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DLP Lamp and Housing

17K views 70 replies 37 participants last post by  dontknow 
#1 ·
I want to have a spare lamp on hand for my Samsung HLS5687WX/XAA and find some sites far more reasonably priced than samsung.

What I am wondering is they offer the housing for add'l $20. Do I really need that? They say it makes it easier. Is it hard to remove the bulb from the housing? Doesn't seem like it would be 'rocket science' but who knows. If its a pain, then maybe its worth the $20

Does anyone have any advice regarding that.

Does the picture on this url at the top showing the housing or is that the lamp without the housing. I have never looked at mine, so at this stage its all new and unknown. Thanks for any help
http://www.rivervalleyelectronics.net/Samsung_BP96_01472A_Lamp_p/bp96-01472a.htm?gclid=CO2O1sXD8JcCFQMCagod6yVMCg
 
#52 ·
Well, I've conservatively spent 25+ years "making things work" -or trying to, so I didn't think it was really all that bad, more an annoyance. OTOH, I wanted others to be wary if they do find a "bulb replacement" until such an animal actually exists. It wasn't a drop-in sort of job.

The alignment issue isn't a big deal, but it's difficult to get it lined up without machining the enclosure a bit to better fit the face of the bulb/reflector. I may get the bug and do it eventually. It really doesn't impact the image noticeably, but if I display a white test screen I can see the far right side of the image is a bit less bright/more very lightly beige colored. Fortunately, viewing video it's rather invisible. I might try doing it if I feel better alignment would increase the brightness enough to make it worth the trouble of doing it -we're talking a few degrees(maybe 5+) of misalignment here, nothing crazy.

As far as why it's so hard to find the bulb only, my guess is it stems back to panasonic's using a bulb/reflector with no part # printed on it and perhaps the sets are still new enough that there is just now sufficient interest being expressed in replacements for third parties to get into the act? Also, they(Pana) had a bit of litigation a while back involving bulbs so maybe they're trying to stay proprietary and make a buck or two back and limit further claims, etc. Further, most people would probably prefer a plug-in assembly where they don't have to clip two steel wires and connect them to screw terminals on a replacement, be wary of oil from the fingers/hands, etc. I find the general public has very little knowledge regarding anything electrical or electronic, beyond what little they have to learn to operate a device -often at the most rudimentary level.
 
#53 ·
In case anyone was wondering, the "slightly" mismatched bulb I purchased is still going strong after nearly two months of service with an average of around 6 hours or so usage a day -a bit more some weekends. (I keep forgetting to check the hours counter on the service menu...)

Overall brightness seems to have improved -and to be fair I always had it cranked up to about +25 out of 30 even with the original bulb. I've cranked the RGB levels back down to zero, set the brightness back down to "normal"(previous) levels, but find I'm still switching between FULL and MID on Gamma and twiddling the brightness depending on certain shows. I'm leaning toward a lot of that being increased sensitivity on my part and the wide variation in video sources/production. I don't claim to have calibrated anything. I'm obviously paying more attention to the quality of the image and maybe being a bit more picky and more likely to open the menu and tweak things bit.

I suppose the most interesting part of the whole "experiment" is that despite multiple warnings in LARGE BLACK HEAVY TYPE FONTS on the bulb sites, in the Panny manuals, etc., I either got rather lucky or, as I suspected, there is a bit of range allowed in terms of specs and getting other than spec'd bulbs to work with the lamp power supply circuits/ballasts/etc. Granted, some physical modification of the lamp carrier was required in my case.

I often wonder at the tendency in our modern throw-away society to toss something the minute an exact replacement part is no longer available. In this case it was not exactly that, but I do prefer my $129 solution to the $300 solution graciously offered me by the manufacturer... Frankly, I have a hard time accepting that either the "correct" bulb or the surrounding plastic carrier would have been worth the added cost. In fact the "bulb" removed isn't really a fully sealed/enclosed lamp like the replacement, but a tube/filament mounted in an open reflector... I'm not sure if that was for heat reasons, lower cost manufacturing, etc.?

Truth be told, I'm looking forward to the eventual possibility of a white LED source replacement and far less hassle over time. I'd love to cram a matrix of Luxeons in there if I thought I could get near the right color temperature & enough heat transfer, and I could fake out the lighting/ignition circuit so the TV thinks it has a lit bulb, or bypass it.
Project for another day...
 
#54 ·
erosroadie said:
This discussion poses a question I have to the DLP veterans out there...

