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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Suggestions For Improving Mount


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33 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   Beerstalker

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 11:04 AM

As already stated this WILL work; again, it was specifically made for retrofits on C-band pipes. Skywalker still makes these & as I already said, I've done this several times & have yet to have a problem with them.


Is the picture on the link wrong then? In the picture there doesn't seem to be any reduction of diameter along it's length, so either it is 2" OD for the whole length which means it won't fit over top of the 3.5" pole, or it has a 3.5" ID and the slimline dish won't be able to fit on top of it?

Edit/

OK now I think I see how it's supposed to work, I was confused by it at first. You are supposed to slip the wall of the 3.5" pipe up into the slot on the bottom of this adapter and then tighten the bolts down to clamp it in place.

http://www.satpro.tv.../qpa2-200wb.jpg

That makes a lot more sense. This may be the best solution yet. Although I think it might be better to drill the two tapped holes all the way through both this adapter and the 3.5" pipe and put a nut on the outside rather than just tightening the bolts up against the side of the 3.5" pipe, don't you?

Heck, that might even be the part I have sitting at home. I assume it can also slip completely overtop the 1-5/8" pole and mount to the outside of it as well? That's the one I have at home that I got for free off Craigslist with the Slimline dish I installed at my deer cabin (using a J mount and monopoles so I don't have any issues there).

It always amazes me how people will try so hard to do something the wrong way. Then complain how it dosent work. IMHO put in the correct pole cemented in then remove the wrong pole.


As far as I can tell this adapter is a DirecTV approved mounting solution. I'm not trying to do anything the wrong way, I'm trying to fix an install that was previously done the wrong way by a certified DirecTV tech.

If you want to come down and dig the old pole out for me I would be glad to replace it with a smaller pole. If it's anything like the clotheslines the farmer put in the concrete is about 3 foot in diameter and about 6 foot deep.

Edited by Beerstalker, 07 June 2012 - 11:24 AM.

Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn’t drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
-by Jack Handy

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#22 OFFLINE   eakes

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 11:52 AM

One way to accomplish the desired results is to bolt the 2 inch pipe inside the 3.5 inch pipe. Drill two holes through the 3.5 inch pipe, clamp the 2 inch pipe inside and drill matching holes through that pipe (all the way through both sides). Weld or glue captive nuts at the rear most holes of the inside pipe. (one could accomplish the captive nuts by drill and tapping holes in a piece of flat bar stock and hold it in-place while tightening bolts inserted through the two pipes).

#23 OFFLINE   Beerstalker

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 12:24 PM

One way to accomplish the desired results is to bolt the 2 inch pipe inside the 3.5 inch pipe. Drill two holes through the 3.5 inch pipe, clamp the 2 inch pipe inside and drill matching holes through that pipe (all the way through both sides). Weld or glue captive nuts at the rear most holes of the inside pipe. (one could accomplish the captive nuts by drill and tapping holes in a piece of flat bar stock and hold it in-place while tightening bolts inserted through the two pipes).


Yes that would work to and I thought about doing that, but holding the 2" pipe inside the 3.5" pipe and drilling the holes in line would be pretty difficult. That's why I was leaning toward filling the 3.5" pipe with cement. It would be easier to hold the 2" pipe vertical inside it while waiting for the concrete to set. Then if I felt the need I could go back and drill holes though both the pipes and the concrete. That might be a pain though switching back and forth between metal drill bits and masonry ones though.

I figured I could just drill a hole all the way through and have the bolt head and nuts seated against the outside of the 3.5" pipe, rather than trying to weld them to the 2" pipe so they would be down inside and impossible to ever grip to loosen/tighten the bolts if the nuts ever came loose. It would probably be easier just to bolt the 2" pipe to the outside of the 3.4" pipe instead, but if I was going to do that I might as well just go with the railing mount we talked about earlier.

I've always tried to stick to the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). That's why I'm now leaning toward the mount DishRich suggested. Especially if the similar adapter I have at home will work (I'll have to check tonight when I get home) It should be the simplest and cleanest looking.

My final option is just to move the slimline to the J mount on my roof that the HughesNet dish is currently on. I dropped HughesNet a couple months ago so that dish is just going unused now. I was thinking of using it to mount my OTA antenna though, so I can move it out of my attic and get a better signal. Not to mention I've had to brsh snow off my Slimline a couple of times in the past and that is much easier with it mounted on the pole down lower rather than on the roof.

Edited by Beerstalker, 07 June 2012 - 12:32 PM.

Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn’t drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
-by Jack Handy

#24 OFFLINE   eakes

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 01:31 PM

Well, one really wouldn't have to hold the 2 inch pipe during the entire drilling process. Drill the large pipe. put the 2 inch inside and mark the holes. Remove and drill in a vise or similar.

You could make a version of captive nuts by marking, drilling and tapping a piece of bar stock such that it spanned both holes. Since there would be two threaded holes in the bar stock, there would be no need to hold or weld nuts to the inside pipe. Make the bar stock long enough so you could hold it from the top while starting the bolts into the threaded holes.

An alternate approach would be to drill both sides of the 3.5 inch pipe. Make the holes on the 'back side' large enough for the head of a bolt to slide through. Slide the bolt through that hole and then through the inside pipe to outside. Use a lockwasher under the bolt head and you can tighten the nut on the outside of the pipe without the head turning (or make the hole big enough to accommodate a deep socket).

