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Signal problems on 22 receiver system


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#1 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 04:30 PM

I own a sports bar, with 22 receivers located with TVs throughout the bar. There are 6 H24-700s with AM21, the rest are H20-100 or H20-600. I have the slimline 5LNB dish, with the four feeds each split using a widespread diode steering splitter, with one going to a WB68 (unpowered) and the other to WB616 (powered) and from there to each of the receivers, with each using a B-band converter since this is a non-SWM system. There is a separate run from the rooftop antenna (no diplexing) for each TV. I'm happy with how the antenna functions, no issues there.

The cable run from dish to splitters is probably 25-30 feet, the cable runs to TVs ranges from 40 feet to nearly 150 feet, with most probably in the 80-100 foot range. I sometimes have problems with channels like NFLND, ESPNUHD (but hardly ever ESPNHD or ESN2HD) I see problems with delays when changing channels (lots of "searching for signal" messages for a few seconds before channel gets changed) and see some signal strenghts in the 70s and below. On a couple of the receivers connected via the WB68 I see 0 signal strength on the 99* satellites, on most others I see lots of 70s and 80s on those satellites with a few lower down in the 40s.

It has been this way for a while but as I have time to deal with it right now I want to see if it can be diagnosed and fixed, I just don't know where to start. I google for the types of issues I'm seeing and some people say it could be a bad dish alignment, others suggest a bad LNB on the dish, maybe I need a polarity locker and/or amplifier due to some of the cable lengths. I know I need to investigate multiple things, I just don't know where to start.

I guess as a first step I should have someone out to check the dish alignment and fine tune if necessary, but when I have them out I want them to do other tests to verify the LNB in the dish and check the signals. Is there something they can do to check signal strength in the cables themselves since I've read that what the receivers report is not all that reliable?

How would I know if I need an amplifier? If everything is function as good as possible, would an amplifier make it even better (i.e., even better able to resist rain fade, etc.) I'd be willing to pay a couple hundred bucks for that, but don't want to bother if there is some limit to how good the signals can get and an amplifier is pointless or possibly even makes things worse (can signals be TOO strong?)

I'm also confused about the need for a polarity locker. Some people say you don't need one if you have a powered multiswitch, but I have one which is powered and one which is unpowered - and I tend to see more trouble on the unpowered WB68. So perhaps I could benefit, or would it be a waste of money? I've heard it helps on systems with cable runs over 100', and those that see slow channel changes, and that sounds like my system. I see the slow channel changes on pretty much every receiver, regardless of which multiswitch it is connected to - even on those that are on short cable runs.

Anyone know what order I should proceed in this project, and what exactly I should have the satellite techs do to investigate other possible problems when I have them out to check/tune the satellite alignment? Once I know what the problems are I can order the parts and put them in myself - I'll do anything except work up on the roof :) I just don't want to start ordering parts and installing them and hoping to fix something and not taking care of whatever the real underlying issue(s) are.

Thanks for any help or suggestions anyone can provide!

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#2 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 07:36 AM

for starters, the H20-600s are known to have a TON of issues. are those the ones giving you problems?

#3 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:36 AM

Call Directv and have a Tech out.

Around here only in-house techs do service calls, we all have AIM's(Advanced Instalation Meters), which allow us to check the signal strength of all transponders anywhere along the line. If you told me what you posted when I got there I would start at the dish working my way back. If it where out of allignment I would want to know why, and fix that. The LNB would be inspected and most likely replaced. All the connectors would get replaced and any suspect wire. The splitters would all get replaced.

We no longer carry WB616's and I wouldn't really want to take a SWM16 off my truck on a service call. We could check the voltages of each port under load and each of the out to receiver ports to make sure they were provideing the proper signal. If not I would spring for the SWM16. The WB68 would likely be replaced, depending on age.

I'm not sure what we would do about all those H20's. Like peds48 said they are pretty old and I normally replace them with extreme prejudice. You do use OTA though so if they work we might have to leave them.

The good thing about calling Directv is, you have 90 day window each time a tech visits. If they don't get it right on the first visit it will get escalated till someone gets it right.
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#4 OFFLINE   cabletech

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 11:36 AM

Do all for the cables going to the tv's end at a central location that then is connected to your dish?

How are the WB's connected?

