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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Experimental Small Slimline3 Dish


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462 replies to this topic

#441 OFFLINE   schneid

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Posted 09 September 2012 - 07:44 AM

As this has been a 2-year project, I really don't remember. I would certainly test different lengths. I have put one fender washer between arms at the front, offset the arm a little left, and adjusted using the 99 and 103 rather than 101 to compromise for a better signal off them. I recently ditched the Phase III mount and swapped in a Dish 1000 one, 1-5/8" mast hole, found at the curb on my walk. 99 and 103 got better. A little tedious, but playing with spacers behind the upper then lower dish mount bolts would change the angles and I imagine have an effect. Next time I'm bored, I'll try that.

Every little push or pull has an effect. Your sweet-spot can only be obtained by trial and error. I am still searching for the sweetest spot but it works great already. Simply just an an academic exercise now.

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#442 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 05:47 PM

I have been real busy lately so tonite was the first chance I had to test my dish before using it on Sunday. It took about 15 mins but I got 97 on 101, 80 on 99 and 85 on 103. The key was ELV. I knew from reading I would need to point it higher I just was not pointing it high enough at first! Looking forward to having NFL ST in HD at the tailgate on Sunday:D
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#443 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 05:55 PM

One concern just dawned on me.
I used a SWM3LNB, my concern is powering TV, H21 & PI off a power inverter.
Anyone have any thoughts on this!
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#444 OFFLINE   schneid

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 06:26 PM

You might roll over to RVNet and ask the question. They have a lot of knowledge about operating off the grid.

http://www.rv.net/fo...gs/forum/38.cfm

#445 ONLINE   carl6

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 08:35 PM

H21 will probably be about 30 watts, PI will be less, maybe 20 watts (not sure). TV will be the biggest draw, perhaps in the range of 50 to 150 watts. Add them up, and you could be anywhere from 100 to 200 watts. Let's split the difference and say 150 watts.

That's going to translate into about 12.5 amp draw from your battery at 12 volts (rough math, and assuming very high efficiency inverter). So if you use a typical deep cycle marine battery rated at about 100 amp-hour and figure half that figure for real life, you could run for about 4 hours on an inverter (I would use a 400 watt inverter with this estimated load).

If four hours isn't enough, get a bigger battery, two batteries, or plan on charging them from time to time.

#446 OFFLINE   upsss

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 08:56 PM

Having used both, I'm convinced a "Dish" 1000.2 with an SL3 is the way to go.


Can you provide the total arm length you ended up using and how did you measure it, how critical is this length? How did you compensate for the offset of the thickness of the arm since you mounted the SL3 arm on top of the Dish arm.

Edited by upsss, 14 September 2012 - 02:44 AM.


#447 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 07:07 AM

H21 will probably be about 30 watts, PI will be less, maybe 20 watts (not sure). TV will be the biggest draw, perhaps in the range of 50 to 150 watts. Add them up, and you could be anywhere from 100 to 200 watts. Let's split the difference and say 150 watts.

That's going to translate into about 12.5 amp draw from your battery at 12 volts (rough math, and assuming very high efficiency inverter). So if you use a typical deep cycle marine battery rated at about 100 amp-hour and figure half that figure for real life, you could run for about 4 hours on an inverter (I would use a 400 watt inverter with this estimated load).

If four hours isn't enough, get a bigger battery, two batteries, or plan on charging them from time to time.


Thanks Carl! the power inverter is 400 watt! I was thinking about getting a marine battery. That's what I will try on Sunday!
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#448 OFFLINE   schneid

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 08:03 AM

Can you provide the total arm length you ended up using and how did you measure it, how critical is this length? How did you compensate for the offset of the thickness of the arm since you mounted the SL3 arm on top of the Dish arm.


From the front edge of dish to the end of the arm right at 18.5". I used a C-Clamp to move it small increments until I nailed it. 1/8" will make a big difference.

#449 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 18 September 2012 - 11:53 AM

So everything worked well on Sunday with the "frakenstien" dish!
About 2.5 hrs in the power inverter alerted me that the battery was getting low, had to run the car for about 20 mins and wait thru a reeboot. Lvls were a little low on 99 & 103, I probabaly could have spent more time tweeking but was impatient!


tailgate12b.jpg

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_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#450 OFFLINE   BennyGregg

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:12 PM

I just converted my Phase III RV dish to a Dish Network 1000.2. The readings with the 1000.2 are higher than from the Phase III, but the main difference I noted was that the 1000.2 dish was very, very much easier to align satisfactorily; I didn't have to do all the fiddling that was usually necessary with the Phase III to get reasonable readings.

#451 ONLINE   carl6

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 04:35 PM

I just converted my Phase III RV dish to a Dish Network 1000.2. The readings with the 1000.2 are higher than from the Phase III, but the main difference I noted was that the 1000.2 dish was very, very much easier to align satisfactorily; I didn't have to do all the fiddling that was usually necessary with the Phase III to get reasonable readings.


Would you clarify please...

Did you put a DirecTV LNB on the 1000.2 dish, or did you change service providers?

#452 OFFLINE   BennyGregg

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 06:22 PM

Would you clarify please...

Did you put a DirecTV LNB on the 1000.2 dish, or did you change service providers?


