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Dish cancelling my account?


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63 replies to this topic

#26 OFFLINE   DoyleS

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 05:07 PM

After rereading the posts, it sure sounds like a combination of Firmware updates on the 722s as they were common and problematic last year until a stable update came out. I had that problem with a 622 but now my 722s have been solid.
It also sounds a lot like temperature issues based on your fan description. I am assuming you have had the service plan through all of this.
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#27 OFFLINE   runner861

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 05:23 PM

OK - my house was new construction when purchased 4 1/2 years ago. New sub-division. I purchased the first house in this sub-division. Now there are about 40 houses here. At least 8 others in my neighborhood have Dish, including my next-door neighbor.

House has RG-6 installed throughout.

A.C. power has been checked - multiple times. It is normally around 121 volts.

All signals check out fine: power, sat lines, RG-6.

I've had no issues with any other electronics. Computers, TV's, tread mill, light bulbs, etc. With "candle-style" bulbs in ceiling fans, I do replace one bulb every 2-3 months. But, considering that I have six of these four-light fixtures, that isn't out of the ordinary. I've replaced one CFL in the past four years.

Like I stated in the beginning, the first three years - I didn't have any issues.

One other note - have tried connecting directly to wall, connection to a single-outlet surge-protector (receiver only,) and connecting all equipment to a surge protector strip (receiver, TV, EHD power supply, DVD player.) At this moment, I have a 6-outlet surge protector connected to the wall outlet. I have TV, receiver, and EHD power supply connected. Nothing else.

Another note - when I had files that cross-linked, and one with an error, I did not have EHD or EHD power supply connected.


I would look at construction defects in the house--particularly faulty materials. There was a lot of drywall from China in use around the time that your house was built. Some of it was faulty, containing formaldehyde and other chemicals that would gradually vent out, sometimes causing destruction to equipment, including electrical equipment, plumbing, and wiring, as well as illness to occupants.

#28 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 07:14 PM

I still don't understand what any of this has to do with them giving you the boot.

Unless you've been , ummm, 'troublesome' on the phone.



The only time that I have raised my voice was
- when my current receiver was.... when my current 922 was installed, then I lefft the next day and was out of town for three days.
- when I returned, I found that there were four events on the DVR that couldn't play due to error or cross-linking (just my words, as the channel that the event showed in the 1-2 seconds available was for the other event,)
- I called and asked what needed to be done.
- I was told that they would check and call me back within 48 hours.
- After 2 1/2 days, I called back to find out what was going on. I was told that there was a problem with my receiver, but they couldn't send me another one as I had two others that hadn't "cleared" yet.
- A couple of days later, after another DVR event with an error, I called back.
- This was a Saturday. I was told that I technician could come see about it on Monday afternoon.
- Monday came. Around 2pm, I realized that no one had called. I logged in to check My Appointments. There was none.
- I called Dish to see what was going on.
- I was told that "you were obviously mistaken about the appointment, because there isn't one scheduled."
- At that point... yes, I raised my voice. But no one seemed to care.
- On Thursday, a "supervisor" with executive resolution team said that he was going to send me another 922. I asked about going back to a 722, and was told that wasn't possible.
- On Monday, I called as this has not been shipped yet.
- The next call I received was that they were going to cancel my account because "Dish cannot provide the service that I deserve."

#29 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 07:16 PM

...I am assuming you have had the service plan through all of this.


Yes, I've been paying it for over four years now.

#30 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 07:19 PM

I would look at construction defects in the house--particularly faulty materials. There was a lot of drywall from China in use around the time that your house was built. Some of it was faulty, containing formaldehyde and other chemicals that would gradually vent out, sometimes causing destruction to equipment, including electrical equipment, plumbing, and wiring, as well as illness to occupants.


I have been craving egg rolls lately.

RG-6 was replaced within the past 6 months, from the LNB to the receiver.

