Current SWM compatible receivers:
*---- Log satellite transponders/strength signal readings
*---- Log SWM signal strength
*---- Check & verify that "all BBC's" are removed from all SWM receivers
*---- Check & Verify on the power inserter (PI) that the green LED is on through vent slot.
*---- Check & Verify SWM signal strength.
*---- Check & verify that all connections are tight
*---- Check & verify on the PI that red FTM output goes to the SWM
*---- Check & verify that coax distance don’t exceed 60' from the dish to the SWM
*---- Check & verify that the min distance for the coax for the pi is no shorter than 15'
*---- Check & verify that the splitters pass power on only one leg, If using splitters and more than one SWM
*---- Check & verify if only SWM port is used, the 2nd SWM port has a terminator cap installed
*---- "Warning" The "Red FTM output" must go to the SWM or it can destroy all receivers!
*---- "Warning" the PI (power supply) must be inside for it is NOT weather resistant.
*---- The SWM can be place inside or outside
*---- The maximum coax length coming off the SWM to each receiver is a max of 100"
*---- When only (1) SWM port. There must have the terminator cap installed or a 15’ piece of coax
*---- Use good quality compression connectors
Advance Troubleshooting Methods
*NOTE* we will add more symptoms, and match tips worked to the problems later on
Is the Receiver or the SWM at Fault?
When boots it went to searching for signal on step 2 of 2 and just stayed there until it timed out. (All other SWM receivers are working.)
Advance trouble shooting Tips:
1. Enter the setup menu and check all signal strengths for each Sat tuner and SWM tuner. If this shows random transponders scattered around Sats 101, 110 and 119 with signal on tuner 1, but doesn’t show any SWM tuners, the SWM should be considered as working at this point.
2. Perform a menu reset or RBR (red button reset), to verify if any of the same results reoccurs.
3. If (2) doesn’t resolve the problem, perform a hard power-off. Turn off the unit and pull the power cord for a minimum of 10 minutes. (No results? Proceed to step 4)
4. Make sure all receivers are unplugged including the SWM. Switch the HR20 line to the SWM-2 port on the SWM. Re-plug the pi for the SWM and wait a few minutes. Then one-by-one power up each receiver allowing boot-up time. (No results? Proceed to step 5)
5. Perform a “reset everything”. (no results? Proceed to step 6)
If 1-5 has not provided any favorable results. Time for more drastic measures to be taken in the next following Tips:
6. Grounding is very touchy issue to find and fix. This is sometimes just easier to re-install a new ground wire to the SWM (Must meet your local electrical code enforcements). Then perform another RBR. (no results? Proceed to step 6)
7. Existing RG-6 coax (or RG59) could be pinched somewhere between the SWM module and receivers’. If using any splitters, remove all and run all new coax with new quality compression fittings to rule out that possibility of bad cables, compression connectors, and splitters. Then follow the proper procedure in step (4) to fire everything back up. (No results? Proceed to step 8)
8. Perform another reset everything to redo satellite setup. Now if there is still no favorable results with it being connected on SWM-1 & SWM -2 ports. Switch to the Legacy ports, to see if it works. Leave the H21 or H20-100 on the SWM-1 port. If the HR20 now works on the Legacy port as well as the H21 or H20-100 still works on the SWM. (Please follow the conclusion)
From all the troubleshooting steps listed above, the HR-20 is more than likely at fault and will need to be replaced. Out of these steps (1-8) the H21 is working on the SWM-1 (2); therefore, the SWM should be considered ok.
Is the SWM or the Receiver at Fault
Edited by gulfwarvet, 28 December 2008 - 10:48 PM.