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SWM-8 Question...


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23 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 07:37 PM

I am trying to upgrade my system at the cottage to do whole home DVR with DECA. At home, I have SWM-16 and I thought it would be too much for the cottage. So, I ordered SWM-8, power supply, SWS-8 and DECA. Will the SWM-8 I just got work? I'm planning on HR24, H24 and 2 H25 receivers at the cottage. Please tell me it will otherwise I'd have to send back the SWM-8 and pay more for SWM-16. I do not plan to add any more receivers than the 4 listed.

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#2 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:00 PM

I am trying to upgrade my system at the cottage to do whole home DVR with DECA. At home, I have SWM-16 and I thought it would be too much for the cottage. So, I ordered SWM-8, power supply, SWS-8 and DECA. Will the SWM-8 I just got work? I'm planning on HR24, H24 and 2 H25 receivers at the cottage. Please tell me it will otherwise I'd have to send back the SWM-8 and pay more for SWM-16. I do not plan to add any more receivers than the 4 listed.

I don't see a problem.
A.K.A VOS

#3 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 15 May 2012 - 08:10 PM

I don't see a problem.


Thanks. Hope it works out. Won't find out til Saturday when I go out there to open the cottage up for the season.

#4 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 09:35 PM

Well, well, I believe I have broken the multiswitch. First of all, I actually hooked the power inserter into the wrong rf connection. I see on the multiswitch the word "power", which made me thought that was where it was supposed to go. Oops, wrong one. The stuff didn't come with any instruction. That made me so mad. What broke was when I tried to unscrew the cable, it actually unscrew the whole thing out of the multiswitch. I think it broke it. I tried screwing that piece back in but now my receiver is no multiswitch found. :-( Me so sad.

#5 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 09:58 PM

You got a SWM8 right?

http://www.dbstalk.c...=1&d=1337486173

"PWR" is where the coax from the PI connects.

How tight did you tighten it? :eek2:

Attached Thumbnails

  • SWM8.PNG

A.K.A VOS

#6 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 05:03 AM

Can someone provide me an illustration on how SWM-8 is supposed to be connected? I have 4 cables coming from the dish. I have power inserter available so I need to know where the PI is supposed to be connected to. I also have what looks like a splitter (believe it is SWS-8). I "may have" broken it by connecting it wrong. I'm reading 771A on my receiver.

#7 OFFLINE   dielray

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 05:34 AM

The PI can be located inline to the SWM 1 port:
PI(to SWM) -> Red Splitter Output | Splitter Input -> SWM 1

The PI can also be directly connected to the legacy 3 port, with out any receivers inline.

Attached Thumbnails

  • swm8power.jpg

Edited by dielray, 20 May 2012 - 05:48 AM.

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#8 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 05:49 AM

The PI can be located inline to the SWM 1 port:
PI(to SWM) -> Red Splitter Output | Splitter Input -> SWM 1

The PI can also be directly connected to the legacy 3 port, with out any receivers inline.


So, if I am understanding this correctly, I can use the legacy 3 port to insert the PI? I think I may have damaged the SWM1/PWR when I was trying to disconnect the cable. Are you saying I have another option instead of having to buy a new receiver? And am I supposed to connect the PI's IRD to the splitter?

#9 OFFLINE   dielray

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:38 AM

So, if I am understanding this correctly, I can use the legacy 3 port to insert the PI? I think I may have damaged the SWM1/PWR when I was trying to disconnect the cable. Are you saying I have another option instead of having to buy a new receiver? And am I supposed to connect the PI's IRD to the splitter?


You can plug the PI directly to the Legacy 3 port and run the receivers off SWM 2. The PI would not be going through the splitter in this config. Take the term cap from SWM2 and screw it on SWM1.