With what you describe, you need to get 4 dual power passing splitters, connect the dish feeds to the single port on each splitter then from the out puts feed to each wb making sure that the same spliter is feeding the same port on the WB.

If I were to come in to look at this the first thing I would do is recommand that the WB68 and WB616 be removed and replaced with a commerical 24 port splitter that then feeds each tv location.

#5 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 02:38 PM

Thanks for all the replies. To be honest I had no idea I could call a Directv tech for a commercial install. I was under the impression that they only did home installs, and business accounts always went through third party specialists. Perhaps the third party installer I used in the past left me with that impression for some reason! It sounds like I need to make a call to Directv, that AIM meter sounds like exactly what is needed to quickly diagnose my issues.

I'll try to answer all the specific questions asked about my install.

I only have two H20-600s, the rest of the H20s are -100s. The problems are by no means limited to the 600s, I even have some issues on the H24-700s, so I really don't think it is related to the receivers. Given that I see issues on all three types of receivers, on various cable lengths, and on both multiswitches (though worse on the WB68) I really believe the dish/LNB is the most likely culprit. All the cabling is high quality satellite grade cable, not re-purposed CATV cable, so other than some of the runs being rather long I don't see that as an issue. It is because of the widespread nature of the problem I started wondering whether polarity lockers or amplifiers would help me, but like I said in my first post I want to insure everything on the system now is working properly before I start messing with that type of stuff as a last resort.

All cabling runs are from a central location. The feeds from the dish come in and are then split into the WB68 and the WB616. I know the splitters between the dish and multiswitches are fine, I just replaced them yesterday with diode steered dual DC passing 3000 MHz splitters. When I investigated I noticed three of the splitters were 900 MHz DC passing, and I thought attenuation at higher frequencies could be the source of my problems. Unfortunately replacement didn't change anything, but at least I eliminated the splitters as a possible cause. I guess those splitters rated for 900 MHz really do work fine at much higher frequencies, at least the particular ones my third party installer had used.

It sounds like some of you are suggesting that I may want to upgrade to a SWM system. I think I should have Directv out first to see where I stand, but if they indicate any problems with either multiswitch rather than replacing them do you think I should take the opportunity to upgrade the whole system to SWM? From what I understand, the signal quality would remain the same, and since I have no use for DECA or MRV I have no compelling reason to want to switch, other than eliminating B-band converters and 5-6 year old multiswitches. The SWM32 seems to be quite expensive, while I am able to find some deals on SWM16s which I could connect to my existing splitters. What do you guys think?

#6 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 04:53 PM

The only major downside for you upgrading to SWM is the H20's. I don't think they support that. In your situation, you are probably better off staying with legacy multiswitches.

#7 OFFLINE   west99999

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 05:25 PM

H20 are swm compatible.

#8 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 15 February 2013 - 07:00 PM

H20 are swm compatible.


Okay, SWM but not whole-home. Thanks.

#9 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 07:38 PM

After some investigation, I decided to go ahead and upgrade my system to SWM now. I found a seller on EBay selling new in box SWM-16s that included two green label 8 port splitters and 29v power injector for $60 w/free shipping, so I bought a pair and will replace the WB68 and WB616. I'm quite happy with only $120 to upgrade everything, and I'll have lots of room for future expansion should I need it.

I preferred this over a single SWM-32 (even if the price was the same, which it wasn't...not even close) as I could still run most of my system on a single SWM-16 if one failed, rather than losing everything if the SWM-32 failed. I figure the signal quality ought to be the same either way since the satellite input ends up getting divided 32 ways with either solution.

The reason I decided to make the change now is that I found out the WB616 has been discontinued, and the H25 only works on SWM, so Directv seems to be moving in the direction of someday no longer supporting legacy installs. So I might as well take the plunge now when I'm already having issues with my system that could have something to do with my six year old multiswitches.

I still need to schedule Directv to come out and check the satellite and LNB, but I figure I'll wait until I've replaced the multiswitches. If I'm right in my belief that the cables and receivers are not an issue, getting the satellite aim tweaked and the LNB checked/replaced would hopefully see everything running smoothly. If not, at least having replaced the multiswitches would eliminate the next most likely candidate after the dish and LNB.