While all the receivers have been an "irritation", I didn't get "ill" until I heard that they were going to discontinue my service...

#31 OFFLINE   Stewart Vernon

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 07:49 PM

Random question... IF your house was new construction 4.5 years ago, why was there a need to replace the RG-6 within the last 6 months?

Only the new Hoppers actually require RG-6... RG-59 that is even 10+ years old should be fine for a 922... I know because that's what I had in a previous location before I moved.

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#32 OFFLINE   Inkosaurus

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:30 PM

Have you tried appealing your case to a higher level

He has made it clear that hes speaking to ERT agents, which IIRC are higher level then the DIRT agents who post here :)

I still don't understand what any of this has to do with them giving you the boot.


Unless you've been , ummm, 'troublesome' on the phone.


Dish reserves the right to refuse service to anyone for any reason. That doesnt mean that all involuntarily canceled members have been harassing CSR's (though its usually the case).

If they see that he is constantly calling in and not getting his issue resolved there is 1 last resort to finally "dealing" with the problem.

@Op, I know your house is "new" but with how shady contractors are sometimes that doesnt mean the wiring is top notch. Dish receivers can be finicky if the wiring in a home isnt great or starts getting shorts.

Im almost positive the issue is somewhere in the wiring of your home rather then in the receivers, your issue is not common at all and its far to much of a coincidence to get that many "bad" receivers back to back.

#33 OFFLINE   gokartergo

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 09:51 PM

This is a long shot but.. What type of internet do you have?? I once did a install... Everything was fine.. 3 days later the customer calls me up.. Says the receiver is going crazy. I go in and attempt a check switch.. It wouldn't go through.. Finally on the third try it did.. I go out and follow the line I just put in.. Comcast grounded to the same source I had earlier.. I moved my ground and it was fine.. I know I am grasping at straws...

#34 OFFLINE   Gloria_Chavez

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:05 PM

Dish reserves the right to refuse service to anyone for any reason. That doesnt mean that all involuntarily canceled members have been harassing CSR's (though its usually the case).


Given the number of service calls, no way the account could be profitable for Dish.

Source of problem? If drywall, why doesn't it affect other electronics. If electrical, why don't PCs reboot?

Wyy183, if you do get D*, please let us know if problem persists.
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#35 OFFLINE   Davenlr

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 10:08 PM

One mouse in the wall, or with access to the coax, can and will eat the shield off the coax causing shorts. So will a 90 degree bend inside the wall during the initial run. Lots of possibilities. Best test, run a new coax outside the house and run it through a door or window temporarily, connect it up, and see if the problems disappear.

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#36 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 02:34 PM

Random question... IF your house was new construction 4.5 years ago, why was there a need to replace the RG-6 within the last 6 months?

Only the new Hoppers actually require RG-6... RG-59 that is even 10+ years old should be fine for a 922... I know because that's what I had in a previous location before I moved.


RG-6 was replaced because it was an easy replacement, just to confirm that there wasn't a problem with it. (aka - grasping at straws.)

#37 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 02:40 PM

This is a long shot but.. What type of internet do you have?? I once did a install... Everything was fine.. 3 days later the customer calls me up.. Says the receiver is going crazy. I go in and attempt a check switch.. It wouldn't go through.. Finally on the third try it did.. I go out and follow the line I just put in.. Comcast grounded to the same source I had earlier.. I moved my ground and it was fine.. I know I am grasping at straws...


For internet, I have Comcast "economy". I think it is 1MB, but $14.95/mo. I don't stream anything, just basic stuff. Most of my email I do on my phone...

Internet comes in to the east side of my house, via a separate RG-6. Box is attached to east side of my house. Ground wire runs out of box and is connected to a ground that it shares with an electrical panel there.

E* satellite is on the south side of my house. Splitters, separators, etc., are located about 5' from the dish, in the crawl-space of my house. Access door is right beside the dish which is bolted to lower-brick "foundation" of house. Dish, and all connectors are grounded to a copper water pipe.

