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Guest Message by DevFuse

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DTV cabling question


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11 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   kadiir

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 03:41 PM

Hi:

When my DTV service was originally installed, the installer ran the coax through the exterior walls to where I wanted it and when I upgraded to HD they just used the same coax.

I've finally done some centralized wiring and have a couple of questions as to how it should be wired. I think I've got it but am looking for confirmation.

You can see how it is currently wired post-HD install in DTV Original.jpg. When I get home I'll double check but IIRC the dish has a SWM 3 LNB according to the DVRs.

As part of the centralized cable plant, we took the living room run and moved it to the panel & then connected it to the living room wall jack keeping all other connections the same (wall to SWM power, etc.). This is working on both DVRs.

For the first phase (see DTV Phase 1.jpg), I'm thinking of disconnecting the external coax for the Bedroom and using the new RG6 I've run (HR24 to wall to panel to living room wall to splitter) so that I can remove that coax & fill in the hole and then at my leisure to phase 2.

I understand that going through 2 splitters will degrade the bedroom's signal but I'm assuming it would only be down to the level of the living room's HR24 as it's been going through 2 splitters from Day One and works fine.

For Phase 2 (DTV Phase 2.jpg), I want to go to one splitter. I would the splittler, SWM power, and DECA to the panel and then split off the HR24 connections from there. This would require either a coupler (barrel connector) to the existing short coax going from the dish to the the outside splitter or having DTV come out and terminate the home run to the dish.

For Phase 1 & 2 pics, the splittler "port numbers" for the DVRs & DECA are arbitrary.

Have I got this right? If not, what needs to be fixed?

Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails

  • DTV Original.jpg
  • DTV Phase 1.jpg
  • DTV Phase 2.jpg

DirecTV since 11/2004

#2 OFFLINE   cabletech

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 03:50 PM

With only to H24's remove all the 8 way splitters and just use the 4 way (phase 2).

Run all cables to the one single location and do your connections there.

Barrel connecters to extend cables are not a problem, but be sure you are using the green label DTV splitters.

Much cleaner install

#3 OFFLINE   kadiir

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 04:16 PM

What 4 way? Or do you mean get one and replace the 8-way in "Phase 2" with it?
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#4 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 08:44 AM

Right, with only two receivers there is no need for the signal loss of an 8 way. even tho there is no difference if the receivers sees 41dbms or 50dbms. but in a rainy days it might make a difference
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#5 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:16 AM

Right, with only two receivers there is no need for the signal loss of an 8 way. even tho there is no difference if the receivers sees 41dbms or 50dbms. but in a rainy days it might make a difference

Looks like someone hasn't made the change from dBµV to dBm too well.

50 dBm = 100 watts
-50 dBm = 10 picowatts
A.K.A VOS

#6 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 04:17 PM

Looks like someone hasn't made the change from dBµV to dBm too well.

50 dBm = 100 watts
-50 dBm = 10 picowatts


two things

first don't know how to type the special character, second, which is tied to the first, it was (is) an example to make a point which in this case being EXACTLY precise is irrelevant. I could have said "the receivers don't care if the see 50 or 100"

Edited by peds48, 29 March 2013 - 06:48 PM.

Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#7 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 05:42 PM

first don't know how to type the special character..

I wasn't trying to pick on you, but at the same time, couldn't let the lack of a minus sign go by.
Doesn't every keyboard have a "- key" ?
A.K.A VOS

#8 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 06:50 PM

I wasn't trying to pick on you, but at the same time, couldn't let the lack of a minus sign go by.
Doesn't every keyboard have a "- key" ?


I was referring to the "u" in dbuv. again. In this case the minus sign is irrelevant.
Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#9 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 07:52 PM

I was referring to the "u" in dbuv. again. In this case the minus sign is irrelevant.


dBmV and dBµV relate to the voltage across a 75 ohm load and will always be positive.

dBm relates to 1 milliwatt, so can be both positive and negative, but in the case of DirecTV, will be negative.

1 milliwatt = 49 dBmV = 109 dBµV = 0 dBm

39 dBmV = 99 dBµV = -10 dBm
A.K.A VOS

#10 OFFLINE   JACKIEGAGA

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 03:56 PM

Can you just use a cooper wire for a ground or it has to be green coated?

I want to move my SWM but the green coated ground is not long enough.

JACK,
 
 


#11 OFFLINE   Rickt1962

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 06:51 PM

Can you just use a cooper wire for a ground or it has to be green coated?

I want to move my SWM but the green coated ground is not long enough.


No it doesnt need to be green. But it should be the same gauge or larger

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#12 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 10 April 2013 - 07:24 PM

Green is the standard for ground, but of course any copper wire of the same gauge or better will do the trick. Also note that the NEC states that the ground cannot be longer then 20 ft. Your local jurisdiction may have different codes and if so those apply
Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 




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