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Guest Message by DevFuse

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DirecTV with a Generator


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368 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   llupin

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 12:18 PM

For those of you trying to connect your TV and DirecTV receivers to a generator, remember that you need to plug the SWM power source in as well. I learned this during Isaac last month (good thing I had some really long extension cords). Also, make sure to use surge protectors and not plug any electronic components directly into a generator.

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#2 OFFLINE   jimmie57

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 12:25 PM

+1

I did not have SWM when IKE paid us a visit here but I did have a generator and 4, 100 foot outdoor extension cords to run to the TVs and computers in the house.

DirecTV customer since 1996 - Current :Slimline 3 SWM,   HR24-100 HDMI to 32" Sharp LED,
HR24-100 Component cables to 46" Samsung LCD & Optical Cable to Yamaha AVR, H21-200 HDMI to Yamaha AVR & HDMI to 52" Mitsubishi LCD


#3 OFFLINE   onan38

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 01:41 PM

I installed a transfer switch after the ice storm several years ago with a plug on back of the house,just plug hit 10 switches on the transfer box powers my whole house on a 5500 watt generator. Be sure to also ground the generator it should have a place to put a ground wire.

Edited by onan38, 01 November 2012 - 08:28 PM.


#4 OFFLINE   phran

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 01:56 PM

Thanks for the tip. I used a genny during Irene but I've had SWM installed since then. The lights flickered an hour ago, so it won't be long now.....

#5 OFFLINE   davring

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 02:47 PM

A good UPS is a life saver, it will keep the system up and running while you feed and water the gen set. We had to rely on a 5500 watt unit for two weeks after Wilma.

#6 OFFLINE   fleckrj

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Posted 29 October 2012 - 06:27 PM

Do not forget to ground the generator. I use a car jumper cable to connect the frame of the generator to a ground rod.

#7 OFFLINE   JeffBowser

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:03 AM

They say not to ground your genny to the house ground, I never understood that very well. I have my genny grounded to a ground rod that is driven in right next to my copper water main, But, even then, this ground rod is only 4 feet long, a ground rod is supposed to be 8 feet long.

Anyway, I once ran my DirecTV setup (and the rest of the house) for 6 weeks on a 5500 watt genny after hurricane Wilma. Ran great, although at the rate of 10 gallons of gas a day.
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#8 OFFLINE   fleckrj

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:12 AM

They say not to ground your genny to the house ground, I never understood that very well. I have my genny grounded to a ground rod that is driven in right next to my copper water main, But, even then, this ground rod is only 4 feet long, a ground rod is supposed to be 8 feet long.

Anyway, I once ran my DirecTV setup (and the rest of the house) for 6 weeks on a 5500 watt genny after hurricane Wilma. Ran great, although at the rate of 10 gallons of gas a day.


I think the reason you should not ground the generator to the house ground is to protect line workers who are trying to restore power. I, too, have a separate ground rod just for my generator, but it is a regulation 8 foot copper clad ground rod that I drove into the ground near where I park the generator. When the generator is in use, I use a car jumper cable to connect the generator to the ground rod.

#9 OFFLINE   JeffBowser

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:24 AM

I've been thinking about bonding two 5 foot rods together - give me 8 feet of subsurface contact, and a foot above for cable clamps. This does not meet the letter of the code, but should accomplish the same thing. I had trouble enough driving the 4 foot rod, let alone drive an 8 footer.

I think the reason you should not ground the generator to the house ground is to protect line workers who are trying to restore power. I, too, have a separate ground rod just for my generator, but it is a regulation 8 foot copper clad ground rod that I drove into the ground near where I park the generator. When the generator is in use, I use a car jumper cable to connect the generator to the ground rod.


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#10 ONLINE   harsh

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:39 AM

This does not meet the letter of the code, but should accomplish the same thing.

Whether it creates a battery or some other electrolysis issue, two rods within 6' of each other are not allowed by codes in several jurisdictions. In most of these cases, two 8' rods spaced more than 6' apart are required.

Do a web search for "two ground rods".

