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Motorhome - Winegard Trav'Ler SWM3


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#1 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:27 PM

Well I was able to do some smart internet online shopping and stretch my "Blood Money" Stash Account and ordered a Winegard Trav'Ler SWM3 (SlimLine SWM) automatic open array antenna for the motorhome.  My Safari MH has RG6 Coax that originates in the front entertainment cabinet, somewhere splits via a splitter with one path going to a basement coax cable outlet, and the second path going to the rear bedroom TV cabinet.  I would like to replace both coax cable runs with HDMI cable runs.  I have two 40 foot runs of HDMI & a HDMI Splitter, and have tested the setup laying the HDMI cables loosely in the hallway.  Works great.  Now the hard part, FINDING the pathways of the old RG6 cables/runs through cabinets and wherever the Coax runs, and re-running the new HDMI cables.  I have heard that you can buy a tool called a Tone generator.  You hook up the beginning of the RG6 coax to it and then with the "Probe Half", you poke around and if you are close to the cable run it emits a tone, ergo the cable pathway.  Got any good tips/techiques/tools, etc.????  Or should I just bite the budget bullet and go have it done at Camping World in Wilsonville Oregon?

 

If anybody familar with these tone generators, what make/model do you recommend??? Any techniques should I pay attention to???

 

 


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


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#2 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:33 PM

while tone generators works OK on coax they usually stop the tone from emitting outside the cable and thus not good for what you seek.  if you put the probe and the end of the coax you will hear the tone otherwise you are dead in the water.  Best to let camping world do it.


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#3 OFFLINE   PokerJoker

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 03:19 PM

Be a lot easier to just use your existing coax, hooked to your new SWM system, with a couple of H25s for the bedroom and the basement.  I know, the splitter is not a green label, but there's a pretty good chance that it will work, or maybe you could replace it.  Also, using separate receivers means you can watch different programming at each TV.

 

Even better, use a Genie for the main receiver and C31 or C41s for the other TVs.  All the benefits of the above, plus you get DVR functionality everywhere.  This is the factory setup in many high end luxury coaches these days.

 

Keith

 



#4 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 04:00 PM

The problem with the "built in" splitter is that a)will not let power pass through or B) will pass power on both ports which is not good for receivers not design for this type of voltage.  the fix of course will be to place the PI BEFORE the splitter which means outside the camper


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


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#5 OFFLINE   PokerJoker

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 02:39 AM

The problem with the "built in" splitter is that a)will not let power pass through or B) will pass power on both ports which is not good for receivers not design for this type of voltage.  the fix of course will be to place the PI BEFORE the splitter which means outside the camper

Read again. This isn't a camper and he's not using an outside dish, he's using a rooftop auto-aiming Winegard dish.  The PI for this is most likely inside the RV's front wiring bay, probably right next to the SWM8.



#6 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 03:19 AM

Read again. This isn't a camper and he's not using an outside dish, he's using a rooftop auto-aiming Winegard dish.  The PI for this is most likely inside the RV's front wiring bay, probably right next to the SWM8.

read again, the TS has a SWM3 dish  !rolling


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#7 OFFLINE   BobStokesbary

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 09:34 AM

JohnQ,

 

No, the "toner" will not accomplish the task you are trying to do. As noted, it is an audible tone device used to identify twisted pairs for phone and internet connections. It does not emit a frequency that can be picked up by an external/distant (not connected) listening device.

 

As for your tracing your existing wiring, lots of luck. I have tried to follow the wiring on our 03 Beaver Patriot and cannot find the coax that goes from the overhead location to either the bedroom connection or the hookup connection in our water compartment. I have gone so far as to trace them across the front and down the trim piece on the left-hand side of the windshield. From there they must run along one of the chassis rails since I too have an outlet in my lower bay. I suspect this is the route anyone at Camping World would follow to install a HDMI cable per your request. And, after having removed the trim piece myself I can tell you that you have to remove the wood piece that hold the windshield visor to have room to remove that part. I only mention this because at the typical rates of $110 per hour this can really add up fast.

 

It would be helpful to know what kind of receiver you have in the bedroom. Since you have already run an HDMI cable to it, it sounds like you already have a flat screen TV there. If so, your wiring is probably good enough to support the suggestion by PokerJoker of sticking a H25 back there behind the TV and use RF on the remote. This would be far simpler than trying to run a HDMI wire. I would imagine that the HDMI wiring would be 6 to 8 hours to run it from the front TV area to your bedroom. You will just need to add another splitter between your frontroom receiver and the coax that goes to the bedroom TV.

 

Bob



#8 OFFLINE   HoTat2

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:35 AM

Pardon my ignorance of MHs here;

 

But I'm trying to follow this thread, and a bit confused.

 

Earlier the TS referred to a "basement" in a MH?  :confused:

 

I can understand how "rear bedroom" applies to a MH, but a basement?


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#9 OFFLINE   PokerJoker

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:39 AM

read again, the TS has a SWM3 dish  !rolling

OK, my bad, that antenna does have a SWM LNB.  I had thought that it just added a SWM8 to their regular roof dish.

 

Still, in no case would the PI ever be installed outside.



#10 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:53 AM

JohnQ,

 

No, the "toner" will not accomplish the task you are trying to do. As noted, it is an audible tone device used to identify twisted pairs for phone and internet connections. It does not emit a frequency that can be picked up by an external/distant (not connected) listening device.

