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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Experimental Small Slimline3 Dish


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462 replies to this topic

#451 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:35 PM

I just converted my Phase III RV dish to a Dish Network 1000.2. The readings with the 1000.2 are higher than from the Phase III, but the main difference I noted was that the 1000.2 dish was very, very much easier to align satisfactorily; I didn't have to do all the fiddling that was usually necessary with the Phase III to get reasonable readings.


Would you clarify please...

Did you put a DirecTV LNB on the 1000.2 dish, or did you change service providers?

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#452 OFFLINE   BennyGregg

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:22 PM

Would you clarify please...

Did you put a DirecTV LNB on the 1000.2 dish, or did you change service providers?


I had a Phase III with an SL3. I replaced the Phase III with a Dish 1000.2 and modified the 1000.2 to properly accept the SL3.

#453 OFFLINE   BennyGregg

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:07 PM

Note to the non-experts (like me): the tilt scale for DTv and Dish are not the same; in fact, they are backwards. The 90 degree reading for both is no tilt, but an 80 degree reading for Dtv on a DTv dish would be 100 degrees on a Dish Network dish.

#454 OFFLINE   Diana C

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 01:53 PM

Let me guess...DirecTV has 0 in the clockwise, and 180 in the counter-clockwise, direction (i.e. the tilt as seen from the perspective of the LNB, instead of the installer).

Dish Network Customer from 9/1998-11/2001
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Current setup:
DirecTV: HR34-700 (1TB) / HR24-100 (1TB) / HR24-500 (1TB) / HR21-700 (320GB) / HR21-100 (1TB) / 2 H25s / C41-500 / SWiM16 / Nomad / CCK

FiOS: 2 Tivo Roamio Pros (6 TB total) / 5 Tivo Minis attached via MOCA


#455 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 05 October 2012 - 05:05 PM

One concern just dawned on me.
I used a SWM3LNB, my concern is powering TV, H21 & PI off a power inverter.
Anyone have any thoughts on this!


... Let's split the difference and say 150 watts.
...a typical deep cycle marine battery rated at about 100 amp-hour
... you could run for about 4 hours on an inverter


I've done a number of tests since the original question and my answer were posted, and just wanted to post a quick update here in case someone searching finds this thread. Using an HR24-500 with an AM21 tuner, and a Samsung 46" LCD TV, which combined have a measured power draw of 205 watts, I got 4 hours powering them off a 400 watt inverter connected to a Sears size 27 marine deep cycle battery (rated 105 amp-hour at 20 hours). There was still some battery power left, and I'm sure I could have gone to at least 4.5 hours, but decided 4 hours was enough for the purposes of this test. The battery was fully charged at start, and measured 11.23 volts (still under load) at the end. It should easily power the system down to 11 volts, which I'm estimating would have given me another 30 minutes.

A similar test using a 1200 watt inverter powering two 100 watt incandescent light bulbs (200 watt load) connected to a similar sized but newer battery, gave me over 4.5 hours with an ending voltage (under load) of 11.29 volts. That inverter was connected to the battery using much larger power cables (less dc voltage loss between battery and inverter). Same battery and inverter gave me well over an hour with a 600 watt load.

#456 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:30 AM

I've done a number of tests since the original question and my answer were posted, and just wanted to post a quick update here in case someone searching finds this thread. Using an HR24-500 with an AM21 tuner, and a Samsung 46" LCD TV, which combined have a measured power draw of 205 watts, I got 4 hours powering them off a 400 watt inverter connected to a Sears size 27 marine deep cycle battery (rated 105 amp-hour at 20 hours). There was still some battery power left, and I'm sure I could have gone to at least 4.5 hours, but decided 4 hours was enough for the purposes of this test. The battery was fully charged at start, and measured 11.23 volts (still under load) at the end. It should easily power the system down to 11 volts, which I'm estimating would have given me another 30 minutes.

A similar test using a 1200 watt inverter powering two 100 watt incandescent light bulbs (200 watt load) connected to a similar sized but newer battery, gave me over 4.5 hours with an ending voltage (under load) of 11.29 volts. That inverter was connected to the battery using much larger power cables (less dc voltage loss between battery and inverter). Same battery and inverter gave me well over an hour with a 600 watt load.


Carl, thanks agian for your advice and research! I have not yet purchased a marine batt. Sunday we ran the car for the first 30 mins and had no problems with 3 more hours of running the tv, rcvr and pi! I was thinking about a portable generator or the deep cycle batt. I have 2 weeks to make my decession and your input has been a great value!
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#457 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:40 AM

Last time I forgot to take a pic of the front of the dish

!tailgate22b.jpg
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#458 OFFLINE   Matt9876

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 04:44 PM

Nice tail gate rig iceman2a, This is still the smallest most portable HD dish for DirecTV.

