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Guest Message by DevFuse

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My multiswitch is maxed-out


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21 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   kevnick97

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 11:43 AM

I bought an 8th tv for the house and already had a receiver I could use which I had earlier deactivated when I replaced it with an H20. I figured I had one out line available on my multiswitch since I only had 7 tv's. However I forgot that I had 2 lines going to a DVR unit. So I was disappointed to figure out that my multiswitch was already maxed-out.

I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort had I started on this forum, but instead I tried a splitter in one of the lines. I activated the old receiver, and everything worked fine for awhile. Then I started losing channels, etc., and eventually figured out that splitting the signal doesn't work. I took out the splitter and hooked it all up the way it was before.

In summary, I have the line in place to an activated receiver, but I don't have the line connected on the satelite end. I would hate to have to call a tech/ installer to come out just for this problem. Is there a simple way to get this line active? I am not real technical guy, so if the answer is something like "cascading of multiswitches," I am toast, and I'll just have to bite the bullet and call a tech. Thanks!

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#2 OFFLINE   h4b1t

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 11:58 AM

I've read somewhere in these forums that you can connect one multi switch to another by running 4 lines out of the first multi switch into the next multi switch. I haven't tried it and and I couldn't find the post. Hope this helps.

#3 OFFLINE   mhayes70

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 12:05 PM

Here is a diagram of how to do it. I copied it from one of the post on here. I hope this helps you.

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#4 OFFLINE   Groundhog45

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 12:53 PM

That way will give you 16 ports. You can use the method mentioned above of using 4 outputs from the first switch into the second switch. That will give you 12 ports by just cascading the two.

GH

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#5 OFFLINE   kevnick97

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 01:10 PM

Thanks for the help. I probably can follow this drawing. It seems a little strange to me. You can't split a line going out of a multiswitch, but you can split lines that are going into multiswitches?

#6 OFFLINE   k0rww

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 02:39 PM

Thanks for the help. I probably can follow this drawing. It seems a little strange to me. You can't split a line going out of a multiswitch, but you can split lines that are going into multiswitches?


In simplistic terms:
If it's done after the switch, correct switching can't take place. When done before the switch, all information is available to both multi-switches.

#7 OFFLINE   kevnick97

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 05:40 PM

Thanks for the explanation. Actually it does make sense now. My biggest problem is probably getting power to this additional multi-switch. Do all multi-switches reguire power? Also, they look expensive! Circuit City lists the Terk MS at $150. Yikes! Are there any better solutions?

#8 OFFLINE   ciscokidd979

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 06:17 PM

Try Solidsignal.com for the multiswitches and splitters. I did the same thing and ordered the high frequency spillters thru them. The multiswitches are cheaper thru them as well. Good luck.
Directv since '98/Premium Package/NFL Sunday Ticket Equipment-(2) HR24-100 (1) Directv R-15, Whole-Home connected, Samsung 55" LED 7 series & Mitsubishi HD projector on 106 inch screen

#9 OFFLINE   mhayes70

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 06:51 PM

Thanks for the explanation. Actually it does make sense now. My biggest problem is probably getting power to this additional multi-switch. Do all multi-switches reguire power? Also, they look expensive! Circuit City lists the Terk MS at $150. Yikes! Are there any better solutions?


No, not if you use a Zinwell WB68. I think it is the only one certified by Directv for the MPEG-4 satellites and 5lnb dish. I think mine ran around $50-$60.

#10 OFFLINE   Car1181

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 08:28 PM

Thanks for the explanation. Actually it does make sense now. My biggest problem is probably getting power to this additional multi-switch. Do all multi-switches reguire power? Also, they look expensive! Circuit City lists the Terk MS at $150. Yikes! Are there any better solutions?


You may be able to take two of the lines coming from your current multiswitch and connect them to a 3X4 multiswitch. That will give you two more lines than you currently have. However, the four lines coming from the 3X4 will only work with SD boxes, not HD. I'm not 100% on this. Can anyone confirm?

