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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Upgrading the internal hard drive on an HR24


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#161 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 11:57 AM

You forgot to inform us what exactly model of HR24 you have. -200 or -500 ? Or ?

{josh, what is that crazy things pictured on Flikr ? SF6 ? where you you bought that torx 5-star set ? }

Edited by P Smith, 02 December 2010 - 12:09 PM.


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#162 OFFLINE   bigjosh

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:10 PM

You forgot to inform us what exactly model of HR24 you have. -200 or -500 ? Or ?


{It was a 1TB from Weeknees, but it started off life as an HR24-500 when they got it. }


{josh, what is that crazy things pictured on Flikr ? SF6 ?


{SF6 is Sulfur Hexafloride, a *very* heavy gas.}


where you you bought that torx 5-star set ? }


{I got the torx 5-star set on Amazon.}

#163 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:21 PM

Thanks for Amazon hint; I know SF6 is a gas, but don't know how you'll use it ?

[Your pictures show very wide angle of interests - networks, wireless cameras hacking, the gas, torx, .... Man ! You're touching so many sides ! Like Mr. Q :) ]

#164 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:50 PM

My Weeknees-upgraded HR24 died shortly after recieving it. It would take hours to get past the "Check sat settings" screen, and once booted would quickly crash. Unfortunaly I assumed this was a problem with my connections and so took several months (at 20-30 hours per reboot cycle time goes fast) to finally contact Weekness and missed the 90 day cut-off for repairs.


That's one thing I never liked about Weaknees. That too short warranty. I went thru that a lot with TiVo HDDs. Spent a lot of money on HDDs that lasted six months.

They suggested trying an external drive and doing a disk scan. Interestingly, the external drive did not solve the problem, which suggests that the HR24 still uses the internal drive for something even if an external drive is connected. This goes against much of what I've read that the external drive will completely cover the internal drive if connected.


We had a discussion about the "held back" portion a short time ago. I came away from that discussion with the thought that the original purpose of that held back portion of every HDD had changed from content to actually doing something in conjunction with the OS on the flash drive. I remember Steve being very persuasive in that discussion.

I think your post is one of the first to confirm that opinion. It would seem logical that the internal HDD was damaged and was causing the problem with your 24-500. I don't see any other conclusion.

Rich

#165 OFFLINE   olident

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 02:31 PM

I've had problems with external eSATA enclosures not being recognized after a power outage (DVR comes up faster than external drives, so the DVR defaults to its internal drive). To avoid this, I put the drive on the inside.

Standard disclaimer: Only do this on an owned box or you void your lease terms.

I have added a 2TB internal drive to my HR24-500. After reading this forum, I thought I'd expand a little on the process, and in particular describe in more detail how the clasps holding the external cover work.

As has been noted in this thread elsewhere there are 6 latching points, two on each side, and two up front. You have to release the side latches before proceeding to the front latches. All are accessed from the bottom of the HR24.

With the HR24 turned upside down (case bottom facing up) and looking down at the outside cover edge at a spot where one of the side locking clasps is, there are two small slots with an ~ 1/4" blocked off space between them. In ASCII it looks something like this with the #1 and #3 at the open slots and the '=' being the bottom edge of the plastic case (treat all the '*' as empty space - they are just to keep ASCII spacing correct):

======*1*===*3*======

Looking at the same spot, but from the side of the case, (bottom of HR24 still to the top and using x-ray glasses) you'd see something like:

======***===***=== (HR 24 external cover bottom edge)
*********_2_****** (locking tab #2 in HR24 case, engaging plastic cover)
******_1_***_3_**** (unlocking tabs, #1, #3 in HR24 case)

It is the center tab on the clasp (#2, closest to case bottom) that does the locking by protruding from the HR24 case and engaging the external plastic cover - basically sticking straight into a slot on the external cover. This tab is about 1/8" wide. On each side of this tab, beneath the 'open' slots on the bottom edge of the plastic case and a bit further down (towards the top of the HR24) are two "unlock" tabs (#1, #3) which are about 3/16" wide. The central tab is separated from each side tab in the horizontal direction by a distance of about 1/8".