Many phase III/SL3 LNB conversions have been built this year, I even spotted one on a YouTube video.

#459 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 07:01 AM

Nice tail gate rig iceman2a, This is still the smallest most portable HD dish for DirecTV.

Many phase III/SL3 LNB conversions have been built this year, I even spotted one on a YouTube video.


Thanks Matt, and thank you for starting all of this! :D
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#460 OFFLINE   jmikestock

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:27 PM

I had a Phase III with an SL3. I replaced the Phase III with a Dish 1000.2 and modified the 1000.2 to properly accept the SL3.


When I built mine I laid out the profile of the DISH 1000.2 with the original LNB to tell me where I needed the SL3 horn to be placed. The idea is to place the 101 exactly where old DISH LNB was located. After some experimenting I found that stacking the DirecTV SL3 arm on top of the sawed off, DISH arm it gave me the approximate 3/4" lift I was looking for. Then, like Schneid says I tweaked it in and out to find the best signal.

After, first trying the Phase 3 route, I started working with this about three years ago and found the results to be far better. It is really pretty easy to do. The hardest part, if there was one, was coming up with a method of marrying the two dishes. This was easily solved by stacking the DirecTV arm on top of the DISH arm. This actually solved two problems at once. I now had a way to hold the SL3 horn (DISH and DirecTV much different) as well as a way to raise the LNB to the proper position.

#461 OFFLINE   jay8s

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Posted 02 November 2012 - 12:42 PM

What a great thread! I have been searching and thinking about this for years.

I just trolled craigslist and scored a free Phase III dish that I will be picking up tomorrow. I already had 2 LMB's sitting around. I was going to use the OLD oval dish that I had 15 years ago on its side and start playing with it, but think this will be an easier route. I can't wait for the next tailgate!! HDTV!!! Set up should be a breeze I am on the same Latitude line as Mizzou, so it cant get much easier.

THANKS!

#462 OFFLINE   TwoPhases

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 11:17 PM

Welcome to dbstalk jay8s!

#463 OFFLINE   AnEv942

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 02:48 PM

New member here. Awesome thread-lots of options. We are setting up for a camper, I only recently became aware of accessing our home service from camper so started looking around. I accendentally stumbled on this site & thread. The possibility of getting HD from this thread (Thanks MATT) down the road motivated me to find a 18x20 dish, still relitivley small. Got one locally, came with 3lb and a au9 head (with nub already ground off. I assume he tried to set up HD for shop but switched to slimline swm system and let Direct hook it all up. )

As we are still 6months out for contract fullment, will be using with the sd head untill then with a borrowed d12-500 reciever (accessing her service). At that time I'll redo the head & get another reciever for house (for camper). Hopefully- not sure, our system is swm so cant use the H25, The other H24 just for other reasons isnt an option. Plus could use another box for spare room.

I cobbled it together yesterday- wanted to test the sd head funtioned and I could find satellites (never done this before).

Hokey smoke-lil sensitive, spent 2+ hours finally gave up. Was thinking head problem untill I came back here. Was using on screen tone to dial in but on 110-could get 97%+ but 0 on 101 /119. Toned in on mid 101 transponder-bam got all 3. Had to tweak the 119 a bit and then passed 'validation'. Stoked-havent gotton TV here since the OTA digital switch- 600+ channles....

Wish I could proceed with the HD conversion but is a ways off. For now Ill concentrate on stand and cabeling etc. & painting the dish.
Anyway thats my intro...
I do have a few questions-probably (hopefully) exposing how little I know-this is all new to me.

One- would be the reciever programming. Switching reciever from house to camper and back requires setting up each time-IF the reciever isnt moved (just stays in camper) will just refocusing dish allow connecting without going thru setup/validation? Or mute- when not in use, the powering down for extended time/disconnecting dish cause revalidation anyway?

Second would be signal-ie trees etc. Would a single SD head be more likley/easier to get signal-& if so would it work on the 18x20 and IF it did worth carrying? Otherwise I was thinking carring the triple SD head as spare.

Lastly would be the dish assembly as thats what Im working on, specifically the boom. Ill be replacing all nuts with wing nuts and bolts with thumb screws for no tool adjustment/use. But arm needs to break down. Ive seen the hinge kit, but I want the arm and head removable. Could use pinned hinge. I may cut and weld on flanges. Curious if any one has drilled out the arm to bracket funny weld/pressed joint on the phase III. If those could be cleared would easily reassembly with bolts or clevis pins...

Well mostly since this thread has opened up my addtion of HDTV in the camper-really just wanted to shout out a thanks




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