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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Upgrading from sd TiVo and sd dvr to hd dvr, help please.


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52 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Stuart Sweet

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:27 PM

I'm using a Monster home theater surge protector and an APC UPS. I would not buy another Monster product as they are overpriced. Mine was a gift.
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#22 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:42 PM

Stuart, do you use the ups only for power failure or does it have other benifits?

#23 OFFLINE   makaiguy

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 02:45 PM

Stuart, do you use the ups only for power failure or does it have other benifits?

I'm not Stuart, but ..

We get occasional power "blips" here that drop our power out for a second or two. They're especially common in the summer thunderstorm season. Just about any loss of power is enough to send a receiver into reboot mode, and it will be 10 minutes or so until you can watch anything. If you happen to be recording anything at the time, you're S.O.L. too.

My UPS is primarily for getting me through these short irritating outages. Even though my TV may shut down, I can turn it right back on if I'm home (I have it on a conditioning outlet only, not on a power backup outlet, to save as much battery power for the DirecTV as possible) but the recording can continue at least until the battery runs down. In nearly all my cases, the power is restored in a few minutes and the recorder never misses a beat.

As side benefits, though, you do get good surge protection and voltage regulation for everything connected to the UPS.
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#24 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 05:03 PM

I have APC UPS units which also include surge protection. I don't think you would need an additional surge protector, it would pretty much be overkill.

#25 OFFLINE   hasan

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 05:08 PM

I have APC UPS units which also include surge protection. I don't think you would need an additional surge protector, it would pretty much be overkill.


In fact, preceding a surge protector with another surge protector will prevent the 2nd one in line from working properly. A well designed UPS with surge protection depends on the fast attack of a surge pulse to switch away the line as soon as possible. If you precede it with another surge protector, the wave form of the offending pulse "flattens out" and it is harder for the "good" surge protector and electronics in the UPS to detect a line fault condition.

Bottom line: always plug a UPS directly into the AC outlet. No extension cords, no surge bars...nada...right into the outlet.

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#26 OFFLINE   Stuart Sweet

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 05:13 PM

Stuart, do you use the ups only for power failure or does it have other benifits?


Sorry, I was away from the thread for a little while. I use the UPS for power failure/brownout protection. It's just a battery backup, it doesn't really have solid surge protection.
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#27 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 06:13 PM

We have 1 power outage every couple years (watch us get 1 tonite because I mentioned it) so I would be good with a surge protector. I have heard The terms voltage regulation and line conditioning mentioned by a few people. When I asked why do you need it, most stated that electricity is very dirty or noisy. Is it important to have a voltage regulator/ power management box and f so, what do y'all use?

#28 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:21 PM

Is it important to have a voltage regulator/ power management box and f so, what do y'all use?

How or if it's important relates to how well your power company is doing their job. Most of my gear hasn't been on a UPS for several years.
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#29 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:13 PM

I listened to you all and went with a BX 1500H Back UPS. Seems to have everything I was asking for.
Just to let y'all know,I turned on my old Sony 27 inch crt last night and it seems to be on its way out. Picture is bad and it is turning itself off every once in a while. I guess it knew it was about to be replace. I just hope it will last until my new one gets installed on the 18th.
Once again, to all that offered input or suggestions, thank you very much. Without your help I would still be researching, well, pretty much everything.
I did just remember, I also prepaid Best Buy $200 to "calibrate" my new plasma in Febuary. Being that I have no idea how to correctly calibrate a tv, what would y'all suggest I do, have Best Buy do it or is there another source that would do a better job?

#30 OFFLINE   spartanstew

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:19 PM

See my sig.

With a blu ray player, calibration discs are very easy to use.

For a first timer, get the Disney WOW disc.

I'm sure Directv can't wait to get their hands on your unit.

 
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#31 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:06 PM

I have never calibrated any of my HD TV's, and have been perfectly happy with them. Others will argue the opposite.

What you do need to do (whether or not you have it calibrated), is to turn the normal settings way down once you have it set up at home. They tend to come out of the box super bright full blast maxed out. Once adjusted for the room and ambient light environment the set is in, you can decide if calibration is warranted.

