set for your weekend's work, and about the only thing to cause any issues would be the connectors, so check/inspect them before reusing [SOP].
     
  18. Feb 3, 2012 #98 of 824
    DaBearsfan

    DaBearsfan New Member

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    Thank you VOS, I appreciate your thoughts and guidance!
     
  19. Feb 3, 2012 #99 of 824
    TheFigurehead

    TheFigurehead AllStar

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    I am getting around to upgrading my SWiM 8 to a SWiM16... Currently, my SWiM8 is located outside near my service entrence. I am currently using my Cat5 network for whole home connectivity. But with the SWiM16, I was hoping to just enable deca and get that DTV traffic off of my network. I was planning to just pull the 4 wires from my SL5 into my house and connect everything in my utility closet. Problem is, the DTV installer gave me virtually no extra coax outside, leaving me with a delima... is there a lesser of 2 evils here?

    1) Just swap out the SWiM8 and SWiM16, leaving it outside of my house. And pull an additional coax cable from the SWiM16 to feed the 2nd leg of the switch.

    2) Use coax extender/coupler outside and pull 4 additional wires into my house, placing my SWiM16 indoors.

    Thoughts?
     
  20. Feb 3, 2012 #100 of 824
    veryoldschool

    veryoldschool Lifetime Achiever Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Club

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    If the location is "somewhat" sheltered, then I'd go with keeping it outside, instead of adding barrels/jumpers that are just another point for water to get in, and moving it inside.

    It still may end up "six of one, half a dozen of the other". :shrug:
     

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