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RG6 in a Motorhome


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10 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 11:27 AM

I am in the process of upgrading my Motorhome to HD.  It involves replacing a King-Dome Antenna with a Winegard open array SKM3 (single wire multiswitch).  The multiswitch will be mounted in the front entertainment cabinet with a short 2 - 3 foot run to an HR20 sitting behind the front TV.  The problem is the original wiring in the motorhome.  The RG6 Cabling to feed the bedroom TV (plan to setup a H25) and the outside basement TV (HR24-500) is accomplished using a splitter somewhere behind the front entertainment cabinet.  I would like to run an idea by the forum here to see if it will work.  I strongly suspect that the 2 RG6 Cabling runs from the splitter back to the bedroom & basement is not long enough to connect to the multiswitch.  What I think will work is adding a barrel connector to each run then adding a 4 - 6 foot RG6 cable at the barrel connector thereby lengthening each RG6 Cable run and connecting to the multiswitch.

 

Doable???  Other ideas???


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


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#2 OFFLINE   The Merg

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 11:30 AM

Don't see why it wouldn't work. Your runs are still fairly short.

 

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Today's problems don't worry me, I haven't solved yesterday's yet.

SlimLine-3 Dish w/ SWM16 (HD Service / WHDVR) / Full Setup
HR34-700 / Panasonic TC-P50G25 HDTV / HDMI / Networked - DECA / Family Room
HR44-700 / Samsung HCM5525W HDTV / Component / Networked - DECA / Bedroom

HR24-100 / Samsung HCM5525W HDTV / Component / Networked - DECA / Bedroom


#3 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 12:58 PM

Obviously length won't be a problem in a motor home, presumably he's worried about the barrel connector. You'll be fine with those. Anyone who uses a wall plate to connect their coax is using a barrel connector, and sometimes will use one on the other end if they've got a coax keystone panel or similar to manage their wiring.

 

While they add a bit of signal loss, the loss is tiny. You could probably build a 100 foot cable out of 50 2 foot sections with barrels between them and be just fine - but man would it be hard to troubleshoot if something went wrong with it! ;)


SL5, PI-6S, SA-6AL 3xSWM16, 21 H20-100, 1 H20-600, 7 H24-700/AM21


#4 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 09:17 AM

THX!!


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


#5 OFFLINE   BobStokesbary

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 02:34 PM

Did you find the splitter? And if so, where was it? I suspect mine is in a similar location and it would be nice to know where it is.

 

And I am a bit confused by this post and your other one. From your other thread I thought you bought the SWM version of the Winegard sat. (Or did you get the non-SWM version and are putting a SWM-8 next to the sat dish?)  Either way you should only have  1 coax from the dish to your PI/distribution point. If your rig is anything like mine, everthing in the overhead cabinets opens out in the back to the fiberglass shell. You will have plenty of room back there to "hide" your PI and the existing cable length should be fine. The only issue I see is that the shell can get pretty hot on a hot day and I am not sure how much temperature the PI can take. I have had mine up there when the outside temp was 103 and it seemed to do OK. But, you need to be aware of the risk. You will also need a 2-way splitter up there to send a signal back to your bedroom/basement.



#6 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 07:28 PM

 

 

While they add a bit of signal loss, the loss is tiny. You could probably build a 100 foot cable out of 50 2 foot sections with barrels between them and be just fine - but man would it be hard to troubleshoot if something went wrong with it! ;)

 That is about 80db of loss!!!


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#7 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 08 September 2013 - 10:07 PM

I was under the impression that a barrel connector (a quality one) added only about 0.1 - 0.2 db of loss. Is that not correct?


SL5, PI-6S, SA-6AL 3xSWM16, 21 H20-100, 1 H20-600, 7 H24-700/AM21


#8 OFFLINE   JohnQ

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 10:49 AM

Did you find the splitter? And if so, where was it? I suspect mine is in a similar location and it would be nice to know where it is.