They have removed ground, for a while. Redone ground, and wires on a separate trip weeks later.

#38 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 02:45 PM

One mouse in the wall, or with access to the coax, can and will eat the shield off the coax causing shorts. So will a 90 degree bend inside the wall during the initial run. Lots of possibilities. Best test, run a new coax outside the house and run it through a door or window temporarily, connect it up, and see if the problems disappear.


Understood - see posts #30, and #36.

In addition, moved receiver from my bonus room to my living room.

On another note - all "hardware" where connections go, have been replaced, including the LNB (tech accidentally pulled dish loose from brick with doing that - DOH! Another tech who fixed it said, "he must have tried to stand on it or something!")

#39 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 03:10 PM

He has made it clear that hes speaking to ERT agents, which IIRC are higher level then the DIRT agents who post here :)

Dish reserves the right to refuse service to anyone for any reason. That doesnt mean that all involuntarily canceled members have been harassing CSR's (though its usually the case).

If they see that he is constantly calling in and not getting his issue resolved there is 1 last resort to finally "dealing" with the problem.


When I heard that I was transferred to the ERT, and the first one that I talked to gave me her direct number, I thought that was a good thing.

YMMV - but my experience with the ERT was "there is no problem with the equipment or service - you are using the system outside of the design specifications. It is your fault."

There didn't seem to be anyone who was concerned about the issues. It seemed that there job was to be "No" people. Most CSR's seemed willing to help. No one on the ERT had that attitude, with me. I suppose I was on a "black list" of some kind...

I spoke with multiple people on the ERT. Four of them promised to call me back about issues. None of them did. It was an ERT supervisor who told me that recording to the DVR for more than 2 1/2 - 3 hours a day would cause the errors that I was having. (Maybe he doesn't realize that the DVR is recording the whole time that it is turned on, whether it is "recording" an event or just recording current tuner for "buffer.") Another person on the ERT told me that not turning the receiver off at least once a day, for several hours (overnight recommended,) would cause hard drive errors. Two of the techs who where here both said "That's the first I've heard of that! I (we) never turn mine (ours) off."

I got the impression that the ERT was comprised of people who they couldn't let go for some reason and had to have a place to put them. You know - can't fire them so you promote them.

Any, just my opinion, and my experience.

I've spent most of the past 15 years doing a variety of technical support. I know what it is like on the other end of the line, and know that it isn't an easy thing to do every day. However, when I told someone that I was going to do something (call them back, ship something, etc.) then I am going to do it. I guess it comes down to integrity.

==============================

Hauppauge is up and running. My 2nd movie is finishing now. This will be handy no matter whose service I have in the future.

#40 OFFLINE   Davenlr

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 03:14 PM

Ground wire runs out of box and is connected to a ground that it shares with an electrical panel there.

Dish, and all connectors are grounded to a copper water pipe.

They have removed ground, for a while. Redone ground, and wires on a separate trip weeks later.


You are on the right track. Your DISH system MUST be grounded to the same ground rod as the Electric and Internet, or you are going to create a ground loop. They need to run a ground from the dish to the electric service ground (which I believe is what their installation instructions call for, but I dont have a copy to look at). Anything in your home entertainment system that is interconnected (via video, audio, HDMI, etc) should share the same ground as the electric service. In addition, make sure ALL your home entertainment equipment, power supplies, Dish LNB powered multiswitches, etc, are plugged into the SAME BRANCH circuit if you have a 220V house feed. All on L1, or all on L2, but not half on 1, half on 2. Voltage variations between L1 and L2 can cause issues rarely, but you are hunting a ghost here.

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#41 OFFLINE   runner861

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 03:17 PM

I know it is a big task, but I would recommend opening up the walls and looking at conditions inside where the wiring is running. You might be surprised at what you find. Also open up your breaker box and see what things look like where the switches are seated. However, unless you are a licensed contractor and electrician, I strongly recommend that you hire someone to do this in your presence. I don't want to see anyone injured. Electricity is dangerous.