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#11 OFFLINE   naijai

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 12:15 AM

You may be able to take two of the lines coming from your current multiswitch and connect them to a 3X4 multiswitch. That will give you two more lines than you currently have. However, the four lines coming from the 3X4 will only work with SD boxes, not HD. I'm not 100% on this. Can anyone confirm?


Thats true only the 101 sat will be detected
Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm.
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All comments are my own. Unless specifically stated, my views DO NOT represent the views of DIRECTV

#12 OFFLINE   kevnick97

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 07:45 AM

Thanks for all of the advice. I really appreciate it. I should have started here in the first place!

#13 OFFLINE   Skip Towne

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 08:28 AM

Are those just regular splitters in the diagram? What frequency range?

#14 OFFLINE   Earl Bonovich

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 08:30 AM

Actually, if you are using WB68 switches, then yes... fairly regular splitters.

Then need to be 2.5ghz or better... and they need to pass DC current on both legs (for a MPEG4 WB68 setup)

BTW:
If anyone needs this solution for a non-mpeg-4 setup... drop me a PM.
I have the entire setup already done and completed sitting in my garage.. (I built it for my father)
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#15 OFFLINE   Mavrick

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 09:20 AM

I had planned on cascading my Sam-6802 switch off of the WB68 when I added my HR20 I was going to have the HR20 and the HR10-250 running off of the WB68 and the 3 R15's running off of the Sam-6802 the problem I now have is the Install tech had placed the 6802 in his truck and when I asked him about where it was he said he was supposed to keep it I said I dont think so for D* said it was mine.

He then placed me on the phone with the local install office and as I explained the situation to them the tech dissapeared. I mean he got in his truck and speed away when I told them this they said yes that the switch was mine and the tech was not supposed to take it and they would get in touch with him and have him return it well almost 3 weeks later still no switch.

I have called several times to no avail I still dont have my switch back and feel it is probably long gone which is fine I just want a 6 x 8 that I can use to connect my extra reciever to.

D* scheduled another tech to come out on Sat. to fix some other issues with the wiring of the AT9 and told me to explain the situation to him and that he should be able to get with his supervisor and get it resolved. I am not holding my breath though and figure that I will just have to end up ordering a replacement switch at my expense which I am not happy about. :(

#16 OFFLINE   bobnielsen

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 11:38 AM

Thanks for the explanation. Actually it does make sense now. My biggest problem is probably getting power to this additional multi-switch. Do all multi-switches reguire power? Also, they look expensive! Circuit City lists the Terk MS at $150. Yikes! Are there any better solutions?


The Zinwell WB68 multiswitches are not powered. They are not that expensive ($79.99 at solidsignal.com, probably cheaper elsewhere).

#17 OFFLINE   kevnick97

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 01:21 PM

That's good news, Bob. If I don't have to power it, it makes things much easier. I am not sure what make my existing multi-switch is. I know it is powered. Could there be any compatibility issues using the WB68? Having one that is powered and one that is not? Two different makes of multi-switches?

#18 OFFLINE   Mavrick

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 02:00 PM

It should not be a problem what make and model is your existing switch?

#19 OFFLINE   bobnielsen

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 04:34 PM

That's good news, Bob. If I don't have to power it, it makes things much easier. I am not sure what make my existing multi-switch is. I know it is powered. Could there be any compatibility issues using the WB68? Having one that is powered and one that is not? Two different makes of multi-switches?


If you want MPEG4 capability for all receivers you will need to replace your existing switch with a WB68. Otherwise you could place the WB68 first and feed two outputs to your existing switch (SAT A only) or 4 outputs from the WB68 to your existing switch (SAT A, B and C). It shouldn't matter if the existing switch is powered. It just means that the switching signal to the dish is coming from the powered switch rather than the receiver (making voltage drop in the cable less of a concern).

#20 OFFLINE   captain_video

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 06:23 PM

The Zinwell WB68's can be bought on ebay for about $20-30, or even less. Wideband splitters (2.3MHz) can be found at Home Depot for about $7 each.




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