 

And I am a bit confused by this post and your other one. From your other thread I thought you bought the SWM version of the Winegard sat. (Or did you get the non-SWM version and are putting a SWM-8 next to the sat dish?)  Either way you should only have  1 coax from the dish to your PI/distribution point. If your rig is anything like mine, everthing in the overhead cabinets opens out in the back to the fiberglass shell. You will have plenty of room back there to "hide" your PI and the existing cable length should be fine. The only issue I see is that the shell can get pretty hot on a hot day and I am not sure how much temperature the PI can take. I have had mine up there when the outside temp was 103 and it seemed to do OK. But, you need to be aware of the risk. You will also need a 2-way splitter up there to send a signal back to your bedroom/basement.

Haven't found it yet.  And yes it is the SlimLine3, the latest DTV version of SWM.  The main reason to eliminate the splitter is to be able to feed 3 seperate Sat Receivers (Front, Bedroom & Basement).  Also, it is my understanding that SWM does not get along well with splitters unless they are "Green" and since my Motorhome Splitter is original equipment, it is safe to assume it is NOT "Green."  I posed this question on 3 Safari Websites, and the consensus is that the splitter is behind the entertainment cabinet in the front cap.  In all likelyhood in making the "Split" run into 2 seperate/independent runs, I'll need to lengthen each by means of a barrel connector and a 3 - 4 foot length of RG6 to reach the 4 port multiswitch.  Right now I have 2 RG6 cables coming into the coach due to the King-Dome 9702 (and a 9702 control cable for 3 total).  I will be using one of those RG6's into the SWM, i.e., Winegard's Setup Number 1 example - The PI inside & a single RG6 coming inside and then distributed to 3 receivers via the SWM.


Owned DTV in Motorhome - HR20-700, HR20-100, H25-700 with a Winegard SlimLine 3 Trav'ler (SWM) Antenna
Owned DTV in the Sticks & Bricks - H25-700, HR24-100, & HR24-500
Lease D-12-100

 


#9 OFFLINE   slice1900

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 12:15 PM

I've seen a generic 900 MHz rated splitter working perfectly for splitting satellite signals, so while you certainly want to replace that splitter if you can find it, you might just try connecting through it and see if it works anyway. Just because a splitter is rated for a certain frequency range doesn't mean it won't work beyond it, just that it wasn't a design criteria for it so they might take shortcuts that would degrade the signal outside of the specified range. It is just luck of the draw. Hopefully with the splitter installed semi-permanently in the RV, while they're unlikely to use one rated for satellite use, they'd at least use a higher quality one that costs a couple bucks more, which should improve your odds.

 

Adding another two way green label splitter behind one leg of a generic splitter certainly wouldn't be ideal, but if you're lucky and it works without signal problems, maybe that's better than tearing your RV to pieces looking for it until you've tried it and established it must be replaced.

 

If you try it, you'll need to install the PI somewhere between it and the dish, as that splitter would almost certainly not pass power so the PI couldn't be on the other side of it from the dish.


SL5, PI-6S, SA-6AL 3xSWM16, 21 H20-100, 1 H20-600, 7 H24-700/AM21


#10 OFFLINE   BobStokesbary

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 02:16 PM

Haven't found it yet.  And yes it is the SlimLine3, the latest DTV version of SWM.  The main reason to eliminate the splitter is to be able to feed 3 seperate Sat Receivers (Front, Bedroom & Basement).  Also, it is my understanding that SWM does not get along well with splitters unless they are "Green" and since my Motorhome Splitter is original equipment, it is safe to assume it is NOT "Green."  I posed this question on 3 Safari Websites, and the consensus is that the splitter is behind the entertainment cabinet in the front cap.

Interesting. I will have to check to see if I can locate my splitter the next time we get to the RV. But, I am with slice1900. I think you might find your SWM works OK with the old splitter. To my memory, the Green Label seems to be more attached to MRV than SWM. My SWM LNB, for example, is not green label and works just fine. But, I haven't tried MRV in the RV yet either. (I just feed the back TV with RF from the front room receiver. I have a separate modulator in the front cabinet.) You may hit issues if you want MRV capability too.



#11 OFFLINE   peds48

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Posted 09 September 2013 - 03:56 PM

I was under the impression that a barrel connector (a quality one) added only about 0.1 - 0.2 db of loss. Is that not correct?

more like 0.5db


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Here’s to the crazy ones.
The misfits. The rebels.
The the troublemakers.
The round pegs in the square holes.

The ones who see things different.
They’re not fond of rules, and they have no respect for the status quo.


Think Differently 




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