Jump to content


Welcome to DBSTalk


Sign In 

Create Account
Welcome to DBSTalk. Our community covers all aspects of video delivery solutions including: Direct Broadcast Satellite (DBS), Cable Television, and Internet Protocol Television (IPTV). We also have forums to discuss popular television programs, home theater equipment, and internet streaming service providers. Members of our community include experts who can help you solve technical problems, industry professionals, company representatives, and novices who are here to learn.

Like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community. Sign-up is a free and simple process that requires minimal information. Be a part of our community by signing in or creating an account. The Digital Bit Stream starts here!
  • Reply to existing topics or start a discussion of your own
  • Subscribe to topics and forums and get email updates
  • Send private personal messages (PM) to other forum members
  • Customize your profile page and make new friends
 
Guest Message by DevFuse

Photo

The official "ask veryoldschool" thread


  • Please log in to reply
815 replies to this topic

#121 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 11 February 2012 - 09:30 PM

I don't know why the question of a DECA counting as a tuner keeps coming up, as DECA and SWiM have no interaction, but no they don't count as a tuner.

I got another PM and have seen some posts asking about this, so I want to post again:

DECAs don't count as "tuners" on any SWiM.

SWiM channels are for SAT tuners, and have nothing to do with how many DECAs are being used.
A.K.A VOS

...Ads Help To Support This SIte...

#122 OFFLINE   paragon

paragon

    Godfather

  • Registered
  • 354 posts
Joined: Nov 15, 2007

Posted 11 February 2012 - 10:28 PM

I am getting upgraded next weekend and after the upgrade, will have an SWM16 along with an HR34, HR24, HR21, and a broadband DECA. Can you give some advice on what the best configuration would be to minimize splitter loss? This is especially important because the coax in my walls is all RG59 and replacing it is a non-starter (I have been using MRV over this coax with an SWM8 and 4-way splitter with no problems).

I was thinking one of these two configs:

1)
Leg 1: Power Inserter -> 4-way split -> HR24, HR21, Broadband DECA
Leg 2: HR34 only

2)
Leg 1: Power Inserter -> 2-way split -> HR24, HR21
Leg 2: 2-way split, HR34, Broadband DECA

#123 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 11 February 2012 - 10:32 PM

I am getting upgraded next weekend and after the upgrade, will have an SWM16 along with an HR34, HR24, HR21, and a broadband DECA. Can you give some advice on what the best configuration would be to minimize splitter loss? This is especially important because the coax in my walls is all RG59 and replacing it is a non-starter (I have been using MRV over this coax with an SWM8 and 4-way splitter with no problems).

I was thinking one of these two configs:

1)
Leg 1: Power Inserter -> 4-way split -> HR24, HR21, Broadband DECA
Leg 2: HR34 only

2)
Leg 1: Power Inserter -> 2-way split -> HR24, HR21
Leg 2: 2-way split, HR34, Broadband DECA

#2 looks to have an edge over #1, because of only using a 2-way, on each leg.
This would be if all the coax is the same.
A.K.A VOS

#124 OFFLINE   paragon

paragon

    Godfather

  • Registered
  • 354 posts
Joined: Nov 15, 2007

Posted 11 February 2012 - 10:34 PM

#2 looks to have an edge over #1, because of only using a 2-way, on each leg.
This would be if all the coax is the same.


Actually there is one difference on the coax. Coax in the wall to all 3 receivers is RG59. Coax to the broadband DECA is RG6. Forgot about that.

#125 OFFLINE   usnret

usnret

    Icon

  • Registered
  • 587 posts
Joined: Jan 16, 2009

Posted 12 February 2012 - 08:59 AM

VOS - I have a remote control problem. Background. Have a HR24 in living room and HR22 upstairs. Friday had a HR34 installed beside the 24. All 3 are MRV'd and a SWM16 was installed when 34 put in. All receivers and MRV is working great and I am keeping the 24 for awhile to watch recorded programs (and make sure the 34 is working properly).
I now have 3 remotes configured for the 24 and 34 (I don't know how) as follows:
1. RC65 - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 24, via HDMI, to TV.
2. RC64R - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 34, via HDMI to TV.
3. RC65RX - turns on LGTV.
What I would like is for 2 of the remotes to just control the 34 and TV and 1 remote control just the 24 and TV.
As an aside, I have to use the TV remote to change HDMI inputs between the 34 and 24, but thats no problem. Would just like to get the remote problem resolved before my "better half" figures out there is a problem :-]
Tks for any assistance.
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