I'm a little confused by what you mean regarding replacing the receiver. Do you suspect you damaged the receiver as well? What makes you think you damaged the SWM1 port of the switch?
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#10 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:02 AM

You can plug the PI directly to the Legacy 3 port and run the receivers off SWM 2. The PI would not be going through the splitter in this config. Take the term cap from SWM2 and screw it on SWM1.

I'm a little confused by what you mean regarding replacing the receiver. Do you suspect you damaged the receiver as well? What makes you think you damaged the SWM1 port of the switch?


Oops, I meant the SWM-8. I might have damaged it but now I realized I damaged the SWM1/PWR. When I tried to disconnect the cable, the whole thing came out. Is there another option instead of having the SWM-8 replaced?

#11 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:26 AM

Finally got a different result. Instead of 771A, I get 771 searching for signal meaning my SWM is working. I guess I got it hooked up correctly the first time but broke the SWM1/PWR. Thanks for giving me another option instead of having to buy another SWM-8. I just opened this cottage up this weekend so it seems it is most possible that this house had settled through winter and made the dish misaligned or there was a strong wind storm. But am I supposed to get ALL zero's?

#12 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:30 AM

Oops, I meant the SWM-8. I might have damaged it but now I realized I damaged the SWM1/PWR. When I tried to disconnect the cable, the whole thing came out. Is there another option instead of having the SWM-8 replaced?

Not sure why you've started this thread, as you already started another about this problem.
If you've damaged the SWM 1/PWR connector, you may need to get the SWM8 replaced.
While you can power the SWM8 through the #3 legacy port, and connect the receiver(s) to the SWM #2, you can't leave the SWM #1 port not connected.
If you've damaged the connector to the point where you can't connect anything, then the SWM8 should be replaced.
A.K.A VOS

#13 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:32 AM

Finally got a different result. Instead of 771A, I get 771 searching for signal meaning my SWM is working. I guess I got it hooked up correctly the first time but broke the SWM1/PWR. Thanks for giving me another option instead of having to buy another SWM-8. I just opened this cottage up this weekend so it seems it is most possible that this house had settled through winter and made the dish misaligned or there was a strong wind storm. But am I supposed to get ALL zero's?

Not sure how you have the receiver connected, but if it isn't recognizing that its on a SWiM, then the 771a turns into 771.
A.K.A VOS

#14 OFFLINE   Scott Kocourek

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:47 AM

Merged and move to the installation forum.

Opinions expressed by me are my own and do not necessarily reflect
those of DBSTalk.com, DIRECTV, Dish Network, or any other company.

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#15 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:57 AM

You got a SWM8 right?

http://www.dbstalk.c...=1&d=1337486173

"PWR" is where the coax from the PI connects.

How tight did you tighten it? :eek2:


Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.

Edited by HDTVFreak07, 20 May 2012 - 07:58 AM.
Add Slimline-5


#16 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:09 AM

Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.

The 101 & 99c come from the dish/LNB on the 13 & 18 volt lines. This might suggest there are problems on those two coax. You can swap one or both coax from the 13/18 volt 22 kHz over to the 13/18 volt, and if 101 & 99c then show something, the coax is the problem, and you should lose the 110/119/103 as they come off the two with the 22 kHz.

SWM showing zeros, suggests the receiver at least is on/seeing the SWM8, but with no signals from the dish, they can't show anything [seems they're looking at the 101]
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#17 OFFLINE   dielray

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:10 AM

Yes, the illustrated one is what I got. Now, I've got signals on all but 101, 99c and SWM. The ones I got signals on are 90+ range. What does this mean? I'm thinking about stopping to a place that just might have SWM-8 (hope to God they do) and get one.

Edit: BTW, I'm on a Slimline-5.


Is all of SWM 0? 0s on the 101/99 usually indicates problems with those feed lines. VOS is right, if your SWM1 port is completely destroyed, the switch will not hold up over time. Having an unterminated port isn't a great idea either.
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#18 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:19 AM

Is all of SWM 0? 0s on the 101/99 usually indicates problems with those feed lines. VOS is right, if your SWM1 port is completely destroyed, the switch will not hold up over time. Having an unterminated port isn't a great idea either.


