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Guest Message by DevFuse

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USB charging cable


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38 replies to this topic

#26 OFFLINE   AntAltMike

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 01:58 AM

If the plug pin is always positive, all you need is resistors.  Diodes will result in a forward drop of half a volt, which may severely screw up the charging efficiency.

 

I can't find the youtube instructional video I looked at before authoring my Post #24 in this thread, but in addition to its "producer" (surely, also its "director" and on-air "talent") using a breadboard for the junction, it did mention that the data wires on the load side need to be shorted, so that the phone will sense that it is connected to a dedicated charger and attempt to draw more current.

 

I remember when dedicated, switching power supplies first became readily available in the early 1980s, and we had a bunch of 3 amp ones but our bootleg Zaxxon circuit boards drew closer to 5 amps, we tried just tying the two 5 volt outputs together, but the problem was, the output voltage sensing could detect in inaccuracy if even a few hundredths of a volt, and so the one that saw its voltage as being too high would attempt to lower its output voltage, which made the other try to increase iits voltage, and in no time, one of them would heat up like a toaster before tripping its overcurrent circuit if it had one, or blowing its fuse.

 

I bought a few of the ultra-cheap 110 volt AV plug-to-cigarette-lighter socket on eBay for a dollar or so each, but was disappointed to see that they only source .500 amps and then shut down.  I would expect the circuitry in a similar, Hong Kong "free shipping-if-you-don't care-when-you-get-it"  110v to USB adapters use the same regulator, but from what I have read, any old USB port is capable of outputting 1 amp, so the simple, single jack.plug with the shorted data pins ON THE LOAD END does enable the load device to draw close to one amp, thereby cutting its charge time in half.

 

FWIW, I didn't find any premium charging cables touting higher gauge wire, whereas premium, long HDMI cables to use larger wire for its current sourcing circuit.


Edited by AntAltMike, 19 February 2014 - 07:33 AM.


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#27 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 12:36 PM

what I could say ... use Shottky diodes and do refresh your knowledge about electric circuits ... "resistors" ... hehe



#28 OFFLINE   AntAltMike

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 02:12 PM

You only need a tenth of an ohm or two or series resistance to make sure that the parallel regulated supplies don't "buck" each other.

 

If someone wants to make a science fair project out of this, there is a way to arrange four transistors to form the equivalent of a bridge rectification circuit and only drop 2/10 of a volt.  We used to have to do that when trying to extend the range of twisted pair telephone circuitry.



#29 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 02:37 PM

I would definitely NOT recommend the approach with resistors !

 

You are must be responsible for results of someone who will burn his equipment. ::(



#30 OFFLINE   kevinturcotte

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 11:56 AM

I ordered a micro USB 3.0, but that isn't working. Connection is way too big for the phone

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#31 ONLINE   sigma1914

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 11:59 AM

I ordered a micro USB 3.0, but that isn't working. Connection is way too big for the phone

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Did you buy a mini instead of micro?

 

mini-micro-usb-connector.gif


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#32 OFFLINE   kevinturcotte

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 12:42 PM

I ordered micro but apparently micro USB 3.0 connections have a larger/differ connector

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#33 OFFLINE   RasputinAXP

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 01:06 PM

It's a 2.0 connector with a wing.

 

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#34 OFFLINE   kevinturcotte

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 01:07 PM

Yeah, that's it. Won't connect to a 2.0 connection

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#35 OFFLINE   P Smith

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 05:30 PM

It's a 2.0 connector with a wing.

 

Screen-shot-2013-09-05-at-12.24.33-PM.pn

it's USB 3.0 connector



#36 OFFLINE   Mark Holtz

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 08:10 PM

Samsung phones tend to use microUSB 2.0 connectors. May I suggest Monoprice item 10240 for the charger and 8641 (or similar) for the cable? Or, as an alternative, a combination of 8606 extension cable and 8639 1.5 foot cable? I tend to wear out the microUSB connectors, so the low cost of the 8639s means it's easily swappable.

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#37 OFFLINE   kevinturcotte

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 08:14 PM

The charger works fine. As far as cable, yeah, I tend to wear them out fast too, because I tend to sit/lie in bed at an angle, resting the phone on my stomach while using it. Yeah, I know you're not supposed to use a phone while it's charging, but it's ALL I currently have (No computer), and I'm constantly on Twitter and Facebook, as well as other stuff, so kinda hard not to use the phone.

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#38 OFFLINE   acostapimps

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 01:18 AM

http://lmgtfy.com/?q... USB connection


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#39 ONLINE   jimmie57

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 09:49 AM

The charger works fine. As far as cable, yeah, I tend to wear them out fast too, because I tend to sit/lie in bed at an angle, resting the phone on my stomach while using it. Yeah, I know you're not supposed to use a phone while it's charging, but it's ALL I currently have (No computer), and I'm constantly on Twitter and Facebook, as well as other stuff, so kinda hard not to use the phone.

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Have you looked at any of the external / additional battery storage and chargers ?

http://www.sears.com...5_SPM9841616419

 

If you had 2 or 3 of these you could have one charging while you were using one.

 

Edit / Add: This one is 10,000 mAH.

http://www.sears.com..._SPM10823455316


Edited by jimmie57, 01 March 2014 - 05:53 AM.

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