#32 OFFLINE   Davenlr

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:21 PM

I have never calibrated any of my HD TV's, and have been perfectly happy with them. Others will argue the opposite.


And most popular TV's have a thread on AVSForum with several sets of different professional calibration settings you can plug in to try without spending a dime. I found one there for my Sharp 60" that improved the PQ significantly over the stock setting.

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#33 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:54 AM

I will pick up a Wow disc today. I have been told to turn down video contrast settings for the first 2 to 3 months to allow the set to break in. After the break in time then do the calibration. This is supposed to yeild a longer tv life span.
What are y'alls thoughts on this process? Or is it alright to calibrate it right away?

Edited by Losi b, 09 December 2011 - 07:09 AM.


#34 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 07:10 AM

I will pick up a Wow disc today. I have been told to turn down video contrast settings for the first 2 to 3 months to allow the set to break in. After the break in time then do the calibration. This is supposed to yeild a longer tv life span.
What are y'alls thoughts on this process? Or is it alright to calibrate it right away?


Anyone?

#35 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 08:37 AM

My thoughts are the same as carl6 make some minor adjustments that please you and let it go. In my line of work, a DirecTv Tech, I get to look at a lot of TV's in their natural environments. The Panasonic Plasmas have an excellent picture out of the box, which is why I have a 42GT25.

But if you want expert advice from video aficionados on your model check out the following links.

http://www.avsforum....d.php?t=1325398

http://www.avsforum....d.php?t=1371710

#36 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 09:56 AM

Thank you Sam. I appreciate the thread links.

Edited by Losi b, 09 December 2011 - 10:02 AM.


#37 OFFLINE   CCarncross

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 12:40 PM

I will pick up a Wow disc today. I have been told to turn down video contrast settings for the first 2 to 3 months to allow the set to break in. After the break in time then do the calibration. This is supposed to yeild a longer tv life span.
What are y'alls thoughts on this process? Or is it alright to calibrate it right away?


My take is you adjust the tv to how you want it, usually based on recommendations from people that know way more about it than me. It usually requires turning the settings way down from how the tv comes out of the box. "torch mode" will cause premature wear is what I always heard too, but you cant turn it down for a few months then crank it back up. I do hear they break in and its best to wait 100-200 hours of use, then do the calibration.

#38 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 10:03 PM

I was curious, I bought a Blu-Ray(I have one on my computer) but not a stand alone. Panasonic DMP-BDT100 , Disney WOW! Yeah.

Went through all the calibration steps. Most of the settings were really close.

After it was all over and done, I watched the premium settings for a few shows then made some freehand adjustments that I'm more pleased with.

It's almost the 18'th. ;)

#39 OFFLINE   ThomasM

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 07:30 PM

I'll tell you I've had $5 HDMI cables and $60 ones. Both performed identically. As a matter of fact the $5 one is connecting a 3d Blu-ray player to a 3d TV and has no problem with 3d content despite the requirement for a "high speed HDMI cable."


Some cheapie HDMI cables don't work right with 3D Blu-Ray. I friend of mine went nuts trying to figure out the problem since it only occured with 3D (which apparently really must push LOADS of data through that cable).

Finally, someone suggested the cable and sure enough. A new HDMI cable fixed the problem but it wasn't an outrageously priced Best Buy cable. Just one that was rated for 3D Blu-Ray.

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#40 OFFLINE   Losi b

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 08:43 AM

Thanks guys, that's pretty much what I figured but I wanted to be sure.
I finally had my tv installed last night. I must say, absolutely beautiful tv and great picture.
I have contacted Direct tv and they will install my hr34 (I'm ordering one from VE) and install two dual tuner dvr's for $190 with whole house install included. They offered to credit my account $43 a month for 6 months to help offset my purchase of the hr34. Sounds like a reasonable deal to me.
I do have another question for y'all though. I has been using a $100 set of wireless headphones for late night tv viewing that we're plugged into the variable audio out on my old tv. The new tv, Panasonic 50GT30 only has a digital audio out. My old headphones aren't working with my new tv. Is there an easy way to make them work? If not then what type or specific model should I be looking for. I would like to keep the price around $100 or less if I need a new set.
So, what do y'all think?




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