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SWM-8 is running Hot on New RV Install


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12 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   kniles

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 04:38 PM

Just got a New Install in my RV, HR-34 and two C31's. ( Free with a new RV Account) The SWM-8 was installed in a upper box and mounted to the backside of the cabinet with smoked glass. Then closed the SWM-8 runs HOT! Is this normal and would it help to stand the switch off the back wall about 1". I know I need more air flow but I would like to close the cabinet door without overheating the wooden cabinet.

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#2 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 04:45 PM

More airflow is the key, so I don't know how merely using standoffs is going to help.
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#3 OFFLINE   JACKIEGAGA

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 04:48 PM

More airflow is the key, so I don't know how merely using standoffs is going to help.


Vos do you know how hot they run usually?

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#4 OFFLINE   west99999

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 05:12 PM

Not sure about temp but they always feel hot to the touch, unless you are having problems I wouldn't worry about. If you start to have problems put a fan on it.

#5 OFFLINE   kniles

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 05:16 PM

When I had the Cabinet door closed then opened the door, it was to hot to hold on too for very long, 100 or above?

#6 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 05:19 PM

When I had the Cabinet door closed then opened the door, it was to hot to hold on too for very long, 100 or above?

Above 100 may be normal, but my SWM8 was "just warm" to the touch with good airflow.
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#7 OFFLINE   kniles

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 05:31 PM

I think the problem is that there is no air flow with the door closed and the switch is mounted to wood at the back of the cabinet.

Edited by kniles, 02 April 2013 - 05:52 PM.


#8 OFFLINE   veryoldschool

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 06:28 PM

I think the problem is that there is no air flow with the door closed and the switch is mounted to wood at the back of the cabinet.

I think so too.
If you could get/make a couple of slots at the top & bottom, it might get enough airflow.
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#9 OFFLINE   kniles

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 06:48 PM

I think a little fan may be the answer and if I can get air behind the switch it might help. It will be hard to find locations to drill holes in this upper cabinet to get air flow.

#10 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 07:15 PM

I think a little fan may be the answer and if I can get air behind the switch it might help. It will be hard to find locations to drill holes in this upper cabinet to get air flow.


you probably want to install the fan "backwards" so it can suck the hot air out. if you install it as a fan it is just going to re-circulate the hot air inside the cabinet
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#11 OFFLINE   west99999

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 07:23 PM

you probably want to install the fan "backwards" so it can suck the hot air out. if you install it as a fan it is just going to re-circulate the hot air inside the cabinet


+1 on that! It would help to get something in between the wood and the SWM 8. RG6 connectors with longer screw through make a good off set. Just put the RG6 connectors aligned with the screw holes and run the screws all the way through and into the wood it will create a good off set.

#12 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 02 April 2013 - 10:42 PM

+1 on that! It would help to get something in between the wood and the SWM 8. RG6 connectors with longer screw through make a good off set. Just put the RG6 connectors aligned with the screw holes and run the screws all the way through and into the wood it will create a good off set.



This is exactly what I did with my SWM-16s. Even if there isn't airflow as such behind it at least the heat it radiates out the back isn't held in by an insulating material. Everyone talked about how hot SWM-16s get and where mine are located can get pretty hot since there is a lot of other heat generating stuff nearby - two water heaters, multiple amps, various other electronic stuff - so I wanted make sure they were OK. So far they are warm but not at all uncomfortable to the touch, I'll figure something out if they start getting overly hot in the summer when that room can get rather sweltering (no AC is plumbed in, and it has an opening to the attic thanks to non-direct vent water heaters using a commercial style 'hi lo' vent) I'm thinking I'll figure out a way to use a wall wart to power a 12v PC fan and have it blow air behind the SWMs. Just need to find a wall wart to molex adapter...

I actually used standoffs for everything, not just the SWMs. Since the area I have them mounted in is rather crowded I did that to allow running all the cables to/from the SWMs underneath the splitters and SWMs to make everything appear a bit neater and help keep cables in place. Looks crappy with them running on top and not really enough room to run them around the sides. All the coax connecting to the SWM splitters, as well as all the other coax for the OTA antenna and cable TV come from above/top and I didn't want that getting tangled with the intra-SWM routing cables. Gotta use every trick you can when a bit over 100 F connections are made within a 4 sq ft area :)

#13 OFFLINE   Racer88

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Posted 03 April 2013 - 12:40 AM

I am a original SWM8 field tester and that original unit is, and has been, mounted a couple of inches below the overhang of a metal roof, in south MS, where it is hot enough to fry and egg on during the heat of summer and it's never had an issue in all those years.

They are made to withstand the heat they are subjected to in other words. I wouldn't worry one second about it...




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