Should one change a lamp when the typical number of hours has transpired, or does one wait until it doesn't turn on? I ask because with the Super Bowl coming up, I have about 3,500 hrs on my Samsung 50" DLP. I already have a spare bulb and was expecting to change it when the current one goes out. This has yet to happen. So…should I change it now before the big game, or simply wait until it casts its last light…?:confused:
What I did was buy a new lamp when I bought my TV. Then when the lamp burned out I had one to replace it. I then bought another lamp immediately. This way you always have a spare. Another approach would be to buy a new lamp now, replace the current lamp and keep it as a spare.
 
#55 ·
to the OP, when I replaced my lamp in my Mitsu, I got the lamp and housing together. The housing had to be returned or there would have been a 'core' charge for not returning it within a week. Beaware if you order a spare, they may expect you to return your old housing within a few days,
 
#56 ·
To update my situation, when the bulb totally blew out in my 3LCD Panny, I replaced it with the new Toshiba 47ZV650U LCD set.

I'm extremely happy with the new set, even though I now have a useless 52-inch TV that is less than three years old.
 
#58 ·
Bumping an old thread up from the dead . . .

Same thing is going on with my 2006 Samsung HLS5688W. Dimmer and dimmer over the last few weeks, finally got so bad yesterday that you can hardly see the screen in a dim room. I ordered a new bulb and housing from samsungparts.com and should have it by Friday. It's painful to wait but we have other TVs to watch in the house in the meantime.

Just for grins, I went into the service menu of the TV today (while I can still sort of see it :lol:) and found that I have 10,331 hours on the original bulb. Not too bad I guess.
 
#59 ·
The lamp for my Optoma HD7100 front projector died last week with 5882 hours on it. I figured that was pretty good for a 3,000 hour lamp. Thankfully the projector came with a spare bulb so I have at least another two or three years to get out of it.
 
#60 ·
The lamp in my Samsung HLS-4266W just died last week and i am looking for replacments with prices ranging from $117 - $300. How can i tell how long my lamp lasted for and anyone have any websites they recommend for getting replacements
 
#61 ·
If that's your price range you should be able to find a local supplier. We sell them but we are in the southwest. Check your local yellow pages and craigslist. Make sure it is new and the original bulb. Should be a BP96-01578A with a Philips 120-132w bulb inside. Do not accept any other brand of bulb for this Samsung as they do not last and could be harmful to your set. In Phoenix AZ we list new DLP Lamps on craigslist.
You should be able to find a similar source near you.
 
#62 ·
And the lamp hours is in the hidden service menu and it is no place for the consumer. You could cause more problems if you go in there. If the lamp has ever been replaced, then the hours total would be for all lamps since last reset. The reset is also in the service menu. The lamp can be visually inspected accurately in most cases. To get a really good test you need to fire them up with a ballast. This is something a good supplier or shop should be able to do for you in your area.
 
#63 ·
Hello, I am new to this forum. I have recently replaced my bulb as the TV would just randomly shut off on its own. Now a few months later, the TV all of a sudden got dimmer. Even when I adjust the brightness, it doesn't seem to effect it at all. Anyone know what may be causing it?
 
#64 ·
Sounds a little like a problem with the drive circuit if the brightness control doesn't have any impact. Depending on the TV, there may also be an failed aperture control in play.

The first test would be to re-set the lamp in its mount to address a poor contact issue.
 
#65 ·
clbourq said:
Hello, I am new to this forum. I have recently replaced my bulb as the TV would just randomly shut off on its own. Now a few months later, the TV all of a sudden got dimmer. Even when I adjust the brightness, it doesn't seem to effect it at all. Anyone know what may be causing it?
What is the make and model of your TV?
Do you change your lamp from the front or rear of the TV?
Did you replace the bulb and housing or just the bulb itself?

I ask these because they were a few Sony Grand Wega and Bravia models in which you accessed the lamp in the front. These units had this plastic door which tended to warp causing the locking screw to misalign with the safety which in turn would cause the TV to shut off unexpectedly.
The cause of this warping was one of two issues. One being a faulty thermostat (there was a service bulletin issued for this problem and is covered by Sony) and the second being a faulty or clogged fan.

My first suggestion is to unplug your TV and remove the lamp. Take a vacuum to it and clean out anything that looks like it is there for a vent. Vacuum out where the lamp sits and then re-seat it. Be sure not to over tighten the screws as this also can cause strange issues.

If you replaced both bulb and housing. Depending on the type, you may be able to remove the bulb from it's current housing and put it in the old one. I had a Sony at one time which was fussy and it not matter where I bought my lamps from that TV wanted it's old housing and the TV was not the same without it.
 
#69 ·
marym said:
I also bought a lamp with a cage. It worked for me. I ordered it online at tvsparelamps.com I was really happy with their delivery methods. I would not suggest a lamp only.
I bought a Samsung OEM bulb at a local repair place. It came with plastic gloves. It took about ten minutes. Four screws to pull the housing and four screws on the bulb bracket.
 
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