#10 OFFLINE   Floyd

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:22 AM

The SWM-16 module is not cascadable, which means that you will only be able to connect one module to your existing Slimline5 LNB that has 4 outputs. If your LNB is the source of your ongoing problem it should be replaced if problems continue after installing the SWM system. Do not get a single-output SWM-LNB, since it can only provide signal to 8 receivers.

To use SWM on both of your SWM-16 modules you will need to split the 4 lines coming in from the dish, which will allow you to then connect up to 32 receivers.

The device you will need is like this one: http://www.sonorades...trpmtrq5h6kcdt4

Another device that would work is the MST-771

Using SWM technology, a single cable can only carry the signal to 8 receivers, so you can use the SWM-8 splitter you mentioned to connect 8 receivers to a SWM-16 module, but you will need 3 of those splitters for 22(24) receivers.

The HF splitters you have might work in your application, without networking.

#11 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 07:31 PM

The SWM-16 module is not cascadable, which means that you will only be able to connect one module to your existing Slimline5 LNB that has 4 outputs. If your LNB is the source of your ongoing problem it should be replaced if problems continue after installing the SWM system. Do not get a single-output SWM-LNB, since it can only provide signal to 8 receivers.

To use SWM on both of your SWM-16 modules you will need to split the 4 lines coming in from the dish, which will allow you to then connect up to 32 receivers.

The device you will need is like this one: (SWM-E2 image link removed, stupid board complains about posting URLs)

Another device that would work is the MST-771

Using SWM technology, a single cable can only carry the signal to 8 receivers, so you can use the SWM-8 splitter you mentioned to connect 8 receivers to a SWM-16 module, but you will need 3 of those splitters for 22(24) receivers.

The HF splitters you have might work in your application, without networking.



I am going to leave the four splitters that currently split the satellite feeds to the WB616 and WB68 in place and connect them to the SWM-16s. They are high frequency diode steered dual DC passing, exactly what is required per the Directv docs I read at Sonora's site. The SWM-E2 is just six similar splitters packaged together, so I don't see the point of spending money on it as it won't provide me anything I wouldn't have with the splitters I've already got, other than looking fancier.

The SWM-16s I ordered each come with a pair of 8 way splitters, so I've got four total, one for each SWM output. My only concern there is that a few of the runs are probably very close to 150', which as I understand it is kind of the limit of assured stability. I figure I'm already tempting fate by having so many H20s! I don't have the equipment necessary to measure the actual length of a coax, those could be less if they take a very direct path, could be more if they take a roundabout way of getting there or have a lot of slack.

My plan is to group the four longest runs on a splitter by themselves, so that if they have problems the shorter runs don't have I can simply swap the 8 way for a 4 way and see if the extra 4 db is enough to help. Plan B is to move one of the H24s to the longest run to see if it works any better with a newer receiver. If that fails too, plan C is to get a one port Sonora SWM amp for the splitter going to those long runs.

I received the SWMs today, and plan to install them tomorrow morning. Perfect timing, since there's a big snowstorm coming later in the day. Not many customers around, so no pressure if I run into problems getting those H20s up on SWM and a bunch of TVs aren't working :)

#12 OFFLINE   PokerJoker

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 03:10 AM

Here's a suggestion - get rid of the splitters and use the old WB616 as your "splitter" instead. 4 lines in, 8 lines out with 8 spares, provides a way to expand up to 4 SWM-16s in the future. It also serves as a polarity locker. Plus it costs you nothing.

Yes, folks, I do know that passive splitters are theoretically more reliable than a powered device. It's just a suggested alternative. If the OP does go this route, I suggest that he also find another WB616 and put it away for future use, just in case the current one ever fails.

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#13 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 03:20 PM

Here's a suggestion - get rid of the splitters and use the old WB616 as your "splitter" instead. 4 lines in, 8 lines out with 8 spares, provides a way to expand up to 4 SWM-16s in the future. It also serves as a polarity locker. Plus it costs you nothing.

Yes, folks, I do know that passive splitters are theoretically more reliable than a powered device. It's just a suggested alternative. If the OP does go this route, I suggest that he also find another WB616 and put it away for future use, just in case the current one ever fails.

