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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Tower Installation


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34 replies to this topic

#26 OFFLINE   brant

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Posted 17 July 2008 - 07:04 AM

i'm not sure the lighting is going to know or care how far apart the rods are; its looking for the path of least resistance. the NEC requires 6', and to get away with doing otherwise usually requires the services of an engineer.

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#27 OFFLINE   babzog

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Posted 17 July 2008 - 09:08 AM

I was surfing around last night to see if there were any considerations of one type of rod vs another. Seems that acid soils require the use of galv. rods (acid eats the copper) and alkaline soils require the use of copper rods. A soil map of my area seems to indicate that the soils are typically acidic. Will need to test further to verify.

Bury it all .. great! :)

Reason for pondering the 3 ought cable (for the leg-rod connections) is to provide a nice path to ground as I would think a strike would vaporize the #6, but if #6 is sufficient, I'll go with that.

Oddly, my calls to local electrical service suppliers are yielding results in line with HD. Sometimes HD is better, sometimes not. ie: they're better for galv. rods (by nearly $10 ea) but are lousy on wire prices. OTOH, I can only buy #10 ground wire by 1000' spool from the supplier and by the foot from HD. I'll be shopping around, picking up the components from here and there. :)

Internet service is via RG6 from the antenna to a standard cable modem with cat5 to my router.

Update: Just got word back from my ISP... they can run up to 300' of cable, so no worries! Woot!

#28 OFFLINE   brant

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Posted 17 July 2008 - 01:51 PM

you're not going to stop the power of a direct strike; 3/0 doesn't stand a chance any more than #6 (something that can vaporize the water inside of a nonconductive tree is going to cause massive damage to copper). you're trying to give a path for the transient voltages. #6 is certainly a better path than rg6. put surge suppression devices on your equipment in the house (the cable modem, receivers; tv's, etc. . .) and put inline surge suppressors on the coax.

just out of curiosity, do you know what type of wireless internet system you are on? mine is camvera; it doesn't work w/ a cable modem though. I have lmr400 coax coming from the antenna into a navini networks wirelss modem.

#29 OFFLINE   babzog

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 12:53 AM

Tested the soil today (let some soil soak in distilled water overnight and tested with the pool kit). Seems it's slightly alkaline (even though a soil map indicates the soils are generally acidic in my area). Oh well.. can't argue with test results. :) Copper rods it is.

Found a good site for calculating how much wire can fit in a conduit: Designing Conduit Runs

They don't mention though (other sites do) that you should subtract 15% off the allowable fill for each 90deg elbow. If I stick to 2 elbows, then the 1.5" conduit (as suggested earlier) will be perfect for up to 7 runs. If I go with three elbows, then I have to bump up to 2" conduit or reduce the # of runs.

Then it struck me... I could use one of these:
Posted Image
to connect to my vertical riser at the tower and then horizontally into the enclosure at the tower base. This should give me access for pulling, reducing the # of elbows to 2 and reduce my conduit size from 2" to 1.5" (saves me enough to buy a weatherproof box). I think it looks neater too, esp. when compared to a 90deg elbow arching over the edge of the foundation.

Do you foresee any problems with this approach?

#30 OFFLINE   babzog

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 01:00 AM

Hey Brant,

Do I know the type of wireless. Sorry, no I really have no idea, other than it's in the 5GHz range, employs a cable modem as my interface and uses pppoe on the network.

#31 OFFLINE   babzog

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 01:07 AM

I now have the materials (save the rods which I'll pick up tomorrow) to build up the grounding system. Picked up a pile of #6 for the bonding wires and some #3 for the tower leg - rod connections (made me feel a little better going to a slightly higher gauge). Couple of questions regarding attaching grounding wires to rods though, before I begin:

How many wire connections am I permitted per clamp?

Can I run the bonding wire from house to the tower and run around the ring using one contiguous piece of wire or should I cut the wire and separate the tower's ring wire from the ring-house wire (even though they'd still be clamped to the same rod)?

The supply house only had aluminum connectors (for attaching the copper to the galv tower legs). Are there are problems attaching aluminum to galv. metal?

How close should I drive a rod to a newly buried phone wire (that's been run to about 2yrd from the tower's foundation)? The phone line is going to be buried in the same trench as the conduit, which is the reason for routing it in this fashion.

Many thanks again!
Jon

#32 OFFLINE   brant

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 10:25 AM

leave the ground wire continuous; just loop it through the ground rod clamps.

i'm not a big fan of the aluminum connectors, but if that's all they had. . .

the rod is fine next to the phone line.

that pvc box you linked a pic of is called an LB. works fine.

#33 OFFLINE   Stuart Sweet

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 11:04 AM

As the original poster is talking about a DIRECTV dish, I'm moving this back to DIRECTV installation.
Opinions expressed by me are my own and do not necessarily reflect
those of DBSTalk.com, DIRECTV, DISH, The Signal Group, or any other company.

#34 OFFLINE   brant

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Posted 19 July 2008 - 01:12 PM

As the original poster is talking about a DIRECTV dish, I'm moving this back to DIRECTV installation.



huh? that's where its been since its inception.

#35 OFFLINE   kycubsfan

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:20 PM

Any progress of late? I'd like to see some pics of the finished product.




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