#126 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 09:17 AM

VOS - I have a remote control problem. Background. Have a HR24 in living room and HR22 upstairs. Friday had a HR34 installed beside the 24. All 3 are MRV'd and a SWM16 was installed when 34 put in. All receivers and MRV is working great and I am keeping the 24 for awhile to watch recorded programs (and make sure the 34 is working properly).
I now have 3 remotes configured for the 24 and 34 (I don't know how) as follows:
1. RC65 - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 24, via HDMI, to TV.
2. RC64R - turns on LGTV and both the 24 and 34. Connects 34, via HDMI to TV.
3. RC65RX - turns on LGTV.
What I would like is for 2 of the remotes to just control the 34 and TV and 1 remote control just the 24 and TV.
As an aside, I have to use the TV remote to change HDMI inputs between the 34 and 24, but thats no problem. Would just like to get the remote problem resolved before my "better half" figures out there is a problem :-]
Tks for any assistance.

This seems like it should be fairly easy:
2 remotes have RF, and one doesn't.
Changing the HR34 remote setup to RF, with either RC64R[x], by following the on screen steps/prompts. Copy these while going through them, and then do the same steps to the other remote [you don't need to be on the same screen in the HR34, because it was set the first time, so you're simply setting the remote to match the second time].
Leave the RC65 alone as it only has IR, and leave the HR24 alone so it stays in IR.
A.K.A VOS

#127 OFFLINE   usnret

usnret

    Icon

  • Registered
  • 587 posts
Joined: Jan 16, 2009

Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:24 AM

The RC65RX (#3) doesn't turn on either of the receivers, just the TV, so I can't do a thing with it.
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

#128 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 10:29 AM

The RC65RX (#3) doesn't turn on either of the receivers, just the TV, so I can't do a thing with it.

These are the steps:
1. dtv
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
3. enter 0 0 0 0 1
4. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
5. enter 9 6 1
6. press CH UP
7. enter the last 6 digits of the receivers ID #, found on a sticker in the access card compartment
8. press SELECT
A.K.A VOS

#129 OFFLINE   usnret

usnret

    Icon

  • Registered
  • 587 posts
Joined: Jan 16, 2009

Posted 12 February 2012 - 11:36 AM

Did as instructed above on the 65 and 65RX. When I hit select after inputting the receiver nr's, there was a "boink". Now they both just control only the on/off of the TV and neither receiver. I must be missing something somewhere and am 71 so maybe that has something to do with it. Am "saving" the RC64R as that is the only remote that I can do anything with (34 and 24 and TV).
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

#130 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 11:52 AM

Did as instructed above on the 65 and 65RX. When I hit select after inputting the receiver nr's, there was a "boink". Now they both just control only the on/off of the TV and neither receiver. I must be missing something somewhere and am 71 so maybe that has something to do with it. Am "saving" the RC64R as that is the only remote that I can do anything with (34 and 24 and TV).

The RC65 is an IR only remote, so don't try to program it for RF.
This is the one that should stay with the 24.

The RC65RX [as the RC64R is too] has the option of using RF.
Not sure where you are now, in programing the HR34 & HR24 and your remotes.
If you can't control the DVR, use the front panel buttons to navigate to the setup menu and then to remote menu.
The options should be either change to RF [it is still in IR mode] or change to IR [it's in RF mode]

Once you figure out which mode the receiver is in,
select the right steps here to program the remote:

[for RF]
1. dtv <-slider at the top above the power button
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
3. enter 0 0 0 0 1
4. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
5. enter 9 6 1
6. press CH UP
7. enter the last 6 digits of the receivers ID #, found on a sticker in the access card compartment
8. press SELECT

[for IR]
1. DTV <-slider at the top
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
3. enter 0 0 0 0 1
4. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
5. enter 9 6 1
6. press CH down
7. press SELECT

You need to watch the LED on the remote blink


Let's take a step back here


You've programed the HR24 for RF it seems and the RC65 doesn't support that.
Use the front panel controls to reprogram "the receiver" back to IR.
Now the RC65 should control the HR24. Set the RC65 remote DOWN and leave it alone.

