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What would I need to change to SWiM


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30 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 03:58 PM

I currently have the AU9-S Dish with a 4 cable out 5-LNB (installed back in 2008).  The four cables go into a Zinwell 6x8 (I think).  I used to have  four DVR's, now I am down to the two, (1 HR22 and 1 HR21).  HR21 is starting to act up, and when it goes, I want to replace it with the HR44.

 

So, correct me if I am wrong or point me to a diagram.  But, I would need a replacement SWiM compatible 5-LNB (with one cable out).  Connecting to the one out would be a SWS-8 splitter (if I go ahead with the HR44), or just a SWS-4 if I use the two HR2x series.  Each receiver would get one cable out of that splitter, (BBCs would be removed), and the splitter would receive a power inserter to the red port. 

Now my current switch is mounted in the attic.  Is that where I would mount the splitter, and could I use one of my original rg6 cables from my Living Room receiver to provide power to the splitter?  Or should the power run be less than the ~25 Foot of one of those cables?  Also, does the splitter need to be grounded?  

 

This is what I was looking at purchasing, is that all I would need?  

http://www.solidsign...CTV Dishes&sku=    

 

Thanks for clarifying.  The SWiM tech still has me in a little bit of confusion. 



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#2 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 04:06 PM

And right after posting this I came across the diagram from SS (linked).  So, it looks like what I said is correct.  Just questions on where I should mount the splitter and power inserter, and whether the splitter needs to be grounded. 

 

http://manuals.solid... Install LR.pdf


Edited by VABlitz, 13 June 2013 - 04:06 PM.


#3 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 04:34 PM

First off, you only need a 4-way splitter. The splitter count is for coax feeds, not tuners. One coax feed supports single tuner receivers, dual tuner DVRs, and 5 tuner Genies. So if you have one Genie and two DVRs, you would only need 3 coax connections available on your splitter.

 

You should run the single coax from the dish through a grounded ground-block just before it enters your house. You can put the splitter pretty much any place that is convenient after that, and it does not have to be grounded. The power inserter is usually most easily placed at one of the tv locations, just make sure you connect it to the power passing port on the splitter.



#4 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 04:36 PM

The coax cable and dish must must be grounded (preferably) before entering your home. You can use a single ground block to accomplish this. from the ground block you can then run a coax cable to the splitter in the attic. you can use one of the two cables feeding the DVR to install the PI there


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#5 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 05:09 PM

Yes forgot to mention dish and currently all four cables entering the house are grounded on a ground block.  So, all that seems a lot simpler to me than I thought it was.  I will also have to double-check if the power inserter cable I was going to use is SCC. 

 

One more question, when replacing the LNB, will I need to retune the dish...or as long as I don't shake the dish to hard while installing it should all my alignments still be set?


Edited by VABlitz, 13 June 2013 - 05:11 PM.


#6 OFFLINE   LiQiCE

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 05:52 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong - but if you already have the 4 cables coming out of the dish - can't you just get a SWM-8 multiswitch to replace the Zinwell 6x8 and then use SWM?

 

VABlitz - this would save you from having to mess with the LNB at all and risk messing up the alignment of your dish.

 

I know for a professional install, installers prefer the SWM LNB since only 1 cable needs to come out of the dish to the house, but in this case you already have the 4 outputs from the AU9-S w/5LNB coming into the house.

 

You can also get the SWM-16 multiswitch instead to run up to 16 tuners.

 

SWM-8: http://www.solidsign...tiswitches&sku=

 

SWM-16: http://www.solidsign...annel)-(swm-16)

 

I used Solid Signal - but you can probably find the multiswitches cheaper on Amazon or eBay.


Edited by LiQiCE, 13 June 2013 - 05:54 PM.

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#7 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 13 June 2013 - 06:32 PM

While the TS can indeed use a SWM8 or SWM16 switch, from a cost perspective a SWM LNB would seem more logical since the LNB tend to be cheaper.


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#8 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:02 AM

Correct me if I'm wrong - but if you already have the 4 cables coming out of the dish - can't you just get a SWM-8 multiswitch to replace the Zinwell 6x8 and then use SWM?

 

VABlitz - this would save you from having to mess with the LNB at all and risk messing up the alignment of your dish.

 

I know for a professional install, installers prefer the SWM LNB since only 1 cable needs to come out of the dish to the house, but in this case you already have the 4 outputs from the AU9-S w/5LNB coming into the house.

 

You can also get the SWM-16 multiswitch instead to run up to 16 tuners.

 

SWM-8: http://www.solidsign...tiswitches&sku=

 

SWM-16: http://www.solidsign...annel)-(swm-16)

 

I used Solid Signal - but you can probably find the multiswitches cheaper on Amazon or eBay.

 

I also wouldn't mind simplifying the installation with the new LNB.  I am pretty sure I can replace it without jarring the alignment.  I just wondered if it would throw off my alignment because I lent my father my meter and he lives in another state. 



#9 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 09:13 AM

If you are careful to not move the dish itself when you change the LNB, you should be okay. I have changed LNB's several times without having to realign the dish.  I would as a minimum though, use a soft pencil or a sharpie and mark all of the mating points where dish alignment could change (azimuth, elevation, tilt), so if you do accidentally move the dish you can get back close enough to be able to fine tune using a receiver.



