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H20 Sat Signal Meter & H20 temp?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   CCarncross

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 06:57 PM

My H20 has been running for about 2 days now, off at night, and the thing just gets smoking hot to the touch.

Also, when I go in and check the sat signal transponders, they are all about 20 points lower than the R10 and D11

R10 and D11 mid to high 90's on all relevent transponders
H20 mid to high 70's for same transponders....

Anyone else noticing this with theirs?

I've checked the cabling, I've tried it with and without the b-band converter to make sure it wasnt faulty....and I also tried another output from the AT9's built-in multi-switch....

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#2 OFFLINE   HDTVsportsfan

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 07:03 PM

My H20 runs extremely hot as well. I bought a 110Volt 5" fan and put in the back of my enclosure blowing the hot air out the back. I found a cheap (but effective) cooling device used with/for laptops. This thing normally is placed in your lap while the laptop is then placed on top. It pulls the off the underside of the laptop and out the back. This thing is only about 3/4" tall 12" wide, and 8" deep made of plastic with three 2" muffin fans. It's gets power from the USB port. Anyway I just use it in reverse. I flipped it upside down and placed on the top of the H20 right over the vents and it pulls the air out of the receiver and out the back of the cooling device. It's in a cabinet so you don't see it. Between the H20, HR10-250, and the Sony HT receiver it was getting over 90. With these to fans it's down in the mid 70's. It's actually not to loud.

The signals in the high 70's to mid 80's is considered normal for the H20.
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#3 OFFLINE   Proc

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 07:50 PM

The first H20 I had was very hot. The second one isn't at all. And the signals tend to read 15-20 lower and more in some cases than other receivers. My H20 has readings in the upper 60s to upper 70s. My RCA40 Tivo unit says mid 90s.

#4 OFFLINE   CCarncross

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Posted 03 February 2006 - 08:14 PM

Thanks guys...so what does the signal have to drop off to to lose the feed, for the regular recievers and DVRs, it seemed like 60 or below would usually cause macro-blocking and losing the signal lock...does that mean 40's for the H20? I'm talking in inclement weather? Those couple of times a year we all tend to get...


HDTVsportsfan, I see you still have a SAT-B2, I still have my original receivers, one being a SAT-B2, from 1997 fully-functioning though they have both been retired, I thought those were SOny's though?

#5 OFFLINE   HDTVsportsfan

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Posted 04 February 2006 - 08:48 AM

Thanks guys...so what does the signal have to drop off to to lose the feed, for the regular recievers and DVRs, it seemed like 60 or below would usually cause macro-blocking and losing the signal lock...does that mean 40's for the H20? I'm talking in inclement weather? Those couple of times a year we all tend to get...


HDTVsportsfan, I see you still have a SAT-B2, I still have my original receivers, one being a SAT-B2, from 1997 fully-functioning though they have both been retired, I
thought those were SOny's though?


I don't know how low the signal can go before you lose the feed, I'm hoping I never find out.:)
I'm still using the SAT-B2. However, when I get the free 40GB DVR that D* is giving away it will soon be replaced. It's the least used location in the house right now. It's time to retire him as well. It's been very reliable. Months would go by and unless a storm or some other event occured, would stayed on months at time without having to reboot. I remember I got it at CC back in 96 and I had two models to choose from. I chose the B2 because the guide was so much better.
I'm not sure where this thing sits in the evolution of receivers, but it has to be one of the original models released.
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#6 OFFLINE   greywolf

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Posted 04 February 2006 - 09:57 AM

http://www.avsforum....1& has some good information on H20s running hot.

#7 OFFLINE   Earl Bonovich

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Posted 04 February 2006 - 10:11 AM

CC... mine is about the same as yours.

On the HR10-250, R15, R10s, DSR704... the signals are need peaking out at 95 to 100.

On the H20... They are in the high 70s....
I haven't seen a signal drop yet on it...

But is is DEFINENTLY the warmest of the bunch.
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#8 OFFLINE   CCarncross

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Posted 04 February 2006 - 10:45 AM

The SAT-B2 IIRC was one of if not the 1st D* receiver with a 16-bit processor. It was lightyears ahead speed-wise of the 8-bit RCA receivers...I had an RCA DRD-303 back in the day as well. Both work perfectly well to this day, they just have been severly obsoleted....

#9 OFFLINE   HDTVsportsfan

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Posted 04 February 2006 - 12:15 PM

The first H20 I had was very hot. The second one isn't at all.


Knowing this is a new model and other experiences on these forums I expected some oddities to work thru. The biggest thing I've noticed is it appears my H20 seems to reset itself. Not as in the unit runs thru some type of POST test like it's been power cycled. Rather when I switch channels the delay while it does it's resolution and and and conversion it needs to do is expected, but my display will show the window in the top left corner indicating what input I'm on like a manually changed it myself. I haven't convimced myself this is normal. I'm still trying determine the exact sequence of events that occurs to make this happen.

Point is, I've thought about having it replaced because of the how hot it gets, but it sounds like it's just characteristic of this model.
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#10 OFFLINE   f300v10

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Posted 05 February 2006 - 10:33 AM

The signal strength meter of the H20 is calibrated for the new KA signals, which are higher power than the older KU signals. So the H20 will only show a 90+ strength for the KA sat transponders and not the KU. The signal is just as strong on the KU as it is on your other boxes, it's just the H20 has a different meaning of what a '100' signal strength is. From what I can tell on the KU sats, low 80's on the H20 is the same as high 90's on older KU only boxes.


CC... mine is about the same as yours.

On the HR10-250, R15, R10s, DSR704... the signals are need peaking out at 95 to 100.

On the H20... They are in the high 70s....
I haven't seen a signal drop yet on it...

But is is DEFINENTLY the warmest of the bunch.



#11 OFFLINE   Coastsider

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Posted 06 February 2006 - 09:46 AM

The signal strength meter of the H20 is calibrated for the new KA signals, which are higher power than the older KU signals. So the H20 will only show a 90+ strength for the KA sat transponders and not the KU. The signal is just as strong on the KU as it is on your other boxes, it's just the H20 has a different meaning of what a '100' signal strength is. From what I can tell on the KU sats, low 80's on the H20 is the same as high 90's on older KU only boxes.


On my H20 I still get two transponders on the 101 that still peak out at 100 but everything else is in the 68-88 range. The single transponder I can see on the new 103 sat peaks at 96 so I guess the installer did a pretty good job aiming my AT9.

Relative to the heat generated by the H20 - I noticed how warm it ran right away and can see where it might be problematic inside of a cabinet and would definitely provide some sort of additional exhaust fan in such a situation. I have my H20 stacked on top of my SAT-T60 but separated by a piece of quarter inch plate glass that is spaced with those little grippy round rubber stick-on feet 3/4" from both the top of the Sony and the bottom of the H20, providing lots of room for air movement.




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