Keith



Why would I want to add a piece of equipment that could possibly fail in place of splitters which almost never fail? Especially a piece of equipment which is no longer manufactured and may someday be completely unsupported by Directv? Your suggestion doesn't make much sense to me, I can see the disadvantages of doing this but see no advantages. The SWM-16s are powered and lock polarity in the same way as a WB616 does. Even if I needed more SWM-16s I don't see why I wouldn't just add wider/more splitters.

#14 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 03:49 PM

Just wanted to update anyone following this thread or anyone who finds this googling in the future in a similar situation (because I hate the idiots who post a problem and get proposed solutions, then never follow up so you don't learn much as from the thread as you could if they took two minutes to post which solution was the correct one)

I tried and failed to install the SWM-16s today. Actually because I knew I could potentially have problems if my dish is slightly out of alignment or my LNB is bad, I did the following:

1. disconnected LNB feeds from the splitters, leaving the WB616 and WB68 in place
2. connected LNB feeds to SWM-16
3. removed BBCs and connected one H24-700 and one H20-100 to SWM1/SWM2 ports
4. connected the PI-29 to the SWM-16 DC/PWR port
5. powered on and both receivers and ran satellite setup

Both receivers immediately recognized they were now on a SWM system once I went to the satellite setup screen, but I couldn't complete setup on either one, due to getting a red X on the 103 even satellite (sometimes I also got a red X on the 99 odd) I tried powering down the receivers and SWM-16, and swapping the LNB feeds around a couple times in case one of the cables/connectors is bad, but the problem remained on 103 even every time. The signal strength on 103ca/cb ranges from low 70s to mid 80s, and I believe I've read that you need 85 to pass setup. I know I was able to run setup on a couple receivers about a year ago, so something degraded at some point since.

So I was forced to give up and put the system back as it was before, but while I was able to get the H24 back to legacy from SWM, I couldn't do so on the H20. I tried red button reset, pulling the plug for 15 minutes, etc. but every time it tried to start up it would search for satellite signal and try to acquire data from the satellite, but when I enter setup there's no menu - it takes me directly to the signal strength screen. It won't even show 0s, it just hangs. When I '+' forward to other satellites I eventually get to the SWM "satellite", showing it still thinks it is connected to a SWM multiswitch, even though it has a BBC on it.

Since there was no way for me to re-enter satellite setup, there is no way to take it off SWM. Little firmware bug in the H20s I guess! The H24 let me re-run satellite setup, and when I entered that screen it detected it was back on legacy and switched back, and even though I couldn't actually re-run satellite setup once I exited and power cycled the receiver it was fine. This is not a big deal, but it is a good thing I was smart enough to try it first on just two receivers or I may have ended up with a lot of interoperative H20s!!

I will need to have the satellite and LNB checked, but unfortunately I might have to wait a week or two. The big storm is moving in and if we get the half foot of snow forecast, plus possibly a little bit more early next week, it might take a little while for the snow to melt on the north facing side of the roof where the dish is mounted depending on how warm it gets. So my project is on hold until then. But the good news is that I'm now 100% certain that the dish/LNB are the source of most/all my issues, so when I get that corrected I'll be good to go.

#15 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 04:09 PM

Does the H20 offer a reset everything option, and if so have you tried that?

I do know that some receivers have more trouble going from SWM to legacy than others, multiple tries might let you recover that H20. People in the past have reported it taking multiple attempts (not necessarily with regard to the H20 specifically though).

#16 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 10:14 PM

Does the H20 offer a reset everything option, and if so have you tried that?

I do know that some receivers have more trouble going from SWM to legacy than others, multiple tries might let you recover that H20. People in the past have reported it taking multiple attempts (not necessarily with regard to the H20 specifically though).



Well, the problem is that the H20 now shows ONLY "Setup" as a choice when I hit menu, and when I select that I'm dumped directly to the satellite signal strength screen. There is no opportunity to do a reset everything or anything at all since there is no menu to offer those choices. Apparently that H20 is now a brick on a legacy system, but presumably will perk back up right away when it sees SWM again. But like I said, that has to wait until I get my dish/LNB fixed, and that'll have to wait until the snow falling right now melts off the roof. In hindsight I should have scheduled that visit for earlier this week since I knew the storm was coming :nono:

I think I have a brand new H24-700 and AM21 sitting in a box in the storage room. I know I bought an extra one as a spare, just can't remember if I had cause to use it. A few years back I had a few H20-600s die on me in quick succession and I decided having a spare was a better way to go. I'll probably go look for it after the weekend just so I can get that TV back up and running, but since its not football season having one TV turned off out of 22 is not that big of an issue.

