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HD setup


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17 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Jmattnc80

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:37 PM

Hey guys, newbie here on the forums and hoping you guys can help me out.

I am planning on installing HD service at my lake house. I have put in several DTV setup a but never an HD set up. This will be strictly HD with no DVR.

Here are the questions I have:

What dish do I need? Not sure of box type I don't have it yet.

The run is 100' or so from dish to receiver, will RG6 suffice?

How many lines doin need to run from dish to receiver?(Only running one receiver, again, no DVR, just HD)

If I missed anything that I may need please add that as well.

I appreciate the help in advance.

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#2 OFFLINE   longrider

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:12 PM

You will need either a SL3 or SL5, the difference is if your locals are on 119 plus if you subscribe to any of the foreign language packages you will need the SL5.  1 wire is all you need for a single non-DVR receiver.  RG6 is sufficient for a 100' run  If you get a SWM dish a power inserter will be needed but if you never plan on expanding that is not necessary.


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#3 ONLINE   texasbrit

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 06:39 AM

Should be RG6 solid copper core (SCC) not copper-clad steel core (CCS).



#4 OFFLINE   Jmattnc80

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 08:04 AM

OK lonerider, thanks for the help.

Question, just found out it is actually 225' not 100'. Do I need to step up to RG11? What are your recommendations then?

#5 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 08:20 AM

225 feet is a bit on the long side, but using solid copper core it should still work.



#6 OFFLINE   HoTat2

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 10:12 AM

225 feet is a bit on the long side, but using solid copper core it should still work.

Possibly, though I would certainly recommend the TS use a line amplifier for that distance;

 

Like maybe here for SWiM; http://www.satpro.tv...raLA141R-T.aspx

 

Or here for non-SWiM (legacy); http://www.satpro.tv...ralal20a-t.aspx


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#7 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:03 PM

The primary issue with longer coax runs is not signal strength, but rather DC voltage drop between the receiver or power inserter, and the LNB assembly.  Solid copper core carries current much better than does copper clad steel. Either tends to carry higher rf (sat signals) about the same, as those signals are carried on the surface of the center conductor as opposed to throughout it (called skin effect).

 

A line amp generally is for boosting rf signal levels, and should be placed as close as possible to the signal source (at the dish end of the run), where the signal level will be the highest.

 

New RG6 with solid copper center, combined with good compression connectors and as few joints/junctions as possible, should be good for 225 feet.  If you have any way to put the power inserter closer to the dish, then you can easily overcome the longer distance. I would not spend money on a line amp unless/until you prove you have a need for one. Not to say that might not turn out to be the case, but I'd try without it first.



#8 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 04:14 PM

Very important, don't forget to pass the cable trough a ground block which in turn gets bonded to your house electric  ground 


Edited by peds48, 25 May 2013 - 04:15 PM.

Here’s to the crazy ones.
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#9 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:23 AM

Very important, don't forget to pass the cable trough a ground block which in turn gets bonded to your house electric  ground 

Absolutely. "fewest joints/junctions" does not imply not doing it correctly. Thanks for clarifying that.



#10 OFFLINE   Jmattnc80

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Posted 26 May 2013 - 08:50 PM

Planning on doing one line....dish direct to receiver. No need for multiple boxes as we somehow have cable here. Gonna stick with cable in all other rooms just want HD in my living room.

Question about the ground: The cable line is grounded right at the house, can I just loop it in with that ground?

Thanks for all the input guys!!!

Hope everyone is enjoying their holiday weekend!

Thanks to all you current or former troops who may be reading this!!! I appreciate my freedom and your service.

#11 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 27 May 2013 - 03:46 PM

what do you mean by "loop it"?  each provider should have their own connection to the ground source 


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


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#12 OFFLINE   Jmattnc80

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:18 PM

what do you mean by "loop it"?  each provider should have their own connection to the ground source 

 

 

Actually could use a little more advice on the grounding.

 

With the satellite being over 200' from the house, whats the best way to ground it?  I plan on running the coax through a cable block at the house and grounding that, but shouldn't I ground the satellite as well?  


Edited by Jmattnc80, 28 May 2013 - 07:40 PM.


#13 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 07:39 PM

Just ground it in with the cable TV line.....so I guess with your "have their own connection", I can't do it.

Exactly.


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#14 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 08:46 AM



Actually could use a little more advice on the grounding.

 

With the satellite being over 200' from the house, whats the best way to ground it?  I plan on running the coax through a cable block at the house and grounding that, but shouldn't I ground the satellite as well?  

 

 

For outdoors techs use Flooded SCC with a 17AWG ground wire bonded to the shield.

 

At the dish end you strip the ground wire out and attach it to your galvanized pole with a galvanized ground strap.

 

At the house end you attach it to the ground block. The ground block is bonded to the house ground with a number 10 copper ground wire.

 

 

 

 

IMAG0025.jpg IMAG0028.jpg


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#15 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 04:20 PM

For outdoors techs use Flooded SCC with a 17AWG ground wire bonded to the shield.

 

Actually, the 17AWG is attached to the PVC jacket of the RG6 cable


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#16 OFFLINE   Jmattnc80

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 05:46 PM

SAMRS!!!   You rock....that's what I had in mind doing but wasn't 100%......PICS helped as well.   PEDS:  Thanks for all your help as well........Thanks a ton.....looking forward to having my HD for thunderstormy afternoons at the lake!!!!!



#17 OFFLINE   samrs

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 07:20 PM

SAMRS!!!   You rock....that's what I had in mind doing but wasn't 100%......PICS helped as well.   PEDS:  Thanks for all your help as well........Thanks a ton.....looking forward to having my HD for thunderstormy afternoons at the lake!!!!!

 

Your welcome, allthough nothing I posted will protect you from a direcet lightning strike on a chicken house half a mile down the road.

 

I wouldnt do 225 feet for a customer. I would do it for myself with a SWM LNB and a 29volt  power inserter.


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#18 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 07:24 PM

Right, many folks are under the impression that grounding is for electronics protection, while it helps, grounded is for human safety.


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 




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