#42 OFFLINE   DoyleS

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 03:45 PM

I am expecting someone to suggest you call Ghostbusters here shortly.
It sounds like you have pretty well eliminated the Coax as a problem especially since you have had some of it replaced.
Electrical power problems can be a bit tricky. The first one I would check would be to get one of those simple 3 prong plug checkers that makes sure that your outlets are properly wired. It will show a missing ground or reversed Hot and Neutral lines. If there was a contractor problem in terms of flaky wiring this might show it. To check the actual outlet, you would need a voltmeter to plug into one set of the Duplex outlets and a Hair Dryer for the other side. Turn the hair dryer on and see if the voltage at the outlet drops by more than a volt or 2. If it doesn't drop then you know that you have solid connections to the panel and street for that path. Any resistive connections would cause the voltage to drop more than that. As stated by others the probability of that many consecutive bad units is near impossible. Kind of like the chances of winning the lottery. That then implies that something in your system is causing these units to fail. I don't buy the chemical or bad sheetrock argument as that would take some time to cause the level of corrosion that would cause a failure. The more likely item is some sort of transient on one of the lines coming into the receiver. Power, Coax, Internet or the output lines going to a TV, flat panel etc. You can disconnect the Internet and the system will still run. Checking the output would require connecting to a different output device. I would think that transients on your power lines would have also damaged other equipment.
At this point it looks like you are headed for a change of service. Do keep us informed of the way things work out as this has been an interesting situation.
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#43 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:19 PM

You are on the right track. Your DISH system MUST be grounded to the same ground rod as the Electric and Internet, or you are going to create a ground loop. They need to run a ground from the dish to the electric service ground (which I believe is what their installation instructions call for, but I dont have a copy to look at). Anything in your home entertainment system that is interconnected (via video, audio, HDMI, etc) should share the same ground as the electric service. In addition, make sure ALL your home entertainment equipment, power supplies, Dish LNB powered multiswitches, etc, are plugged into the SAME BRANCH circuit if you have a 220V house feed. All on L1, or all on L2, but not half on 1, half on 2. Voltage variations between L1 and L2 can cause issues rarely, but you are hunting a ghost here.


This makes perfect sense to me, and I'm most certainly familiar with L1, L2 as I have done X-10 devices at different times.

922, TV, DVD, EHD connections are on the same outlet.

#44 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:26 PM

I know it is a big task, but I would recommend opening up the walls and looking at conditions inside where the wiring is running. You might be surprised at what you find. Also open up your breaker box and see what things look like where the switches are seated. However, unless you are a licensed contractor and electrician, I strongly recommend that you hire someone to do this in your presence. I don't want to see anyone injured. Electricity is dangerous.


Thanks for the warning; however, I've spent my share of time inside breaker boxes. I've flipped my share of Main's in my life (probably more than 100.)

My house actually has two full-size (20+ slot) breaker boxes. One in my garage that services my kitchen, kitchen appliances, garage, hot water heater, bonus room, bonus room HVAC unit, etc. The other one is the "main" and is on the opposite end of the house, which does living room, 3 BR's, 2 baths, laundry, and heat pump.

#45 OFFLINE   DoyleS

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:30 PM

Based on your comments, you are pretty familiar with electrical systems. If you have a scope, you might try looking at any line transients generated when either your HVAC or Heat Pump turn on. They are probably the biggest draws and both with large motors could be introducing some good sized transients on the line.
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#46 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:34 PM

I am expecting someone to suggest you call Ghostbusters here shortly.


I did: 1-800-433-DISH :)

It sounds like you have pretty well eliminated the Coax as a problem especially since you have had some of it replaced.


Yep.