Move to the HR34.
Does the RC64R control it?
If so, set the RC64R aside for the moment and pick up the RC65RX.
Follow these steps on "just the remote" [don't do anything to the HR34 receiver]
1. dtv
2. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
3. enter 0 0 0 0 1
4. press and hold MUTE & SELECT for two blinks
5. enter 9 6 1
6. press CH UP
7. enter the last 6 digits of the receivers ID #, found on a sticker in the access card compartment
8. press SELECT

This should now have the RC64R coded to the HR34.

Edited by veryoldschool, 12 February 2012 - 12:13 PM.

A.K.A VOS

#131 OFFLINE   usnret

usnret

    Icon

  • Registered
  • 587 posts
Joined: Jan 16, 2009

Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:26 PM

OK. Got the 65 to control the 24 (chnl down did it). Only problem left is that when I Hit the off button on either the 65 or 64R, both receivers turn off. When I hit the on button both receivers turn on. Is there any way to fix this?
And thanks for bearing with me VOS. You must have been JOB in another life.
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

#132 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:36 PM

OK. Got the 65 to control the 24 (chnl down did it). Only problem left is that when I Hit the off button on either the 65 or 64R, both receivers turn off. When I hit the on button both receivers turn on. Is there any way to fix this?
And thanks for bearing with me VOS. You must have been JOB in another life.

Now it sounds like you have both DVRs set to IR.
Leave the RC65 & the HR24 alone.

Does the RC64R besides turning on the HR34, also control the other functions?
If so go into it's menu again and change both the receiver and the RC64R to RF, by [this time] following the on screen steps.


It just dawned on me [DUH]
When you have both DVRs set to IR, "and then" you try to change the HR34 to RF, without blocking the IR pickup on the HR24, you're changing both DVRs.

On the HR24 just to the right of the power/DirecTV logo, is the IR eye/detector. You'll need to block/mask this before trying to change the HR34 to RF.

Edited by veryoldschool, 12 February 2012 - 12:49 PM.

A.K.A VOS

#133 OFFLINE   usnret

usnret

    Icon

  • Registered
  • 587 posts
Joined: Jan 16, 2009

Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:52 PM

That was the ticket. It's just working on the 34 now. Tks VOS (JOB). You have been very, very helpful.
  • TexasJames likes this
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain.

#134 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 12:56 PM

That was the ticket. It's just working on the 34 now. Tks VOS (JOB). You have been very, very helpful.

I was slow of the uptake since I don't start with more than one receiver in IR mode. The first thing I do is change to RF, so when the next receiver needs setting up, it's the only one in IR mode. [DUH]
A.K.A VOS

#135 OFFLINE   jayerndl

jayerndl

    AllStar

  • Registered
  • 73 posts
Joined: Aug 04, 2007

Posted 12 February 2012 - 05:27 PM

I just had a HR34 installed yesterday and was converted to SWM in the process. I also have (2) HR20-700s (9 tuners total) so I have a SWM16. Everything seems to work but I'm not sure if it's hooked up "right". I don't have a good diagramming tool to show the setup so please bare with me while I try to describe how things are connected. (BTW, what do you guys use for a diagramming tool?)

1. I have 4 cables coming from the LNB connected to the bottom left 4 ports of the SWM16.

2. On the power inserter -the "power to swm" port is connected to the "swm1/pwr" port of the swm16 and the "signal to IRD" port to is connected to the input of a 1x4 splitter.

3. The "swm2" port on the swm16 is connected directly to the HR34.

4. On the 1x4 splitter - 2 ports are connected to the HR20s (with a DECA) and 1 port is connected to a broadband DECA which is connected to my router via Cat5e and the 4th port is not used.

I have looked at several diagrams and don't recall DVRs being connected directly to the swm. Is there a "better" way to connect my 3 DVRs or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for your help.

Jay

#136 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 12 February 2012 - 07:39 PM

I just had a HR34 installed yesterday and was converted to SWM in the process. I also have (2) HR20-700s (9 tuners total) so I have a SWM16. Everything seems to work but I'm not sure if it's hooked up "right". I don't have a good diagramming tool to show the setup so please bare with me while I try to describe how things are connected. (BTW, what do you guys use for a diagramming tool?)

1. I have 4 cables coming from the LNB connected to the bottom left 4 ports of the SWM16.

2. On the power inserter -the "power to swm" port is connected to the "swm1/pwr" port of the swm16 and the "signal to IRD" port to is connected to the input of a 1x4 splitter.

3. The "swm2" port on the swm16 is connected directly to the HR34.

4. On the 1x4 splitter - 2 ports are connected to the HR20s (with a DECA) and 1 port is connected to a broadband DECA which is connected to my router via Cat5e and the 4th port is not used.

