I've yet to try a Green WD drive that doesn't work on any of the HRs. The EARS is a good choice, I just paid $128 for one on Amazon, so Newegg's price is a good one.
You do need the BB converters unless you have a DECA system. Surprised you don't have one.
Yeah, I got them to send me some, and for whatever reason they are sending me a 6-pack of them.
DECA is not for me; all DVRs are in one room.
I had a EURS that I bought last September thinking I would need it for a HR20, but did not, so I am using that with a ThermalTake on this HR21. So far, so good. Of course last September was a bad time to buy due to the tsunami (they were up to $160 then), but that is when I thought I would need it. Slight miscue there.
They did not send a remote, either, which makes no real sense since I was replacing a HR10-250. If it were my company I would fix that today, and it would be simple to do; just have the CSR take down what model of DVR is being replaced. When shipping crosses that with whatever model they are shipping out, just put whatever is needed in the #%$-darned box. It's a no-brainer, isn't it?
That solves three problems for DTV:
1) One service call per replacement rather than two.
2) The illusion that they actually know what they are doing, which the current plan raises significant doubt regarding.
3) The cost of constantly overnighting BB converters and remotes.
Otherwise you have unhappy customers, increased service calls, and the perception that they are pretty far from actually knowing what they are doing or even possess the basic understanding of how to run a business. It's not brain surgery, so I am puzzled as to why they still have this issue, an issue they have had constantly since they started replacing HR10-250s in 2007. Its really disturbing that a company I have given my credit card number to has such a bush-league approach to DVR replacements. OK, back OT. Or, sort of.
This DVR replacement also allowed me to graduate from component to HDMI (the HR10 had a dead HDMI xmit board). I got a nice 4x2 switch with added analog audio out from Monoprice for about $58.
I have long stated (and it is still true) that component and HDMI have the exact same PQ, and that it is unlikely that component will degrade over short cables (also true). But what became problematic is that when you send 4 different untimed component signals into the same switchbox, the signals are so close together that they can interfere with each other interchassis, and I could briefly see a sync bar ghosting from one input to another on occasion, rolling slowly across the screen. HDMI fixes that.
So, although HDMI has the same PQ as component, if you are going to use an outboard component switch box, you may also have this problem, making HDMI a better choice specifically for that reason.
Edited by TomCat, 20 July 2012 - 07:26 PM.