If there is a 'tool' designed to open these, its business end is basically two flat prongs which insert between the case and the cover through the open slots above the #1 and #3 tabs at each of the 4 side latch sites. The tool depresses the #1 and #3 tabs back into the case at each site causing the #2 tab at each site to retract into the case, thus releasing the cover at these points. I didn't realize this until after the case was removed and I could see how the mechanisms worked, i.e., I brute forced the cover, one site at a time, away from the #2 tab and then inserted the door shims. CAUTION: you have to pull pretty hard on the case to get the #2 tab to disengage by itself (that is, without pressing the #1 or #3 tab). This is where there is a risk of breaking the case if you are not careful. You'll be better off trying to use something to press in one (or both) of the unlocking tabs (#1, #3) and then slipping in something to prevent the #2 tab from re-engaging the case. Pressing either #1 or #3 coaxes #2 to disengage slightly, reducing the distance you have to pull the outside cover away from the case to disengage the #2 tab, but pressing both to completely disengage the #2 tab is better than pressing just one.

Once all 4 side tabs are disengaged (and something is in place on each to keep them from re-engaging, like 4 door shims or 4 credit cards) you can begin to separate the cover from the case at the rear of the HR24.

At this point the two front latches simply need to be pushed towards the rear of the box to disengage them (lift up a bit so they fall through the slot they're coming up through and they'll stay disengaged).

Then the cover comes off.

On to the hard drive.

Once inside, the replacement was straightforward, but definitely not as simple as replacing a PC hard drive. Components are very close together and delicate. You need to exercise care and proceed slowly. Steps I followed were basically:

1) slide wires routed through external tabs in the hard drive enclosure out of the way so they aren't encumbering it.

2) the fan is integral to the hard drive enclosure and its electrical connection needs to be disconnected at the motherboard in order to flip the drive enclosure over and access the hard drive. To do this unclip the fan's wire harness from the motherboard (4 thin wires towards front of HR24; press the clip gently and pull up to remove). Remember the orientation of the clip for when you need to replace this.

3) remove 4 torx screws holding down the drive enclosure (carefully, some of this work is near internal capacitors). A magnetic or some form of capture torx to grab the hard to get to screws once they are free is advised.

4) gently lift the drive assembly up and disconnect the SATA and power cables (you have to press on release clips to remove these two connections).

5) remove the metal grounding tab from the bottom (circuit board side) of the hard drive by removing the 2 screws holding it (note orientation on drive relative to SATA/power connectors).

6) remove 4 retaining screws holding the drive to the enclosure and remove the drive.

7) put in your new drive and reverse steps. Note, the 2TB drive was thicker than the 500MB drive, so I had to remove the piece of foam that was sandwiched between the 500MB drive and the drive enclosure.

When the unit is powered up, the drive is initialized and you're on your way.

#166 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 02:43 PM

Would you make a few pictures instead of the long boring description ?

#167 OFFLINE   matt

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 02:45 PM

I am surprised no snoopers of some of my self hosted pics have figured out I have pics of how to do it in my photobucket. Please substitute a cut up credit card for the razor blades... the blades were a first attempt and I showed someone the process and they used a card.
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#168 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 03:01 PM

Care to post URL ?

#169 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 04:47 PM

Would you make a few pictures instead of the long boring description ?


It's easy. You can figure it out.

Rich

#170 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 05:27 PM

Sure, just don't my own to practice ;) - after seen pictures it should be easy, thanks to Matt.
Now I'm looking around to build professional opener.:D

#171 OFFLINE   matt

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 05:29 PM

Now I'm looking around to build professional opener.:D


Then you could get a club membership and sell them in the buy/sell/trade section! :lol:
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#172 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 07 December 2010 - 05:43 PM

I'm afraid it will be new ban, but for life ... :(

#173 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 08:21 AM

Sure, just don't my own to practice ;) - after seen pictures it should be easy, thanks to Matt.
Now I'm looking around to build professional opener.:D


All you need is an old credit card or an old access card. Just enough to hold the clips back. They work well on 20-700s for the clips too.