Electrical power problems can be a bit tricky. The first one I would check would be to get one of those simple 3 prong plug checkers that makes sure that your outlets are properly wired. It will show a missing ground or reversed Hot and Neutral lines. If there was a contractor problem in terms of flaky wiring this might show it. To check the actual outlet, you would need a voltmeter to plug into one set of the Duplex outlets and a Hair Dryer for the other side. Turn the hair dryer on and see if the voltage at the outlet drops by more than a volt or 2. If it doesn't drop then you know that you have solid connections to the panel and street for that path. Any resistive connections would cause the voltage to drop more than that. As stated by others the probability of that many consecutive bad units is near impossible. Kind of like the chances of winning the lottery. That then implies that something in your system is causing these units to fail. I don't buy the chemical or bad sheetrock argument as that would take some time to cause the level of corrosion that would cause a failure. The more likely item is some sort of transient on one of the lines coming into the receiver. Power, Coax, Internet or the output lines going to a TV, flat panel etc. You can disconnect the Internet and the system will still run. Checking the output would require connecting to a different output device. I would think that transients on your power lines would have also damaged other equipment.


Field service manager brought a plug-in tester. Other techs have, as well. Every outlet they have checked has been wired fine.

Right - I've had zero problems with any electronics: TV's, desktop computer (on a different circuit or the same circuit.)

Haven't done the hairdryer test, but I might try that later, just for the fun of it.

At this point it looks like you are headed for a change of service. Do keep us informed of the way things work out as this has been an interesting situation.


I've been trying to get D* setup, but my bank hosed up my account. They lost my address in a "glitch" they had. It also separated my debit card from my account. These disabled my account. Should be fixed by Monday.

Maybe I need to write a book? Play the lottery like you said? :confused:

#47 OFFLINE   wyy183

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:38 PM

Based on your comments, you are pretty familiar with electrical systems. If you have a scope, you might try looking at any line transients generated when either your HVAC or Heat Pump turn on. They are probably the biggest draws and both with large motors could be introducing some good sized transients on the line.


I have a stethoscope, but I think the patient is already dead! No pulse... :D

#48 OFFLINE   DoyleS

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 04:58 PM

I have to say, your humor through this situation is admirable.
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#49 OFFLINE   boba

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 05:39 PM

Has DISH given a date when service will be terminated?

#50 OFFLINE   Inkosaurus

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Posted 21 September 2012 - 08:12 PM

There didn't seem to be anyone who was concerned about the issues. It seemed that there job was to be "No" people. Most CSR's seemed willing to help. No one on the ERT had that attitude, with me. I suppose I was on a "black list" of some kind...


The big difference here is the CSR's calls get randomly recorded ;)
Once you go above the CSR level (be it frontline, loyalty or advanced tech/Dr. Dish) and speak to supervisor+ level agents you always run the chance of running into someone whos been there long enough to know there not getting recorded.
When I worked there, I used to hear a loyalty supervisor drop F-Bombs to customers if they agitated her enough lol.

So I doubt you were on a "black list" Im pretty sure they just didnt care.
About there "suggestions", the recording thing is them grasping at straws to make up an excuse to get you off there call.

The "leaving it off" thing while a bit exaggerated actually has basis in truth. It is definitely recommended to atleast power down your receiver every now and again. Though for a minimum of 1 minute (for a full power down). Anything beyond that is over kill and makes no difference unless your wanting to let it cool off.
Theres a reason why front line CSR's always ask if you have powered it down recently, and thats because habitual powering down of Receivers can extend there lifetime greatly.

I got the impression that the ERT was comprised of people who they couldn't let go for some reason and had to have a place to put them. You know - can't fire them so you promote them.

:lol: If only lol. ERT is generally filled with agents who have been there atleast a year and were probably either supervisors or CSS (basically supervisors without teams under them).
They *can* be really helpful but like you have experienced there are always going to be people there who dont care and that department makes it really easy for them not to.




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