I have looked at several diagrams and don't recall DVRs being connected directly to the swm. Is there a "better" way to connect my 3 DVRs or should I just leave it alone? Thanks for your help.

Jay


  • four coax is how it's done.
  • "If there was" something to check/change it would be the distance of the coax between the PI and the SWiM. This might need to be 15'. Another way is to move the PI to the PWR port [between the two SWiM ports], and connect the splitter to SWiM1
  • HR34 straight to SWiM2 is fine.
  • 4-way splitter is fine and gives you the three outputs you need. Make sure the forth has a termination.
What you have works, and I might swap the PI around, but if it had the 15' of coax, I might not too, as the difference isn't much, if anything.
A.K.A VOS

#137 OFFLINE   jayerndl

jayerndl

    AllStar

  • Registered
  • 73 posts
Joined: Aug 04, 2007

Posted 13 February 2012 - 09:05 AM

  • "If there was" something to check/change it would be the distance of the coax between the PI and the SWiM. This might need to be 15'. Another way is to move the PI to the PWR port [between the two SWiM ports], and connect the splitter to SWiM1
What you have works, and I might swap the PI around, but if it had the 15' of coax, I might not too, as the difference isn't much, if anything.

Thanks VOS. Since the coax between the PI and the SWiM was very short I switched the cables as you suggested and everything seems to work ok. There is now nothing connected to the "signal to IRD" port on the PI. Does this need to be terminated?

I have one other question. I have a nearby ethernet switch to both the wiring closet where the SWiM is and the location of my HR34. Would you recommend using my current internet config (using the broadband DECA) or connecting to the internet with my HR34 used as a bridge and disconnecting the BB DECA. Thanks again.

Jay

#138 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

veryoldschool

    Lifetime Achiever

  • Moderators
  • 41,981 posts
Joined: Dec 09, 2006

Posted 13 February 2012 - 09:36 AM

Thanks VOS. Since the coax between the PI and the SWiM was very short I switched the cables as you suggested and everything seems to work ok. There is now nothing connected to the "signal to IRD" port on the PI. Does this need to be terminated?

I have one other question. I have a nearby ethernet switch to both the wiring closet where the SWiM is and the location of my HR34. Would you recommend using my current internet config (using the broadband DECA) or connecting to the internet with my HR34 used as a bridge and disconnecting the BB DECA. Thanks again.

Jay

The PI question is easy, since it's now connected to a DC [only] connector, the IRD port doesn't matter if it's terminated, since there isn't any RF.
Your other question isn't as easy.
I would tend to leave/keep the BB DECA, but my reasoning really isn't, but instead more of an unsupportable preference.
Some HR34s have had problems being the bridge, while others haven't, and using it as one is a supported method. :shrug:
A.K.A VOS

#139 OFFLINE   jayerndl

jayerndl

    AllStar

  • Registered
  • 73 posts
Joined: Aug 04, 2007

Posted 13 February 2012 - 09:46 AM

The PI question is easy, since it's now connected to a DC [only] connector, the IRD port doesn't matter if it's terminated, since there isn't any RF.
Your other question isn't as easy.
I would tend to leave/keep the BB DECA, but my reasoning really isn't, but instead more of an unsupportable preference.
Some HR34s have had problems being the bridge, while others haven't, and using it as one is a supported method. :shrug:

Thanks. I think I'll just leave things the way they are.

#140 OFFLINE   dsw2112

dsw2112

    Always Searching

  • Registered
  • 1,936 posts
Joined: Jun 12, 2009

Posted 15 February 2012 - 03:08 PM

VOS,

I was working on a friend's setup, and noticed something I "think" is different (or at least different than I'm remembering it :lol: )

Under the SWM signal strengths screen I'm seeing a DVR use two SWM channels always. For example; the setup contained two HR's and an H receiver. When viewing the SWM signal strengths screen from only the "H" receiver there are four "0's" shown (two per DVR.) This is without the DVR's recording or in doubleplay.

I've also tested this on my setup, and verified that regardless of the time of day the DVR's are always "grabbing" two channels (initially I thought they might just be downloading a D* "push".) Has that always been the case? I thought I remembered having to record, or utilize doubleplay to have a DVR grab that 2nd channel in the signal strength screen.
SL3-Slimline to SWM16 - DECA
HR34-700, HR24-500, & HR22-100




Protected By... spam firewall...And...