 

As for your tracing your existing wiring, lots of luck. I have tried to follow the wiring on our 03 Beaver Patriot and cannot find the coax that goes from the overhead location to either the bedroom connection or the hookup connection in our water compartment. I have gone so far as to trace them across the front and down the trim piece on the left-hand side of the windshield. From there they must run along one of the chassis rails since I too have an outlet in my lower bay. I suspect this is the route anyone at Camping World would follow to install a HDMI cable per your request. And, after having removed the trim piece myself I can tell you that you have to remove the wood piece that hold the windshield visor to have room to remove that part. I only mention this because at the typical rates of $110 per hour this can really add up fast.

 

It would be helpful to know what kind of receiver you have in the bedroom. Since you have already run an HDMI cable to it, it sounds like you already have a flat screen TV there. If so, your wiring is probably good enough to support the suggestion by PokerJoker of sticking a H25 back there behind the TV and use RF on the remote. This would be far simpler than trying to run a HDMI wire. I would imagine that the HDMI wiring would be 6 to 8 hours to run it from the front TV area to your bedroom. You will just need to add another splitter between your frontroom receiver and the coax that goes to the bedroom TV.

 

Bob

Our coach's sound similar.  You are right on already upgrading the TV's to flat screens.  On the new HDMI runs, I only "Tested" the HDMI's by loosely laying them out in the aisle way as a means og testing signal strength & quality for that distance (40 feet).  No problems on Strength & Quality for 40 feet HDMI cable.

 

The new Winegard SKM SWM3 is an open array, self aiming true SWM antenna that is installed on the roof.  And based upon some of the discussions here, I come up with another idea that uses the existing RG6 cabling that routes to the Bedroom and Basement/Service bay.  I already know that cabling "works."  As I understand from 2 different Safari Yahoo websites, the RG6 Cabling starts in the entertainment cabinet and splits behind one one the cabinet walls.  If that is true, then the solution would be to disconnect both RG6 cables from the splitter, connects them up to the SWM Switch and relocate the receivers (D-12-100 to the basement & a H25 behind the Bedroom TV) as someone above suggested.  I also have an HR20 DVR for the main upfront TV (last model to have an external OTA Coax connector - RV Parks cable systems and my Batwing/Jack antenna connectors).

 

So I'm off to to the motorhome searching for a splitter and hoping it is in fact hiding behind a cabinet up front.  Just in case it is up front, I'm thinking that I may have to "Extend" the length a couple of feet each to reach the SWM Switch.  Could I use a Barrel connector and a 2 - 3 feet long second RG6 cable as a means of extending the reach???


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


#11 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:58 AM

Pardon my ignorance of MHs here;

 

But I'm trying to follow this thread, and a bit confused.

 

Earlier the TS referred to a "basement" in a MH?  :confused:

 

I can understand how "rear bedroom" applies to a MH, but a basement?

Lower Service Bays in a motorhome for storing way too much junk, annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd sitting outside under an awning sitting in lawn chairs with one of those service bay doors open to a 3rd TV until the mosquitos drive you back inside.

 

For specs on my new Winegard Trav'Ler, here's a link - http://www.tvformyrv...-model-sk-swm3/  


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


#12 OFFLINE   HoTat2

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 11:57 AM

Lower Service Bays in a motorhome for storing way too much junk, annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd sitting outside under an awning sitting in lawn chairs with one of those service bay doors open to a 3rd TV until the mosquitos drive you back inside.

 

For specs on my new Winegard Trav'Ler, here's a link - http://www.tvformyrv...-model-sk-swm3/  

Ah, I see;

 

Its actually a lower storage bay;

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------

 

NOTE: The statement on the Winegard web page of;  

 

"(DirecTV no longer is using transponders on SAT 110 and 119)"

 

Is not true of course, and should be changed to perhaps, "Most all English programming does not use 110 and 119" or some other similar.  


Edited by HoTat2, 19 August 2013 - 11:59 AM.

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#13 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:49 AM

JohnQ,

 

No, the "toner" will not accomplish the task you are trying to do. As noted, it is an audible tone device used to identify twisted pairs for phone and internet connections. It does not emit a frequency that can be picked up by an external/distant (not connected) listening device.

 

 

I have to disagree here.  a "fox and haunt" emitted tone can be easily be picked up by the probe when using phone or Ethernet cabling. however because of the thickness and shield of coax, this tone remains "trap" inside the coax 


Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 

#14 OFFLINE   VDP07

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:34 AM

Locating and and modifying the factory splitter/cable connections in the OP's RV should not be difficult. I've never encountered an RV where the factory installed splitters were not accessable. Doesn't solve the HDMI routing question but it likely could be made SWM compatible.



#15 OFFLINE   norwestie

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:42 PM

You were on the wrong side of I-5. Fry's Electronics is where the cable toner is available. I bought mine there and used it to trace the park coax input to the front of my Monaco Dynasty. I dumped the media switcher and lost track of which coax went where.

My setup is a Winegard SK3005 (predecessor to the one you have), one DTV DVR in the front and another in the bedroom, along with Blu-ray players in each location. This is so much better than fighting over who chooses what to watch.

Other posters are correct; the splitter won't pass the differing voltages between the dish and the receivers. I used the original coax just for OTA and park cable. My new coax run for the bedroom DVR travels along the roof and enters above the cabinet where the DVR is located. My plans for outside TV is to run HDMI from the front DVR to the basement and set the remote to RF.

IMG_2038.jpg


Edited by norwestie, 20 August 2013 - 08:50 PM.





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