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Audio Receiver

Discussion in 'DIRECTV HD DVR/Receiver Discussion' started by gregftlaud, Apr 5, 2011.

  1. spartanstew

    spartanstew Dry as a bone

    Nov 16, 2005
    Wylie, Texas
    That's one potential negative to using the A/V receiver as a switcher, however, most displays allow you to have multiple calibrations. You could tweak "Normal" for the DVR, "Natural" for the BD player, and "Torch" for the WD Live, for example. Then you would just need to select the correct mode when switching sources.
  2. CCarncross

    CCarncross Hall Of Fame

    Jul 19, 2005
    While I am somewhat picky about PQ, I havent resorted to calibrating for each source a little differently...if all your sources use the same color space, black level, etc...there shouldnt be any differences...yeah, I know, its not a perfect world...:)
  3. gregftlaud

    gregftlaud Hall Of Fame

    Nov 20, 2005
    Yah i never thought of that if only one HDMI input is used on the tv then u have the same calibration for all your receivers, dvd players, xbox, etc etc. Yah that is one negative.
  4. kikkenit2

    kikkenit2 Icon

    Oct 25, 2006
    All the higher end a/v receivers save independent audio and video settings for each input. It just depends on how much you are willing to pay. And all higher end receivers still have some component hd video and toslink digital audio inputs. The receiver does all the proper switching and leave the tv alone. One button push on a good remote is all it takes. How much are you willing to spend?
  5. hilmar2k

    hilmar2k Hall Of Fame

    Mar 18, 2007
    None of the higher end a/v receivers can hold the TV PQ adjustments for each input.
  6. TomCat

    TomCat Broadcast Engineer

    Aug 31, 2002
    I would check out the JVC D401S. Mine has been a perfect performer and a joy to own. It is also a bargain price for the level of sound quality.

    It claims to be a "digital" amp, or class D, sometimes known as class G. It is not true digital as that would require converting audio to true PCM digital words for processing. What AVRs in this class do is PWM, or pulse width modulation rather than pulse code modulation, which means that they amplify the analog signal and severely clip it, which produces a pseudo-PWM signal. That happens at a low level, and all processing afterwards is in PWM mode up through the power amp stages. Then in the "D-to-A" stage just before output (not exactly because it wasn't true digital to begin with) they brick-wall low-pass filter the PWM signal which turns it back into a conventional analog waveform (removes the clipping).

    If that sounds incredible, well it sort of is, because the sound is incredible, especially for this price point, and it has huge gains in efficiency over class A, AB, B, and C amp circuits. It does produce heat, but there are 7x110 watt amps all in a 2 RU-high form factor. Normal amps would have to be 5 RU with giant heat sinks to provide this level of power, and would weigh another 50 lbs. So there is a nice wife-acceptance factor at work here, as well. It's also about as green as AVRs get.

    It has all of the current codecs and features, but most importantly it has some features that serve DTV viewers well, including up to 100 ms of delay and HDMI upswitching (any level of video at input is upswitched to HDMI output with Faroudja processing). It also has "Midnite Mode", which is their implementation of Dolby metadata-based audio level control, which works on any AC-3 (any HD or SD digital) program.

    Before I got this amp I was using a 1990-circa Yamaha, a great classic AVR with cult status. But when watching a show such as CSI, when they were discussing stuff in the lab I would turn up the volume enough to hear what they were saying, only to be blasted out of my chair once the "video re-creation" vignette would begin. Up, down, up, down, constantly. Since I got this amp I never touch the remote to adjust levels, either in a program, from program to commercial, or from channel to channel, as it automatically levels these discrepancies out. That is a feature that alone is worth the price of admission.

    There is a D301 model that has a few less bells and whistles and less watts per channel for well under $300, but is has all of the important stuff. The 401 and 700 series add stuff like USB, Sirius, MP3 optimization, etc. 10 years ago an amp with this power and quality (and with fewer features) was hard to find under $1000. Now its a fraction of that.
  7. gregftlaud

    gregftlaud Hall Of Fame

    Nov 20, 2005
  8. RunnerFL

    RunnerFL Well-Known Member

    Jan 4, 2006
    Here you go:


    Much cheaper and just as reliable. I've ordered this exact cable from Amazon before and have had no problems with it.
  9. gregftlaud

    gregftlaud Hall Of Fame

    Nov 20, 2005
    Well i went ahead and got the mediabridge. (submitted the order before i read ur post) Oh well only 7 bucks more. Is MediaBridge a good brand?
  10. spartanstew

    spartanstew Dry as a bone

    Nov 16, 2005
    Wylie, Texas
    I'm sure mediabridge is fine. There's very little different in HDMI cables. I usually get mine for about $3.
  11. liquidctv

    liquidctv Legend

    Oct 13, 2010
    >Is MediaBridge a good brand?