#17 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 05:02 PM

Another update. Today I was finally able to have a guy in to check my dish/LNB. Before he arrived I disconnected both the WB616 and WB68 from the splitters, and directly connected two receivers to the dish and checked signal strength for the "before". I had readings ranging from 80-93 on 99c and 64-89 on 103ca (didn't check 103cb) He took one look at the readings and commented on the even transponders for 103ca being lower, then said "I'll bet your dish is tilted west". When he came back down from the roof all my readings were in the 90s on 99c and 103ca/cb. This guy's a keeper, he knows his stuff! :)

BUT something weird is still going on. Once I got the multiswitches hooked back up I saw the same weird stuff as before. Some receivers will show all 0s for 99c and/or one or both of the 103ca/cb dishes. I can try it and see all 0s, come back 10 minutes later and then I'm in the 90s, then check a couple test channels and immediately go back to check strength and I'm back to all 0s. Yes I'm 100% positive I have the splitters going to the same input on both multiswitches.

None of this affects what channels I can receive, however. I can tune all the test channels, everything comes in fine. I noticed that changing channels to either of the 99c test channels resulted in about 10 seconds of "searching for signal" before it locked in, but it was instant on the 103ca/cb test channels. I still see the problems with channels like ESPNUHD, NFLHD and so on that are on the 103 sats breaking up from time to time, while the ones on the 99 sat like ESPNHD and ESN2HD are always rock solid - other than taking 10 seconds of searching for signal before it locks in. Really weird! :confused: Obviously there are remaining problems, the question is, is it my legacy multiswitches, or is the LNB bad?

I'm going to make another attempt to swap out the legacy multiswitches for the pair of SWM-16s tomorrow morning. I'm not able to complete satellite setup right now - the 0s I keep getting on some sats are the obvious cause of that. Hopefully now that my dish is aimed correctly I'll be able to complete satellite setup on a couple receivers in SWM mode, which I couldn't last time. If it works I'll convert everything over and leave behind the gremlins that apparently possess my legacy multiswitches.:shrug: If it doesn't, time to order another LNB and have him back next week, because that would be the only thing left to "fix".

#18 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 05:44 AM

You sure let that Tech off light. You should have left everything connected and let him sweat. You didn't get your moneys worth.

The last bar I was in only had 5 receivers and TVs the last tech out did a box swap and hauled tail. It wasn't the box. I was there three hours.
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#19 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 08 March 2013 - 05:12 PM

I don't blame him at all for leaving when he did. I had heard from a few people he was the best satellite guy in the area so I called him directly (rather than calling Directv and taking my chances) He was leaving town for a week this weekend but said he could give me a half hour between appointments yesterday morning. Enough time to get the dish peaked and check out my grounding situation, so I was totally fine with that short of a window. I'd been at a standstill due to the poor signal I was getting from the dish, unable to effectively do any other troubleshooting until that was resolved. Everything else I was prepared to handle myself, but not this, since I don't see the logic in spending hundreds of dollars on a satellite meter I might use once and never need again.

More importantly, this morning I figured out what was going on! The dish aim problem was masking another problem that was impossible to see because of the poor signal I was getting from the dish. The weird stuff I posted about yesterday was apparently caused by the one foot jumpers between splitter and switches that the original installers had hand made! :mad: Or at least, that's another layer of the onion! :D

Originally, the splitters that connected to the WB68 and WB616 had been screwed in place between them, untouched for several years. I always felt the coax coming from the bottom two splitters had some awfully tight bends where they connected to the switches, so when I replaced the splitters (post #5) I moved them to a location where the coax would have less bend.

Last month when I made my initial attempt to install the SWM-16s, I had low numbers off the SWM-16 despite it being directly connected to the LNB (bypassing the splitters) Later I did a test where I plugged four receivers directly into each feed, to separately eliminate each coax (and its connector) coming from dish as a cause. I had very similar (bad) numbers on all four, so I figured the dish's aim and/or the LNB must be at the root of the problem and the coaxes were probably fine. It took me a month to get someone to fix the dish because it would snow, a week later the north side of the roof (where the dish is) would be just about melted, then it would snow again. This after a winter with almost no snow at all. :nono2:

After yesterday, when I got the dish's aim fixed so I could pass the "receiver connected directly to the dish" test fine, I decided an attempt to install the SWM-16s would eliminate either the LNB (if the SWM-16s worked) or the legacy switches (if the SWM-16 exhibited the same issues) Since so many weird things were going on, I decided to take things really slow, one step at a time, and make notes about what I was seeing.