I had a Phase III with an SL3. I replaced the Phase III with a Dish 1000.2 and modified the 1000.2 to properly accept the SL3.

#453 OFFLINE   BennyGregg

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 12:07 PM

Note to the non-experts (like me): the tilt scale for DTv and Dish are not the same; in fact, they are backwards. The 90 degree reading for both is no tilt, but an 80 degree reading for Dtv on a DTv dish would be 100 degrees on a Dish Network dish.

#454 OFFLINE   Diana C

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 01:53 PM

Let me guess...DirecTV has 0 in the clockwise, and 180 in the counter-clockwise, direction (i.e. the tilt as seen from the perspective of the LNB, instead of the installer).

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#455 ONLINE   carl6

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Posted 05 October 2012 - 05:05 PM

One concern just dawned on me.
I used a SWM3LNB, my concern is powering TV, H21 & PI off a power inverter.
Anyone have any thoughts on this!


... Let's split the difference and say 150 watts.
...a typical deep cycle marine battery rated at about 100 amp-hour
... you could run for about 4 hours on an inverter


I've done a number of tests since the original question and my answer were posted, and just wanted to post a quick update here in case someone searching finds this thread. Using an HR24-500 with an AM21 tuner, and a Samsung 46" LCD TV, which combined have a measured power draw of 205 watts, I got 4 hours powering them off a 400 watt inverter connected to a Sears size 27 marine deep cycle battery (rated 105 amp-hour at 20 hours). There was still some battery power left, and I'm sure I could have gone to at least 4.5 hours, but decided 4 hours was enough for the purposes of this test. The battery was fully charged at start, and measured 11.23 volts (still under load) at the end. It should easily power the system down to 11 volts, which I'm estimating would have given me another 30 minutes.

A similar test using a 1200 watt inverter powering two 100 watt incandescent light bulbs (200 watt load) connected to a similar sized but newer battery, gave me over 4.5 hours with an ending voltage (under load) of 11.29 volts. That inverter was connected to the battery using much larger power cables (less dc voltage loss between battery and inverter). Same battery and inverter gave me well over an hour with a 600 watt load.

#456 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:30 AM

I've done a number of tests since the original question and my answer were posted, and just wanted to post a quick update here in case someone searching finds this thread. Using an HR24-500 with an AM21 tuner, and a Samsung 46" LCD TV, which combined have a measured power draw of 205 watts, I got 4 hours powering them off a 400 watt inverter connected to a Sears size 27 marine deep cycle battery (rated 105 amp-hour at 20 hours). There was still some battery power left, and I'm sure I could have gone to at least 4.5 hours, but decided 4 hours was enough for the purposes of this test. The battery was fully charged at start, and measured 11.23 volts (still under load) at the end. It should easily power the system down to 11 volts, which I'm estimating would have given me another 30 minutes.

A similar test using a 1200 watt inverter powering two 100 watt incandescent light bulbs (200 watt load) connected to a similar sized but newer battery, gave me over 4.5 hours with an ending voltage (under load) of 11.29 volts. That inverter was connected to the battery using much larger power cables (less dc voltage loss between battery and inverter). Same battery and inverter gave me well over an hour with a 600 watt load.


Carl, thanks agian for your advice and research! I have not yet purchased a marine batt. Sunday we ran the car for the first 30 mins and had no problems with 3 more hours of running the tv, rcvr and pi! I was thinking about a portable generator or the deep cycle batt. I have 2 weeks to make my decession and your input has been a great value!
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#457 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 09 October 2012 - 07:40 AM

Last time I forgot to take a pic of the front of the dish

!tailgate22b.jpg
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#458 OFFLINE   Matt9876

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Posted 10 October 2012 - 04:44 PM

Nice tail gate rig iceman2a, This is still the smallest most portable HD dish for DirecTV.

Many phase III/SL3 LNB conversions have been built this year, I even spotted one on a YouTube video.

#459 OFFLINE   iceman2a

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Posted 11 October 2012 - 07:01 AM

Nice tail gate rig iceman2a, This is still the smallest most portable HD dish for DirecTV.

Many phase III/SL3 LNB conversions have been built this year, I even spotted one on a YouTube video.


Thanks Matt, and thank you for starting all of this! :D
_______________
Slimline5 ODU
swm16
HR34/700/AM21
HR21-200
HR20/700
2 H21-200

#460 OFFLINE   jmikestock

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 01:27 PM

I had a Phase III with an SL3. I replaced the Phase III with a Dish 1000.2 and modified the 1000.2 to properly accept the SL3.


When I built mine I laid out the profile of the DISH 1000.2 with the original LNB to tell me where I needed the SL3 horn to be placed. The idea is to place the 101 exactly where old DISH LNB was located. After some experimenting I found that stacking the DirecTV SL3 arm on top of the sawed off, DISH arm it gave me the approximate 3/4" lift I was looking for. Then, like Schneid says I tweaked it in and out to find the best signal.

After, first trying the Phase 3 route, I started working with this about three years ago and found the results to be far better. It is really pretty easy to do. The hardest part, if there was one, was coming up with a method of marrying the two dishes. This was easily solved by stacking the DirecTV arm on top of the DISH arm. This actually solved two problems at once. I now had a way to hold the SL3 horn (DISH and DirecTV much different) as well as a way to raise the LNB to the proper position.




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