    There only seems to be 2 things that differentiate hdmi cables. 1. How thick is the copper (AWG), and 2. Is it high-speed 3D-ready, or standard.

    Other than that, I wouldn't worry about the brand.

    >What AVRs in this class do is PWM, or pulse width modulation

    Just did a quick wiki on this, PWM sounds like a big win for efficiency (90%+). And the form-factor is tiny.

    But I don't think it is clipping the signal. (Nor would you want to brag about that.) It is approximating a sine wave by pulsing a square wave. By pulsing a square wave, you are "off" for some percentage of time, which is where the efficiency comes in.

    >it has some features that serve DTV viewers well, including up to 100 ms of delay

    This is a handy feature, but I'm wondering what happens if the TV is ahead of the amp. I guess you would pass video (and audio) through the receiver first.
  12. jahgreen

    jahgreen Godfather

    Dec 15, 2006
    I don't know whether you've chosen your receiver, but here's what I did when my 13-year old Sony STR-DA30ES stopped working about a month ago.

    First, I decided on my price range ($400-600 in my case). Then I did some internet searches for reviews of receivers in that price range. After I had narrowed my candidates to two or three, I went to the AVS Forum and searched for threads on those candidates.

    I wound up buying a Denon AVR-891, which I'm happy with, but I'm sure other manufacturers have equivalent products. The AVR-891 has four digital audio inputs, 2 optical and 2 coaxial. Lower-priced units have fewer, higher-priced have more.

    I am using the receiver to switch between video sources, with one HDMI cable to the TV. I haven't noted any degradation in the picture. I have read reports that there are sometimes HDMI issues between certain receivers and DirecTV DVRs but I haven't had any problem.

    The Denon remembers audio and video settings for each input, but I have not played around with its video settings at all. You might ask about that over at AVS.

    Another reason to go to AVS: the folks over there have all kinds of detailed knowledge about the receiver's controls and settings. It would be extremely difficult to figure everything out based on the manual only. Here's an example of the detail you can get--it's the thread that applies to the Denon I purchased:


    Good luck.
  13. WestDC

    WestDC Well-Known Member

    Feb 9, 2008
    I bought one of these this week and hooked it up to my hr22 and the upscaling chip really makes a big difference in the picture resolution. I also ordered two 10' HDMI cords from Monoprice for $15 including shipping my picture was good before the A/v receiver addition but now it's Super great!

    The unit Tx-nr609 was $499 total the best money I ever spent :)
  14. gregftlaud

    gregftlaud Hall Of Fame

    Nov 20, 2005
    So I got those Bluerigger hdmi cables from amazon. They are great. Good cabling....nylon and braided.....very thick. Gold tips. I have to say i was using monster and i know everyone says that hdmi cables dont make a difference but i freaking paid 129 bucks for this monster cable a couple of years ago and this Bluerigger hdmi cabling seems to give a richer color picture. Anyways i went ahead and got the receiver and did all pass thru everyone was right picture isnt degraded. Having this setup along with a Harmony One remote is the best. Having to use only one HDMI input is very convenient esp when switching between devices. Oh btw, here is that BlueRigger hdmi cables. I wont buy any different brand of cables again. Ugh all that money wasted on hdmi. But i have to say years aqo on these forums there were ALOT of people preaching about how much better monster cables are/were so that's why i went with them. http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Hi...5DT0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1310337081&sr=8-4
  15. joed32

    joed32 Hall Of Fame

    Jul 27, 2006
    Currently $11.72.
  16. larryah

    larryah AllStar

    Jul 29, 2010
    I have a HR24-500 with HDMI to a Pioneer 1020 receiver, and HDMI to my Samsung 53 " LCD. Also use a Harmony One. PQ is at least as good as going direct to TV, and the Harmony has no problem with the arrangement.

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