First, I directly connected the SWM-16 to the four LNB feeds, connected a single H24 to a splitter on SWM1, and everything worked great. Low to mid 90s on 99 and 103 sats just like when the receivers were directly connected yesterday. I was able to easily do the satellite setup and have the receiver work via SWM, something which the poor signal from the dish had prevented a month ago. Finally, I was making progress!

I connected the LNB feeds back to the four splitters and connected the SWM-16 off the splitters, and added the remaining receivers from the WB68 to the 8 way splitter on SWM1, along with the H24 I'd connected directly to SWM1 and configured for SWM. Without a second multiswitch connected to the other splitter leg, I had mostly high readings but a few transponders on 99c were in the 60s. OK, I figured maybe I can't get the cables tight enough with these stupid rubber boots on the SWM-16, so I disconnected everything, removed all the boots, and reconnected everything, being careful to connect it exactly as before. Now 99c was great, but I saw a few low transponders on 103cb this time!

I was sure everything was in the same place, but maybe I'd made a mistake. I swapped 13v no tone with 18v 22Khz and vice versa to see if the problem moved. It did, now 99c had problems again. But not the same transponders as before. At this point I began swearing, and wondering if my building was built over an Indian burial ground.

I took a moment to stop and think, and thought maybe this SWM-16 or the PI-29 is bad. I swapped both, being extra careful to be certain I connected everything in the exact same place on the other one. The problem moved again, now on 103ca and 103cb, but the problem transponders on 103cb weren't the same ones as last time - and this time a couple were in the low 40s! The swearing grew louder, and my kitchen manager asked if I was OK :lol:

I realized something was randomly attenuating different frequencies every time I made a change, and suddenly I remembered how the jumpers off the bottom two splitters used to have tight bends and started just randomly pushing on the jumpers a bit while having one of my employees tell me what she was seeing on the signal strength on 99c (which started all 90-98s) Sometimes when I pushed on them it had no effect, sometimes it did, dropping one or more transponders down to the 80s, 70s or even 50s. I had her check 99c and 103ca while I touched them in sequence. Touching some would have an effect, others I could handle really roughly and the readings stayed almost exactly the same (for better or worse) Obviously some jumpers are bad, and some are not. I am guessing it is the ones that used to have the tight bends, but either way I'm blaming the original installers since they made the cables and put the splitters where some jumpers had overly tight bends! :mad:

At this point it was too late to mess around with things any more since we were going to open soon. I put the SWM-16 back on the LNB feeds so I could have good signal to complete satellite setup for SWM on the connected receivers, once that was done I connected the SWM-16 on one leg of the LNB splitters, the WB616 on the other leg, and massaged the cables a bit until I had most numbers above 88 on both except a few 60s/70s and one in the 50s. Figured that's gonna be good enough for now and I'll do a proper fix next week. Hopefully the onion doesn't have a third layer...

Luckily I had included a dozen assorted one, two and three foot jumpers from Summit Source on a recent order to have some around "just in case" but unfortunately they were still sitting in the box at home. Since I have them I'm going to replace all eight jumpers just to be safe rather than trying to eliminate just the "bad" ones of the current bunch.

#20 OFFLINE   slice1900

slice1900

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 02:28 PM

FYI, if anyone is following this, I got everything converted over to SWM yesterday, even the two troublesome H20-600s. The only way I found to convert a 600 was to connect it to a legacy port, tell it to do satellite setup with SWM, then with it sitting at the "recheck SWM" screen move it from the legacy port to the SWM splitter, then select "recheck SWM". Signal is good on everything, channel changes are quick, I'm very happy with the result!

When I did this I also made a start of cleaning up the horrific mess the third party installers had made. I should have done so a long time ago, but never had the time to devote to it. I took some "before" pictures, I'll have to post them when I'm done and have the "after". If there's a hall of fame for ugly install jobs, the before picture might be in the running. :)




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