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#11 OFFLINE   Combat Medic

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:42 AM

I've been thinking about bonding two 5 foot rods together - give me 8 feet of subsurface contact, and a foot above for cable clamps. This does not meet the letter of the code, but should accomplish the same thing. I had trouble enough driving the 4 foot rod, let alone drive an 8 footer.


The trick to driving the grounding rods is that commercial hammer drills have an adapter that will let the hammer drill drive the ground rod.

#12 OFFLINE   JeffBowser

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 09:46 AM

Right. Simple. If only I knew someone with the tools. :lol:

The trick to driving the grounding rods is that commercial hammer drills have an adapter that will let the hammer drill drive the ground rod.


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#13 OFFLINE   fleckrj

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 11:49 AM

I managed to drive an 8 foot rod with a sledge hammer. The first two feet were the hardest, because after each hit, I had to stop the rod from vibrating. I got it in without breaking any hands, so all is good.

#14 OFFLINE   longrider

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 02:10 PM

Here is what you need for the ground rod:

Posted Image

Once the post driver bottoms out on the ground the last foot is easy with a sledgehammer

http://www.homedepot...ml#.UJBW-O-M58F

Edited by longrider, 30 October 2012 - 04:39 PM.
forgot link

My Setup

#15 OFFLINE   n3ntj

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 02:59 PM

Sharing a ground rod b/w a generator and your home's electric supply won't affect a utility worker whatsoever. Connecting any other part of your generator into your breaker panel/house electrical service (without a proper transfer switch) COULD indeed injure a utility worker. IRC requires at least 8' of continuous earth contact for a proper low resistance grounding system. Isometrically bonding two (same exact composition metal) 5' ground rods (where would you even get them this size?) together could be done, but most people don't have the proper tools to do this. Using a single 8' ground rod (available at any hardware store) would make the most sense. Some areas of Canada (for example) require dual 8' ground rods approx. 10' apart for new service installs.

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#16 OFFLINE   HarleyD

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 04:59 PM

Had to deal with this after Hurricane Charley in '04. Ran a 100' extension cord up to the powered multiswitch in the attic of my 2-story home.

I had so many things plugged into my 5500W generator that when I had to shut it down to refuel I had to plug things back into the generator one or two at a time following a specific sequence as not to overload it all at once with the current spike associated with them starting up. Refrigerators, Freezer (these draw HUGE current spikes when they come on) and AC units first, then TVs, STBs, Multiswitch, Aquariums and lamps.

It only lasted a week but it felt a lot longer.
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#17 OFFLINE   Combat Medic

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Posted 30 October 2012 - 08:43 PM

Right. Simple. If only I knew someone with the tools. :lol:


Think of it as an excuse to buy a new tool.

#18 OFFLINE   Cyber36

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Posted 31 October 2012 - 11:21 AM

The only way to harm a service worker is to NOT shut off the main switch at the top of the panel while your backfeeding..........

#19 OFFLINE   JeffBowser

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Posted 31 October 2012 - 11:56 AM

A transfer switch is the proper way. Live in a hurricane prone area like I do, and you quickly learn taking shortcuts with dryer outlets is not the way to go, as some of my neighbors stubbornly insist on doing.

The only way to harm a service worker is to NOT shut off the main switch at the top of the panel while your backfeeding..........


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#20 OFFLINE   Rich

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 10:02 AM

Had to deal with this after Hurricane Charley in '04. Ran a 100' extension cord up to the powered multiswitch in the attic of my 2-story home.

I had so many things plugged into my 5500W generator that when I had to shut it down to refuel I had to plug things back into the generator one or two at a time following a specific sequence as not to overload it all at once with the current spike associated with them starting up. Refrigerators, Freezer (these draw HUGE current spikes when they come on) and AC units first, then TVs, STBs, Multiswitch, Aquariums and lamps.

It only lasted a week but it felt a lot longer.


What you were seeing with the refrigerators and freezers when they first come on is "inrush current". Takes only seconds (or less) to subside. But you did the right thing. If you hadn't pulled all the plugs before starting, you would have probably tripped the generators breakers. Once you have everything running, there will still be instances of inrush current each time the compressors in the refrigerators, freezers and AC units come on but the genny will handle that.

Rich




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