I tried both, the WNC seemed to fit better and 'seemed' easier to tweak settings but overall worked the same.
I believe the WNC and Eagle Aspen LNBs have mostly been discussed thus far in this thread. Here is some discussion and photos from working with the CalAmp 5 LNB & Eagle Aspen SL3 with the Phase III.
There are photos of a CalAmp 5lnb (model 151647) inserted into a Phase III 18x20" oval RCA dish arm posted here:http://www.dbstalk.c...7&postcount=164
I found that in the case of the CalAmp LNB, the holes line up such that the mounting bolts can be passed through to secure the lnb with the key flush against the arm without notching out the arm mouth for the key.
Photo 1 attached below is the same CalAmp 5lnb inserted into the same lnb arm after I drilled a hole in the center at the lnb arm mouth opening and cut out more metal to make a notch for the key to be inserted. However, I wasn't able to fully insert the lnb such that the f connector metal block was completely concealed within the arm. This was NOT due to the key since you can see from the photo I cut out extra space. Instead, the F connector block is rubbing against the inside of the arm where the mouth narrows. This happens even without any cables connected to the outside F connectors. Originally I thought the connectors on the ends of the RG6 cables on the outside connections might be interfering so I took all the cables off to check and determined it was the F connector block. Plus the scrape marks from hitting the inside of the arm were evident on the outside of the F connector block when I pulled it back out. Also, note that you can still see a bit of the mounting holes on the F connector block with it pushed in as far as it will go in this case. The mounting holes of the F connector block don't fully pass the holes of the arm (but almost). I was thinking of grinding/filing down the F connector block on the outside edge and/or notching/drilling out the arm mouth where it narrows in order to get the lnb fully seated, however I've noticed that by leaving some play you can angle the lnb downward more toward the center of the dish and produce better signal strength by getting more signal reflected down the throat of the feed horn. I initially posted this finding in another thread here in response to Doctor J:http://www.dbstalk.c...6&postcount=172
In that same thread I have posted more pictures which might be helpful for this project. See posts 161, 163, 164, & 165. Also, there are links to more lnb photos in post 173.
For the Eagle Aspen 5 LNB are you able to fully seat it within the arm with the entire F connector metal block concealed within the arm after notching the phase III arm? I was not able to fully insert the Eagle Aspen SL3 into the same phase III arm. In photo 2 attached below, that was as far as I could insert it. The F connector block for the Eagle Aspen SL3 is a bit larger than the CalAmp's so it hits the insides of the arm mouth and doesn't come as near to flush as does the CalAmp 5lnb. Interestingly, at full insertion the mounting holes are in line though - note the bolts passing through.
I wonder if the narrowing of the mouth on the lnb arm varies between dish manufacturers? I was working with a RCA phase III that is shown in the photos. Perhaps another make does not narrow as quickly as the RCA - that would be good to know.
LNB heads that work well in this phase 3 dish configuration.
Slimline 3 head with receiver set to slimline 3. "Best all around operation"
WNC AU9 5 LNB (white caps) with receiver set to slimline 3. "Very good operation"
Eagle Aspen (clear covers) 5 LNB with receiver set to slimline 3. " works good"
Use slimline setup numbers to do course alignment of 101 signal, use 99(c/a) and 103(c/a) meter readings to fine tune Ka band HD operation.
Use the normal screws/nuts in the pre drilled holes of the arm and LNB assembly, this alignment occurs when the LNB is inserted about half way.
EDIT:The highest Ka signal numbers so far is when the LNB is fully inserted and flush in the arm tube,secure with small self tapping screws just behind the predrilled holes on the bottom of the arm tube "away from the LNB" Do this only if you feel they are needed to secure the LNB head.
1/4 inch hex head 1/4 inch long self taping screws work best, this lands the screw in a safe place.
also drilling new holes in the tube arm at the correct place and using the normal hardware to secure the LNB is a great option as well.
The key on the bottom of the LNB must pass to the inside of the dish arm tube,this can be done with a flat blade screw driver or metal nipper to make a notch for the key to fit into.
Matt, I'm very curious on this point:" The highest Ka signal numbers so far is when the LNB is fully inserted and flush in the arm tube"
Can you confirm which LNB model(s) you were able to fully insert and get flush? Was this the case for both the Eagle Aspen 5 LNB and the WNC 5 LNB? If the Eagle Aspen 5lnb can be fully inserted then a) the F connector block must be different on the Eagle Aspen SL3 or
the lnb arm mouth opening must be different on the dish tested.
And which make dish were you inserting into? I am trying to determine/pinpoint if the variation is in the LNBs, the dish arms, or both. THANKS - Tad.