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Discussion in 'DIRECTV Connected Home' started by Gary16, Feb 6, 2012.
Not much has changed other than the price going up for the upgrade.
The H24, H25, HR24 and HR34 have DECA built in to the units. All other receivers/dvr's require a DECA adapter whether the original in white or the newest DECA adapter that is black. White and black seen at the url below with the 4 pictures under customer images from Chris:
I would recommend the supported method and make sure to include a CCK either wired or wireless.
I used Amazon and Solid Signal for illustrative purposes only. There are many places to purchase these and other items for your DirecTV system. There is a great amount of information about the supported method but one of my recommendations is a great resource that no one should ignore. Very Old School!!!:wizardhat
Many times a simple restore network defaults will fix the issue, other times I've had to reboot the receiver but betwwen those two I've always been able to get the network working with whole home.
Dumb question, but is this the same wired CCK as you linked at Solid Signal? If so $50 isn't too rich for my blood to go to DECA.
Went ahead and tried both, didn't work.
That is the same DECA. You'll need more for your receivers "and" you need to have a SWiM system with the green labeled splitters for everything to work.
The next thing is to try the factory reset on the router [after you find the login and password it reverts back to].
Yeah, I'll try the factory reset soon. I don't have green splitters, I have the white DirecTV-branded ones (though I read here at the time of the green rollout that the white seemed to work fine). I'll be honest and tell you that if I end up getting the DECA equipment I probably won't swap out the splitters.
Then I can be honest and tell you that you'll have maybe 15 dB more loss to deal with to get DECA to work.
Since your splitters are the old type, your SWiM most likely is too, so figure to also get a bandstop filter to go between the splitter and the SWiM.
Ouch, that big a difference? I guess I'd best get this ethernet thing working because swapping out splitters will probably be impossible.
If you are using MAC filtering in your router, make sure the MAC addresses for the DVRs are in the routers list.
I fixed the problem.
I have no idea why it happened, but the router stopped dolling out the reserved IPs to the DVRs. It showed them connected and under the correct reserved IPs but when you went to Settings > Network Setup > Advanced Setup on the DVRs, it showed an address beginning with 164.254. which is an internal IP that gets assigned when the DHCP fails.
When I tried manually entering the expected IP into the field it would attempt to connect and go back to a random 164.254 address. The resolution was to remove the reservations and delete the leases for the MAC addresses in the router. Then I ran Restore Defaults on both DVRs which forced the router to reassign new IPs to the DVRs and both acquired a real internal IP (as shown in Advanced Setup) and whole-home worked.
Thanks for your help, guys!
Wanted to post and get some opinions on an upcoming install that is scheduled for next week. A little background, I have been doing small sats since they come out and for the most part have always done most of my installs, since I am picky and most techs that they send out are not, anyway I am a network designer by day, so lets say my internal network is quite interesting, lol.
Currently I have an hr20-700 (with off air antenna) and hr22-100 with MRV in unsupported mode, I was originally on the initial beta and just signed up and have been running ever since, solid no issues. I currently do not have any multi-switches or swim, although it appears in their system it shows that I do. I have the slime-line dish with 4 coax's and have 2 going to hr20 and 2 of them going to my hr22.
Now I was offered and I am going to upgrade my hr20 with an hr 34, I am after the more tuners since I have kids and we sometimes have recording conflicts. Now I have read and read and think I understand most of the pieces but wanted some clarification and verification that I am thinking correctly.
I told the D* CSR that I did not have swim, even though the system said I did, so he noted that they would note that in the system, since I need swim for the hr34. The tech will probably want to install a swim8 but I am wanting a swim16 in case I want to add an additional receiver down the road the swim8 will not be able to handle the additional tuners. Will this be an issue, or something I should call them about now before the tech comes out?
MRV, I understand the tech will probably want to do a standard deca installation, attach one to the hr22 and cck on the hr34, but from my reading I do/will not need the cck on the hr34 since it can do both. My question is do I need the deca module on the hr22, what I have yet to fully read and understand is with the HR34 will it do MRV over the ethernet or only do it over the coax? I have read that the HR24 will turn off MRV if the ethernet is connected to the receiver but wondering since the hr22 does mrv out the ethernet can it talk to the hr34 via ethernet?
Why ethernet vs deca, just since it is solid and I can repair, correct fix ethernet much quicker then trying to figure out what is going one with deca modules etc....in the end if I need to go with deca I will, but was wondering if it would work with ethernet...
Sorry for the long post ..Thanks
If you're replacing the HR20 with a HR34, then a SWiMLNB will be used, as you're within the 8 tuner limit. They don't future proof your system with a SWiM-16.
You like ethernet, so you can keep it. The HR34 doesn't disable its internal DECA like the other models do, so you may need to have a bandstop filter added to block the DECA signal.
But that means they are gonna pull the four wires coming off the dish out from my house, or leave them hanging....I don't want to go down that path, why not just add the swim8 instead of the LNB option....I have four good lines already installed and working...I understand about the future proof, but I would think a swim8 would be about the same, correct?
I'd let them set you up with deca. There's is no real downside for you, worst case scenario, you do as vos suggests latter, and remove the deca at the HR22 and replace it with a band stop filter and use Ethernet only.
They will also use a cck. You can always disconnect that and hook up the Ethernet to the HR34, since it will bridge the system to your network that way as well, and then have an extra spare part. If you are networking guru, I'd guess you have all kinds of spare parts around, and I don't think it ever hurts to have spare parts.
As for worrying about working on a deca system if an issue arises, hey, vos is always around! seriously, ask here and someone has probably dealt with any situation.
And I wouldn't worry about a swim16 for future proofing. If Yeager upgrade with another reciever that pushes your tuner number past 8 they will include a swim16 at that time.
The LNB retails for $80-90, where the SWM8 is $120
The SWM8 is only used when the world direct dish needs to be combined.
Just have them do some nice wire mantnice for the wires, and then it won't look any different than if they where being used.
Yeah I know its about cost, so being anal like I am, I will probably end up pulling the two wires out, or coiling them up out of the way above the drop celing, since correct me if I am wrong, but the only way to go past 8 tuners requires the swim16 and that requires four wires, correct?
Yep, just tuck them away for future use.