ALL of SWM is zero. I used the rf connector with a cap on in place of that first one so nothing gets in there. I plan to go and have the SWM-8 replaced because I do not like keeping anything that is broken even if it will be working.

I'm going to go ahead and change the order of the lines to the SWM but doubt it will work. I probably have a bad SWM anyway, most likely due to me connecting it wrong. I've saved the illustration of proper connection for when I get a new one. So disappointed that even though I didn't secured the connection too hard, when I disconnect it, it twisted the piece out of there. :mad: Must have been a piece of crap to begin with.

#19 OFFLINE   dielray

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:35 AM

I'm going to go ahead and change the order of the lines to the SWM but doubt it will work. I probably have a bad SWM anyway, most likely due to me connecting it wrong.


Changing the order of the lines will let you know if you have problems with 2 of the runs. It won't fix your problem, but will at least let you know there's a problem outside of the switch.

It's hard to explain, but when tightening the connector, you don't feel much force back once you hit the 30in/lbs. If you start to feel it push back, and continue to turn it, you've really overtightened the connector.
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#20 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:40 AM

It's hard to explain, but when tightening the connector, you don't feel much force back once you hit the 30in/lbs. If you start to feel it push back, and continue to turn it, you've really overtightened the connector.

Yes it is, and I try to use "snug" instead of "tight". It takes a light hand to feel/know when the connector starts to mate, which is where one needs to stop.
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#21 ONLINE   HoTat2

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 10:08 AM

... It's hard to explain, but when tightening the connector, you don't feel much force back once you hit the 30in/lbs. If you start to feel it push back, and continue to turn it, you've really overtightened the connector.


I thought DIRECTV requires all their installers to have 30 in∙lb torque wrenches for this to avoid such subjective guesswork. And don't QA checks typically test for this correct torque level on metal to metal connections like the SWiM-8 module mentioned above?

#22 OFFLINE   dielray

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 10:45 AM

I thought DIRECTV requires all their installers to have 30 in∙lb torque wrenches for this to avoid such subjective guesswork. And don't QA checks typically test for this correct torque level on metal to metal connections like the SWiM-8 module mentioned above?


I don't know if it's required or just highly recommended, but many installers don't have one. I carry a torque wrench. However, I've been doing this long enough that I can torque it correctly with a regular wrench. In my sleep:). A QC would check to make sure it's at least that, but doesn't really check that its overtightened. It's just as common to find overtightened connectors in the field as loose.

Edited by dielray, 20 May 2012 - 10:54 AM.

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#23 OFFLINE   HDTVFreak07

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:07 PM

Well, I caved in. DirecTV technician is coming on Saturday. That's absolutely no problem since I'm home all week and here on weekends. Wished I had seeked assistance here first before doing them myself. I'm stuck with off-air programming for this past weekend.

#24 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 08:09 AM

And don't QA checks typically test for this correct torque level on metal to metal connections like the SWiM-8 module mentioned above?


How could you test for correct torque? The connection must be turning at the time the proper torque value is reached (at which time you immediately stop turning). If you put a torque wrench on to a connector that is torqued to the proper value and apply pressure until you reach 30 inch pounds, you would not see any movement, so the only thing you are verifying is that it is torqued to at least 30 inch pounds (but it could be way more). It would also be possible if you do this to over torque a connector that was previously torqued correctly.

To validate, you would have to loosen the connection and re-torque it properly. Doing that of course would give you no indication as to whether or not it was torqued properly to start with.

To actually test/verify if it were at the correct value, you would have to intentionally over torque it (to say 35 or 40 inch pounds), watching for it to start turning after 30, but before 35. Then you would have to loosen and re-torque to the correct value. But if there is a 30 inch pound spec to start with, over torquing to test could result in damage that you are trying to avoid in the first place.




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