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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Cleaning Remote Contacts


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10 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Mike109

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 12:42 AM

The Pause button on the 722k remote needs a very firm press in order for it to work. How do you open up the remote in order to clean the contacts? On remotes that I have owned usually carefully prying the top from bottom will open them. I cannot find any hidden screws & don't want to break something on this leased item.

Is there a proper method to open the remote and/or a recommended area to pry?

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#2 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 09:19 AM

Experience and perhaps one to broke while you are learning where are the latches and what profile of these and how to start. Inspect all removable parts like a label (check under), plastic tab. etc to find a screw first. Use flat plastic stick to pray.

#3 OFFLINE   Henry

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Posted 12 October 2012 - 11:48 AM

The Pause button on the 722k remote needs a very firm press in order for it to work. How do you open up the remote in order to clean the contacts? On remotes that I have owned usually carefully prying the top from bottom will open them. I cannot find any hidden screws & don't want to break something on this leased item.

Is there a proper method to open the remote and/or a recommended area to pry?


Mike;

It's been my experience that these remotes are hard to open without damaging the case or its innards. I had the same problem with my 5.3 IR remote and even found a screw when I took the battery compartment cover off. Even then I was unsuccesful in getting the unit opened (for fear of damaging it).

I eventually ordered new replacements (two) and found them to be reasonably priced. Programming them was also relatively easy.

I'm not sure what DIRT will recommend, but at least you know you have an option.
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#4 OFFLINE   Mike109

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 03:46 AM

I got it open. After removing the battery cover you can see 2 small slots on the end where small tabs on the cover go into. I inserted & rotated a screwdriver in one of these which in turn applies pressure between the 2 case halves. Then about half inch up the side from this I forced another small screwdriver into the seam & pressed inward. It took a lot of pressure to release the first tab. Then I inserted a small plastic scraper/putty knife into the slightly opened seam & gently forced it along & un-snapped the other tabs. I used some very fine emery cloth to touch up any dings along the seam. The slot at the end where I started got chewed up & I straightened it out best possible. It's covered by the battery cover so you never see it.

Cleaned off the dirty/oily spot on the circuit board with a Q-Tip & alcohol. Put it back together & it works like new.

#5 OFFLINE   Henry

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 08:54 AM

I got it open. After removing the battery cover you can see 2 small slots on the end where small tabs on the cover go into. I inserted & rotated a screwdriver in one of these which in turn applies pressure between the 2 case halves. Then about half inch up the side from this I forced another small screwdriver into the seam & pressed inward. It took a lot of pressure to release the first tab. Then I inserted a small plastic scraper/putty knife into the slightly opened seam & gently forced it along & un-snapped the other tabs. I used some very fine emery cloth to touch up any dings along the seam. The slot at the end where I started got chewed up & I straightened it out best possible. It's covered by the battery cover so you never see it.

Cleaned off the dirty/oily spot on the circuit board with a Q-Tip & alcohol. Put it back together & it works like new.


Congrats! :jump3:
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#6 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 09:29 AM

Next time while opening plastic cases, avoid using screwdrivers, any metal tool - use only plastic sticks, use minimal force. Location of tabs/latches usually require previous knowledge or/and by getting pictures from Internet.

#7 OFFLINE   Henry

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 11:24 AM

Next time while opening plastic cases, avoid using screwdrivers, any metal tool - use only plastic sticks, use minimal force. Location of tabs/latches usually require previous knowledge or/and by getting pictures from Internet.


Good advice, P.
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#8 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 05:09 PM

It come as hard earned knowledge and habits after decades of fixing anything ...

#9 OFFLINE   Jim5506

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 04:20 PM

Just opened up my 5.3 IR remote used on a 211.

Several buttons were getting difficult to actuate without heavy pressure.

Used an old credit card sliding it up from the battery cover end to top on one side to seperate halves.

Under the rubber diaphram the board and rubber both appear to be oily or wet.

Should I wipe or clean that liquid off or leave it?

I have never seen something like that on a remote board/buttons.

Popped open the remote off an old 301 that I have and rubber and board are both dry.

Substance is not evaporating, could it be something off the rubber as it ages, like the film on your windshield as plastics in the car off-gas?

Edited by Jim5506, 14 October 2012 - 10:25 PM.

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#10 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 08:54 PM

see post above about rubbing/cleaning alcohol ;) it must be dry - no oil

#11 OFFLINE   Mike109

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Posted 14 October 2012 - 11:55 PM

One article I saw said it was silicone oil coming out of the rubber.
http://www.michaelsh...iliconeoil.html

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol & a few Q-Tips to clean the wet substance off the circuit board & the mating rubber contact. You might want to clean it a couple times to make sure you get it as clean as possible. In fact you might want to clean all the contacts while you have it open.

If you take an ohmmeter & check the black coating on the rubber part that contacts the circuit board you will find the black is conductive. Not zero resistance but low enough to trigger the appropriate circuit.

I really tried to be gentle but that just was not working. Initially I did use plastic and kept increasing the force at the seam but nothing was giving. The few Internet articles said to start on the side near the top, but again that did not work for me. In fact my wife had to hold the remote so I could press hard enough to get the first latch to unhook. If I ruined the remote I still had the UHF one to use, and also a Harmony & RCA one. Basically I had nothing to lose because the Dish IR remote was sort of useless without a Pause function.

Edited by Mike109, 15 October 2012 - 12:08 AM.





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