#10 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 14 June 2013 - 10:44 AM

My only concern when folks are changing LNBs is not that the dish itself is moved, but rather jerking the dish LNB arm trying to get the LNB out (specially on older dishes where the LNB seems to get stuck) and damaging it

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#11 OFFLINE   Bill Broderick

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 12:13 PM

While the TS can indeed use a SWM8 or SWM16 switch, from a cost perspective a SWM LNB would seem more logical since the LNB tend to be cheaper.

 

Not by a significant amount.  Right now, you can get a new SWM-3 LNB on ebay for $25 (free shipping) and a new SWM-8 (with power inserter and free shipping) costs $26.  I'd much rather spend an extra buck and just swap out my switch, rather than having to make changes to my dish.



#12 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 06:14 PM

Not by a significant amount. Right now, you can get a new SWM-3 LNB on ebay for $25 (free shipping) and a new SWM-8 (with power inserter and free shipping) costs $26. I'd much rather spend an extra buck and just swap out my switch, rather than having to make changes to my dish.


That might be the exception and not the rule. You wont find those deals everyday

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#13 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 07:30 PM

Not by a significant amount.  Right now, you can get a new SWM-3 LNB on ebay for $25 (free shipping) and a new SWM-8 (with power inserter and free shipping) costs $26.  I'd much rather spend an extra buck and just swap out my switch, rather than having to make changes to my dish.

 

That might be the exception and not the rule. You wont find those deals everyday

 

Someone on Amazon with fulfillment by Amazon is also selling the SWM-3-LNB for $27.  Unfortunately my locals are on the 119.  So, I need the 5LNB



#14 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 07:56 PM

Someone on Amazon with fulfillment by Amazon is also selling the SWM-3-LNB for $27. Unfortunately my locals are on the 119. So, I need the 5LNB


Don't see how this relates to my question. The LNB is $27, how about the switch?

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#15 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 09:08 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong - but if you already have the 4 cables coming out of the dish - can't you just get a SWM-8 multiswitch to replace the Zinwell 6x8 and then use SWM?

 

VABlitz - this would save you from having to mess with the LNB at all and risk messing up the alignment of your dish.

 

I know for a professional install, installers prefer the SWM LNB since only 1 cable needs to come out of the dish to the house, but in this case you already have the 4 outputs from the AU9-S w/5LNB coming into the house.

 

You can also get the SWM-16 multiswitch instead to run up to 16 tuners.

 

SWM-8: http://www.solidsign...tiswitches&sku=

 

SWM-16: http://www.solidsign...annel)-(swm-16)

 

I used Solid Signal - but you can probably find the multiswitches cheaper on Amazon or eBay.

 

I am reconsidering your idea for the SWM8 or SWM16.  I wanted to have 1 HR44, 2 HR22, 1 GenieGo with either an additional H21 or an HR21 (or even both the H21 & HR21).  I aready have all the receivers, except for the HR44 and GenieGo, and currently running the 5LNB with four out to the Zinwell WB68.  I've looked over several wiring diagrams here and there and they all seem to suggest that I would need the SWM16 for this install.  Is that correct?  I count 11 tuners with the H21 only, 12 tuners with only the extra HR21, and 13 if I use both additionall receivers.  So, according to that it would suggest I need the 16 with just the HR44 and two HR22 (9 tuners...SWM8 only 8 tuners?). 

Here's a link to one of the diagrams I was looking at http://www.weaknees....nie_3_HR24s.pdf

This also suggests I would need a CCK, doesn't the HR44 have built in wifi/ethernet, that would only be needed for the 34 and a 44 doesn't need that, correct?

I've been trying to find some diagrams on this site, but most of them seem to be for a larger install than I am looking at, if anyone has a closer diagram to my prefered setup please post a link.  

 

Thanks for all the help.  That additional HR21's hard drive just failed...so time to purchase an HR44 and get on the SWM with Deca (currently running HR's in unsupported WH config) 



#16 OFFLINE   carl6

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 09:48 PM

1. Yes, anything over 8 tuners needs an SWM16.

2. Yes, HR44 can connect to internet for you and not need CCK.



#17 OFFLINE   inkahauts

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 09:52 PM

The HR34 has Ethernet connection for a bridge to your network but only the hr44 also has wifi. You won't need an DIRECTV Wired Broadband Internet Connection Kit if your getting a hr44 so no need to worry about that at all.

Yes you need a swim16 with what you want to run. Unless you want to use genie clients for some locations. Just make sure you don't Connect more than 8 tuners per output on the swim 16 and you will be good!

#18 OFFLINE   VABlitz

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 11:52 AM

Is the HR44 much noiser than the HR21?  I know that's an odd question, but I have a ethernet drop in my bedroom, so placing the HR44 there would be preferable to the living room with no drop.  Then I can move the HR22 from my bedroom to the living room and still access the programs from the HR44.  I know the HR44 has wifi, but would rather have a direct cable connection.     



#19 OFFLINE   inkahauts

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 02:36 PM

You will want the hr44 where every you watch the most TV, and work around that. Trust me on this' especially against a. HR21. Its not even a fair fight between the two. Sound wise I honestly can't say one is quieter than the other.

#20 OFFLINE   inkahauts

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 02:36 PM

You know, I'd maneuver things around and put a genie client in your bedroom if our after quiet. Or the h21.




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