Hardwood floors & cabinets

Discussion in 'The OT' started by SledgeHammer, Apr 18, 2021.

  1. SledgeHammer

    SledgeHammer Icon

    3,556
    564
    Dec 28, 2007
    Has anyone put wood flooring into a house (kitchen) that had something thinner like tile or linoleum, etc? How do you deal with the kitchen cabinets?

    I put tile in my current house where the house was "built for linoleum" by the builder, and with tile, they just filled in the gaps around the cabinet with grout.

    Since tile is about 1/4" and hardwood is 3/4"... the cabinets will appear "sunken into the floor", no? Do you just cover the gap with 1/4" round? Also read some suggestions you can add a thin veneer to the toe kick to cover the gap. I was looking at my kitchen, and the toe kick veneer would work for the fronts, but there are two spots where the side is visible.

    Also how do you deal if you have a counter overhang that has support posts?

    Basically, its a situation where I plan on replacing the cabinets AND switching to hardwood, but can't necessarily do them both at the same time as you gotta figure hardwood is probably $25k to $30k all in (about 2000 to 2400 sq ft) and new cabinets & countertop are another $15k to $25k?

    I guess the best result it to do them both at the same time so you can demo the cabinets and then do the floor and then put the cabinets in so everything is leveled properly.
     
  2. James Long

    James Long Ready for Uplink! Staff Member Super Moderator DBSTalk Gold Club DBSTalk Club

    51,907
    2,540
    Apr 17, 2003
    Michiana
    I'm not sure how it was done since it was done before I bought my house, but my kitchen cabinets are "sunken into the floor" and it is not visually obvious.
    We replaced the flooring and sub flooring a few years ago without changing the level. That is when we noticed.

    Since our house has always been that way and yours would change you may notice (muscle memory) that the countertops have been lowered. I noticed the difference in height of desks when I changed desks at work a few years ago and had to build a matching height desk for my work at home arrangement because the difference was distracting. But I spend more hours at a desk than I do in the kitchen.
     
  3. b4pjoe

    b4pjoe New Member

    1,874
    560
    Nov 19, 2010
    I wouldn't put hardwood under the cabinets. It is a waste of big dollars. Do the floor first then when the cabinets get pulled later put down 3/4" plywood to level up with the hardwood. For the posts if they can be removed, cut off either the top or bottom, whichever is least noticeable. If the post is wood you can also use an oscillating tool to cut the bottom off without removing it. Might be hard to get a really clean cut with that though.
     
  4. SledgeHammer

    SledgeHammer Icon

    3,556
    564
    Dec 28, 2007
    Wouldn't you still have a gap between the hardwood and the cabinets? The plywood would just solve the level issue. Unless you upsize the new cabinets by like a 1/8" of an inch of something :).
     
  5. WestDC

    WestDC Well-Known Member DBSTalk Club

    3,808
    494
    Feb 9, 2008
    Your best bet to use would be Laminate Wood Flooring --go right over What you have NOW and it won't look "AS" Sunken at all --Go look at all the "NEW" Laminate's that look like tile or Hardwood and water proof. you only need to pull out the Fridge and lay in under the fridge only --no need to remove fixed cabinets. Just my suggestion.

    We removed Hardwood in our kitchen and put tile in it's place --At that time we replaced all cabinets (upgrade) and counter tops and all Appliances --they did not tile under the cabinets only the fridge --quarter round the cabinets and thresholds where needed. did it in 2018 $30K
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2021
    b4pjoe likes this.
  6. b4pjoe

    b4pjoe New Member

    1,874
    560
    Nov 19, 2010
    Not if the person putting in the hardwood is good at it.
     
    Brad_73 and SledgeHammer like this.
  7. SledgeHammer

    SledgeHammer Icon

    3,556
    564
    Dec 28, 2007
    Lol...

    Yeah, there's a lot of minor details you need to get right with hardwood because its so thick when it comes to transitions, meeting obstacles, etc. When I bought my house, it had linoleum in the upstairs baths, when I replaced with tile, I didn't keep a close eye on the installers and they just put the 1/4" plywood on top of the linoleum which had an underlayment under that. I could definitely feel like I was "stepping up" when I went into the bathroom and the chinsy baseboard that was there was never adjusted, so I literally had like 1" baseboards lol. They later redid all the tile because the sealer failed, and I made they remove the sandwich they had built up in the upstairs bathrooms. The baseboards still aren't right (although better), but I'm not feeling the "step up". Definitely won't be putting the tile I have now in a new house. That material (tumbled travertine) is banned for life.
     
  8. SledgeHammer

    SledgeHammer Icon

    3,556
    564
    Dec 28, 2007
    LL has the 3/4" hardwood @ $7.49/sqft vs the 1/2" engineered @ $5.49. So on a 2000sqft project, you'd only be saving $4k on the material, but you wouldn't be able to refinish the engineered to the same extent. Glamour Flooring has the engineered @ $4.19, so I'd save $6600 vs. the LL hardwood. I don't think they have it in hardwood.

    Definitely wouldn't do the tile that looks like wood. You can tell its tile.

    Yeah, typically you floor under the fridge and if you have a standalone stove. No flooring under the dishwasher.
     
    WestDC likes this.

Share This Page

spam firewall

Advertisements