#25 OFFLINE   Beerstalker

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 02:00 PM

Even doing it that way would be difficult. It would be pretty hard to get both holes lined up perfectly even if you used one set to mark the others. That means one of the sets of holes would probably have to be oversized in order to get the bolt to pass though, which could introduce slop into the pole allowing it to tilt or turn.

With DishRich's adapter I should be able to drill out the first hole, bolt it in place tight, and use a clamp to help hold it plumb if needed while I drill the second hole. Should be much easier since it is shorter.

Either way I appreciate everyone's help here. I will be sure to post when I get it all done, probably a picture or two.
Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn’t drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
-by Jack Handy

#26 OFFLINE   dishrich

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 03:14 PM

With DishRich's adapter I should be able to drill out the first hole, bolt it in place tight, and use a clamp to help hold it plumb if needed while I drill the second hole. Should be much easier since it is shorter.


PLEASE...before you resort to all that drilling - just use the 2 bolts "as is". ;)
The good thing with just using those...you CAN actually do some correction on making the pipe (adaptor) level, to make aiming the dish easier. If THEN you end up stripping the bolt(s), THEN you can resort to drilling - again as you said, K.I.S.S...

#27 OFFLINE   longrider

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 03:20 PM

Regarding the Hughesnet dish, that wont work as they use 2 5/16 pipe. I had the same thought when I went HD years ago and had an unused Hughes dish but it wont work

My Setup


#28 OFFLINE   Beerstalker

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 03:37 PM

PLEASE...before you resort to all that drilling - just use the 2 bolts "as is". ;)
The good thing with just using those...you CAN actually do some correction on making the pipe (adaptor) level, to make aiming the dish easier. If THEN you end up stripping the bolt(s), THEN you can resort to drilling - again as you said, K.I.S.S...


OK, I'll trust your judgement on this since you've used them. I'll use it as is unless I start having issues.

Regarding the Hughesnet dish, that wont work as they use 2 5/16 pipe. I had the same thought when I went HD years ago and had an unused Hughes dish but it wont work


Didn't realize that, good to know. I assume then the mast foot wouldn't work either then since the ears on it would be wider than the 2" OD pipe for the DirecTV J-mount? I'm not willing to risk a roof leak by removing the old Hughes Mast, so that option is probably out.
Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn’t drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
-by Jack Handy

#29 OFFLINE   TigersFanJJ

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Posted 07 June 2012 - 08:55 PM

It always amazes me how people will try so hard to do something the wrong way. Then complain how it dosent work. IMHO put in the correct pole cemented in then remove the wrong pole.


Just because it isn't ideal, doesn't necessarily mean it is the wrong way. There is more than one way to fix this and make it a good, solid mount. If you factor in the possibility of having to buy all new cable and the labor to bury it (if the existing cables are running through the concrete), it makes even more sense to use an alternative option.

If all we are going to do is sit back and critique, we can do the same with a pole mount. While a proper pole mount isn't bad, it is hardly the best thing out there. The walls of the Directv supplied poles are made too thin, causing them to flex too much under heavy winds (an average day here in west Texas). And if the pole isn't installed properly, it can be the worst mount of all.

#30 OFFLINE   Beerstalker

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 09:14 AM

OK, so I fibbed. One more question. Can anyone verify the Skywalker SKY1101 is the same thing, just from a different manufacturer. I can save $10 getting this one from SolidSignal instead of the one DishRich posted (Wired@Homes shipping is ridiculous $14 where SolidSignals is $4).

http://www.solidsign...lue-Compatible-
Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn’t drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver."
-by Jack Handy

#31 OFFLINE   dishrich

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 10:55 AM

Same thing, here it is right from SW's own website: (same SW part# from your link)

http://www.skywalker...D__SKY1101.aspx

#32 OFFLINE   eakes

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 01:56 PM

The 'split pipe' should work OK. But I would get a large hose clamp and position right above the lower screw and around both pipes. This should counter the tendency for the split pipe to spread at its lower extreme.

#33 OFFLINE   wallfishman

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Posted 08 June 2012 - 09:42 PM

OK, so I fibbed. One more question. Can anyone verify the Skywalker SKY1101 is the same thing, just from a different manufacturer. I can save $10 getting this one from SolidSignal instead of the one DishRich posted (Wired@Homes shipping is ridiculous $14 where SolidSignals is $4).

http://www.solidsign...lue-Compatible-


The best way in my opinion would be to put a 2 inch pipe inside what you have and self tap it. put about 8 of them in there. I do it all the time with hughesnet masts and hughesnet poles. For some added piece of mind when you are done drill 2 - 3/8 inch holes through everything and put 2 bolts thru it. everything I just told you can be done in 15 minutes and will be 10 times stronger than those pipe adapters. we arent allowed to use them for KAKU dishes at all. They are fine for the little 18 inch dishes, but I wouldnt use for the bigger dishes. The bolts strip, they are kinda junky if you ask me. some 1/4 self tapping screws are very strong and 8 of them arent going anywhere , ever.

#34 OFFLINE   bytor

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Posted 09 June 2012 - 01:19 PM

I would use uni-strut with the correct pipe strut clamps and strut nuts. you can get the correct size strut clamp for the pipe in question. Then you can cut your uni-strut long so you can also use the uni poles.

http://www.dbstalk.c...ad.php?t=200161

i know my install is a littel different than yours but beleive me as a comercial electrician i have used pipe clamps and uni-strut for years and when done correctly it can be a very solid installation.

Edited by bytor, 09 June 2012 - 01:24 PM.





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