Rich

#174 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 08 December 2010 - 12:12 PM

I did serve some RMA/manufacturing issues and always itched when saw small but an inventions what ppl creating for mass production or RMA centers. Perhaps I'm educated as EE ?

#175 OFFLINE   davel

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 02:26 AM

I have been meaning to post my pictures for a while. Thanks to those that helped me accomplish it (anleva). These are of an HR-24-100.

1. In picture #1 unscrew the two screws in 0 that hold the drive down (don't worry there are two more inside, these are a standard t-10), then release tabs 1,2,3 and gently lift up on the coax terminal (this was the easiest way I found). Place a screwdriver underneath the top like in picture #2. The tabs_closeup picture shows the outside case where you need to insert the flat blade and circled in blue the tab that you need to push in to release the top of the case.

2. Release tabs 4,5,6 in picture #1. Elevate the second side by using a flat screwdriver like in picture #3

3. The top is now clear like in #4 and will slide straight off revealing picture #5

4. Place new drive on top of old drive like in picture #6 and boot up and format like all the other drive upgrade threads. Note step 4 is not needed if you are just replacing the old drive and do not care about the current recordings.

5. Remove the two drive screws in picture #7 with the t-10 screwdriver. The old drive should now come out.

6. Replace with new drive, attach drive screws, plug in cords, place top back on and slide until it clicks and you are done!

Overall, once you figure out the tabs (and it is really easy) this DVR is a ton easier than the hr-20,23

Don't forget to turn off "power up in standby mode" on the old drive so you can use it in a regular pc by following the instructions Here

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1_tab_placements.JPG
  • 2_elevate_one_side.JPG
  • 3_elevate_second_side.JPG
  • 4_cover_free.JPG
  • 5_Original_drive.JPG
  • 6_new_drive_on_top.JPG
  • 7_drivescrews.JPG
  • Tabs_closeup.JPG

Edited by davel, 20 December 2010 - 03:22 PM.
clarification


#176 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 08:43 AM

I have been meaning to post my pictures for a while. Thanks to those that helped me accomplish it (anleva). These are of an HR-24-100.

In picture #1 unscrew the two screws in 0 that hold the drive down (don't worry there are two more inside, these are a standard t-10), then release tabs 1,2,3 and gently lift up on the coax terminal (this was the easiest way I found). Place a screwdriver underneath the top like in picture #2. The tabs_closeup picture shows the outside case where you need to insert the flat blade and circled in blue the tab that you need to push in to release the top of the case.

Release tabs 4,5,6 in picture #1. Elevate the second side by using a flat screwdriver like in picture #3

The top is now clear like in #4 and will slide straight off revealing picture #5

Place new drive on top of old drive like in picture #6 and boot up and format like all the other drive replacement threads

Remove the two drive screws in picture #7 with the t-10 screwdriver. The old drive should now come out.

Replace with new drive, attach drive screws, plug in cords, place top back on and slide until it clicks and you are done!

Overall, once you figure out the tabs (and it is really easy) this DVR is a ton easier than the hr-20,23


Why did you put the HDD on top of the old HDD and reboot?

Rich

#177 OFFLINE   hasan

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 08:48 AM

Why did you put the HDD on top of the old HDD and reboot?

Rich


To make sure it worked properly before putting things all back together?

...hasan, N0AN

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#178 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 08:57 AM

To make sure it worked properly before putting things all back together?


That was the only thing I could think of. Never done it that way. Usually pretty sure the thing will work when I put a larger internal in. I do test the HDDs before I install them, but I've never used the method he did. Not a bad idea, tho. First time I've seen anybody do that.

Rich

#179 OFFLINE   Richierich

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 09:07 AM

To make sure it worked properly before putting things all back together?


Very Smart as you don't want to Button Everything back up to only find out it won't work because a wire is loose or unconnected.
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#180 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 09:15 AM

Very Smart as you don't want to Button Everything back up to only find out it won't work because a wire is loose or unconnected.


Yup, I've done that. But, I'd be just a little leery of the HDD on top falling off and causing something catastrophic to happen. But I'm a raging pessimist and always look at the worst case scenario.

Rich




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