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Delayed Install

Discussion in 'DIRECTV Installation/MDU Discussion' started by andunn27, Oct 25, 2007.

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  1. andunn27

    andunn27 Legend

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    Sep 24, 2007
    Please see previous thread:

    http://www.dbstalk.com/showthread.php?p=1234053#post1234053

    Well the installer came out today and we told him that we required a pole mount and that a roof install would not work because the previous installer already walked the entire roof. Well he did not believe us so he kept looking around the house and said that he could not get on the roof because he did not bring a long enough ladder. I told him all he needed to do was go on our back patio and it was about 8 feet from there. Well he finally did and came down and confirmed that a roof mount was not possible.

    Then I showed him where I wanted the dish and pole mounted so he took his little eye device thing out (what is that called anyways?) and confirmed that this would work. Then he said "Oh no I can't do the install because I don't have a pole for the slimline dish and that the meter box was more than 25 feet away. He said he absolutely had to attach the grounding to the meter box even though the old dish was not set up this way.

    So he had to get on the phone with his supervisor who said it would be okay because the old dish was already grounded and it was an upgrade. It just would not be attached to the meter box. If it hadn't been okay he would have had to run a grounding cable all the way around the house.

    So he told me he would need to dig a hole and bury the cable, however, the hole and cables would be in gravel. So he told he I had to buy some PVC pipe to run the cables through because he didn't want the rock digging into the cables after they were buried. He said it would be $75-80 to do the pole mount.

    So I spent the last 4 hours digging a hole for the pole to go into and a trench for the PVC pipe and cables to be ran through so when he comes back out on Monday he won't have an excuse not to do the install.

    In terms of the ground the first 1-2 inches is white rock gravel then comes the gound which is a dirt/rock mix. The hole I dug was about 1 1/2 feet in the ground. Will I need to use cement or will it be fine after filling it in with the dirt/rock removed from the hole? If cement is necessary will the installer bring it or will I have to provide it?

    I just want to be prepared next time he comes out because I am sick and tired of the delays and I just want my HD.
     
  2. phat78boy

    phat78boy Hall Of Fame

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    Sep 12, 2007
    I'm pretty sure cement is included in a pole mount situation. With the size of the 5LNB dishes it had better. You could always give them a call to confirm.
     
  3. andunn27

    andunn27 Legend

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    Sep 24, 2007
    Well I called Directv and had to explain it to them and they said they were not sure. Can anyone confirm that the installer brings cement for pole mounts?
     
  4. gulfwarvet

    gulfwarvet Tips & Resources Collaboration

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    Mar 7, 2007
    Mine did, he had a few bags of "quick set" cermet with the same number of pole's. now do i say they all come prepare no, but must do that i've came across.

    also i would insist they used cement, if not over time with the wind pushing against the dish would make the pole spin in the ground over time causing you to lose signal.
     
  5. phat78boy

    phat78boy Hall Of Fame

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    Sep 12, 2007
    Get the installers number from D* and call them.
     
  6. narcolept

    narcolept Godfather

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    Mar 1, 2007
    Best advice in the thread. Call the HSP and find out if they'll bring it, if they will not, head to Lowes/Home Depot/your favorite store with concrete and buy a bag of fast setting concrete - Shouldn't be more than $4.
     
  7. RobertE

    RobertE New Member

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    Jun 9, 2006
    The installer *should* bring the required cement with him.

    The QC field guide also specifies that a minimum of 150lbs should be used. Overkill, IMHO, but thats what it states. Still haven't figured out how the QC would know if I used, 50, 100 or 150 of cement. :confused: It's not like he's going to dig it all up and go "Aha! You only used 125lbs. You Fail!" :rolleyes:
     
  8. andunn27

    andunn27 Legend

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    Sep 24, 2007

    I will call them back tonight and get the number to the actual installers and call them tomorow during the day.
     
  9. andunn27

    andunn27 Legend

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    Sep 24, 2007
    How big does the diameter of the hole need to be for the pole mount? Mine is about 6-7 inches and about 1 1/2 feet deep. Again I just don't want them coming out and saying the hole is not wide enough.

    By the way this site rocks! Quick responses and everyone is so helpful! Thanks.
     
  10. gulfwarvet

    gulfwarvet Tips & Resources Collaboration

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    Mar 7, 2007
    far as depth:
    you want to be below any frost line which varies on your location. which i believe is 10" below that. like central Ohio total depth is 32" that is the required depth to be below frost depth. but set mine at 36", i just believe 3ft is a good general rule of thumb with any post/pole.
    far as width:
    i've seen 10" wide hole which is about a few inches wider than a regular post hole digger.
     
  11. west99999

    west99999 Icon

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    May 11, 2007
    The hole should be 3 feet deep and 16 in wide and you should use at least 3 40 # bags of quickcrete and a little quickroc if setting the pole same day
     
  12. davring

    davring Hall Of Fame

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    Jan 13, 2007
    A 3 foot deep hole approxamately 10" in diameter(std post hole digger dia)will hold 2 60 lb bags of Sakrete.
     
  13. gulfwarvet

    gulfwarvet Tips & Resources Collaboration

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    Mar 7, 2007
    Yes 3ft is the min the hole should be as i noted as the general rule, but also consider that "IF" the frost line is 42" deep like in some parts of the country is. 3ft wouldn't work from the freezing and thawing that occurs. which will cause the pole to rise and fall during seasonal changes. which could cause the Dish to get out of alignment over time.
     
  14. Techie

    Techie Cool Member

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    Sep 17, 2007
    3 Ft is good. Technician should bring enough quick setting cement. I would also bend a side end of the pole to flattin it somewhat or a foot member from a mast-pipe foot mount to keep the dish from turning in the ground works well to. Once he sets the pipe and levels it he will lock the dish on the sats and you don't want it to move by the wind to the left or right. The bending of the pole or use of the foot will stop this from happening.
    The loop in the cable keeps the water from rain-snow from following the cable. The pvc pipe generaly is good to keep rodents from chewing on the cable. The cable on the other end should have a arm extention upwards to the switch with a loop to keep the water-snow from getting onto the switch connections.
    The ground should be attached to the dish mount with a screw and grounded at the switch away from the dish. The switch should be grounded to an acceptable ground point such as an electrical box,water pipe,rod in the ground,or air conditioner box that's already grounded. The green wire should be no longer than 25ft. Hope this helps! :D
     
  15. andunn27

    andunn27 Legend

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    Sep 24, 2007
    Looks like I know what I am doing the rest of the weekend.... Digging the remaining 1 1/2 feet to make it 3
     
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